smok74

Try getting the Ball bearing version of the RB25det turbo from the series II R33 as Nissan upgraded to BB turboes in both series II's of the R33 and the S14.

Good for up to around 15psi

CO2 would be good for external cooling of the inlet charge, i.e the CO2 does not come in direct contact with the inlet charge. It is indeed NOS purge on that R34 in 2F2F but there is also CO2 intercooler spray cooling systems available on the market. The engineering company ARE has developed a special intercooler that holds a quantity of dry ice (frozen CO2) that is used to cool the charge. Im sure there are many other ways to enhance the effectiveness of an intercooler and I'm sure we will be seeing these on the market in the not too distant future.

Hang on a sec, if C16 is so called 'race fuel', what on Earth is AvGas that I get from Hoxton Park air port then?

Do a burnout

1.5mm

R33 SER II 5 speed can handle well over 300rwkw.

Wham Bam.

Well said.

Just my 1/2 cent worth, does anyone remember the blue RB26DETT R32 that they built in HIGH OCTANE 3 & 4, well, it was a R32 GTS4 they picked up from the car yard, but when they dynoed it, it was dynoed at only the rear wheels ( I remember seeing the front wheels being stationary on the dyno ) ......so whats the go there? Been wondering for a while about that.

Errr, I've been thinking about ways of wiring up some neons for the under carriage. The most simple way is to hook up a fused lead from ya ciggie outlet in ya fuse box (this way, u can still use ya ciggie lighter), run that to some mirco switches (pick up from Tandy) in parallel, you can have one switch per light or one switch for all the lights, it all depends on how fancy u want it. just make sure they are all earthed properly otherwise you'll end up with a smoke show and not a light show. One thing, by using the ciggie lighter outlet, you will not be able to have the neons on when the car is not on (reds) but if you take a fused lead from the battery, you can have the neons on independent of the car being on or not.

Chrisgero, this happened to me too, but what actually happened was the vac line from the boost controller to the actulator wasnt tightened properly and popped off when I was givin it, the bitch peaked somewhere around 20 - 25 psi..... mine too made a huge-ass 'POP' as if the turbo had exploded, I freaked right out.

I too blocked off the top vac line from the solenoid to the Tee-piece. A lot of people says that this has no effect on performance but I think this should be looked at as the solenoid is obviously hooked up to the ecu, and by eliminating this device, would it effect the way the ecu makes it's calculations? Ive noticed my '97 serII is drinking a bit more after I blocked off this line. The car will obviously still run, but what I'm really concerned with is if the engine is gonna run leaner/richer......i.e does this boost solenoid effect the way the ecu deliver the messages to the fuel system.....I doubt this solenoid is an independent device and it could be associated with the rest of the system in some way, would it alter the other parameters by turning it off?

With over 15 years experience in electronics, I have never heard of a Ground/Earth wire in any type of circuit being white ?! ALL earth wires/leads are BLACK..... where's the common sense ppls ??

Dont worry guys, with our current import laws, for every 'line thats written off, they bring in another 100 from Japan so whats the big deal? Lets hope our cars dont end up like those Shit-ba-rus out there....... too f$ckin many of 'em...... By the way, I bet it was his attitude or his P-plates that wrote it off. ;P

KANGAROO VALLEY south of Syd, we had my mates '31 running thru there on 12 psi at the time......B E A U T I F U L !

SO this means I can show up in my 8000000rwkw quad turbo, quad S/C V12 VW Beetle?? WICKED DUDES !!! I'm in !

By the way guys, for those that have absolutly nil ideas about the concept of 'flow', air (gases) travels through pipes in a circular motion, kinda like a screw, so obviously the ideal path of the pipe is a straight line. IE the less kinks the better, if a 'kink' is a must then the closer to 180 degrees the better. Anyone wants to argue then feel free, they can argue with the 2nd yr Aeronautical Engineering text book that I got this from.

Okay guys, look at these pics, now ask yourselves would you want you engine bay to look like this (above) or have bloody pipes everywhere? anyways, Unique's kit suits the factory throttle body but also comes with a flange that allows TBs up to 80mm.

If anyone did actually read my entry, I DID suggest an aftermarket kit, getting the TB relocated was just an option that my mate did to his R31. either way, at the end of the day, why take the long way when u can get there the short way? Personally, Unique Autosports' (CASTLE HILL SYDNEY) inlet/FMIC kit which just came out this month is what I'm interested in.

Mates R31 with RB30ET, T3/T4 Hybrid, FMIC, modified inlet with throttle body relocated to the 'forwards' position, R32 5 speed, etc produces 170rwkw. He's got a RB25DET head and a T04E ready to go in, estimated to produce 230+ rwkw. The RB30 and RB25 are physically the same block, all you really have to watch is the sump as the RB25 obviously comes with a sump to fit the Skyline so you'll have to use the RB30 sump that came with the VL. I have previously seen RB26DETT fitted to VLs and what they had to do was to make a minor modification to the sump and the oil pick-up for clearance. Good luck with this conversion as I too am interested in this mod for my VL. I want to put the RB25DET from my series II R33 into my VL and then get a RB26DETT for the '33. A bit of swapping around but it's all worth it. Imagine, a VL with a RB25 and a R33 GTST with a RB26 ! I'll let you guys know the results.

If anyone in Sydney is interested in this throttle body relocation mod, email me at [email protected] and I'll find out the name and address of the engineer where my mate (with the R31/RB30ET) had his done. Believe me, it's well worth it, he went from 171rwkw - 12psi to 220rwkw - 16psi with just $1700 ! I think it's the cheapest 50rwkw money can buy.

Personally, I'd piss on the idea of the 120 degree pipe and have the throttle body relocated. Ask yourself this, she's ya pride n joy, WHY F*CKIN HALF BAKE IT?

The other way is to go to Unique Autosports and check out their aftermarket inlet manifold/ FMIC package for the '33. It replaces the inlet manifold with an aftermarket version and relocates the throttle body and has it facing forwards, this way, only a short piece of piping is required between the FMIC and the throttle body on the drivers side. A mate of mine has a RB30ET in a R31, The original inlet is similar to the RB25DET with the throttle body facing across the top of the rocker cover, when he got his FMIC, the engineer that installed it hacked up his inlet and had the throttle body moved to the forwards position, the actual manifold looks like it was cut up into many pieces and re-welded together. Tell you what tho, the aluminium welding was top class and it works beautifully - 220rwkw / 16psi with a RB30 ! cant wait until he gets his new RB25 head on there...... Anyways, I'm in the same boat at the moment deciding how far I wanna take this mod, I think the first thing you have to decide is if you want to relocate the throttle body, if so, either get a aftermarket inlet manifold (anywhere from $1500 to $2500 ?) or have your existing one modified by someone that understands the concept of 'flow' and also aluminium welding. Otherwise a simple Blitz kit should do the job. Remember this, it cost my friend $1700 for the whole conversion which includes the FMIC, piping, mod to his inlet and also a Z32 AFM plus installation, compare that to the same price for the Blitz kit which DOES NOT include install.

Hey guys, I've got a question regarding the installation of a boost controller into a SER II R33 GTST. Firstly, I've picked up a simple bleed-valve-type controller from Turbosmart, I'm using this until I get a digital unit in a month or two. Now, what I need to know is, from the factory, there's a tee-piece in between the vacuum source and the turbo actulator, this tee is branched off to a solnoid which bleeds back to the inlet. The question is, if I installed the Turbosmart bleed valve in the place of this Tee-piece (with the arrow pointing towards the actulator), do I simply block off the vacuum line running to the Solnoid? would it effect the overall performance of the car by doing this? I noticed there are wires coming from this solnoid so would it effect the way the ECU process imformation by disabling this particular parameter? Or should I disconnect the wires running to this solnoid altogether? Cheers guys, any help with this is highly appreciated. My email is [email protected]