BADHAB|T

I use Meguiar's PlastX (plastic scratch remover), works really well! Or in my case now, crash your car and get 2 brand new ones bought for you! (thank you insurance), but at NZ$1200 new each from Nissan this probably isnt in every ones budget

Check your number plate, that usually makes the most noise. You can sound deaden the under side of your boot lid. Check all screws/bolts are tight. Check the jack and tool kit, they will make some noise! If your bootlid rattles, try looking for a thicker rubber seal so you almost haveto forceit shut. They are wrong, there is alot you can do Hope that helps!

Deinately go for a high quality pair of 6" components! You will thank me for it

amerikiwis car is nur spec, mines tuned Its survived on the roads around here, your roads cant be much worse It was on show yesterday at Aucklands Nationals

There are other ways to install a 6" speaker in there but at work we would do no less that what I said. It looks the neatest and will get the best sound from it

Chris Rogers : They are 6x4's but unlike some Nissans (like an N14 Pulsar where the 6x4" speaker is on a 6" plate that can be simply removed and replaced with 6" speaker) the factory speaker is on a plastic spacer. You can buy an aftermarket 6x4" speaker but I'd highly reccomend getting 6" to fit. Even better, go for 6" components. Remove the factory spacer and with a bit of paper/cardboard mark out the area around where the spacer used to be overlapping onto the metal enough to be able to screw it onto the door. Also you need to mark out where you 6" hole will be so it wont touch any metal. Use MDF about 12mm thick. Also, before you screw it onto the door, spray paint it so moisture doesnt get to it and make it expand. I dont know every nissan that has the factory spacer cos I havent worked on every model. But I know the S13 Silvia and most probably the A31 Cefiro will have the factory speaker on a spacer

Mine rattles but I KNOW its my glovebox. You may have something stuck in your vents. Try give it a blast on full. There may also be a foreign object/broken part floating aroud in the heater box..... Not fun to get to - its a dash removal. But ifyour good you cah have the dash out in about an hour. Id say this will be your last option. Second to last is turn the music up.

bahaha all class! But I cant help thinking its a little small...... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-21124666.htm

This is the best one I use on my car and customers cars...... The blue plate on the left side of the firewall...... There is a little brown thing infront of it. Pretty much straight down is a triangle shaped grommit. Thats your best bet! You will need a straightened out coatanger to go through the hole first. It comes out quite high inside the car to the far right. Dont drill a new hole in the firewall and dont let wires sit against the edge of metal.... huge fire risk!! errr I think thats about it.....

Its best I say nothing and let the pic speak for itself! Also, www.riceboypage.com <<-- awesome site!

My mate has an aussie built R31, its at 380,000 and still going! It has an RB30E. There was a similar thread on SDU not long ago - http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...ht=how+many+kms

Is the car an R32? If so, the bonnet is very very easy to pop from the outside, no tools needed.

Very nice unit! But no one here can say 'buy it'. If its in your budget, has all the featues you need now and even in the future if you up the size of your install. And do you like the look of it? You would be surprised how many stereos dont sell cos of their looks. PS - I'd buy it! My mate recently bought the CDA9833 and he couldnt be happier with it!

I dont think its 5v.... 12 makes more sense because..... If you have a Sony or something with 2 remote wires, blue - electric antenna and blue/white - amp remote. I worked on a car yesterday (and have had this problem before) where the second hand Sony tape decks blue wire didnt have any power coming out of it, so I simply used the amp remote. A power aerial works on a 12v power supply. Also, a Pioneer unit or the like which only have a single blue wire for both electric antenna and amp remote must be 12v to make the electric wire work..... To prove the electric aerial needs a 12v power supply - if the system remote failed on a Pioneer, you can use the red ACC wire to get the power aerial going..... I think all that makes sense, if it doesnt, read it again

No worries man! Good luck with it!

Nah, ya dont need to, should be sweet without it

Yeah its good stuff, but not very cheap.... Do you mean on the thin wooden part of the tray? You want to coat that in deadener? Not too sure what exactly ya mean....

Yes, but like every Nissan you have to remove the rear seat to be able to remove the tray (Except Nissans where the back seat folds down). No, use proper sound deadening sheets, that fluffy stuff doesnt do nothing. The idea is to make the tray as solid as poss to eliminate rattles but also making it more solid means less energy is wasted in vibrations, therefore making the music sound better.

Here is Croydons GT-R. It does 7 or 8 sec passes so its more 'go' than 'show' haha Also, the S15 belongs to a mate, has pretty much everything done to it, pulls has hard as his old lightly modded R33 R

NJR 34GTT : bang on man! Excellent step by step guide! gaki : no worries dude! The vents are seperate NOT the heater controls, the heater controls are attatched to the stereo etc. (sorry for the mixup, been a while since I worked on an R34) The vents wedge out which exposes 2 screws holding the stereo facia in. Check out the link NJR posted, its easier to see it sometimes. Oh, once you have mastered your car you will be able to do most Nissans! They all come apart in a very similar way. Also, to wedge the vents out, ont use a small screwdriver as shown. You can dent and damage the dash. Use a paint scraper or something similar.

Bingo! Cheers Chris Id highly recccomend the adaptor Col-GTSX

Any car audio shop should sell them eh! We have them at work for NZ$15 You can cut it and add the 'normal' end on, but you will notice there are two aerial wires going into the nissan aerial plug. You need to select the correct one. Its usually the wire with a small bit of rubber around it right at the base of the plug. If ya have a look you will see what I mean! Also if you dont join it correctly, you will lose all reception.

Damn you Aussies have some very tidy looking skylines!! When I was over in 2002 all I saw were countless holdens and fords grrr. Go the whales! Well, this is my whale, it now has side skirts. Will soon have an aftermarket bumper and possibly a fmic

You dont need to remove the centre consol. From the begining for those that dont know...... remove the ashtray, there is a screw behind the ashtray. Now you can remove the shifter surround. It just lifts up. Now at the bottom of the stereo facia are two screws, remove them. The next part, if you use a screwdriver you can damage the dash. Use a paint scraper, put it down the crack between the dash and heater controls and wedge out the heater controls. There are two screws behind them holding the facia on. Remove the facia, unplugging anything that has to unplugged. Now unscrew the 4 screws holding the stereo brackets in. Unscrew the stereo and your new one will line up perfectly with the factory holes in the brackets. You do not need the cage so dont cut the facia and try and use it. Like every other nissan, you will be left with a small gap around the stereo. Your local audio shop may sell a trim for this. We sell them at work for $10. Or wrap a piece of velcro arouund the stereo ( just the fluffy side) As it says in the sticky about redrilling the brackets to make that trim fit.... ignore it. A very rough and incorrect way of doing it, also very time consuming! If ya have any questions, feel free to pm me!

Be wary of cutting a box to suit you size sub, or cheap boxes. Each sub has a recomended volume. Install it in the wrong size box, it will sound like crap!