Kapr

@GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case: No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂

Yeah the hybrid you mean one of these? https://youtu.be/kL518ThmzSw?t=118 Yes that one that only vents is that i post above( GReddy FV2) right? That FV2 has some type of screw/valve where you can control how "hard" the spring would...but i think even on the hardest it would not be "good"...i would need to restrict this "more"...i consider this 🙂 And car should be ok(or rather same) with this like with no BoV?

Yeah from what i read this couple of days about BoV i thought so too that atmo BoV would be "worse" in my case. And yes i think/hope that on stock boost it should be ok. I dont want "no BoV" but that is just what i get. Will sort it this out later. I drive it kinda gently even in N/A state so you bet your *ss i will be even more carefull with turbo...and of course still having the old box(but that is getting sorted) I thought that would be good to have at least Nistune. But i dont know what "tune" if any is there. Car(engine from that car) is running stock right now. Yeah for me i think that Nistune should be enough :-) Oh i dont know that. And what outlet you mean? The one that goes to the J-pipe or that "big" one that vents to the atmo? If iam understanding this right you mean that circle one? So i have "booth worlds" like blocked but vented enough? Does this not make car/engine more confused? 😄

Wow guys thank you very much for the HUGE info :-) @GTSBoy I have like 30 minutes if test drive with that car/engine and it not stalled once. IMO it ran very smooth so i guess it was not that bad(but asi i said it is stock) That atmo BoV is worse than no BoV or in my case or it is/will be the same? Cuz frankly i rather have little whooosh sound than that sututu 😄 But either way the less harmfull for engine/turbo the better(if the stock is not an option right away) Yeah about that rebuild i talk with guy who will be doing swap and custom pipes...i think i can get stock BoV or get aftermarket which will function the same. Yeah i looked at that R35 option and i try ask my mechanic more about that if he knows. The engine has stock ECU but i can get Nistune for it. On that stock it runs quite well...but i have limited time with it so rly dont know. Ecumaster is this https://www.ecumaster.com/ It is not some dodgy backyard ECU :-) @MBS206 Yeah but it will be better to have Nistune than the completely stock ECU no? About that "same" atmo/no BoV. The drivebility would be the same? I dont know but i kinda guess that amto BoV would cause more problems than no BoV in my case? Or is the same? You just "change" one sound for the other? Yeah i read many many many topic about hurting the turbo. But no one know anybody that would 100% tell that his turbo/engine blows/get damaged by not running BoV. Of course turbo would be little happier IMO if it has BoV ..but if you do not trash i think i should be good. And as you can see iam already trying to get this right...just working what i have right now :-) Yeah iam kinda the same...i dont want nothing loud and frankly iam not liking that sututu noise that much 😄 i rather have little bit of "whooosh" or no sound at all. Of course in my case it si a completely another world when you came tu Turbo car with open air box and no BoV and you driving the N/A ...all i hear is engine. Here? I heard turbo/sucking and that sututu 😄 @Yeetus So in my case it is really no difference to run no BoV or some atmo BoV like GReddy FV2? The car would drive the same and has "the same" little problems? As i wrote above i kinda thinked that atmo BoV with stock MAF would cause more problems...but then again i dont know much about no BoV either :-) So to avoid stalling i "cant" just put neutral on stop lights like from higher rpm? Or? Yeah iam already looking for ECU :-) Yes iam at the same side with thar R35 MAF :-) @Dose Pipe Sutututu Thank you i (my mechanic/tuner) will look into that) Guess iam taking the Nistune at least :-)

What issues are those? Previous owner said it wants to stall sometimes. We did test drive and it was nice and smooth so it will be sporadic or idk. And if i just change MAF(the sensor to R35 version) it should be better? And as i asked...is it like "plug n play" with oem MAF from R34? This is a MAF from R35 right?

So i just change the (whatever is inside ma original MAF and slide the R34 MAF (it is gonna fit right in? ) and somewhere on the hot side a BoV...i presume that would be vented to the atmo? I just "trying" to understand...maybe my mechanic would know this I would not mind(even prefer) to run stock BoV cuz it is way more than fine but i do not have that and only pipeing what is left is oem J pipe ... I will be running Blitz fmic(to fit oem one side style) and i gonna need custom pipes cuz i do not have rest of those pipes and hoses... But i am want standalone ECU. Only choice i have atm is Nistune...but that is not gonna cut it right?I dont know what Nistune can and cant do... I know you guys know Link and Haltech...but whatabout ECUmaster? I know guys in here run those but i literally do not know about that and do not know differences... Just know to take whatever "my" tuner can work on.

Yeah i know that MAF is no no for this type of BoV. The engine has no BoV and "hose/pipes" ..it was all deleted (or probably it was not even on the engine when it was bought ) It does that "sutututu" noise which i kinda do not want(atmospheric is better IMO...but standalone ECU) What are the cons of running without blow off on stock RB25DET NEO. It running 5-7 PSI max (it has boost controller) EDIT: and can Nistune be "tuned" to know there is no BoV to i dont know "know" and be better for a car? I read so many info about no BoV. One guy saying it is bad and hurting the turbo/engine/car and other that it does not...

Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU?

Yeah so that clutch kit i post above would work and i do not need to worry? 🙂 https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type This one.

Yeah i thought so too...but iam kinda confused what is what and what to get to make it work. I know i need a push clutch(i get that with that kit i post) It has flywheel too and from what i found it should "mate" with RB25DET NEO. But i dont rly know about the bolt count cuz i saw many videos about clutch on RB25DET/NEO and all of them has 6 bolt pattern... Like here for example... And if i google clutch kit for RB25DET NEO like "all of them" has 6 bolt flywheel...

Hi I wrote to the xtreme clutch and they wrote me this: Thanks for contacting us. I already spoke with engineering team and was told that RB25DET with a non-turbo fs5w71c gearbox would not work. It would not hold the horsepower and does not bolt to that engine without some sort of adapter plate or modified bellhousing. I know about the power(it will hold stock power) But i rly dont know about not bolting to the engine without some adaptor?? Is this true? I thought it should mate up without any problems...

I know that smallbox is not great but as i said it will be for a limited time and iam not going to get crazy. But thanks...i just want to know if i can use that clutch and not have "problems"

So it should work in my case? I does not say R34 but it say push(i have push gearbox/clutch right now) No i wont...and i do not drift/race or do anything crazy with car so even a small box should be ok for a couple of months

Hi. I tried to find anything to go be. I found this: https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type Can i use this clutch kit in my case? Engine RB25DET NEO Gearbox "Small box" FS5W71C It is a Push type clutch a and gerabox(slave cyl) THX

Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST? EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok? EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..

Hi. I need a new clutch for my gearbox. It is a factory smallbox behind RB20DE NEO. What options do i have? If iam not mistaken the gearbox should be the same as in R32 GTST and Nissan S14/S15? I found some Xtreme Clutch Stage 1 for S14/S14 (i dont know if you know the brand) (UK) OR...is the clutch same as in the bigbox from RB25DET? Thank you!

Yeah i know(now) I just wanted to ask. It maybe looks like i get my hands on RB25DET NEO for swap 🙂

Ok thanks guys that is what i thought and learned from all the comments/videos too. If i want to BoV i need/want to have standalone ECU 🙂 And the bypass valve tge car has is good for stock(little bit more) power.

Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one: And this is the Turbosmart. THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!

@GTSBoy Yeah i know. The RB20 has 180Nm torque and the gearbox "should" take up to 400Nm if you are not doing stuff like drag/drift or dumping clutch and of course then it is pure "luck" on how will it last. My problem is (i think i said this in different post) that my car was very badly maintain so i would not be suprised if the oil in the gearbox was not changed until i bought it. Yeah the gearbox seem little bit sad. @Sxnjeet the +T seem very interesting but from where iam from it was nearly "impossible" to done right and not blow twice as money as just swap for the RB25.

EDIT: Just a little info what my tranny is "doing" : For the long time the trans do this "bad" sound:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qs_iTXgDt40 It is literally the same sound and same symptoms(when i push the clutch it quites down) So is it really the shaft bearing? Also: i found this on forums: The RB20 and SR20 boxes are nearly indentical inside (rb20 has longer mainshaft)and suffer badly from bearing and selector failures when driven hard The bearing is true and selector failure kinda too...it is "harder" to get into gears specialy when i drive a little bit hard...

Maaaan so many "little" things i rly hope my old RB20 would be "ok" and not too bad. I try to learn what and what not do i need. I look at crossmember at it looks different...even parts numbers are different. Wiring and all that i rly do not know...yeah someone mentioned the speedo thing. On that yoke clip. I rly do not know what can and cant be done "custom" so that is why iam asking to know and not be suprised 🙂 I know what it looks like

Yeah thanks...i thought it would be alot more i dont know 😄 I saw some videos on converting push/pull and it seems you need to "drill" the hole for slave(master) cylinder and buy some converter kit. On that front yoke clip i did not even know that is a thing and i need to source that(custom shops do not do that?) But anyway thank you for the info

Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice

Oh...ok. I know that the smaller one that came with 20/25 N/A NEO can last many km or can blow like in few meters...so i rather have new/spare one 🙂 But that again even if i want to the + T i do not need "crazy" (200Bhp would be fine for me for the start). Thanks for the FB group. Of course i will not be doing the +T myself(i cant do anything on a car but i just gathering info. I think the most "problematic" thing would be to get all the parts...and of course know what exact parts i need 😄