InterCooL

sold to the man above

typical jap coilover, quite firm. i think my brother had a car (mirage) with stock shocks and lowered springs, i believe these coilovers ride much better than his setup. although my friends r34 with $3000 hks coilovers did feel nicer...

I don't know their spring rate nor how many km's they've travelled as i bought them 2nd hand. apparently they had been sitting on a long term project r33 in a garage for a long time i'm selling as i'm returning my car to stock. if you have stock suspension i'll knock $50 off. i'll be listing some other parts in the near future too, fmic, pod etc they were on a series 1, i have no idea if series 1 / 2 are compatible, can't imagine that the suspension setup would have change *that* much

•FOR SALE: R33 coilovers ************************ •Location: sydney, taren point •Item & Condition: Tein HR Coilovers for R33 gtst. no leaks. boots in perfect condition. my gtst felt MUCH better at the track with these in, otherwise my car would understeer. These units are height adjustable •Price and price conditions: $700 •Contact Details: PM me here, i'm on everyday •Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: i COULD post these but it would cost somewhere between $50-100 •Pictures:

kmart was paying for all mine and swanny180's rides for many years, so we sorta just put that as a sig? thankfully i've moved on. when will swanny???

its hard to know what to do when you see things like this; "Corrosion, formed by the presence of liquid around the plug and coil pack, is one of the greatest electrical resistors known to mankind, providing enough of a blockage to the voltage transfer process to keep the spark plug from firing correctly. Once the whole shooting match has been dried out, there is also the ever-present threat of corrosion in the form of white chalky powerd that once more will inhibit the spark plug firing... Always run your centre cover too, as the myths started about coil packs overheating and shutting down are absolute rubbish." the article contained a test dummy ca18det engine with aftermarket coil packs which produced all over less power and could not even rev out without misfiring (where the standard ones worked fine). i thought it would be applicable as its another similar aged import nissan engine. but i really have no idea, i havent run a center cover for 18+ months and was a bit concerned i was ignoring the maintennace of my car?

hey guys was reading through a hot 4's magazine where it said that we should maintain our coilpacks so they don't fail on us. "Removal and inspection is the best bet, with frequent lubrication of the silicone seals that live between the coil and spark plug being the best way of stopping moisture ingress" can someone clarify where lubrication is meant to occur? i'm afraid i will put lubrication which will inhibit the spark travelling down to the plug here's a pic if someone wants to draw on it

why would modifying the cat converter have much to do with the 02 sensor? the cat is a good meter downstream of the 02 (on rb2det anyway)

sold. cant edit ?

•FOR SALE: N12 pulsar + E15ET engine / loom / afm / (new) timing belt •Location: sydney •Item & Condition: non turbo n12 pulsar, was a project with my friend and I, and we ended up gathering bits n pieces but never worked on it car: currently has e15s engine (manual). runs great, even tread left on rubber (flat battery). drivers door lock doesnt unlock. rego has run out, but it could be re-registered if someone wants to. e15et turbo engine is in 2 peices, bottom / top end. has intake / exhaust manifold, no turbo ecu + loom + afm hasnt been taken out of the box it was bought in timing belt is brand new i'll even through in my sr20 fuel pump that i was going to use •Price and price conditions: $500 •Extra Info: i won't be parting for bits just yet. maybe later. •Contact Details: PM me on here. •Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: pickup •Pictures:

harness is something that allows you to literally 'plug' the emanage / safc into your car. without this, you have to manually splice a million wires into your ecu's wiring. this may or may not involve headaches. it did for me on my turbo starlet as there was little info about the wiring available, and there was no slack in the ecu wiring and it was right on the transmission hump and firewall emanage has ability to tune fuel and ignition timing, you just need the ignition timing harness (this is autmoatically includedif you purchase the wire in harness for your car). it uses a very user friendly tuning program. i've had 2 emanages tuned by tuners who had never touched an emanage before, one actually tried to talk me out of it, but then decided he loved it and has since then been reccomending it to others. the other tuner loved it too. i'm unsure if the safc2 does ignition timing too?

7750 is not over revving?

isn't dr drift based in melbourne?

have you tried superpro?

sold.

different did you do this to minimise intercooler piping? was there a big difference in response due to it? just curious edit: oh just realised that its not complete yet. tbh i didnt notice a massive difference in lag when i have gone from smic or tmic to fmic. a lot of extra piping but i doubt there would be much difference in laptimes due to response

hey guys dont know if this is the right sub-forum place to post in but i'd love some idea's if you guys have any i got a problem with my gf's camry. its about a 1997 v6 auto model drove it to the airport fine. parked it, then went to start it 30mins later and the engine aint running right. its giving vibrations through the steering wheel + whole car and idles low. it is quite noticeable as you drive off that, the car will somewhat shudder. it seems to have lost a lot of power, but still ran well enough to leave the airport and get home. i would have thought it is a misfire on a cylinder, however the exhaust note is exactly the same. i guess it still could be a misfire though. i am going to pull out the spark plugs tomorrow and see if a cylinder has shut down. but does anyone else have any ideas? cheers

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hey guys i'm after an r33 hicas ecu its located underneath the parcel shelf, access via the boot. it has to have the numbers; 2850519U15 on it (there are a lot of different ones around) i've seen them sell for around $30 mark so that's what i'm prepared to pay (+postage if need be) will pick up in sydney from anyone cheers

great my car actually DOES have the 7.5" rims on it but the placard doesnt... thanks for the answers boys

z32 300zx rims look like these guys; mine look like normal r33 rims as the first pic the difference is subtle but is there

yes here is a pic of my fronts, note how they sit flush up against the hub; here is a pic of my rears, notice the gap between the hub and the wheel; you can also visually see how the same sized tires buldge over the fronts but not the rears also the tire shop pointed all this out to me lol. i never realised it until they showed me

how much did they set you back?

hey guys as far as i know, my wheels are bone stock, they look just like this (all 4); however my rears are 7.5" wide ,the fronts are only 6.5". everyone i know with stock r33 wheels have 6.5" at all 4's so i'm just wondering why are my rears slightly wider? was it a factory option? or did someone swap rims with another type of nissan?