silviaz
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Posts posted by silviaz
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On 5/19/2020 at 9:35 AM, GTSBoy said:
What Duncan said.
The diff casing is a heavy casting. I'm not sure why anyone would think it might crack. Just place the jack bowl evenly under the bottom rib.
Don't put chassis stands under the front crossmember. It is not strong enough to take the point loads from the tops of chassis stands. The best way is put the chassis stands under the lower inner pivot points. You may have to grind the heads of the chassis stands to make them narrow enough to fit. And if you have to remove the lower arm, you will have to find an alternative support point. You can make a buffer to go between a chassis stand and the proper jacking point under the sill and support there. Don't use the chassis stand bare under the sill as you can still damage them, even if they are strong enough to carry the car.
Hey mate, what are those pivot points that you are referring to? I can't find anything about it on the net, you got any photos? Need to know so when I put jack stands on the front and rear of my r34.
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17 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
The sheave is the V part of the pulley that makes contact with the belt face.
Nope, R32 with R34 motor. And no, there should be no fore-aft adjustment possible, otherwise everyone would f**k it up.
This is probably you rapidly changing the engine revs with the clutch, which then causes the fan belt to slip hard for an instant. If it is not, then the noise is in the clutch and that's probably real bad.
Ah ok. yeah it was rapidly changing revs with the clutch I think. Only happens for an instant.
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1 hour ago, silviaz said:
From memory you have an r33? Are you able to adjust the position of the alternator using the 3 bolts on it to change the alignment of the pulley between the alternator and water pump?
I forgot to mention if I'm operating the clutch in a weird way (like messing up the foot movement) I can hear the squeal
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4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
On plain V belts I used to take the belt off and use a little 200 grit paper on the sheaves. Deglaze them. It's a bit harder on poly V belts, but still doable.
From memory you have an r33? Are you able to adjust the position of the alternator using the 3 bolts on it to change the alignment of the pulley between the alternator and water pump?
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2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
On plain V belts I used to take the belt off and use a little 200 grit paper on the sheaves. Deglaze them. It's a bit harder on poly V belts, but still doable.
Hmm, never heard of that but guess I could give them a go, seems like people say whatever you put on the belt it will ruin it, like soap, wd-40, grease, etc. When you say "sheaves" are you referring to the groove part of the belt? I wonder if it's worth getting new belts entirely.
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So for my r34 I had my mechanic change my fan belts and the old ones that I had (only had it for a short time) never squealed on startup, ever since I put new ones on they would squeal when it's cold and if I started the car when it's warm outside then it wouldn't sequel. I ended up taking my car back 3 times to have the fan belt adjusted and I checked the tension myself and seems correct. Goes to 90 degrees and can't go much further. I also had a new water pump installed.
Do note that, when my belt got adjusted the third time, it only squealed for half a second and went away and that was fine, but now it's back in full swing going for at least 5-10 seconds then goes away. I sprayed a bit of water on it and I think it was still sounding. Sounds like it's definitely coming from the alternator belt, but all 3 have been changed.
Is it possible to change the alignment on the alternator? ( don't know if it's just me or if it looks a little off From what I can tell it's just in one set position. I'm really tempted to get some SCA anti sequel spray from supercheap to shut it up for a while. I just don't want to keep revisiting my mechanic with the same problem.
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1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:
Pilot Sport 5's is a really solid road tyre. They get a bit overdone for hardcore track work, but given where this thread started it's definitely gone in the right direction!!
Yup, it's nice to be able to press on the gas and not almost spin out every time lol.
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7 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Which ones? (there are a few types of pilot sport tyres lol)
Ah sorry, sport 5's
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4 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:
which ones?
Michelin Pilot sports.
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I got new tyres and from what I can tell so far day and night difference!
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2 hours ago, Predator1 said:
Wait, you drive yours in the rain?!
Not intentionally, but it has rained during the day and I had to drive back home and it has been pissing down a few times. The amount of times my back end started kicking out just from taking off from a traffic light is a bit scary lol.
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Thanks all for the good info.
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8 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Lots of good comments in this thread, I'll just throw this bit on top.
With semi's in the rain, there are a few things to think about -
* Getting temperature into the tyres is really important for making semi's hook up. Driving in the rain on a cold winter night will be very different to driving in the rain on a hot summers day.
* Semi's wear fast, tread depth has a big impact on how well they will hook up in the wet. Semi's don't have sipes so they need all the tread depth they can get to help evacuate the water.
* Not all semi's will work in the rain, regardless of temp/tread depth. Think Ventus Z214 vs Nankang NS2R. If you want to use them in the rain, I'd want to get some real world examples of them working in the wet first.
I've used Nankang NS2R 120TW year round in wet/dry conditions, in the rain on a hot summers day up here in QLD, it's a fantastic tyre. The best tyre I've driven on in the rain. I could actually put power down which amazed me.
On a cold day in the wet, they couldn't get enough temp into them to become optimal, however I wouldn't say they were dangerous. Think closer to a shitty street tyre rather then death trap lol.
I'd also say go with the advice above, get a set of good street tyres, something around Michelin Pilot Sport 4S quality level. Once you start making more power, you could consider going to semi's if you think the cost/performance ratio makes sense.
Yep that's the one I'm thinking of getting, cheers mate! Great info there.
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Looks like I'll be upgrading to some proper street tyres, Yokohama or Michelin, cheers guys!
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17 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
For anything more than 50% of stock power, yes.
Ah ok makes sense, cheers.
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1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Get a proper diff too.
I've heard good things about LSD's but are they are must in your view?
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1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:
Not a semi slick, they are a long life drift tyre. Marketing hype.
Japanese drift tyre company.
The above listed are quality Semi Slicks and are great in wet weather.Great in wet weather you mean for sliding or as in grip well in wet weather?
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2 hours ago, The Bogan said:
They are not semi-slicks, they seem to be a cheap long life tyre with some marketing
They have a 380 tread wear rating
The RS4"s on my SS have a 200 tread wear and are OK in the wet if you don't drive like a pork chop
If they are that bad in the wet I would bin them
I cannot see them actually being really good in the dry with that high of a tread wear rating, the RE003's on my Yaris would probably be better than them with a tread wear of 220
Ah ok, not sure why they say semi slicks on the website, the tread pattern looks like it? But yeah even if I give it a bit too much gas (which is not much) the back end will slide. I have to very carefully work my way up to speed.
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2 hours ago, The Bogan said:
What tyres are you calling semi slicks?
Semis on front and back, or just back?
In saying that, you need to drive to the conditions, be gentle on the throttle
Have another set of rims with "good" all seasons grippy tyres on them for inclement weather or when your just cruising around
Think about the people that you may crash into and possibly injure, or kill, if you "spin out" driving on a public road in the wet, also thinl about how effective your braking is on a wet road with semi slicks, this is why I don't run motorsport type tyres when it's wet on public roads, the risk is to high
It's all 4 tyres, they are these type tyres https://valinotyres.com.au/products/greeva-08d - so from what I've gathered you recommend I change tyres to get tyres with a regular tread pattern?
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Hey all, I noticed on my car in the rain when I drive and if I give it a little bit of acceleration, the back end will start to kick out. Makes it dangerous as I can't merge onto an intersection safely, and if I give it too much gas my car will probably spin out. I know being rear wheel drive does affect things but was wondering how much of a difference semi slicks make compared to regular tyres? The research I did was mixed, saying semi slicks are more for drifting but the rep for the company said they can be used for both. I've also had a wheel alignment recently, and my tyres are near new.
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1 hour ago, r32-25t said:
No it’s not that easy, you need to completely strip the box in order to get the input shaft out and press the bearing off it and press the new one on
Ah ok, that's what I wanted to know. Thanks!
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2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Well, replacing a front bearing is not a "rebuild", nor does it trigger a need to rebuild everything in the gearbox. A dismantled gearbox with worn/aged parts can be put back together just fine. The only argument is whether the labour to do so is then considered to be wasted compared to doing a rebuild as well.
Yeah that's what I thought, I thought if all he has to do is take off the input shaft cover and replace the bearing behind it, that sounds like a pretty easy job but I'm not 100% sure as I haven't been able to find much information on the process.
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3 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
Weird to me how the mechanic didn't offer to just tear into it further at that point but that's just how it rolls with a lot of mechanics. They'd rather get the cashflow sooner than later.
Nah this mechanic is honest and for him he has a more "leave it if it's working" approach. Not always ideal because if for example I didn't replace my rear main seal and it leaked then I'd have to pay him again to pull out the box.
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11 hours ago, admS15 said:
I don't think you can blame the mechanic. He replaced what he thought and what is a common source of gearbox noise. It could be internal gearbox bearings that are causing your noise. Would have been an even bigger Bill. These boxes are a little noisy at low revs high load. I had a brand new one in mine before I broke it and it also had noise at low rpm.
I'd just put up with the noise and don't load it up at low rpm. Gearboxe is trying to tell you it doesn't like it.
Yeah, problem is would have been better to do it all at once but now I have to pay to pull out the gearbox again.
R34 jacking point
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Ah ok thanks man, I'll take a look at the lower control arm and see where that point is. Hopefully don't find place it on the wrong thing haha.