Haysey

Good Luck with the sale adam, she looks as clean as she did the day you bought her! your old 2 door is still going hard! very hard as a matter of fact... Take it easy, Ed

Very nice day out, although cold.... dont know if the grog run for smoky was a good idea it all was laughs.... ill post my rum shots later hahahaha

Future music was ordinary, couple of stand outs..... ferrys last hour was amazing... i have film footage of his last songs... INCREDIBLE i think the racecourse is a shit venue

Happy birthday you two! I had my loose pants on at Future Music, but hit the city later, i heard most of the gang were too pissed to head out hahah.... Ive got some great pics of smoky from later in the night.... damn funny ones!

No dramas mate, you have helped me so much already one small mistake isnt much in my eyes Pulled the turbo off in 1hr 20min thismorning oil line made up today get resistors from jaycar tomorrow and hopefully running tomorrow night THANK YOU EVERYONE THAT HAS POSTED IN THIS THREAD YOU HAVE ALL HELPED SOLVE MY SIMPLE YET HARD PROBLEM Much appreciated all!

I guess it could be a simple mistake Proper resistors looks like i need these huh RESISTOR, 10W 5% 6R8 * RoHS Compliant:YES * Resistor element type:Wirewound Aluminium Clad * Resistance:6.8R * Power rating:10W * Tolerance, +:5% * Tolerance, -:5% * Temperature, operating max:275°C * Temperature, operating min:-55°C * Temperature coefficient, +:50ppm/°C * Temperature coefficient, -:50ppm/°C * Temperature, full power rating:20°C * Case style:Axial * Voltage rating, AC:160V * Centres, fixing LxW:12.5x11.3 * Depth, external:9mm * Length / Height, external:17mm * Resistance, insulation:10000mR * Temperature rise:22.2°C * Width, external:8.9mm or should i go closer to 10 ohm resistance as per gtr resistor pack?

sweet lucky they only cost me $25, ill get new ones... jaycar?? thanks guys you have all solved my problem!!!!!!! dammit i forgot series wiring and parallel.... smart me is which one is the injectors fuse? my fusebox lid inside is in japanese

Ok so can i get 2nd confirmation weather the resistors are actually 68ohm or 6.8ohm if they are 68 ohm ill chop out 5 and put one to the central feed of the power therefore each injector will have roughly 11.3ohm resistance? any problems there or should i get another set of resistors?

wiring up resistors was easy.... i was thinking that they might be too high, ill check them with a multimeter, and if so ill chop 5 out and wire one in.... i was thinking that but i spose dont believe what your told all the time... that could definately be the reason why they arent firing... any problems with running the injectors and no resistors? ive heard they just run really really rich

when tested with a miltimeter they read between 67-69 ive prob had it at a too high setting and there should be a decimal point in between there a little off 10ohms, but not that far.... ive been told they are " 6 wire wound 10 watt 6.8ohm resistors" chris, i think my alarm cuts the engine in other ways, although something to check for... smokey should be here in 20 to help me when i pull the injectors out and see if they are firing and also test the resistance......

ive tried all the combos, at the moment the rb20 afm and my old (not stock) ecu is back in there.. as it should run the gtr injectors but will just run dangerously lean in the top rev range... the cradle is firmly soldered in there and the chip is simple to change no problems there... wired up the afm according to a diy, but left the old plug on there so i could change it if i needed to..... maybe there is too much resistance and the injectors arent getting enough power? still waiting for a mate to come over and crank it while i miltimeter it

damn double post

Product Detail PF Part Number: 344515 Manufacturer: WELWYN Manufacturer Part Number: WH5 68R JI. Description: RESISTOR, 10W 5% 68R * Resistor element type:Wirewound Aluminium Clad * Resistance:68R * Power rating:10W * Tolerance, +:5% * Tolerance, -:5% * Temperature, operating max:275°C * Temperature, operating min:-55°C * Temperature coefficient, +:50ppm/°C * Temperature coefficient, -:50ppm/°C * Temperature, full power rating:20°C * Case style:Axial * Voltage rating, AC:160V * Centres, fixing LxW:12.5x11.3 * Depth, external:9mm * Length / Height, external:17mm * Resistance, insulation:10000mR * Temperature rise:22.2°C * Width, external:8.9mm CEF11E did the exact same thing on his rb20 and it worked, he was the one that told me to get the resistors

ok pretty sure the injectors arent going reason being is i disconnected the fuel rail and tried to test them by myself and they kept blowing off the fuel rail so hence alot of fuel got down the injector hole...... i went to crank it and it sprung to life briefly now if ive wired the resistors correctly and installed the injectors right why arent the injectors firing?

i was stressing that they werent because i didnt know the fuel ran from the back of the rail to the front... but ive checked engine bay pics on my computer to how i have it today and they are fine..... im going to wait for another set of hands and check spark and make sure the injectors are spitting..... but i cant do that alone

i put them on the 12v wire, the one that has one common and splits for each injector as seen in roys diy.... i need someone else here, isnt the best way to put a screwdriver to the injector and listen through that? i really think they arent firing for some reason

changed the sparkies the other day and drove it no problem didnt touch anything except change the injectors and add resistors.... didnt touch ignition timing from when i drove it last..... its gotta be a problem with the injectors!

Hey all well ive installed GTR injectors and these resistors click which have the same function as a gtr resistor pack..... got a retuned ecu, for the injectors and plugged the z32 afm in which it is all tuned for... the pump primes, the fuel rail has fuel in it.. but she just wont spring into life.. i have checked and rechecked everything!, installed it twice because i checked all the wiring... those resistors have the same function as the gtr resistor pack... reset the ecu.. EVERYTHING... anyone at all got any ideas on why she wont start? been working on it for 2 days now and ill have to remove the gtr injectors and put stockies back in if it keeps on like this! Thanks Ed

paul what is the best diag program to use? ive got an ECUtalk with a computer connection and most of the software that is good to use with nissans, reason i ask is because i put gtr injectors on and resistors and now shes not starting, dont know if its something simple... ill check it tomorrow sorry to hijack just thought id ask here instead of making a new thread....

ok 6 month old thread?

i grew up in balmain, thats my ghetto! not so many cruises, more dinners, (getting really loose!), alot of track days and just general meetups.... welcome.... hope you enjoy your stay

UPDATE the right size spanner, some wog power and juggernaut power we managed to get it off without breaking it pitty i wanted to smash something.... new sensor is in and reading alot more smoothly, although there are still some variations in the voltage i think thats because its running rich due to the tune...

wd40ed it over night, still no luck i think when i was attempting removal the other day and hitting the spanner with the hammer its farked up the insides even more dont care about it, do guna smash it goooood

ive tried just about everything else, when we got it out of the old dump it was put in a vice and a spanner and breaker bar was used! this is looking like the only way, used a spanner, breaker and hammer in my driveway but couldnt get it off! smashy smashy time!

well i tried removing my o2 sensor the other day, it has come off 6 months ago when i changed dump pipes.. after my efforts the other day my ecutalk is telling me the o2 sensor is really really farked now, not just farked.... o2 is reading between .00v to .99v at idle... car is running like total crap and conks out when left for 1min or so... now that i know its totally farked, reckon i just bash the top off it with a hammer and undo the bottom part with a socket set? have to get it off, and ive got a replacement here... ive unplugged it and its running .30v which is cold start now so it will run rich as.... any opinions or ideas? thanks all Ed