silviaz
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Posts posted by silviaz
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4 hours ago, The Bogan said:
Looks like I'll need both green and blue. Green and blue are mandatory.
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8 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
I thought so.
If I could see the car in person this would be a lot more simple, as I can't let me tell you a story.
This is the scenario. You have a lovely S15 silvia, looks amazing, pretty typical mods, exhaust, front mount. But the workshop that installed your front mount thought nothing of cutting a bunch of holes in the body to run the intercooler piping. You don't know anything about the engineering process and really, don't know what the workshop did to install the front mount.
The next day you are frolicking through the fields in your S15, playing with the other woodland creatures when out of no where a wild highway patrol monster appears.
You are stopped for a random defect check. Oh I mean, random breath test, and the highway patrol monster finds some holes cut in the cars body. Your car is defected and written on the defect is something to the effect of, "holes cut in structural component of vehicle chassis".
No big deal you think, a workshop did the modification, surely the way they did it is fine. You start speaking with blue slip workshops and engineers.
Turns out that your car has air bags and other sensors that are tuned to the factory chassis and the way it responds in a collision and now the chassis has been modified/weakened. Now all the engineers you speak with don't want to touch the car with a 10 foot pole, it just isn't worth their time/they don't want to risk losing their engineering licence.
So now the beautiful S15 is unregistered. What are you to do?
It gets sold to someone interstate who thinks they can easily get around the defect situation. I mean the defect is in another state right? Wrong. The car stays unregistered.
And now the car is sold to the next person and the cycle continues.
Maybe this story isn't relevant to your situation. I haven't seen the car. It's something to think about in any case.
9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:If it is registered in another state, then it is not unregistered.
There is almost certainly some pain in the arse here though. I think you will struggle to deregister it in the other state, so I suspect that you are saying that you will be buying it unregistered because the owner will be deregistering it before selling it to you. Yes? If so, then your plan is basically ccorrect. But again, I suspect that there is more arse pain to be had here. If you were doing this into SA, for example, you would have to take the car to Regency for an identity inspection, then also possibly a tech inspection (which, in NSW at least is nominally one of your rainbow slips and can be done at Habib's around the corner), and then you can get plates for it.
So I think you need to just call Services NSW and ask them, or look at their website. I'm damn sure that one of their business items is to tell people how to do this.
I just called Service NSW and they said, they take interstate plates and de rego the car, which sounded odd.
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3 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Is the car modified?
Hey, just updated it sorry somehow missed that part. yes it is.
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3 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:
A bit of a different question: how would your situation look like if you had another $10k in your budget? Please correct me if I'm wrong but it looks to me like you are dead set on buying a Silvia but you don't quite have the funds for it. So you keep coming across these potentially questionable car sales. Last one was an alluringly cheap import from Japan. This time it's a questionable rego situation.
Maybe going against the grain here, but I would propose to wait a bit longer, save more funds and buy a car without the hassle.
Personally I stay clear of ads along the lines of:
- The car doesn't run, but all it needs is <insert cheap thing to fix>
- The car isn't registered, but all it needs is <insert cheap thing to fix>
If it is not a big deal, why haven't people done it before? I'm also mechanically inept so maybe it's not an issue for you.
I think the Service NSW section on buying a car is pretty good overall. Personally it made me think twice about whether I wanted to buy a modified import from interstate. I ended up buying in NSW instead.
https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/guide/buying-vehicle#registering-your-vehicle
Just as an aside, the first thing on Service NSW website about interstate registrations is this.
https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/transfer-or-register-an-interstate-vehicle
It's a bit of a different situation now, funds are good. Looking local now, I'm getting the car inspected and it just seems the seller is the complication now. The car is in NSW but registered in another state.
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42 minutes ago, Duncan said:
I've never done an interstate buy, but to add to checking for defects like murray said, also make sure it is not on the stat write off register.
The main check is the blue slip, the shop does the identity check on the car at that point (checks engine number and chassis number(s) with RTA), and they also have to be happy to say any mods are safe (which most shops would not without an engineer taking responsibility for it)
PPSR is all clear.
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7 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:
I have a few questions.
Is the car modified or defected (or defected in another state)?
What do you mean blue slip is provided by the seller? You either need a pink slip or a blue slip, the one you need will depend on your circumstances. It doesn't have anything to do with the seller.
With the details you've provided, I'm guessing it will be closer to the following -
Step 1 - Get an unregistered vehicle permit from Services NSW
Step 2 - Drive the car from the seller to my house and keep it stored
Step 3 - Take your modified car to a blue slip workshop. Get laughed at. Drive home.
Step 4 - Restore the car to stock or near stock. Return to the blue slip workshop and get it signed off.
Step 5 - Pay for your green slip.
Step 6 - Head to SERVICES NSW. Do paperwork. Get plates.
Step 7 - Do a skid. Post vids.
So the seller said he provide the blueslip before the sale. In terms of defect how do I know if it's defected, is it PPSR? I don't know if it is. yes the car has some modifications.
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Just now, GTSBoy said:
If it is registered in another state, then it is not unregistered.
There is almost certainly some pain in the arse here though. I think you will struggle to deregister it in the other state, so I suspect that you are saying that you will be buying it unregistered because the owner will be deregistering it before selling it to you. Yes? If so, then your plan is basically ccorrect. But again, I suspect that there is more arse pain to be had here. If you were doing this into SA, for example, you would have to take the car to Regency for an identity inspection, then also possibly a tech inspection (which, in NSW at least is nominally one of your rainbow slips and can be done at Habib's around the corner), and then you can get plates for it.
So I think you need to just call Services NSW and ask them, or look at their website. I'm damn sure that one of their business items is to tell people how to do this.
I hope so, yeah that seems like a huge issue. I don't think they will de register it, they bought it sometime ago and I assume with QLD rego.
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Hi all, I'm going to be buying a car soon (never bought one unregoed, it's in nsw but is regoed in another state) so was looking for some advice on the process. Here is what I was going to do (I already got a quote for insurance and will activate it once the car is bought):
Step 1 - Get an unregistered vehicle permit from Services NSW
Step 2 - Drive the car from the seller to my house and keep it stored
Step 3 - Get green slip online (blue slip should already be provided by seller)
Step 4 - Get a pink slip (or don't need this as I'm getting a blue slip?)
Step 5 - Head to SERVICES NSW to lodge notice of disposal and get plates for car ( should I do this earlier? As I understand I first need greenslip before I can get rego)
Step 6 - All done now, and will do a service
Is there anything I missed or got wrong?
I also just heard that apparently compliance for imports isn't universal for all states? This sounds like a major concern.
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3 hours ago, funkymonkey said:
Yeah the oxidation is usually a result of a car driving through and sitting in salted roads. Which is common in Japanese high country. Super high chance if the chlorine oxide has formed that the iron/steel parts are rotted too. Get a thorough underbody check done and look out for tell tale cover up spray paint too.
Makes sense. Yeah will defs get a check, seems to be priced quite a bit less compared to others.
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4 hours ago, Duncan said:
yeah so to clarify; oxidisation on aluminium is a potential indicator of meaningful rust elsewhere, but on its own is not an issue
ah ok, thanks. That makes sense. Appreciate the info as always.
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2 hours ago, Duncan said:
Sorry mate, my old eyes need a better pic. Oxidation on aluminium is not an issue in itself.
ah ok @joshuaho96 said that the oxidation on the intake and stuff generally means rust in other areas.
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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
Yes, so that's definitely the diff cover and they will all inevitably have white oxidation on them after a few years. There can be no expectation of raw cast alloy retaining any sort of nice as cast finish on an exposed part anywhere on a car.
The question is ....is it just the usual light coating of white oxide, or is it horribly consumed and covered in little encrustations of chlorides? If the former, then the oxidation state of the alloy parts is not really any guide to how rusty the steel parts might be. But if it is horribly messed up, then the car might have spent a lot of time driving through wet slushy snow and salt, and it might have corrosion issues. The only way to know if to have a decent look.
R33s and 34s in particular have a lot of problems around the front suspension towers. R32s less so there, but they can all suffer all over the place from salt. They should have all been rescued from Japan within 5 years of being built. Anything coming out of Japan now would want to have been stored in a garage or warehouse for the last 15 years.
Ah ok makes sense, will cost be a fair bit to inspect so hopefully turns out right.
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1 hour ago, Duncan said:
The pic isn't great, but I think it is the exhaust heat shield with surface rust. That is perfectly normal, it is not painted because it is too close to the exhaust for paint to survive
I meant this part not the exhaust shield.
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31 minutes ago, funkymonkey said:
it's not technically rust, but it will deteriorate the shield over time. the chloride pits the metal over time. if it gets too manky you can just replace it. you can't paint it cos it gets too hot.
Oh I was referring to the white metal thing at the back looks like the differential.
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5 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
CarVX is the nearest equivalent to Carfax in the US. White rust on aluminum parts like an intake manifold usually also means there is rust elsewhere on the chassis.
Thanks man, I'll use that. This is the oxidation I was mentioning, is that technically rust? Seems like there is some yellow bubbling to.
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I'm going to be buying a JDM from Japan soon and found a potential importer but I noticed on a lot of these JDM cars on the intake manifold and differential there is salt oxidation, which I understand cars over seem to be more prone to rusting than here. Is salt oxidation something to worry about if it's on the frame of the vehicle or is just general rust I should look out for?
Also I heard in Japan they don't have something like we do have here for PPSR or Carfax from America, but a guy told me they do they do have it, what's the best website to do the check if it exists?
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I called up. Turns out it has finance lol. Whole thing seems dodgy, now gotta wait until it clears from ppsr.
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6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Well that depends on whether the encumbrance is still current or if it's just a zombie. You need to contact the holder of the encumbrance to find out if they actually do still hold it.
These registers are not always going to be 100% accurate. They serve to prevent as many surprises as possible. Here you have a potential surprise. Investigate.
It's showing this:
I'll give a call to the company next week and if there's no finance get it all in writing.
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I went to inspect a car and it had finance, now it shows finance from a few years ago and the owner said that it has no finance and he never received an letter or anything. But it shows the registration of the person who had the security interest which isn't the same as the seller's (and that rego doesn't seem to be active anymore), who now has the finance the old owner or the new one? I know usually it follows the owner but it looked odd to me, and shows the finance ends in a few years.
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33 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Correct, on modern cars you can just use scanners such as Launch X421 or an Autel.
For our older shit boxes, compression tests are an ok way to determine even compression between cylinders, however motor with massive duration cams will read lower compression than say a motor with stock cams. Better to do a leak down test if you want to check engine health.
Ah ok, but isn't even a 1997 car considered a modern car? That's why I was a bit confused.
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I was calling a mechanic about doing a pre inspection for a car and he mentioned that mechanics don't do them anymore and it's not just as simple as pulling out spark plugs on modern cars but instead they do oscilloscope tests instead? I've never heard of this and I haven't found much information on it. Is this true?
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20 hours ago, The Bogan said:
If a car is found to be a "body job", the original owner, or the insurance company that originally paid out the claim, can be granted ownership
Quite a few people have been caught out this way, they spent a ton of coin rebuilding a car, only to have it taken off them when they tried to register it
REVS checks, and inspections of body and engine numbers for originality are a must with everything and anything you purchase
A lot of cars people swap the engines, if it has a blown engine for example. Would the replacement engine be fine as long as there is a reciept?
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22 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:
It is violently hard in NSW and VIC.
If it is on the WOVR, you need the official list of damages that put it into the WOVR, AND an itemized receipt for this work being carried out to make it "OK" again and registerable.
This list must follow every buyer, every time it changes hands, even if the damage that put it on the WOVR, and the subsequent fix happened 10 years and 3 owners ago.
If the seller does not have this information, that you can verify is enough - don't buy the car and the owner will have a very hard time ever selling it.
Yes it's dumb. Once it's fixed, satisfactorily it should be removed from the WOVR. It is after all, a repairable write off.Are you saying getting a repairable writeoff inspected to be able to be road worthy again is hard? I didn't know that extra stuff you said cheers for letting me know, so those extra documents (the list u referred to), I understand you said the list must follow every buyer, is this only for when the car needs a blueslip and I assume it's a legal requirement the way you worded it?
Where can I find that information online that refers to the list needing to follow buyers?
I called RTA and they said as long as the car is not 3 months out of rego I just do regular pinkslips. Only thing here I can think is that the mechanic doing the pink slip will want that list? -
27 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Yeah, see, this made it sound like it was currently a repairable write off (for some new reason) and that it had previously had hail damage repaired.
In reality, it is not a repairable write off. It was, but it is now a repaired write off. What will be important here is to know how severe the hail damage was, and how it was fixed. Some hail damage is so slight that your wife will argue to just leave it (ask me how I know) and some is so bad that you wonder how it can be economically fixed. And the skills of the hail repairers vary, and the tightness of the sphincters of the insurance companies vary, so you can have quality anywhere on the spectrum.
If the repairs were mostly dentless work, and only a little bit needed to be bogged and painted, then it's probably perfectly fine. If the thing was absolutely hammered and they couldn't just rub them out with dentless repair and had to cover the whole thing with bog, then....as long as it is super cheap, then fine. But if there is no record or evidence of what happened to it, then the questions raised need to be offset by low price.
Ah I see, that makes sense. Yeah so car was a repairable writeoff 10 years ago so I guess it's now a "repaired write off" as it has been fixed. The car isn't regoed currently and insurance expired, will this be a problem to re-register it, or is it just a standard blue slip and pink slip since the hail was already fixed? I wonder if some mechanics will be iffy about it, since it will show that it was a repairable writeoff.
Buying an unregoed car
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
What did you mean by engine swap? I think you replied to one of my other threads about repairable writeoffs having different engines numbers, are you saying if it's different to the original one it can cause issues?