tylink720

I only put in a 255. Yeah I thought it was strange too. I had seen lots of posts on here saying the stock reg was good for mild pump upgrades. Possibly the oem fpr was clapped the entire time and I only checked fuel pressure after installing a new pump

When I did my walbro swap, my base fuel pressure increased by about 10psi, which could affect fueling a bit. I had to get an aftermarket fpr bring it back to normal pressures

Lol I hope to take it out this weekend and rip it around. I’m curious to see how far off my fuel map is now that I’m running 10psi less base pressure. I do need to get a pressure sensor next season to keep an eye on it.

FIXED I installed the new fpr and turned it down to 43 psi. Idles nicely at 38ish psi now with the vacuum line attached. thanks for the help!

Stock rail but 1000cc Bosch injectors. Is there a reason for Tomei being junk? Seems like the easiest option since it has fittings and a mount already included

Any current recs for a good budget reg? I don’t want to buy some cheap eBay stuff, but also don’t want to drop $500 on just a regulator. I’ve seen some for about $140-$170 like Tomei, P2M, NRG, AEM, ect

Yep lol, half the fun is working on these piles. My brother has a newer BMW and it’s super quick and reliable

Alright, I've started looking for an aftermarket reg. This cars been a bottomless pit so far, and I haven't even started the proper power mods yet lol. thanks

Yep stock reg. Ill look into a new reg, just seems strange that it drops the pressure fine when I remove the return line. Also seen posts on here saying the stock reg is good for mild pump upgrades. It is 25 years old I guess

I don’t think it’s the FPR as I’ve run a short hose into a bottle straight off the reg, and the pressure drops down. Maybe a new reg is a good idea anyway though. I will try doing what you said and test down the line. Although the only spot I can measure is between the hard line and tank, but it’s cramped as in there. I’ll have to lower the tank to get in there. Yep I bypassed the dampener on the fuel return line too but didn’t help. I still have the dampener on the feed. Maybe I’ll test bypassing that one too as I put the gauge before it.

I've drilled out the siphon pump to a little larger than stock, I think I used a 5/16 bit. Put it back together and still had the 50psi fuel pressure. Took it apart again and ended up breaking one of the fittings on my fuel hat which sucked, but luckily I was able to get a new one within a week. Fit the new hat, and tested the pressure with the siphon pump removed so it just pumps straight back into the tank, still 50psi. I have to assume now it's my return line that's the restriction. I was hoping it would be easy to replace the rear fuel lines that connect to the tank, but it looks like I'd have to lower or drop the tank which looks like a crap job. I will try using an air compressor first to blast out the return line and see if it does anything

Sounds good, I’ll give this a try. Thanks for the help

Makes sense, I was thinking it had to be that thing. I will try modifying it first and see if I can get it to work. Is it drilling out the fittings on the hat, or drilling out the actual siphon pump?

Hey, is there a known restriction in the R34 GTT fuel return? I tested my fuel pressure with a Walbro 255, and have 52 psi at idle, with the regulator vacuum line on and off. The only time I get 43 psi is if I fully disconnect the return line off the regulator and let it flow out into a bottle, so it seems to be something after the reg causing it. I've disconnected both ends of the return line and I can blow through it. I went under the car and don't see any dents or kinks in the hard lines. I blew air into the return port of the fuel hat and it's harder to blow through, but I'm guessing that's because of that tank transfer valve attached to it. I’ve replaced the return lines from the reg to the hard lines as well Any ideas? Thanks

Just finished doing this on with my GTT with a Haltech, I ran a new shielded wire to Signal Ground, and used the oem wire for the other side of the plug

Mine started doing that buzzing and then started idling terribly shortly after, it seems to be shot. Maybe try cleaning it? I did clean mine but it didn’t help. Currently just running a block off plate until I figure out an alternative to the oem valve

Update: I put the ISR R33 bellmouth downpipe in on the weekend and it does fit. Obviously it doesn't bolt right up to the catback due to the different length, but it squeezes in onto the turbo side

The starting issue seems to be fixed due to replacing that fuse. I also emailed NZ Wiring and he gave me some tips and I have the car working very well now. Had to lower my trigger arming voltages a lot compared to the numbers in the install instructions. Thanks for the help! I do get a trigger error once every couple of drives. It seems to happen when I press in the clutch during a lower rpm decel, or when letting out the clutch at a low rpms. It will happen once, then wont come up again for the rest of the drive or even multiple drives after. Strange

Another update for this. I put the NZ Wiring trigger kit on and it was doing the same thing. Scoped the signals and was getting perfect readings off of it. Ended up going through all of my fuses again and found one had blown, one of these ENG CONT fuses. Replaced it and the last 3 starts have been flawless. I'm hoping that this is finally the fix for it! Side note, what do these 2 fuses actually do? I'm wondering how the car was even able to run if it was blown?

I will try this as well thanks. I've ordered up the NZ Wiring kit so hopefully that will be here soon too

Update on this: I got the car sketchily started and made it home now. I had to add 40 degrees to the TDC Angle setting in the Haltech and then it barely started but idled like crap. Put the timing light on it and sure enough the timing was out by about the 40 degrees. I put the same number I had before back in, 115, and its back to proper timing and idled fine. Somethings off when its cranking it seems. I'm planning on just buying the trigger kit now

Hey thanks for the reply. Yep I've been looking at some trigger kits so I might just have to take the plunge and buy one. The battery seems to be good, and I've also tried starting while being jumped by another running car, with no luck. I will see if I can find the those voltage settings in the ECU and give it a go.

Hey, I'm having some starting issues with my rb25det neo. Its in a pretty much stock R34 GTT with an Elite 2000. It will just crank and not start, but sometimes will fire right up. I'm wondering if its my CAS that is the issue, but once it does start, it seems to run great. It started this year after the Haltech install. Never had an issue before, and it worked perfectly for a week after installing the haltech too. The first time it happened, I could smell unburnt fuel, so I pulled the fuel pump fuse and it started up, so I thought it was just flooded. Now that doesn't work. I put the timing light on it again, and the crank timing marks were nowhere to be found. Took the cas off thinking the key snapped, but it was fine. Put it back on and it started, and I checked the timing again and it was lined back up. Its almost like the ecu was seeing the timing 180 degrees out somehow. This has happened multiple times now, including this morning. Some things I've tried: I've taken out each coilpack and I get spark from all of them while turning my cas, and I hear the injectors clicking too. I've synched my timing with the ecu each time. I've cleaned the cas with sensor cleaner. I've logged the ecu while cranking and it's getting signal from the cas. I've looked over some wiring and can't see frays or anything. Double checked my trigger settings, and they are the same as the original base map I'm nervous to drive around now as it seems to be random when it wants to start. And it seems strange that once it actually starts, it runs great. Any ideas? I don't know anyone with a confirmed working cas otherwise I'd try swapping to see it it helped.

Right in the middle lol, Manitoba

We've gotten clapped with snow this winter, so Ill likely only be taking it out in May