Yeetus

Hey mate, the brown and grey plugs would usually go to the TPS, brown one goes on the bottom connector and grey is the top but isn't used unless the car is auto, your TPS looks different to mine though I've got a series 2 engine.

I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car. OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth. Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha

Well the good news is that it won't run any worse with an atmo bov than it does with no bov, I've owned a few Nissans over the years (r32, s15 and now r33), the stalling issue caused by a bov or no bov while still having an afm is easy enough to live with, most people get used to driving them and just feathering the throttle when you come to a stop to avoid it stalling. Changing to a proper ecu with a map sensor is ideal but in the short term I'd just slap in the bov if you really want the whoosh sound. I looked into the pass through type maf like the R35 one above but decided against it as the amount of oil and crap flowing through the hot side would mean you'd have to clean it often to keep it working.

Just had a chance to have a read of this, exactly the type of info I was after thanks for that! Amazing that thread never showed up in search Yeah I'm definitely getting swayed away from the solid conversion, plenty of people getting impressive results without it

The reason I made this thread was to try to get some useful info as all of the older threads only have tidbits here and there, while I do appreciate banter and suggestions of shoe horning V8s into cars, for the sake of someone trying to make a decision on this topic - is the general consensus that you really don't need to convert to solid lifters unless you're chasing wild above average power and rpms? options - Stick with hydro lifters possibly make 450kw at 7500rpms assuming all the right supporting mods for that goal Spend the $600-800 for the Solid lifters and find out how hard it is to set the clearances and what else needs replacing around them Neo head - possibly will cost more depending on the head prices at the time Throw away RB or buy a BMW 😆 There's a lot of the solid kits getting around from different manufacturers so someone must be doing the conversion

I can appreciate those as nice cars but I'm more of an Audi fan, did almost buy an RS5 but settled for the cheapo R33 Haha that is a wild idea, how about a banged up R33 and a case of beer? Mates rates? 😁

Well the car has only basic mods atm, Apexi Power FC and stock turbo so I'd say I'd be moving forward by at least 100%? 😆 While this is tempting, I've owned many cars and can say I'm much more of a fan of the straight 6 turbo setups, hence why I bought the Skyline instead of a V8, I'd be more inclined to try a turbo 1UZ to still have the Stututu noises Also this, big headaches Haha I had this attitude years ago and it cost me many fines and defects so trying to do things the right way this time around to avoid that, as right as I can with a high mount setup anyway. NSW highway patrol have it in for modded cars especially Japanese Cars and 4wds (they'll leave old mates commodore with no rears springs alone though) in the Newcastle/Central coast region so the quieter and less obvious you can be the better. Although sometimes they just have a problem with you just looking too happy in your Japanese car

Goddam! Thats the dream, neo heads seem hard to come by these days though, best I've seen is $2-3k or there's a full motor for $7k atm

Cheers for the input, 450kw on poncams is impressive! I assumed you'd need 264 or 272 for that power level, good to know you don't need to rev that high to hit it, just don't want to buy the cams etc then find out the hydraulic lifters suck haha The box will be getting reconditioned too, possibly an aftermarket gearset if it turns out they're toast, cheers I'll keep that in mind

Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info - I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions - Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine? Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals? Summary - Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers

Hey mate give Autotechnica a go, I recently got some Comfort PUs and rails from them, they're comfy and look great highly recommended! https://www.autotecnica.com.au/part-finder/nissan/skyline/r32/

Only needed to pull out the seats, center console and gear shifter surround, took a weekend and a fair few beers. You get to look forward to finding all sorts of weird shit under the seats and carpet, I pulled out a Chinese dudes passport from 2003, 220 yen and a condom wrapper 😆

Took some pics, excuse the dirty footprints need to give it a clean after I finish the sound system haha https://ibb.co/Y79M6btJ https://ibb.co/4w86zShg https://ibb.co/ccMPMtDx

Unfortunately haven’t taken pics yet after it was finished. All the edges are hemmed nicely, just had to cut holes for the gear shifter and seat bolts and seat belt bolts in the rear. The molds seem like they’re done with steam and a layer of glue on the underside to hold a bit of shape but still soft enough that it’s a good fit when it’s all pressed down.

I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.

A quick Google said 297mm..

No hate on PFCs haha, most of my experience is with Nistune so I was surprised to see one of these, no issues if it works for now, just need to get this car running properly So I did a scrub of that pdf and other threads and confirmed all the pins had the correct voltages and the ECCS relay functions as it should so I can rule that out. All screens are showing zeros for all values, as much as I would love to do a reset but afraid it’ll lose the tune, everything I can find points to it being in read only mode due to being locked by the tuner, this car has changed hands a few times and hasn’t been registered in 2 years so finding the owner that tuned it isn’t an option unfortunately Sweet I didn’t realise Jez was still tuning, looks like he’s moved to Warners Bay, I had my old S15 tuned by him way back when he was in Somersby, hopefully he’s still got the necessary gear I guess that’s my way forward then, cheers fellas

Have actually read that one, still stuck at the Hand controller being locked though, just wondering if there’s anything to be done other than buying Datalogit or FC Hako

Thanks for that, every link referencing it was broken

Gday! New guy to the forum I've recently picked up an R33 GTST with a few aftermarket bits and pieces including an old school Apexi Power FC, allegedly it’s been tuned, although most of the values in IGN and INJ show zeros. Also when I attempted to adjust the cranking table for cold start, the change I make disappears when I press Prev to go back and save. Every bit of info on these is over 10years old by now so most pictures and links don’t work in forums From what I’ve read this could be because the ecu has been locked by whoever tuned it, does anyone know a way around this without spending heaps on a Datalogit? Or happen to know any Tuners around the Newcastle NSW area that still know use these? cheers