MrStabby
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Posts posted by MrStabby
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PWR reckoned the 42 will work, so its been ordered.
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30 minutes ago, admS15 said:
Here's a pic of what the home screen looks like.
That's going to make me want to replace the pop up LCD screen in the center console with a smalll tablet....
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1 hour ago, admS15 said:
This one from this exact seller. A bit pricey but works and delivered next day. Connects to hob drive via wifi.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262925934977
Great - i've ordered that one.
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1 hour ago, admS15 said:
Hob drive android app. Can show and clear dtc's and read all sensors. Works on m35, i use it with a vgate wifi obd dongle.
I tried Hob Drive with a cheapo bluetooth but it didnt work. Which one did you get?
or
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Thread resurrection - has anyone found a cheap alternative in all the current options?
Perhaps this at moderate cost ($175)? Mentions JOBD, KWP2000, and "Vehicle coverage for Nissan ( 1996 to 2014 )" with Stagea in the list
Would prefer to find a IOS/Android app tho.
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2 minutes ago, Robzilla32 said:
Hey @MrStabby,
Last year you started this thread. Are you not considering any of these options?
I thought the HPI multi flow option looked decent but expensive.
Cheers
Rob
Jesus, completely forgot about that post....senility is hitting hard. IIRC that was before i got the CoolingPro cleaned. Anyways, pretty sure i'll go the PWR now.
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Ok cool. I can see the 55 would be a massive PITA. FWIW, I measured up the NM35 fan+clutch when i had it out and it looks like it would bolt on and be 15mm shorter, but the back of fan may then touch balancer pulley, and there's so much other stuff that would still be a problem.
Will email PWR to see if they'll offer an opinion on whether it should be ok, but will almost certainly go with the 42mm PWR.
Thanks!
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7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
PWR radiators are fantastic, I tracked my 370kW+ GTS-t piece of shit on a 40 degree day in 2016 and water temps never exceeded 110 degrees with only a baby 19 row Mocal oil cooler.
In the past, I ran an ASI yumcha radiator and water temps would peak 120 very easily on a 30 degree day.
Only real world data I have, now I've upgraded to a 25 row Setrab oil cooler with the same radiator - shit box has yet to see the track but I can imagine lower water temps and lower oil temps as I've deleted the water/oil heat exchanger.
Johnny how thick is your PWR? 42mm? 55mm?
Two options listed for R32
Part No: PWR0546 – Skyline 32GTR and GtST 55m (needs thermo) 55mm ([email protected])
Part No: PWR0943 – Skyline 32GTR and GTST 42mm ([email protected]) -
14 hours ago, Dobz said:
I would have thought cleaning would have only a positive effect on a radiators operation.
What checks have been done for other causes?Yep, the cleaning helped, and the Natrad guy said it came up good after it was done. He also said the Cooling Pro was actually decent, unlike most of the yum cha chinese stuff he sees.
Temps are fine for non-track usage. Water pump has maybe 20,000kms on it, thermostat has been replaced, fan clutch has strong resistance to being stopped, coolant replaced, properly bled.
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I have an 8yo Cooling Pro 40mm triple core from Justjap, which has been recently cleaned by Natrad, but the car quickly overheated on a 23 degree track day. I was going to get a Racepace triple core, but they have stopped doing them as they cant find a decent core supplier.
What can i upgrade to that will do the job?
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If your M35 is overheating, check that the fan clutch is still supplying enough drive to move a decent amount of air. Fortunately, the fan clutch on the M35 is bolted together, which means it can be refilled. It will spin quite fast even it if it is completely stuffed. Search youtube for videos on how to check it (eg
1. Drive the car until everything is fully up to temperature. This will take a lot longer than to bring the temperature gauge up to its normal position.
2. Use an old magazine (or whatever) to slowly press against the spinning fan blades to slow them down. The fan will have a fair bit of momentum, even if the clutch is stuffed. I could hold the fan still with barely any pressure using my pinkie finger after it had slowed down. Again - watch some videos first.
If you confirm that the clutch is stuffed, you will need fluid to re-fill it. Many use Toyota fluid, example part numbers are 08816-03001 or 08816-06001 or 08816-10001, which are 3000, 6000 and 10000 CST respectively. Higher CST is thicker/more viscous. The Toyota fluid is about $17 for 12ml on ebay. The fluid is reported to be silicon oil, which cost me $20 for 50ml from a hobby store. You need about 80ml. I originally used 10000 cst from both Toyota and hobby store and they appeared the same. I don't know what viscosity is correct, but the car sounds like an old skool v8 with fan noise now, so its either correct or too viscous (or i added too much fluid).
EDIT: 10000 is definitely too thick - I have swapped it for 6000 which is better, but i'm still getting some belt squeal at high RPM, so either i have a belt/tension issue or its still too thick. Suggest 3000 as a starting point for anyone trying this.
Steps are;
1. Remove the air box snorkel, and air box.
2. Undo the 4 x 10mm headed nuts from the fan mount, and the 2 bolts holding the top of the fan shroud on, and lift them out together. This will require a bit of wriggling
3. Spray the bolts, screws and pin in the middle of the bi-metallic strip of the fan assembly with WD40, and leave to soak.
4. Take the fan off the fan clutch (10mm headed bolts)
5. Undo the phillips head screws holding the two halves of the clutch together, and pry them apart.
6. Leave the two halves upside down to drain the old fluid overnight, or clean them out with solvent. When i drained out the new 10000cst it didn't come out clean, so i'd recommend cleaning it out now, even though i didnt. AFAIK, WD40, Kerosine, Degreaser etc leave a greasy residue and will contaminate the new fluid, so brake cleaner is probably a better option.
7. Use needle nose pliers to verify that the pin at the center of the bi-metallic strip on the outside of clutch can turn a little / is not seized.
8. Fill the reservoir up with new fluid. I filled to the top of the first step, so about the level of the black rectangle in the centre.
9. Bolt the two halves together and re-attach the fan
10. Re-install the fan and shroud, being careful to get the tabs at the bottom of the shroud keyed in before you bolt the top on.
11. Beers
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Ok, so the hydraulic clutch on the main fan was completely stuffed. When moving it has a lot of momentum, but once i slowed it down (youtube search "how to test a viscous fan clutch"), I could hold it still with my pinkie finger. Have refilled it and the air it moves sounds like an old v8!
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334kw in 2WD mode on -7s
Nistune (tuned by Unigroup)
Xforce split dumps
Aftermarket front pipe (56mm(2.25“) ID primaries/76mm(3”) sec), 3.5in matrix 100 cell cat, 3.5 in Trust Cat back
Blitz SSBC boost controller
Xspurt 1000cc injectors
LS2 (D514a) coilpacks
Trust Intercooler, about the same size as stock
Sard 280l/hr high volume fuel pump with direct earth
Mobil M1 0W-40-
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Just read the codes and got;
P0150 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor I)
P0151 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor I)
P0160 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0162 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)Is bank2 driver or passenger side?
Are there really 3 sensors per bank, so 6 in total? (dafuq?)
Given that they all happen to be on one side, i'm guessing its wiring.
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11 hours ago, discopotato03 said:
I think there is an issue with a single spray injector and 4 valve per cylinder inlet ports , probably not the best idea to be spraying at the port divider when you want the atomised fuel air mix heading towards the inlet valves
IIRC heat from the back of the inlet valve is used to help atomise the fuel.
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On the 32 GTR, this hack;
uses a diode to make the auxiliary fan come on when the air con is turned on. On the 32 It seemed to keep the coolant temp down and the cabin cooler. I'd like to try it on the Stag. Looks like there's no relay/fuses for air con presented at the wiring junction near the battery.
Has anyone got a wiring diagram or a translation for the footwell fuse box?
Other than waiting until the next overheat, how would i check that the aux fan is running at all?
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On 12/15/2017 at 4:33 PM, KiwiRS4T said:
What I do is pump out about 2L turn it off and add 2L down the dipstick and repeat until the fluid comes out clean.
Did that and it worked well. The fluid didnt look great so i pushed 8 litres through. Now crossing fingers to see if its enough to stop the overheating.
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13 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:
What colour is your ATF? If it is dark brown rather than bright red consider using the opportunity to change the fluid (which you cannot do by draining or dropping the sump). You may need 12L or so to do this.
I've just done the 4lts in the pan a couple of times, so it shouldn't be too bad but i havent checked in a while. I had assumed that pumping it all out would be risky for any running that occurred after the last of the fluid was out. Do you think pumping it all out would be safe?
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After i've connected the cooler, i'm thinking of running it with the outlet into a bucket for a few seconds to flush it just in case. Is there any risk with doing that?
Will it flow in neutral or will it need to be in drive?
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Im installing a Scotty cooling/bleeder kit - do the black plastic washers/spacers go between the fuel rail and the manifold? Cant see them in my photos...
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7 hours ago, Deceiver said:
The info in the first post re: front wheel bearing on NM35 being the same as J32 Maxima is incorrect.
I ordered an aftermarket J32 Maxima bearing and hub assy from Bursons and attempted to fit it, but found the bearing carrier to be too large to fit the stub axle.
The CORRECT part number for an aftermarket bearing is NJ137KIT - this is a CBC part number, and should be available from most bearing places.
Thanks - i've updated the front page with your info.
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"the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has granted Breakthrough Therapy Designation to MDMA for the treatment of posttraumatic stress disorder (PTSD)."
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EDIT: Doh - wrong thread.
"the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has granted Breakthrough Therapy Designation to MDMA for the treatment of posttraumatic stress disorder (PTSD)."
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You can get your struts re-gassed. I had the Stagea ones done, and the dude put a bit more than standard pressure in them as its was still a bit soft at spec.
R32 GTR radiator for 333kw + track use
in Forced Induction Performance
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Ok thanks for the info. I happen to have a spare Tridon CB16110 here, so i'll use that instead of the Nismo that's on the CoolingPro. The Nismo is 18psi, whereas the Tridon is 16 psi (110kpa) as you probably know.
EDIT: Forgot to mention that PWR said i should use a 16PSI cap.