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Unzipped Composites

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Posts posted by Unzipped Composites

    Removing sump

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Yeh generally its much faster and easier to take the engine out. Ive seen it done with the engine in by unbolting the engine mounts and lifting the engine enough to get enough room in, but its bush mechanics 101 and not something a professional mechanic should be putting his limbs at risk with.

     

    Shouldn't be that bad though, engine out is a 2 hour job, 3 hours max. 

    BNR34 1200 HP

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    I mean I'm sure it is technically legal, I'm sure they've found a loophole that allows them to do it. As you say, very public and quite well known. But still, the rules are if it:

     

    1. Has an element of chance (its a random draw, so tick).

    2. Has a prize (obviously tick)

    3. Has a 'consideration', of ANY form. It HAS to be completely free to enter to be considered a legal sweepstakes, and it has to be easy to get the free entry. If it requires a substantial effort to enter for free (ie, a membership) or requires a fee, then it is a lottery. So for me, tick. 

     

    I looked long and hard into how to do something like this to promote my business, and in the end decided it just wasn't worth doing because it is quite difficult to set something up that isn't classed as an illegal lottery.

    R34 Sports Sedan Build

    in Motorsport Builds

    Posted

    It's really taken me years of research to get the knowledge I do have, which realistically is still pretty limited. I'm certainly not knowledgeable enough in aerodynamics to be running courses! I have run composites courses though haha.

     

    I would highly recommend the book 'Competition Car Aerodynamics' by Simon McBeath. Very good intro to aero, presented from the perspective of a hobby race car driver. Honestly I still refer to this book every now and then, its something of a bible for me haha.

     

     

    • Like 1

    R34 Sports Sedan Build

    in Motorsport Builds

    Posted

    4 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

    Good progress, How long until first event?
    Have you thought about making an intake pipe to the turbo from that front air dam pre intercooler, may help with intake temps a little bit

     

    This is very bad for drag and lift. You want to be reducing the frontal opening of the car so they are only just big enough to cool the engine properly. For endurance cars, brake ducting is important enough to incorporate there too. Any additional intakes hurt performance. 

    • Thanks 1

    R34 GTT - big brake kit for track days

    in Motorsport

    Posted

    13 hours ago, Tobz said:

    I also did the Brembo rears, not worth it, but I wanted it to look consistent front to rear

     

     

    Interesting you say that, did you run with just the fronts at any point? Ive been a bit concerned about the way it will affect the bias. Wanted to wait and see before committing to the rears or an external bias controller, but its interesting you dont feel the rears are worth it.

    R34 GTT - big brake kit for track days

    in Motorsport

    Posted

    2 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

    Where are you getting $200 EVO X front rotors? and Evo brembos are about $1000 a pair i have found also

     

    Alpha Omega supply Evo Brembos for $880, which is expensive. Youre really paying for the convenience of not having to look for them. But if you look, you'll find them much cheaper. I paid $500 for mine. Rebuilt them for $80. 

     

    $200 might be each rotor. Cheapest I found for a pair was Bremaxx for $329. Full China, obviously. I bought some just to tide me over, but am nervous about running them on the track. Will likely get some Attkd 2-piece rotors when I eventually get the car together. 

    • Like 1

    R34 Track/Street Car

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Yeh just keep an eye on your boost levels, both mods have the potential to change how much boost and when it comes on, which can mean you run lean in certain areas of the map.

    Intercooler doesn't necessarily have to change your IAT, a return flow is always going to be a fairly large restriction to flow. If you then change that and make it flow a lot better, you lower the potential for boost drop, and more importantly you allow the boost to come on earlier. Depending on how your car was tuned, that could be an issue if you have moved the boost graph to the left. If you have a good boost controller you should still have the peak boost level under control, but where it occurs on the map is potentially different. Couple that with the effects of changing to a EWG as well, which Kinkstaah nailed, and you have potentially given yourself quite a bit of extra range in the map where you are at peak boost. 

     

    So just be aware. It's definitely one where you want to get your tune checked, because who wants to lunch a motor (especially in this day and age!) because their mods worked. I wouldn't be too scared to take it for a test drive and at least get it ramping up to full boost in 2nd gear, but I wouldn't be holding it on peak boost just for the sake of seeing if your couplers are holding. 

    • Like 1

    Canada 1993 gtr ready for action

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    22 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

    i highly doubt prp has sold a tourque plate to eveyrone building an rb...im the only one witha plate within 1000km around here.  id rather buy a tourque plate i know is going to work proper for the rest of my life than try to build one. makes no sense really.  i have lots of friends that can use it now. when you say rb motor to a machine shop around here they look at you cross eyed and say what. my motors are the only rb engines he has ever seen in his life, and now he has experience with them and will now rent plate when he needs it. really just a big motorcycle engine he said. the machining went like a breeze real good guy. not everyone lives in australia where this stuff is second nature and you have the parts you need and a lot of experienced rb guys in the area to just build a torque plate etc...so i went with something that works. i paid 500 bucks for my plate so for the 45k i have spent on my build so far is was a complete no brainer. im surprised by this response. prp-canada has been nothing but helpful for my build. i already have a long list of people wanting to use it now so was a great investment. cheers

     

    I feel like you took my post as a bit of a critisicm - I didn't mean it like that, I understand you haven't got access to a dozen different machinists and builders with extensive RB knowledge. I was replying to your comment about not letting your mates use your torque plate and it becoming a giant paperweight because you felt it wasn't right to PRP... Realistically, PRP are very likely targeting engine builders and machinists with those plates, rather than the individual end users. Or atleast they should be, because not every end user needs to own a torque plate. And if that's the case, then PRP would be well aware that those torque plates are going to be hired out and used many times. I dont feel they would have an issue with that, its what torque plates are for. 

    But given your replies after that about your plans for letting your mates use it, perhaps I misunderstood what you meant too. So I'll just resume following along quietly!

    • Haha 1

    Canada 1993 gtr ready for action

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    I dont feel like PRP need to be selling torque plates to everyone building an RB though, really the only people that need an RB torque plate are the machinists that might be doing more than one engine/people who understand that building a 1000+hp RB means committing to building engines frequently. Considering machinists should be able to make their own torque plate, Ive always felt like it is a bit of an odd thing to be retailing. 

    • Like 1

    Redline lightweight shockproof.

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Victory said:

    I have only ever used Redline Lightweight Shockproof in my four manual R33s with no issues. It makes the gearbox much smoother than any other gear oil that I have used previously.

    Some of the claims that have been made about Redline Lightweight Shockproof include it being able to be used for 400,000 km without needing to be changed. On this basis when I was once doing an oil change after 40,000 km in a R33 it came out very clean so my son reused it in his Mazda 626. That was over 210,000 km ago and that gearbox is still going great with oil that is now over 250,000 km old.

    This is my experience with Redline Lightweight Shockproof.

     

    Well, I had Redline Lightweight Shockproof in my gearbox for around 30,000km. When I dumped it, it was a brownish green sort of colour, quite sludgy, and it stank. I certainly wouldn't try running it for 400,000km 🙄

    R34 Gt To Gtt Engine Swap

    in Other Nissan Imports

    Posted

    16 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

    Parts availability and Prices are shit now. What's your time worth, too?

     

     

    So much this. So much this.

     

    I paid $4000 for the donor car I used, including importing it from Japan. That included everything, engine, gearbox, driveshaft, diff, brakes, some of the interior including matching dash cluster with the correct*** kms, etc. In the end it was a very simple job just to swap everything over out of the one car and into the other. All I needed was a radiator and a front mount due to the front impact on the donor car. I sold my DE Neo engine for 250 bucks, and the DE gearbox including clutch for $200. The rest went in the bin.

     

    Try and get that value out of any donor car these days, you'd likely pay atleast 10k for it. Collect the parts individually and it will probably take you 2 years and still cost 10k. Jesus Christ, these days people are paying $1500 just for a DE Neo motor, and the same again for a DE gearbox. Crazy sauce. These cars just aren't good value anymore, they are expensive to own and modify now for sure. If you're going to do it, it shouldn't be because of prices. 

    • Like 1

    Am I getting ripped off

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    5k doesn't necessarily go far when it comes to making a custom loom. The materials for my loom cost around 4k. If you're using Tefzel, DR-25 and autosport connectors, you will easily get over 5k very very quickly. I'm doing mine myself so there's no labour cost, but if you're paying for labour then 5k doesn't get you a whole lot. It's an extremely time consuming job.

     

    I think you need to ask what you are actually getting for that money. Wiring can cost you anywhere from $1000-$20,000 and over. 

    R34 problems

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    On 16/11/2020 at 6:36 PM, Joshnew6 said:

    just for closure, I was a newbie to everything to do with Rb's, I was running 25 Psi on E85 with spitfire coils, and the problem ended up being that I was running cheap copper plugs, changed to iridiums and problem solved!!

     

    This really doesn't make much sense, unless your copper plugs were old and fouled and the problem was fixed with new plugs. Iridiums dont give you a better spark than coppers, they are just supposed to last longer. But on a modified high performance engine you dont tend to get that longevity out of them and need to replace them more often anyway. The price difference between coppers and iridiums is why most people on here will be running coppers. 

     

    But yeh, I agree with GTSBoy here, gapping plugs is SO 2010. Nowadays R35 and Audi R8 conversion kits are a dime a dozen, I'm amazed 'Splitfire' and 'feeler gauges' are still words that people know.

    Canada 1993 gtr ready for action

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

    -40? What the actual f**k!  How do you function at all? I go to shit if it gets down to plus 10!

     

    Haha I'm sure he will ask how we function at all when we get over 40° here, you just do. I function better in the cold though, I'd much rather -40 than +40! Atleast with -40 you can just put on more clothes, with +40 you just suffer through it.

     

    To be fair though, once you go below -5°, cold is cold, you dont really notice the difference. I was in Greenland last year for 11 days, 8 of which were below -30. But you dress the same for it, you're still wearing all your gear so its not super noticeable. Your face gets pretty cold pretty quick though!

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