smok74

Your best bet is go down to AUTOBAHN and grab yourself a tube of AUTOSOL. Comes in toothpaste-like tube. Use 2 pieces of soft COTTON cloth, DO NOT USE NYLON or anything harsh. Apply the Autosol with one cloth and rub it on in a circular motion AND dont rub in a straight line as you will leave lines/scratches all over the aluminium. Try not to be greedy and only work one area at a time - the trick is BE CONSISTENT. Let it dry a little and the use the other CLEAN cloth to buff it off lightly. Once you rub the Autosol into the aluminium, it will GO BLACK in colour, try to use a clean part of the cloth at all times. This is the same technique I used to polish my RB26 rocker covers, I first used paint stripper to get rid of the factory black paint, rub the whole lot down with 2400 grit wet/dry (WET- with water) paper, buffed it a little using a buffing wheel on a power drill, then continued with this technique above...... AUTOSOL is a cheap option, if you want it to really GO OFF and money is not a concern, while you're down at Autobahn, grab yourself a tub of MEGUIAR'S MOTORCYCLE ALL METAL POLISH as well, apply and buff it the same way, but it gives a mirror finish that's best if you seal it off with 2-pack clear once it's done otherwise it's a waste of time. I do have to warn you, the MEGUIAR'S stuff isnt cheap.....around $20 for a small tub....but I guess the bikies can afford it LOL Polishing aluminium is in fact pretty easy, the hardest part is that it's TIME CONSUMING..... I spent almost 15 hours on my custom Mr Enforcer inlet manifold and about the same on EACH of the three parts on my RB26 covers. That's the main reason why you'd wanna seal it with 2-pak clear afterwards..... BUT having said all that...... your best bet is a $2 can of matt black from the local supermarket and keep the f*ckin cops off your back and keep yourself defect-free....... LOL

For ya 'typical' RB powered Skyline (2 litres are poor-man's RB and they dont count) a good all rounder : GT3540R - .82 turbine housing for more top end OR .64 for fast spool AND if youre really insane and/or have a RB30 bottom end conversion, go see Michael Ramsey at GCG turbochargers and get him to custom build you one of his GT3566R specials LOL THEN you'll have fun....try 430+kw @ the wheels worth. Be warned tho, you're up for about two n a half large ones.... Simple really.

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A 'SAFE PING' LOL Just to confirm things, the recommanded max boost for a factory RB25DET turbo with the ceramic turbine wheel is about 12 psi. For everyday driving, I'd be running it on 10 psi as your 'Hi boost'. Anything over 12psi and you run the risk of breaking your turbine off and embedding it in your cat convertor. Not a pretty sight at all. In regards to the engine light.... With the POWER FC, it uses the warning light on your dash to indicate a number of things.... maxin out your injectors, engine knock etc.... if you had a FC Commander controller, you could in fact program it to show a number of these 'warnings' in real time. http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#70 <---- GO HERE, TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ THE BLOODY THING.... It'll explain to you a lot what that stupid Japanese booklet that the PowerFC came with doesnt explain...it probably does, not that any of us could understand it lol unless you're a Jap of course.

The less residue you leave on the AFM the better - residue (especially oily crap) promotes more sh*t sticking to the wire element .... what I did with mine, flushed the element in the middle of the AFM with a bit of acetone using a little squiter / dropper.... watched all the brown shit come dripping off. Just gotta watch the acetone doesnt come into contact with the wall of the AFM for too long, being plastic, you wouldnt wanna melt it lol its lucky acetone evaporates quickly....

Dude, I picked up a brand new polished one off Ebay with the flange plate in a box for $180 shipped to my door so I think you're a bit ambitious there....

DID SOME RESEARCH..... I think the standard XF TPS that came with the XF throttlebody may be used...... FORD XF TPS PINOUT : GREEN - SIGNAL ORANGE - 5V BLACK - EARTH They both operate at 5 volts so why cant the ford unit be wired into the standard RB25DET harness ? I know the series 1 and series 2 RB25DET TPS are different as the series 1 has one plug and the series 2 has two plugs - REFER TO: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/283142 This forum listing explains how a 3-wire 5 volt TPS can be wired into the series 2 RB25DET (2-plug) harness I'm in the process of hooking everything up and see what happens.... worse comes to worst, I've got a brand new generic 80mm throttlebody sitting here that I can use the standard RB25DET TPS with......

WHY RB30 TPS ??!? Why cant the standard XF TPS that came with the XF throttlebody be used ??? FORD XF TPS PINOUT : GREEN - SIGNAL ORANGE - 5V BLACK - EARTH They both operate at 5 volts so why cant the ford unit be wired into the standard RB25DET harness ? I know the series 1 and series 2 RB25DET TPS are different as the series 1 has one plug and the series 2 has two plugs - REFER TO: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/283142 This forum listing explains how a 3-wire 5 volt TPS can be wired into the series 2 RB25DET (2-plug) harness

I replaced the two 2-bolt flanges on either end of my cat convertor with v-bands (for simple and quick changes) and had a simple stainless steel de-cat pipe made up that I only use at the circuit on track days or at the drags, along with this, I also use a BuddyClub spec II light weight racing exhaust (which is basically a thin-wall straight thru pipe with no mufflers or resonators), I also had seperate maps written for this condition.... De-cat pipes are a definite 'NO-NO' on the public roads as its a $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ fine if you get done. Any difference ? oh yes.... 18kw at the rear wheels

With the factory rubber induction pipe, it wouldnt matter much if you are running standard boost, but once you push close to the limit of the factory turbo of around 12-14psi (the factory ceramic turbine doesnt like it much when you thrash it past this thrashold) it tends to suck itself shut, I've seen some people make up some sort of a wire brace to stick inside it to hold it open under boost, but WHY BOTHER ?? with the risk of getting objects jammed inside the compressor.....The replacement alloy induction pipe is perfect when you are running 1 bar or above with a factory styled low mount turbo.... As with the panel filter, honestly, I was running a OEM Nissan unit in the standard factory airbox and had no problems at all above 270+ rwkw, having said that, Im sure a replacement unit from any of the 'big' guys are pretty good.... I heard somewhere that the late model V8 Commodore filters would work as well, but double check on the sizing because I havent actually checked on it, but to think of it, if its capable of supporting enough air flow for a 5 or 6 litre V8, there shouldnt be any hassles handling a blown 2.5 litre.

So I assume the Z32 cable is longer version with the same ends ........ Thanks champ.

With my previous setup in my RB25DET (R33), I was running the standard airbox with a hi-flow paper filter and pushing 270rwkw with a hi-flowed standard turbo, it wasnt until upgrading to a GT3582R (hi mounted) that I went to a pod filter, this is because of the 4 inch inlet on the GT35 compressor that I had to change the inlet pipe leading into the turbo from the filter, so I installed a 4-inch pod.... I didnt see the need in changing to a pod until I needed to. With a relatively standard low mount setup, there is really no need in going to a pod filter unless you want to be a cop bait. In terms of performance, what I found that is more important is the actually the factory rubber induction pipe going from the air flow meter to the turbo, this factory item tends to collapse and suck itself close under higher boost... a good mod is to replace this with an alloy/metal item, I've seen an alloy version of this pipe with all the necessary clamps and hoses going on Ebay for around the $100 - $120 mark... a good investment if you want to give your Skyline a mild boost-up. With the exhaust, everything from the factory after the turbo are considered as restrictions....ie dump/down pipe, cat convertor etc... It doesnt really matter what brand you use, go with 3 inch minimun (including the cat convertor as this is probably the biggest restriction in your system !!) and it should be sweet for a long time. What I would do with your first stage of tune is to go with a split-style dump pipe where there are two seperate pipes for the main dump and internal wastegate merging into a 3 inch down pipe (around $200 - $300 on Ebay), a 3 inch cat (Ive seen these by X-force for about $170 on Ebay) and a 3 inch system after the cat - you can go for a cheap chinese stainless system for about $300 all the way up to a all-out ridgy-didge system for over a grand....a pipe is a pipe.....as long as you have a decent muffler somewhere in your system to keep it below 91 db or the EPA and/or cop will give you grief. Keeping in mind that a 3 inch system would support up past 400rwkw, the only thing that you would need to change later on is the dump pipe if (and when) you decide to go to a high mount setup such as I have. the factory ECU is okay for the factory injectors, once you push past the limits of the factory injectors, then you would want to stick in a Walbro intank 255lt/hr pump and a adjustable fuel pressure regulator to up your base pressure to squeeze a bit more out of the factory injectors... However, the better option is, use the Walbro intank pump to feed a surge tank (rather than a boot mounted, one that you mount under the car is a better option in terms of avoiding defects) then use a Bosch 044 (capable to support 350rwkw) to slam the fuel into a set of 720cc.. THIS IS WHEN YOU NEED TO UPGRADE YOUR ECU to something like a PowerFC (extremely user friendly) or a Haltech (Every Tom, Dick & Harry knows how to tune one of these !!) to drive the new injectors as these are now outside the scope of the factory computer. There are a lot of morons with Skylines that make UNNECESSARY MODS to their cars and all it seem to achieve is score themselves defects galore.... ONLY make changes when its necessary to enhance the performance by removing the restrictions imposed by the factory parts..... AND go thru the small effort to get any mods engineered and you will have no hassles by the cocks....oops...cops. Happy Skylining....

Hey guys... Im currently in the process of installing a custom front facing high volume plenum on my RB25DET and already have a XF throttlebody chromed and rebuilt with the cable action modified to a 'pull-back' manner. Now, how do I go about with the TPS as the XF throttlebody open/rotates in opposite directions to the RB25DET unit ??? Ive had people say wire up the original FORD unit that came with the XF tb, other people suggesting using a RB30 TPS..... I know this is a common conversion on RB25 motors pushing up to 350+rwkw so HELP GUYS !!!! By the way, Im running a PowerFC if that'll help any.... Also, where in Sydney can I get a longer throttle cable made up for relocating the throttlebody to the front of the motor ? Any help is appreciated !!

Youre an idiot JAS-25T... PERIOD

let me tell you what C*CKS some cops can be.... I was in my stock-as-a-rock VL Commodore with my old man driving this morning going down JamesRuseDrive near Parramatta, we drove into a 4-cop-car RBT, just as we pulled up, the stupid F*CKHEAD of the cop confronts my old man and asks him 'Whats he carrying on about ?' referring to me... ALL I DID WAS SHOOK MY F*CKIN HEAD !!! So I stuck my head over and said to the f*ckhead of the cop that 'I was telling my father how unbelieveable it was that we always get picked up in the VL' - which is the truth.... Is that against the f**kin law ????? The cop walks away to RTB the car behind us and the other cop comes up to us and carries on about my attitude and respect ??!!?! F*CK HIM ! I said to the cop 'Respect has to be earnt, not thrust upon someone'.... I swear to God the f*ckhead wouldve arrested me for some pittiful reason if there wasnt two of us in the car.... MY POINT IS .... F*CKIN cops.... Sometimes it doesnt matter how much engineering you do on your car, if the f*ckin kunt of the pig wants to abuse his power and hide behind his bloody badge, there is no engineer's certificate thats gonna save your ass. And people wonder why we get physcos taking to the cops with AK47s !!

THE CAGE ARRIVES 16 DAYS AFTER I PAID $100 FOR AN 'EXPRESS' 3-DAY SHIPMENT THIS IS NOT EVEN A FU*KIN SAFETY21 CAGE. THIS IS AN EL-CHEAPO KTS CAGE THAT TOKAGE SELLS FOR $800. SAFETY21 / CUSCO CAGES HAS A LABEL ON EVERY PIECE. YOU ARE A FU*KIN JOKE. EVERY DOG HAS ITS DAY. PRICK.

I have sitting here a 1500km old PPG dogbox with modified transfer case off my mates written-off 750hp V-spec II R33 wreck that I brought off him, the donk is in my car, Im keeping the cogs as well but have no need for the transfer case. But I tell you what, I wouldnt do business with you if you paid me ten times what I want for it. I'd rather use it as a boat anchor than to sell it to you.

Why go thru all the BS to get a R32 ECU blah blah ???? DO IT PROPERLY and buy a PowerFC and you'll find it its only costs marginally more BUT the scope for further improvement is HUGE. If you get the standard Nissan ECU remapped, the next time you want to get a new mod, you'll have to go thru the whole BS process again, whereas if you installed a POWERFC, only small adjustments will be required. Seriously, if you want to drive a R33 with improved performance, then you've gotta be prepared to pay for it. You cant have it both ways. 'Skyline' and 'cheap' DOES NOT appear in the same sentence. So if you are not willing to pay for the performance, then go an buy a Holden Barina and drive that ! I dont understand how people expect to support this expensive habit by spending no money ??? You'll learn matie, the imports hobby is an exciting one, but comes at a cost. My advice is, dont take short cuts and do thing properly, or you'll find out in the long run that it'll end up costing you more. If you cant afford a PowerFC right now, dont do anything and save ! wait until you can afford to buy a FC and get it installed and tuned properly. I lost my licence for 3 years and I get it back next week, Ive spent the last 3 years and almost $40,000 buying parts, I have an entire bedroom full of brand new Japanese performance parts in boxes stacked up to the ceilng. During this time, I have also built a RB25/30 hybrid engine with forged internals ready to run-in and rocknroll. This is just an example of doing it properly, my point is, not many people has the money to go all out like this in one hit, so you save up until you can, or do what I did, buy and collect parts until you can take the car to that next stage. Have fun.

Hi guys, I've installed a set of brand new 660cc side-feed injectors on my RB25DET (series 2 1997 R33) using a POWER FC with a Bosch 044 external setup. Now, I am wondering what the ideal base fuel pressure to have the adjustable fuel pressure regulator set at ? I will be running at a max boost level of about 18 - 20 psi. Also, Im using the factory intank pump to feed the 2 litre surge tank, then the single Bosch 044 as the main pump to the fuel rail. Now, what would be the ideal sized fuel line from the 044 to the rail ? AN -6 or AN -8 ? Any help is appreciated.

I thought you need to sell this to get an Andra cage ? now you have no car to put a cage into ?

I think it would be a lot easier just to use the factory pump to supply a surge tank and use the 044 to feed fuel pressure to the injectors..... no blood, no bullsh*t, just have to get a approproate shaped surge tank to fit under the car so its all legal and defect-free.

Not a constructive comment at all.

What I did with my RB25/30 was overbore the cylinders and sleeves pressed in, then torque-plate hone the cylinders and also o-ring both the block and head faces. That shits all over the 2JZ in terms of strength as well. My engine builder recommanded sleeving because it turns out way stronger than using the N1 or the GT blocks, it also gives me the option of punchin them out and installing sleeves with a different bore size if the need arises. Match that to the forged components on the bottom end along with the extrude honing performed to the head and inlet manifold, this is one invincible donk.

Hi, I built a RB25/30 with a solid lifter conversion. I intend to replace the RB25DET rocker/plug/camgear covers with RB26DET items. I already have the rocker covers but I still need the sparkplug cover (that goes between the rocker covers in the middle), the front cam gear cover (with the RB26 logo) & also the backing plate that sit between the cam gears and the head. If you can help, give me a yell at [email protected] Kind regards

The RB26 clear cam gear cover WILL NOT fit the RB25 because the RB25 has the variable timing buldge in the front of the inlet cam. However, there are clear covers available for the RB25, you'll find it if you look hard enough - hint, look at some overseas site, perhaps Ebay in the USA or Yahoo in Japan. I dont think there would be any problems with installing the clear timing cover in terms of the law. Also, in regards to your pod cover, all you needed to keep it legal is to install some form of a shield or a 'box' with a duct feeding fresh air into it. Hope that helps.

The tuner mustnt know what he's doing. With that sized injectors, it's got enough to pust past 250rwkw.... maybe even 285rwkw. Slap a Haltech E11V2 or even just a PowerFC in there and do some rippin....