InterCooL

consider a remap by toshi. he resides in sydney, search / pm him, should only be a few hundred

mine only makes the noise if i have the timing belt cover on. i believe it has something to do with the fact that the timing belt must rub on it

mine has a gates and also has the annoying whine at idle its just an unhealthy sound coming from the front of the engine. quite loud when you have your head in the engine bay. you don't notice it too much when you're actually in the cabin, and never when you're moving but its never good if you're trying to sell your car and it's making strange noises from the engine...

you get what you pay for

and other sub 2.0L engines, charade / swift / starlet cheap as chips and can flow 150-200kw without too much drama but deff not worth the money of a custom exhaust manifold or adapter / cooler + exhaust plumbing modifications for a skyline

no but let me use my ms paint skills to demonstrate and it basically is 100% vertical

no mine is still going (less than 5000km's old) but every 2nd person out there say there's was working one day and just stops the next. i don't even know if i got warrantee on mine. i did have an immense amount of problem trying to calibrate and update it, and this problem still exists. i just worked around it. i don't know if i should have gone LM1, PLX, or WB02 now. but i definitely wouldnt chose the LC1

regarding installation places, make sure you have it the way the manual says on my lc1 they are anal about not letting moisture pool on the sensor, so mine is mounted upright in the "12 oclock position" i was told that the WB02 products had unnecessary lag and that's why i chose to go innovate. however i really shouldn't have got the LC1 now that i know everyones experience's with them...

this looks great, i've never heard of this free consult software i only know of PLMS and its $200 (laptop) how do you suggest we make the required cable as shown here? http://www.ecutalk.com/diyconsult/

shine a light down the spark plug hole after you have tried starting it / running it. it should be wet with fuel (if it isn't firing). if it's not wet, then swap it with a known working injector. if the problem stays with no. 6, then you'd have to check the wiring? :S

aka paris hilton syndrome rich and retard fmic's will do this

i'm not after someone to tell me how much timing my engine will take. some people have very definate opinions on MBT and knock, EG, some say that on an NA engine you will 100% hit MBT 2-5degrees before knock. others say that on any turbo engine you will never reach MBT before knock. others says that on engines such as CA18DET's you have something like 10degrees of headroom after MBT before the onset of knock i thought there may be a general rule regarding rb25det's

will it also share the price of motec and autronic?

hey guys this question is aimed at those who have done a bit of rb25det tuning; for a stock turbo setup, does MBT (Minimum [spark advance for] Best Timing / Maximum Best Torque) occur before knock? or will an rb25det stock turbo knock before it reaches MBT? cheers

also i think there's a rb25det for sale in the classified section for around the $750 , complete motor. it's your 'other end of the spectrum' cheapo fix when my bearings went on my sr20, i hunted around for a pre-built forged bottom end and got one shipped from interstate. cost me $2800, supported 350rwkw+. make some calls to some tuners you know or some local performance shops and see if they have any built rb25 / rb30 bottom ends you could buy

all you have to do is plug in the harness'. and mount them somewhere... so yes

i had two turbotech's, both of them fell apart like that whilst in the engine bay (even tho i tightened it down with the little nut) the ball goes in first. then the spring but wait for someone else to confirm this

if you can save $1k per month, then don't upgrade to an rb25 turbo. wait a while and get something brand new and good. guess you'll have to do your own research for what turbo will meet your demands, how much power, how much lag and how much fiddlying around

is it possible to take off the rubber grommet on the box and insert an air powered grease gun tube and wallop it onto the fork? my mechanic did that for my pivot joint. and still needed 3 hands to do it. very awkward

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ul-t176944.html i've pulled out both rb20 and 25 ecu's. they look like they are a plug in matter. but will need a tune to run...

i'm sure you can find in the power upgrade thread someone running a large turbo at 12-14 psi making bucket loads more power than people running stock turbos at 12-14psi on the rb20det does your buget of $1500 include installation, oil / water line modifications, exhaust and / or intercooler pipe modifications? do you have the stock manifold? $1500 will be enough to get a turbo, but not enough for a drive in / out conversion. even a gcg high flow requires some sort of oil line modifications, don't they? and as r31nismoid said, do not touch a 2540.

try stating this in power output terms, as different pressure's on different setups with different turbos yeild different results also tell us your budget and supporting mods

rb20det ecu's are easy to remap and they can be used in r33's. its been done in WA and QLD but no tuner in NSW wants to touch the idea also there's a member here called toshi who can send remap your r33 much cheaper than you would think. search him up and his prices / options

you should be able to get something like this when u data log with sheps tools to .csv file and graph with excel etc

hi mate do you have emanage blue or ultimate here are 2 threads for the ultimate http://www.emanageforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199 http://www.emanageforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=319 i use emanage blue and use 'sheps' alpha tools. note you have to have .net 2.0 framework for his alpha tools to work there is some instructions and links here http://www.emanageforums.com/forums/showth...;highlight=shep all you have to do is take the single wideband output from the LC-1 and wire it to the AFM #2 input on the emanage blue the AFM #2 input is the yellow wire in the top diagram as seen in the top picture here; http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/manuals/e...e-manage_10.JPG then load up your laptop and calibrate it via the LM-Programmer and AlphaTools under settings then you can data log rpm vs afm vs afr vs many other settings then there's the third option, if you are using emanage blue, you can update to a 'gold' version follow the tutorials from this first post here; http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114417 after that you're on your own, i have not upgrade my emanage blue to 'gold' but apparently you can use AFR input for 'target' tuning, it may use the exact same input as described above. but like i said, i'm not 100% sure with this method