silviaz

My bad it looked like i needed to looking at the diagram lol

Ah ok looks like i need to take apart the turbo according to that diagram?

I dont think this car has a blow off valve?

I havent but cant hear any hissing sounds but will try that

So after what the mechanic did it made a world of difference and worked much better. But still sorta got the same issue which is that it stalls when going uphill. also the car idles bad the tachometer moves very slightly up and down here are videos from after what i did to try fix it and seems to be a bit better. The idle also sounds better with the aircon on. Here is what I've done so far to try fix it: * New spark plugs from 2 months ago * Changed oil 2 times (first one for testing and it went black quite fast but now got brand new Penrite 10w-50 I think it is + filter) * Cleaned IACV Valve was quite dirty but don't know how much it is (gasket is broken but used some gasket filler no leaks, might replace gasket later) * Cleaned throttle body was filthy as well but didn't originally fix problem * New radiator coolant * Cleaned pcv valve was dirty to but did rattle before cleaning and don't think it made much difference * Unplugged air flow sensor while car is on and it turned off so that indicates to me the sensor is good Don't know what it could be, don't think it's the coil packs, haven't checked oxygen sensor. What do you guys reckon it is? Maybe pressure plate? Don't think it's the head gasket. I wanna try work on some stuff until he arrives see if I can fix the problem in the mean time. This first one is with air con on the idle sounds better and second one is with aircon off and idle sounds worse 20200114_183151.mp4 20200114_182132.mp4 20200114_182105.mp4 20200114_181846.mp4

Hey mate,thanks. Happy Xmas to you to. Thanks for everything.

Hey I found out what the entire problem of the car was. The idiot who owned the car before me put the boost to maximum. That was legit the only thing that caused the car to stall, turned it down and works like a dream. Wasn't even the broken rocker arm it looked like lol.

Mate I turned it on and she sounds great. Here is a clip. Thanks again for all your help, lots learned on this project. Does have some smoke I think cause the old gasket but getting a mechanic on Monday again to double check everything, and just gotta bleed the valve for the coolant as there is still air bubbles. I drove in reverse and the car didn't turn off! And it seems like the clutch is working better now? I don't hear any crunching, (though I didn't operate the car but I could always here it outside). Anyhow, here it is! (at the 0:22 mark it starts to idle) sil-Copy.mp3

Thanks, will let you know tommorow how it works out. Thanks again for all the help.

Great news!! Got the mechanic he didn't have to take the timing cover off, and did the compression test had 190-210 across all cylinders. Which seems quite high service manual says 156. But cranked it didn't have any usual noises. Tomorrow will be the test to see if it turns on fine.

I did I called a mechanic, and he said it was ok to crank the engine so I did. Just leaving the rest now for the mechanic. They are just busy as hell will be waiting a bit until I get my hands on one. I also read back when you wrote about how I didn't have the marks lined up when I started I see what you mean now. I referred back to the manual and while it did say rotate to tdc I didn't realize the links were supposed to be there as well.

dammit. Maybe jobs like these in the future leave for someone more qualified. I would have thought following the manual would of been enough lol.

Hey man so I've set up everything and I am not touching anything anymore until a mechanic comes I'll get them to do the leakdown test since they will probably have the tool will save me some money. I also called a couple of mechanics and they said about the resistance it can happen cause pressure builds up or like you said because valve touching piston. In this vid on the first time I try to crank it, it's very tight then it's ok then it's right towards the end. This is what you're referring to right? crank.mp4

I see thanks will go from there.

Ok ill put my engine to tdc on the silver links and do it. I assume thats the correct procedure.

I thought you had to turn on the car to do it?

I see i have a can of compressed air. How do i do it with air?

ah fml, so to confirm this should I get an mirror for my endoscope to check if the valves are bent?

Wait what? Are you sure? I heard no noise and I checked with an endoscope the pistons look the same.

Yes they were.

The top tensioner, I understand that's so it doesn't jump up, but not in my case the chain seems to go down so not sure how that makes a difference.

Hey mate, good news i believe. I ended up calling a mechanic he gave me some advice (but he did say he would have to take off the timing cover to ensure everything was 100%), and told me it was safe to crank the engine and that I would get resistance if the piston was to hit the valve. I also managed to get the silver links to line up! I had to turn the crank for a good while lol. Spent over 20 minutes turning and had no problem though it was harder to turn at some points. Currently its not on silver links I wanted to rotate the engine again to ensure that there was no hitting of the valves and such so will need to crank it quite more to get it again. Though I have a concern my timing chain I think is jumping what do you think? Lastly, I think I had a good idea to avoid taking off the timing cover if needed be. I'll get the yellow mark to be up the top and every link after it I will mark it with a number starting from one to see if I have (I think its 48 links inbetween) vid.mp4

Alright. I'll take your advice and get an expert to check it out. Thanks again. I have cranked it a few times already so im curious at what point after cranking will the piston hit the valve. Either way will wait for an expert.

Oh ok, when you say installed wrong does this assume the person who had the car before me installed it it wrong or is it from all the fiddling around I've done? I'm just trying to think where I went wrong, because as I rotate the engine the gold link would have to come up eventually. But it is probably a better idea what you're suggesting. I wanted to take the risk to rotate the engine until I get the marks line up (the silver ones and HOPE the gold one is on the crankshaft. I tried to get my endoscope down there to try and check the gold link when it was done but it kept getting stuck). Is the risk of engine damage huge in terms of the piston hitting the valve?

apologies about that here is a better photo. but something very troubling. I can see the gold link in between the sprockets!