MrStabby
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Posts posted by MrStabby
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My ABS warning light comes on a few seconds after engine start. I've checked brake fluid level and fuses. What's next to troubleshoot this? I can read CEL codes but nothing ABS related comes up, however, i guess that may be just a limitation of the software.
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From what I remember about materials science, with all other things being equal, there is a hardness vs toughness trade off. The guy in the video seems to think that hardness is everything, whereas I would have thought the hardest blocks would be the most prone to cracking.
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2 hours ago, mr_rbman said:
Is it just me or is that plug gap huuuuuge?!?!?!
The 11 in the number will refer to 1.1mm gap, so yeah that big gap would explain the break down under power.
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Car runs fine until it gets some boost then I get what sounds like a high tension short. I've got LS2 coils and use the factory boots. Has worked fine in the past. I've replaced plugs, cleaned surfaces etc. Other than getting into a dark dyno room, is there some other way to find which coil is shorting? Maybe dust the area fingerprint style, then look for burnt dust?
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43 minutes ago, Matvei27 said:
Should I replace the unit or does this sound like a wiring/sensor issue?
If you're ok with soldering you could try pulling it apart and looking for dry joints to re-solder since that issue has been noticed on other stuff (eg AFMs and the digital clock). Probably easier to just get another tho.
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On 9/27/2018 at 11:15 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Prices on the parts is a bit over the top, labour wise about $700~800 is fair.
I suggest try to get the labour down to $700~$800 and supply all the parts yourself.
Only problem with supplying parts yourself is if something goes wrong, its messy. Yeah its pretty hard to go wrong with bushes but I have had some lower control arm bushes fail on me many years ago (what were the light blue ones? IIRC the company went bust).
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20 hours ago, Robocop2310 said:
Hi mate, appreciate the response. I got a wheel alignment done today and it turned out that I have -1.5 at the front and around -2.2 camber on the rears which is pretty much spot on to what you said.
Due to the geometry of the arms, the lower the car, the more camber you get. Obviously the factory adjustment range suits the factory height but is often too little if the car is lowered much. Your aligner probably pulled the rears as straight as they could, but if you find the rears wear too much on the inside for your liking, you'll probably need to add adjustable bushes or arms to get more adjustment.
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That AP bottle shape/profile is exactly the same as the Motul bottle. The fluids may come from the same factory and just get an AP or Motul cap colour and label.
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On 9/5/2018 at 7:14 AM, K_arlstrom said:
Fairly similar from what I can find, not close enough to stop it from lashing back and forth. They state that it's normal, but they didn't want to give any recommended clearance or warranties, "If it works, it works, we got out money" is how I read their reply.
Well that's not cool.
What the factory clearance? On page EN-96 of the shop manual, it says "Measurement position 5 is the figure obtained by subtracting the housing flange outside diameter from the the inner gear inside diameter" and shows a micrometer being used on the inside of the inner gear. If "housing flange" is some weird engrish for the crank mating area, then the clearance is 0.045-0.091 mm (0.0018-0.0036 in)...
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Add 15ml of engine oil to 60psi cylinder and try again. If psi goes up, then its piston/ring of not its head/valve.
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I dont know anything about engine building, but if the reimax gear is made from a different material to the N1 gear, then it could have a different co-efficient of thermal expansion and therefore require a different clearance. That's just theory tho - I have no intuition on whether its a likely explanation in this case. Let us know when they get back to you.
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Agree. Went from 200 to 100 cell and fumes noticeably worse. May eventually go back to 200 cell.
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Answering my own question - i got it out by removing the fan, shroud, belt and PS reservoir to pump tube. Part number appears to be 23100-AM610 (best guess based on the numbers out there and what's still readable). Searching ebay there's none locally but plenty in the US starting around $345 delivered. I'll see if my local guy can rebuild.
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Solid center clutches are much tougher on the gearbox than sprung center clutches. At the SAU NSW tech night at Award Diff and Gearbox, Terry said the the two biggest problems for gearboxes is solid center clutches and owner abuse...
So yeah, swap to a sprung center, but you're at the power level where people have problems with 3rd.
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I can jump start but there's only 11v when running so looks like the alternator's dead. It pretty tight in there - should i take the radiator out to get to it? Or do i need to take the oil filter+heat exchanger and sway bar off?
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Ah. I've already replaced the thermostat, and at this stage I CBF taking it off again.Guess i'll keep going for a while more.
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Front guards wider because wheels that steer require more space?
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On 6/26/2018 at 1:58 PM, gerry whtie said:
My M35 has recently developed an issue where oil residue is accumulating at the bottom of the pipe that goes from the intercooler up to the inlet manifold and when you stop a strong smell of oil comes in the cabin. I've pulled the intercooler and associated pipes off and cleaned inside them and checked all hose fittings the only one that i have not removed is the plastic pipe that runs up to the the manifold as it's difficult to get at the securing bolt without dismantling half the car. Could that pipe be split or does anybody have any other suggestions, the car has done 168.000 klms and has lost no performance.
If there's oil on the outside, then yes it sounds like a leak, but if were leaking you'd be loosing boost too, so be down on power and running very rich when the turbo is flowing. If you're sure the pipe there is ok, i'd be replacing the clamp with a better one. The ones which have the slots cut in the strap for the thread to engage in are often pretty crappy, and sometimes only made for single use.
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13 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:
So long as its hot enough to open the thermostat ...so I take it you are not flushing the block but just draining the radiator?
I've been pulling off the bottom rad hose, and opening the bleeder on the top of the motor, and leaving to drain for an hour or so.
Should I pull off the drop radiator hose and run the garden hose through it too?
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I think the heater core control is stuffed - i can't get hot air, so no. But yeah i guess I should give that another go.
I have been bringing to car up to temp (according to the coolant sensor) but not running it long enough for oil temp to get to its normal level.
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Since i installed a new radiator in the GTR i've been flushing the system with water as i'm changing coolant type. The green colour of the old coolant has gone, but the water comes out slightly dirty and with a very fine powder that settles out of the old coolant. The powder is too fine to feel. Should I persist with more flushes or is there something fundamental wrong?
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Just fitted a rat32r kit with an alternator he supplied. Very nice kit and straight forward instalation. Idle voltage has gone from 14.2v to 14.45v. The Attessa light is staying off now, so the only remaining issue is the ABS.
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vlink arrived, and its works well with HobDrive!
Now, why am i getting P0171 System too lean (Bank 1)....
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Ok will check for that.
FYI for the thread - From: http://www.ipswichradiators.com.au/images/documents/FS119_-_Stray_current_corrosion_in_cooling_systems.pdf
1. Remove the radiator cap and run the engine to operation temperature. Do not rev the engine as this may cause the coolant to aerate.
2. Switch ON all electrical items including items.
3. Switch a multimeter to a scale of 5 volts DC or less. Ideally the meter should be capable of reading milli-volts. A digital multimeter may not be suitable for this test.
4. Place the negative lead of the multimeter on the battery negative post.
5. Dip the positive lead into the coolant without touching the filler neck or the core of the radiator.
6. A reading of more than .05 volts indicates the presence of potentially damaging stray current passing through the coolant. Ideally the voltage should be 0 volts, however it is highly possible that some voltage level will be detected.
7. If no voltage or a very low voltage is detected, carry out the same test as in point 4, but with the ignition OFF.
8. If voltage is detected, isolate the circuit by turning all electrical items OFF and switching each circuit ON individually.
NM35 ABS light
in Wagoneers
Posted
Damn. Anyone in Sydney have the right Consult?