silviaz
-
Posts
435 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by silviaz
-
-
12 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Yeah, but decent stuff, not that mystery stuff. Like AEM, or the ones done by Haltech, Link, etc.
Ah right.
-
@Dose Pipe Sutututu with the wideband, are you referring to something mainly like this? https://www.justraceparts.com.au/oxygen-sensors/wideband-gauge-kits
-
31 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:
Also you're fixated on the terminology here.
"Very rich" isn't a measurement. Very rich relative to what? It makes perfect sense for a tuner to say "On boost, you need to run very rich" if the Tuner is comparing "very rich" relative to Stoich, and they'd be accurate. 11.5 is very rich relative to 14.7.
Because anyone here knows that 14.7 on boost is not possible, terms like "Rich" and "Very Rich" and "Very Lean" and "Lean" typically revolve around/on top of the assumption that we're all running richer than stoich (14.7/lambda 1.0) to run any boost at all.
If you're talking boost, 13.5 on boost is very lean, but it's still richer than stoich. 10.0 is Very Rich, and Very Rich relative to stoich.
These terms are very stupid when not defined. Get the numbers, and I suspect this guy giving "bad advice" is actually giving reasonable advice, but you're fixated on words and definitions and stuff instead of getting the actual data. I reckon old mate is probably tuning to 11.8 or something on boost and all is well.
As dose said, fouling plugs is usually a symptom of too much fuel OFF heavy load. How would you know for sure? GET A WIDEBAND. It's near impossible for a tuner to properly dial in off-fuel loads while using a dyno. They get it roughly in the ballpark with an assumption that a guy with a tuned perfomance car will change their plugs every 5000km anyway, so the distinction between plugs fouling at 7000km instead of 10,000km is not a concern.Ah right I think I get what you mean, cheers for the info. As mentioned yeah I'll bring up the wideband o2 sensor with my tuner and give an update from there.
-
59 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
You'll find motors that foul plugs quickly aren't because of running rich on boost but rather the rest of the MAP (vacuum to atmospheric) is garbage and/or the O2 feedback strategy is either disabled or is utter horse shit.
If you're not cruising and idling at stoich, but rather rich, you'll be going through spark plugs faster.
Ah right, interesting to know. I'll bring up the 02 wideband sensor up with my tuner as well.
-
3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Foul. Not fail. Different things.
Ah yep, foul I meant my bad.
-
5 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
He's dumb.
The exact mixture you need to run will depend on the specific motor (some will need more fuel than others, because some are knock resistant and others like to knock), the fuel (if you were planning to run on 91 you would inevitably end up with lower lambdas than if you were planning to run on 100), the boost target, the state of modification of the engine (ie, has it got higher or lower compression than it did stock, has it got big cams causing you to bleed off effective compression outside of the cam's efficiency peak, etc etc???) and a number of other things. Having said that, for a given combination of the above it might be very sensible to be aiming for say, 11.5:1 in the middle of the torque peak. That is pretty rich, but not "very rich". Very rich is (obviously) richer than that. Stock Nissan ECUs liked to push the mixtures down to ~10:1 when they got run out of their comfort zone. That's defo black smoke territory, but still not smokescreen territory.
TLDR: he's dumb. The motor will be given what the motor wants, and that is not always "very rich".
Last question I had, can a super rich condition cause spark plugs to fail early? Say for example my mechanic says to change them every 10k but they fail at the 7k mark. From research I've done it seems to be the case, but then I assume it would depending on how much the car is overfueling?
-
Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Dead stock tune, if you slap a wideband O2 on them, you'll see it hits high 10s.
Black smoke is fine, keeps things cool.
Ah right, now wondering whether I should waste money to get it tuned at all, probably a good idea I guess considering I don't have tuning papers from the last owner.
-
35 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
ever seen a stock Evo with a 4G63T and just a high flow cat & cat back on boost? It's a smoke screen!
Evo's now that you mention it do tend to stink I've noticed lol but don't remember smoke. Is that taking into account a properly tuned aftermarket ecu?
-
22 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
He's dumb.
The exact mixture you need to run will depend on the specific motor (some will need more fuel than others, because some are knock resistant and others like to knock), the fuel (if you were planning to run on 91 you would inevitably end up with lower lambdas than if you were planning to run on 100), the boost target, the state of modification of the engine (ie, has it got higher or lower compression than it did stock, has it got big cams causing you to bleed off effective compression outside of the cam's efficiency peak, etc etc???) and a number of other things. Having said that, for a given combination of the above it might be very sensible to be aiming for say, 11.5:1 in the middle of the torque peak. That is pretty rich, but not "very rich". Very rich is (obviously) richer than that. Stock Nissan ECUs liked to push the mixtures down to ~10:1 when they got run out of their comfort zone. That's defo black smoke territory, but still not smokescreen territory.
TLDR: he's dumb. The motor will be given what the motor wants, and that is not always "very rich".
Yeah, I think I keep getting bad advice. I'll get a tune from a reputable place (from the place that they said black smoke on acceleration is not normal and hopefully it's fixed.) That one place I went to initially told me that they do run the car slightly on the rich side for safety.
-
1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:
But a Skyline is not a OEM hardware flash tune. Skyline mods pretty much START at Stage .. 8 or something like that.
To "fix up" a tune you have to first familiarize yourself with WTF is going on. Any tuner will realistically have a look and see if the baseline actually makes sense. If it does, then yes of course they will use that as a base and spend time tweaking and modifying it. If it's way too far from what they are used to they will start from scratch, but treating the current tune like a baseline is as good a place as any to start as long as it makes sense to do so.
However it is a CYA technique. They do not expect that the tune to be 30 seconds of work away from being perfect, and they have a paying customer with a complaint that they very much want to resolve. To do that properly they quote high and will go over everything to make the thing work as well as possible.
It would be crazy for them to assume that they can make a fast tweak to fix a tune made by someone else on a car they don't know. It could also not be a software problem as well.That makes sense.
-
12 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Oh you sweet summer child. It might be easier to look at this from the Euro scene, in this case a Golf Gti. A super quick google...
https://www.mountune.com.au/products/m52-golf-gti-stage-1-power-upgrade-mk7-5-only
$1,175 for a "stage 1" tune.
https://www.vagparts.com.au/products/volkswagen-golf-gti-mk7-tuning
Oh it's on sale! $800 for a "stage 1" tune.
So, in these instances the car never sees the dyno, no mechanic ever sees the car, no tuner touches the car. You hand over a large sum of money and you get a copy paste flash tune uploaded to your ecu.
So much of the tuning industry is like this.
Why would a tuner, turn down the opportunity to extract a minimum of $1,000 from you? It's an easier pill to swallow for the average customer when they sell it as a "full tune". Oh I'm sure they'll happily bill you for more if you want something special done on top, but the price of admission will always be for a "full tune".
I really hate to be so cynical about this but it's reality. The obvious solution is to tune the car yourself.
Ah, I thought as much lol. Me tuning the car myself would be a disaster, I'll just pay the 1k+ 🤣
-
My mechanic said that black smoke on boost is completely normal even with aftermarket ecu and tune, is this right? Sounds way off to be. Sure it's common because people don't tune their cars but from my understanding if you're popping flames or blowing a lot of black smoke, you're running way to rich? He was saying actually that you want to run very rich when boosting. Though a tuner told me you shouldn't have black smoke on acceleration only on deceleration. My spark plugs only last a few thousand km I noticed before my car started running rough, but now runs fine when putting new plugs in.
Most cars that I've seen boost hard have never had black smoke on acceleration.
-
1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Why? They will still charge you for a full tune.
Really even though they save a ton of time with the copy paste it's still the same price as a full tune? I thought it was a time thing where the more time they spend the more money they charge, now if the adjustments take the same amount of time then that makes sense to me, or am I missing something?
-
7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Yes, here's a scenario.
Say your original tune by Tuner A has been done, with the wrong injector data, wrong sensor scaling, base timing not synced properly. Tuner B then hops on, fixes up the cock ups and now realises the fuel table & timing tables are pretty much invalid.
Easier for them to copy and paste a known working tune from a similar car they've done in the past with similar mods, then tune/calibrate accordingly
Yep that makes a lot of sense, actually I was reading reviews a few minutes ago of this exact same scenario that you mentioned. Now, I wonder if they will do a copy and paste tune, doubt it lol. Less money that way for them.
-
On 9/24/2018 at 8:23 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I wouldn't get a retune to "fix" it running rich. Blow $1200 for no reason to be honest.
Also it may be tuned rich for a reason, generally with thise high flow turbos, the rear housings are small (because they're OEM) and you often have heaps of exhaust back pressure as you can Only get so much air out versus in due to the upgraded compressor wheels.
Now if you were to have a ruler flat instagrammable AFR reading you might find your car will knock or have sky high EGTs due to the low timing. So to combat this, tuners or mechanics turned tuners dump in heaps of fuel to combat knock.
Anyhow if you feel like getting it "re-tuned" I suggest you reset the PowerFC so they at least have to copy and paste another tune on and touch it up.
I'd love to do a fix up but a tuner I went to says he doesn't do that, and it's easier just to do it from scratch because if they fix one parameter it could negatively impact another. I was trying to avoid spending $1k+, is this common with tuners?
-
15 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Probably telling you to get BKR6ES
Easier to get BCPR6ES or 7 is you're making moderate power.
Been using them for years in my own car, other people's cars.
I might be wrong, however those cars work well and have no issues. As a matter of fact, a S15 I helped build and tune did a 1m46s at SMSP last night on sticky street tyres.
I just realised my build had the 7s so will be putting those. Cheers man
-
On 4/13/2016 at 1:25 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
BCPR6ES call it a day at $3.95 each
I went to go search it up on Repco and autobarn and shows it's not compatible for my car, that's odd. Faulty search function?
-
9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Well, splitfires are no different to a new stock coil, and stock boost is ~ 10 psi.....so 1.1mm is the likely best plug gap. Go ahead and use 0.9mm. It's not going to change the world.
I thought r34 gtt's run stock boost 5-7 psi?
-
25 minutes ago, PranK said:
I have been religiously anti the cheap Chinese tyre brands. I like good middle-teir tyres and I like knowing I have decent rubber.
I bought a set of wheels that came with Black Diamond tyres. They were noisy but not terrible with grip. When it came time to replace them I did some reading and watched a bit of YouTube about cheap Chinese rubber and if it is actually terrible. So, I went against my better judgement, listened to a few reviews and bought a pair of Sailun tyres for the rear of the 335i. Two tyres, fitted for a twenty less than a single front-matched Kumho!
And let me tell you.... They're f**king horrible. They are so noisy even at low speeds and even moderate take offs from the lights cause TCS flashing. And these were the GOOD cheap Chinese tyres.
What is your opinion or experiences with Chinese tyres?
Nope, I had some ones called "road claw" on a car with no traction control (luckily I never drove it in the rain) because I don't think that would have ended well lol. Tyres I think is one of those things to not cheap out on. I've heard stories of people using cheap Chinese tyres and almost totalling their car, just not worth the risk.
-
On 1/4/2012 at 12:13 PM, GTSBoy said:
The reason to use coppers over iridiums has more to do with a lot of people having trouble with the iridiums.
At 8 - 10 psi boost with the standard turbo you should have no reason to gap your plugs down to 0.8mm, especially seeing as you have some nice strong coils in there. So buy or leave the plugs gapped at 1.1mm. The wider the plug gap the better, unless it is misbehaving (missing, breaking down at high boost, etc), in which case then you gap them down. But the same rule applies - the bigger the gap the better, so don't automatically gap anything down to 0.8 before trying 1.0, then 0.9.
The BCPR6ES come gapped at 0.9mm, and I have spitfires and is lightly modified. I assume there's no need to modify that gap as per what you wrote above? Mine's also maxes out at 10 psi.
-
15 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Nah, to remove excess high fill, 240 or 320 probably. 800 will take ages, clog and be a bitch. You don't care if you scratch the primer at these stages anyway, because there's more going back on over the top. You will soon see/feel/learn what grit to finish on, but I'd be willing to bet you never go finer than 400 for a bloody primer!
Ah ok cheers. Oh yeah I forgot that apprently if you go too high on the sand paper number that if the primer is too smooth, the paint won't stick to it. From memory, panel beaters go up to 400 only on the last sand.
-
28 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:
That's the kicker for me anyway, wrinkle paint on interior pieces seems weird. You could probably re-texture it by pressing something in there, but at some point you could get the whole thing flocked or lined with cloth or some other option.
Sadly the scratches on mine are really pretty severe. They happen when people take the head unit out. The head unit/center carrier 'thing' has some wild edges on it that just mutilate the plastic when people are in the process of taking it out/removing plugs and twisting it this way and that to disconnect it all, or reconnect it all.That makes sense, weird, I've taken my head unit out several times and have never scratched that part.
-
36 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
How f**king "deep" can scratches in interior trim actually be?
Spray the primer on, sand it down. Spray some more on. Rinse, repeat. It'll be fine. If you're happy with a smooth finish, anyway. You might have to learn how to spray topcoat for a lumpy finish if you want something like original texture.
Alright I'll give it a go. Ideally I want a textured look, but I'll spray one panel and see how it looks, if it looks like shit, I'll look into topcoat. When you say sand after the primer, do you think 800 grit would be good enough as it will sand down any imperfections fast enough without scratching the primer?
-
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
Ignoring the loss of texture, use high fill primer instead of filler. Sprays on like paint. Is paint.
High fill primer to fill in deep scratches? Won't I need a f**k ton of primer for that as high filler is meant for once the filler has already been put in?
r34 GTT Excessive fuel consumption on stock Rb25det neo
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
600km?! That's amazing lol, was that turbo or non turbo? I'd be lucky to get 400km on a tank lol (though that's mods for you i guess lol)