silviaz

Ah fml, I really hope it's not the case haha. I just saw this video , and the leak is pretty much the same area. an

I hope not lol. it was somewhat on the corner, but didn't seem it was near the head gasket. Tomorrow I'm gonna take some coolant out of the resoviour as it's a bit above full and put in the radiator see if I get any bubbles, try to bleed the sytem as ben suggested

From what I understand for coolant I need to put it to the highest point or use the bleeder valve? Will try to find it, was quite difficult to see. I never had bubbles in my cooling system no idea how it developed it.

Hey all, Here it goes again, lol. As some of you might have known from my last post I did lose a tiny bit of coolant every few months, and it's been like that for years (probably since I bought the car) but I noticed last week that I heard water slushing in my dashboard, then noticed I had no heat when I turned it on (but sometimes it would come on), then yesterday out of nowhere the temperature gauge went about half way between operating temperature and the red zone, I noticed before hand that my radiator had no coolant and the hose was cold I'm pretty sure (reservoir was full). Sounds like my heater core, is clogged, but as soon as the aircon produced hot air the temperature went down then back up again because the heating stopped working, so makes me think it's the heater core. But I noticed this morning when I woke up almost all my coolant was gone, went to check the leak underneath and it seemed to be above the thermostat somewhere (didn't seem like the thermostat was leaking or the head gasket but it was above the thermostat area. The car is a 2001 Impreza (no surprise there of coolant issues, haha) Can a clogged heater core cause me to lose that much coolant? Surely it's not the head gasket, there is no bubbles in reservoir, milkshake or anything like that. I opened up the timing cover a bit to see if there was water and if the timing belt was wet but it was all dry as a bone.

I got it changed turned outs the breakpads were gone indeed lol, replaced the boot to.

Ah ok thanks. I'm getting it fixed tomorrow. I hope I haven't left it too long because I changed the right side of the car boot not too long ago I don't think I checked the left.

Ok, I will get it replaced soon just all stores are closed. What is the worst case scenario contamination of break lines?

I see. They were pretty thin, the person I was with might have done a wrong diagnosis. I'll do that first, then do the boots and shit. On the right side of my car the calliper has half its life left, uneven wear not sure why.

Car has been like this for over a year but I ignored it because it wasn't that bad, even now it's now all that bad (at least I think) just sometimes when I break it squeaks, but not all the time. In the morning though it's pretty loud when I break but once I drive the car for a bit then go to break, it goes away, but still happens sometimes. 3 years ago I had the front 2 wheel bearings changed but person I was with in the video reckons it's the wheel bearings. We checked the break pads, they do need to be changed soon but they did have a bit of material left on it, one one side it had about 1-2mm of material left. Also as you can see the in the photos the boot is split, not sure how long that's been like that, I think that's the tierod? Also the green thing seems to have some dried oil around it, not sure if that matters, I did have a leak ages ago but that was fixed. Here is the video, I put the volume up a bit as it was low. But I had someone turn the wheel and every time it was turned you can hear a sound, it's not the same sound as when I break though. The car was put in neutral when I had someone spinning the wheel (car was lifted up with a jack) Do you think the tierod has an effect here? The rotors looked ok as well. 20210402_105611_1.mp4

I changed my knock sensor and haven't seen a code since i've been driving it for years like this it seems, but recently noticed the effects until i changed it lol

Oh really? Is that detonation or something? Will it negatively impact the engine?

It's still my subaru 2001 impreza. I relocated my knock sensor here: No check engine light, though feels like I can hear a bump from the back when breaking, don't know if that's just me lol. Car drives same as before all is fine.

Sorry for the late response, all. I did hear of the helicoil I think I better pay someone to do it lol otherwise i might mess that up to lol.

But what is the answer to my original question? I need to rethread the hole and if I can't do it I need to replace the engine lol because it won't be able to do into its original position.

No idea how this happened possibly cause the bolt was too tough to remove? I wqs able to put the bolt in fine or its owning it geta tighter but with the sensor it just keeps spinning i had to re allocate to another spot on the block. Though some of surface on the sensor itself is hanging off the block doesnr have full contact. The car runs the same though. Can i use this as a permanent solution?

? I called supercheap repco and some others. Also wreckers for 2nd hand

I didnt i called up shops

i saw 20$ ebay ones have a 5 year warranty.

Repco is a rip off 200$ is oem apprently. I'll get one from a wrecker.

i took it to my mechanic i need a new knock sensor, there was a code for a throttle position sensor but apprently its old. Suprisingly nothing for an exygen sensor. I wanted to ask do you think its a bad idea to buy a 20$ one from ebay as opposed to a 95$ from a retailer?

Ah ok makes sense. Cheers

I was curious, not for any car in particular but a general question. If a car is running rich due to a faulty fuel injector for example it would be only one spark plug that would be dry and black correct? But if it's something like a failed oxygen sensor or fuel pressure regulator would all the spark plugs be dry and black?

My fuel filter was replaced 10,000km ago i think.

Ok, thanks for the feedback. 02 could use a replacement lol the light does pop up frequently lol, wires and spark plugs changed not too long ago, I'll see what I can do.

It's an automatic, and it does shift smooth but every day after work it does shift a bit funny on this road I always drive on (just a normal straight road. I might be ovethinking it), when I changed the transmission fluid, the filter barely had any debree inside it like a couple of specs lol, it was also red the fluid so didn't look contaminated. My mechanic was surprised when he opened it, there was no discolouration.