Unzipped Composites
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Posts posted by Unzipped Composites
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30 minutes ago, r32-25t said:
People are always envious of other peoples success
This.
People also love to jump on the internet and harp on about how shit someone is when they're developing new products because saying something is shit makes you seem like you know what you're talking about. When really you're just an end user and don't really know what goes in to developing high end products.
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Haha... I threw my condenser in the bin when I stripped the car down, imagining that second hand they were worth 3 cents and a mouldy apple core.
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14 hours ago, BakemonoRicer said:
I don't understand why people don't go & handpick the turbo from the shop. Inspect the thing before buying it.
Also, I strongly believe the "casting issue" turbos are bought at a discount from BW and sold on for same price by the suppliers. My 7670 from GCG has no issue whatsoever.
You should be a politician Benji; just as out of touch. I'm surprised you don't send your butler to go do the inspection for you.
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5 hours ago, UWISSH! said:
100% with you on this
just imagine receiving a brand new set of lmgt4s with a big chip taken out of one of the spokes and then getting the same response from nismo that from time to time there can be imperfections but doesn’t affect the function of the rims
i bet everybody here would be super pissed about it
The difference there being that rims are primarily an aesthetic component, and their performance is a somewhat secondary consideration for most. Turbos are the opposite, people want the best performance and their aesthetic appeal is less important.
All of that said, I do still 100% agree with the point being made and I'm a little surprised by BW's response to it. Yes, casting inclusions can happen from time to time, but it's still an issue and you dont sell that to someone. It might only be a cosmetic flaw, but it does not inspire confidence in the product as a whole. At the very least, offer those ones at a discounted rate, you can't sell that for the same price that you sell a perfect one. But realistically any company should be wary of putting their name on flawed products, I would be throwing those ones in the bin.
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1 hour ago, etang789 said:
Congrats! Very nice!
To get the car reliable and fun in the long run I always recommend my friends to get these items:
- a proper standalone ECU, ditch the external boost controller, then a proper tune
- Bosch EV14 Injectors
- aftermarket crank pulley
Completely agree with the first two but No. 3 is a strange one to say is a must have? At those km's I'd think about getting a brand new OEM crank pulley on there, but probably only if the motor was coming out for any reason. It would be a long list before crank pulley came up for me!
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2 hours ago, tomaytown said:
Argh, I do love Skylines...hope the GTT sticks around in 4 years on my opens then...
They've been around for 23 years, they'll be around in another 4 haha. Who knows what they'll be selling for though 🙄🙄🙄
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3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Here's an idea, buy a R33 GTS-t OR R34 GT-t, de-rego it and just store it.
Buy a P plater fun, stock car, enjoy it. Then once you're ready, sell and play with the whooshy break oil pump Skyline.
This seems like something that would have been a good option 5 years ago - in today's climate it seems like a really really poor investment.
I honestly think unless you have some sentimental attraction towards Skylines - they really aren't that impressive a car. Don't get me wrong I wouldn't trade mine for anything and I have a massive soft spot for any Skylines I see (especially ones that are being tracked) - but if you're going in thinking about resale and how you're going to sell it in a few years, then unless it's a GTR I would stay well away and go for a more modern car.
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Golf R great choice as well, impress your mates and ya mum at the same time!
Seriously though, those little VW's are pretty quick. Between the 86 and the Golf, you've literally just described almost half the regular field in our local time attack series haha. None of them are anywhere close to winning, but they're giving it a red hot crack 😅
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I would say forget the Skyline, get the 86. 86/BRZ being the more modern car will be the nicest to drive, so that would probably be my pick. Plus less police attention, decent aftermarket options, etc.
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They are likely going to be different colours. Best way to know for sure is still going to be to go to a paint supply shop and just ask them to compare the Hex code for the two colours.
And then while you're there, get them to mix you up a can for cheaper than you would pay to get off-the-shelf non-matching junk.
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Yeh wow, the new one actually sounds cheap by today's standards. I wouldn't even be thinking about the used one. In fact, I don't need one but I'm tempted to jump on that and get one myself before the drift brigade find out! 🤣
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Just now, Rusty Nuts said:
There are some good guides for prep on YouTube. Wax and grease remover use before starting any work, use before and after sanding and use a plastic etch primer if you're using cans Septone make one I've used.
Also wash with soap and water. Wax and grease remover will remove oil based contamination but not water based. Best to use both.
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Yeh I dunno, keep in mind that what Nismo were doing with the cars and what Gibson were doing with the cars was quite different.
It's well known the Australian GTR's were making more power than the Nismo GTR's, Australia had the strongest Group A series in the world and they needed the power to compete. Nismo were making bank selling 500hp engines to private racers, and they owned the Japan Group A series. So for them developing the car further just meant spending more money, and they were already winning so why do it.
Here the Nismo-spec cars wouldn't have won, Gibson had to push them further and develop the cars more, and Nismo were too expensive so they were only a small part of that. Gibson were developing a lot of parts themselves as well as getting stuff locally and from America etc. But Nismo and Nissan still supported that development, and they developed the stronger blocks for them etc. The motors weren't getting completely rebuilt after every race, reliability was an important consideration for them and they had an obscene budget to do it.
You also have to wonder if they were capping power at 650 because that was the limit of the engine or because of other factors, ie. Old school turbo tech, old school ECU's, old school dyno tech, tyre restrictions meaning the old school tyre tech couldn't get it to the ground, terrible aero also making it difficult to drive any faster, etc. Is it a case of they pushed the engine as hard as it could go, or is it they pushed the entire package to the limit of what would make a fast Group A car? We know Skaife said they were horrific cars to drive, would having 800hp with bigger, laggier turbos have made them faster or slower?
So it's sort of difficult to say what power they were 'engineered' to handle vs what power they were developed to handle for Group A racing vs what power they can handle after 30 years of aftermarket development, etc.
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I also think it would be wrong to say that RB's are weak or inherently flawed. Their oil control issues and block strength aren't a design flaw, they did exactly what they were designed to do when being used for what they were designed to do. Really it's the fact that they are quite a solid base that we are discovering their limits, because people are trying to push them to 600-700-800+ horsepower. Go and try that with a Toyota 2ZZ, the crank starts walking around at 500hp and you can't stop it. There's plenty of motors that legitimately can't handle it at all, the RBs sort of can but you're asking a lot of them.
At the end of the day, there's just no guarantees either way. You might build a 600hp engine and have it last 15 years, it might last 2 months - there's no way to guarantee it. So you're playing an odds game, you're rolling the dice. And if you aren't comfortable rolling the dice with the amount of money that it costs to play the game, then the best advice anyone can give is to not do it. Don't go to the casino and put all your money on Red if it will hurt too much when you land on Black.
Just ask Laine@bcozican, he's the sort of man that stands with his back to the table and barely even checks what colour the last throw landed on before rolling again 🤣🤣🤣❤
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Ahh I see, I thought you were saying you were going back to a 2.6L. Just misunderstood what you meant by based.
Carry on then!
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22 hours ago, BK said:
Not just sitting there idling though, quicker you get to operation temp the better under light load. It'll take a lot more than 10 minutes idling to get to 80 oil temp, even at 40+ ambient unless your cooling system sucks.
This.
Can't stand it when people sit there idling their cars for 10+ minutes, it's doing more harm than good. Never seen a GT3/V8 Supercar/Pro time attack car etc sit idling for 10 minutes, you fire it up and get moving.
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Wait, did I miss something? What happened to the 2.7?
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4 minutes ago, SKYMAGGOT said:
Cheers, I was looking at the Kelford 262 9.3 or usual poncams but don't know enough about ramp rates, overlap etc & seems to be not much posted about results for the Kelfords
Kelfords are definitely the go, forget shitty old Jap cams. Speak to Kelford about your aims for your build, they can give you guidance on the most appropriate profile.
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1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:
Mine did... for the same year/motor combination that OP has 😛 through the IM240 in NSW which is far and beyond more stringent than the 5 gas test WA does.
The kicker for me was it was the only one I could find that was a 3in 400 cell cat, and its worth mentioning I have two of them, one in each bank, as I have a 2x 3in exhaust into a 3.5in.
... and they are also behind 100 cell cats, which are further up the bank!
Just sayin they do work for the make/model that this thread is relevant for, but I probably would have paid the extra for the racecraft ones, but trying to get information on them other than "Cell" and "Euro" spec was impossible at the time.Fair enough, I stand corrected!
I'll admit, I had never noticed any smells and when on 98 it would take a good few months of driving without washing before any soot developed on the rear bar, so they obviously did something. I had always been content with it until it failed the emissions test, which as you say is only a 5 gas test. My package just needed a different combination I guess.
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13 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:
I was able to buy some 5in body 400 cell cats (x2) which had 3in pipe either side. I can confirm they work and may be cheaper, I want to say they were just under $200 each.
They do remove smell, because I have 'cat delete pipes' that can be swapped in with vbands.
These delete pipes sit in a box, because.. they do not seem to impact performance at all, and fix the smell, and .. well, the cats make the car sound better lol.Won't pass an emissions test though. Used to have one on my car when it was a street car, but it failed the Euro 3 standards even on E85. Was going to buy a certified Euro 4 cat to replace it but ended up taking the car off the road instead.
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Feel like I had those titanium exhaust studs come up in a sponsored Facebook ad. They seem alright?
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This thread makes me feel young and irresponsible still... I like it.
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4 hours ago, PLYNX said:
I have also had great success using vinyl ester resins for these sort of repairs over the years.
Vinyl ester resin tends to be a little bit more flexible than polyester resins used in most fiberglass
But as Martin ( Unzipped Composites ) states prep work is very important for the best adhesion.
With ABS type plastics first washing the affected area first to get rip of dirt and grime first.
Sand area as required
Then cleaning the area down with acetone will begin to "soften" the plastic and make the surface sticky or tacky to the touch.
And then finally a wash down with styrene monomer being sure not to touch the area after the wash down to avoid contaminants on the fresh plastic surface.
This will give the very best adhesion between the plastic and vinyl ester resin on application.
So ends today science lesson !
I still wouldn't consider this a permanent repair man. Vinyl esters aren't really more flexible than polyesters*. Realistically vinyl has better cross-bonding properties which is why it works better than polyester, but epoxy is even better again so if you had to choose a regular laminating resin to attempt to repair ABS with then it would be epoxy all day long.
Fact remains though, ABS is a low energy plastic and is difficult to bond to. Not completely impossible like some others types of plastic, HDPE and Polypropylene are virtually impossible to bond, but still difficult enough that even an epoxy bond will only be 'moderate'. You can improve it slightly by increasing the surface energy of the ABS through flame treatment, though this is more difficult than just waving a butane torch around for a few minutes. There is a precise moment when the flame treatment increases the open sites on the ABS and it becomes bondable, but take it too far and those open sites break down again and the surface actually becomes 'greasy' and even more difficult to bond to. So really to do it properly requires proper equipment, and is a bit beyond the realms of repairing a vehicle panel.
*they are, but you're talking ~5% elongation of vinyl vs 3.5% elongation of polyester - ABS is around 50%. This can be part of the problem, because the laminated fibreglass patch will fail long before the ABS does, meaning any patch will always delaminate without much strain. Obviously this is only really an issue if the patch is in an area where the ABS is constantly moving around (try to patch an ABS mudguard and see how long it lasts), on a component that is rigidly mounted and doesn't move much like a front bumper, then the patch will mostly stay in place unless it experiences a large degree of flex at some point (like pulling the bumper off). Trouble is, on a vehicle all panels are subject to vibration, which can start to break the bond and make the repair visible underneath your paint job. It may not actually fall off completely, but it is less than ideal to have a repair showing up later once you've gone through all that effort and expense.
All of this is largely irrelevant simply because products exist that are more suitable for the job.
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On 04/05/2021 at 11:40 AM, burn4005 said:
you're overthinking it and your gut feel is way off. Its primarily an oil drainage concern.
the axial thrust forces on a compressor/turbine assembly are huge when operating at high mass flows. force on the thrust surfaces due to gravity will be orders of magnitude less. the compressor its trying to suck itself out the front of the turbo and the turbine is trying to blow itself out the exhaust. yes, these forces are in opposite directions but do not cancel completely which is why journal bearing turbos require a thrust bearing as they have no inherent axial stability otherwise.
from your chart the most appropriate bearing for a CHRA would either be a pair of identical 7s or a pair of 6s in a mirrored arrangement.
main concern is oil drainage and oil pooling at the back of the CHRA if the angle is excessive, for the same reason a maximum of 20degrees of rotation about the shaft axis is recommended.
remember, accelerating and braking the car at ~1g is going to impart more force on the rotating assembly than inclining it by even 45 degrees, let alone 10 or 20.
this is a question that should be directed at BW.
Few days late, and obviously not an EFR; but for what it's worth I've worked on a customer's 67 Impala that had twin GTX3582R's mounted vertically down on the bellhousing. Dry sump, so gravity drainage wasn't an issue, and no bearing problems.
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Garrett G Series
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Not quite what you are after as this is a straight back to back between an old GT2871 (not GTX) and an external gate G25-550, but it might give you something of an idea?
Engine is a stock SR20. This wasn't pushed as hard as it could go, could only put 1.5bar into it as the customer was still running the internal map sensor on his PS2000.