YBSLO4

Is it a mechanical bleed valve or electronic boost controller? If it is a bleed valve then definately be bloody careful. Nissan turbo seals are only rated with a maximum pressure of 14psi before they do the turbo exhaust seal. Not to mention they have a plastic impeller fan :S Problem with boostin gon a stock cooler is the pressure loss in the stock cooler on skylines is not that good so if you are running 13.5psi at the manifold then more than likely your turbo is pushing about 16psi or even more depending on amospheric pressure and ambient temperature outside to actually make that kinda boost at the manifold. I suggest ya get a new cooler before ya go passed 10psi. If ya not gunna run a cooler then turn it down a tad. Also depends on how heavy ya foot is as to how long it will last. BTW what mod's u got? cos with that kinda boost and a UniChip ya should be pushing more than that with light mod's dude... my mate on his is running same as me, exhaust filter bit a boost and fuel pressure reg and is pushing 187 at the wheels untuned? (i havn't dynoed mine yet).

thast crap dude, my mate has run 22psi through his and din't have any problems.

Hye dude, there is one above the pedals on teh right hand side of engine bay about half way up... its hard to find but i run everything though here for alarm, boost controller etc... go under ya pedals searh up there to the right hand side and peel the carpet back a little and there is a gromet bout 20c piece in size.

I got SuRReaL Industries on my front window and down my bonnet in metalflake sticker, i have a rather large A`Pexi sticker on back windon... Nismo, Trust, A`Pexi etc down doors, Punkt Designs up whole back of car. Oh and like '33Spec2' a homo new edition Canary on the front window Tightasses lol

Give ya 80 bucks for the drivers side electeric window regulator and assembly...? You have PM.

I have one 15" sub in my boot in a vented box... to get maximum sound outa it it needs around a 100ltr box which fills my boot completely not a skeric of room left... the problem with R33's is the shape of the boot and the opening from the fron tof the boot to the top seal is very short distance so its hard to get a box in there. Other problem is its hard to make a box where the sub faces towards the boot which is what u want becuase of this limited space. I am in the process however of workin gout how i can fit another 15 in there, i'll let ya kno when i done it how it goes

i kno dude but its cost me too much to drive it for a week to sell it for less with the money i have put in it. I know ya can find others out there a lot cheaper privately, but almost guranateed to have the clock wound back. I went to 4 importers last week n the cheapest i could find was 21,990 bog stock for an auto 93 model that looked shit and had 102km's on the clock, but it looked lagit. So i figure if i got a 95 with lagit 75km's and with the money i spent on it in the last two months then it seems like a good buy to me, considering its done 1,700km's in 3 months in australia?

The car is black in immaculate condition, the interior is basically brand new, only had one owner overseas who never had anyone in the back seats, i am selling the car regretfully after only driving it for week due to certain personal reasons, i am askin $24,000 for it, and i am actually losing on this bad, as i paid this for the car itself with nuthing on it only 2 months ago. It can be seen at www.angelfire.com/co3/thegrub1/indexYBSLO4.html . I am in Melbourne and can be contacted on 0402488879 or PM/Email me at [email protected]. It might sound a bit more than other R33's round but its for a reason, it is neat as hell and has cos tme much much more. Its a very genuine car, one of the neatest and cleanest interiors i have seen on an import. It is a grade 4.5 car when imported. All mod's have been made in the last two months by me. Runs extremely well, sounds great, and has a very neat sound system to go with it. I am not selling it for any other reason but as i said personal reasons, and is why i really don't want to get rid of it. It has the following mods, as as u can see they are worth a fair few of my hard earnt $$$ which i am losing out on. The price is firm i can't go any cheaper, and overall there isn't too many like this for this kinda money, considering the car was priced at $24,900 only 2 months ago with nothing on it!! Has 8 months reg. -17" TJM Gradu rims, wrapped in 215/225/45/R17 rubber -Lowered springs -3" Fujitsubo LegaliseR cat back exhaust system -New A`Pexi Super AFC II -K&N High power intake -Turbosmart single stage gated boost controller, with in cabin high/low boost switch on 7/10.5psi settings -HKS turbo timer -Autometer Ultra-lite Sport pillar mounted Boost and electronic Air/Fuel gauges -Custom aluminium switch panel dash insert -Razo gearknob and pedals -Pioneer head unit, Pioneer Carrozzeria 6" splits and rear 6*9" speakers, 15" subwoofer in custom boot with 450wRMS sub amp -Nismo Badged

Hypertech are the aussie distributors for A`Pexi.

There was a M-spec and a non M-spec dude...

Farrrrrrrrrrk 740*360 is huge!! What kinda power you pushin?

I too have a 95 GTS-t and my mate has one too but he has the wiper... we later found out that what he thought his was an M-spec it wasn't and had the wiper, mine was the M-spec and i don't have it. We are are pretty sure cos hte M-spec was the sport model that it didn't come with a rear wiper, or it must have simply been an option, but from what i have seen am genuine M-specs don't have it on the series I R33.

I removed the resonator from my car not long ago. Makes the car sound a little louder but i notice more backfiring when backing off the throttle every now n then. Does make it sound neater tho, but not hugely noticeable... If you want it to be loud run a 3" system no resonator into a straight through muffler, then it will houl.

Well i am going to get my turbo high flowed to t03/4 spec, n i'm hoping for around 240-50rwkw in the end with turbo, power fc and fuel upgrade. The thing i thought was good about this cooler though was that it is long but not tall therefore it will have a good pressure drop because it isn't traveling verticaly as far and is traveling straighter, plus bar and plate sounds pretty good. The only option i can go is 600*300*90 which works out the same anyway roughly because for the rise in height i lose the length, so doesn't make much difference eh as aposed to 670*245? Most coolers i look at no matter the manufacturer its about 600*300 as the standard cooler core size. In particular to help explain i am looking at the hyperflow s15 cooler and custom fitting it to my skyline, as they have a very neat cooler. check it out at http://www.hyperflow.com.au n check the s15 cooler to see what i mean. L8ters, J.

K now that i have read a few of the size cores you guys are running... does 670*245*90 bar and plate sound like it will fit??

Hey peoples, Just wondering what size cooler cores they are using with what mod's aswell? I am about to buy a cooler, and i am just wondering what most guys are running size wise for a front mount?

You can buy impul stuff from takakaira.com but dun think they have a kit. The kits are very subtle anyway, look very standard.

Just think about how the compression works in a cylinder... if you run rich you are gettin gmore fuel into the cylinder which means there is less amount of compression going on beause there is less volume of air to compress (fuel doesn't compress). The less you have the more air there is to compress... the more compression, the harder it combusts and the more power ya get. Make sense?

BOV vents intake pressure in order to gain better throttle response and stop compressor surge (air flowing backwards when the throtle door shuts back innto the turbo) damageing the turbine fan's. A Wastegate's main function is to regulate exhaust pressure to the turbo and consequently how much boost is generated. As for the choice of a modded or stock car, go for the stock car every time. At least if you have a stock car there is a lesser chance of the car being driven hard... after all who modifies a car to drive it slower? If ya can tho try and get something in great condition that has say jsut and exhaust and air filter, or some rims and an exhaust to save the couple of grand straight up. Anything modifed has definately been driven more than ya average car.

RAZO race aluminium gearknob.

Nissan turbo seals on teh exhaust side are only rated to 14psi from the factory correct... eh? The problem associated with a manual bleed valve is that they do spike like you are all saying, however the problem does lie within a stock cooler, where the pressure loss between the turbo and what reaches the intake manifold is destroyde dby the shitty flow and efficiency of the stock coolers. Most guys who are running around 10-12 at the boost gauge are actually pumping about 15psi or more out of the turbo because the turbo needs to push that much to make the 10-12psi at the intake cos the cooler looses so much. Definately if you are gonna do the main mod's most people do i.e. intake, exhaust, boost etc. Invest in a cooler and not only get cooler air and make more power but save your turbo from doing more work than it needs to and than it can take. After all if they are rated at 14 adn you have to put the turbo through 15psi to make 10-12psi then why bother risking it? Not to mention spiking which can be +-2psi on a manual bleed valve which then throws teh turbo way out of both its efficiency range and safety range.

Nissan turbo seals on teh exhaust side are only rated to 14psi from the factory correct... eh? The problem associated with a manual bleed valve is that they do spike like you are all saying, however the problem does lie within a stock cooler, where the pressure loss between the turbo and what reaches the intake manifold is destroyde dby the shitty flow and efficiency of the stock coolers. Most guys who are running around 10-12 at the boost gauge are actually pumping about 15psi or more out of the turbo because the turbo needs to push that much to make the 10-12psi at the intake cos the cooler looses so much. Definately if you are gonna do the main mod's most people do i.e. intake, exhaust, boost etc. Invest in a cooler and not only get cooler air and make more power but save your turbo from doing more work than it needs to and than it can take. After all if they are rated at 14 adn you have to put the turbo through 15psi to make 10-12psi then why bother risking it?

Colors are: Green = RPM Purple = Kock sensor Grey = Throttle White = Air Flow/pressure- INPUT Yellow = Air Flow/pressure- OUTPUT Black/Brown = Ground Red = IG power Blue = For twing turbo set ups, uses the yellow " Y " shaped connecter to intercept the second air flow signal. Orange/Pink = ??????

Hey dude, i also have an AFC-2... your in luck aswell... i spent hours friggen translating the colors of the wires to match the diagram in the manual... most of the wires are the same colors and have same jobs as the previous SAFC when translated they are... Red = IG power Green = RPM signal Brown = Ground Black = Ground Grey = Throttle Purple = Knock sensor? Blue = Used for twin turbo set ups with the extra yellow "Y" shaped wire provided, where there is two AFM signals that must be intercepted Yelow = Air flow/Pressure signal OUTPUT White = Air flow/Pressure signal INPUT *Orange = Sustitute Air flow/Pressure signal *Pink = Sustitute Air flow/Pressure signal ****Not sure what these are used for**** (possibly non turbo set up? Not sure. K now to use these colors... from left to right on the N4a R33 GTS-t ECU diagram i have narried it down to: 1) Green 2) Purple (check ECU for empty pin cos it can be either of the two pins 3) Air flow wires (white and yellow) 4) Grey 5) Red 6) Ground (grey and black) Only thing i can't work out is what the pink & orange wires are for... i know the blue is used for twin turbo set ups where there is two air flow/pressure signals due to dual air flow meters, but the orange and pink wires don't seem to come up... i think they are used for non turbo aplications maybe? Also the only thing i have not worked out is why there is two possible wiring diagrams on pages 8 & 9 of the wiring book. The one on page 9 uses the pink and orange wires as the air flow intercept wires where as the diagram on page 8 uses the white and yellow configeration. Not sure why there would be two? Let me know how u go.

I bought mine through TakaKaira.com cos they have the New AFC II for the same price as the old one... it cost me about AUS$610 to get it roughly... still hasn't arrived here yet, but i aint in a hurry, spose it aint to bad though cos its coming from japan and i got it shipped on the first day of release from A`Pexi. SO i am expecting it next week sometime for sure. The best bit about the new AFC II is that it has two savable fuel curves, and can be tuned at 200RPM increments instead of 500. So for those who had problems with dual stage boost controllers and there AFC's then no need to worry no more I recomen takakaira to get it mate they were so good, and so quick to process the order and ship the parcel. Thnx, j.