RBCalais

http://www.joshmadison.com/software/convert/

Yeah. it could be dangerous. When pulling the previously mentioned "massive doorrriiffttoo" the flare could fail, and thus not performing the "impressing your mates.." part of the plan. I'd imagine the used by date would be there to cover the manufactures own ass, from litigation if some Japanese driver were to break down in the middle of no where (if such a place exists in Japan) and the flare failed to ignite.

You should change your timing belt at 100kms unless its already been done, regardless of a miss. Your problem sounds more like a spark related issue, ie. plugs, coils, ignition module, etc. Does it happen when the car is warmed up? is it very consistent? does it come and go? Is it really bad or is it just one cylinder? I would need more details. But that isnt to say that some one else can't tell from the information provided.

Whether you have a voltage spike, boost spike, etc its all the basically the same... Somthing is reading consistantly and smooth, then it rises and falls sharply in a short period of time. So in the case of boost, if your boost level rises and falls when it should be staying consistant, its a spike. In turbos its due to the wastegate being actuated in effectivly. And in most cases isnt a very serious problem because it only happens for a short period of time, and in most cases it only happens over a few psi as beaver said. But the spike Beaver was talking about, he might have ment boost creep, and this is when the boost continues to rise above the desired or safe level. And this is caused by an ineffective wastegate. Whether its due to the gate being too small or not open enough, the result is the same. If your experiencing it because you installed a boost tap/bleed valve, then the bleed valve is allowing too much air to escape, and the wastegate actuator cannot open the gate.

Anyone got any reccomendations or opinions on oil for an r32 gtr gearbox? VMX80 is pretty cheap, redline shockproof pretty expensive... Is there a middle of the road? so to speak.. What about gtr diffs?

You're a champion!!! Is there an individual seal kit for the master? like the slave? or do the masters only come as a piston and seal kit? Thanks heaps! Anyone had to repair a clutch booster before? I've got a nasty twin plate clutch and its hard enough as it is! I guess I'll find out the damage when I get it apart

Hey All, I got myself an 89 R32 GTR on the weekend. WOOO!!! :Pimp2: Its got a vacuum leak from the diaphram of the clutch booster. It also has a slight fluid weep from the bucket/plunger in the slave. I'm guessing the clutch fluid hasn't been changed as often as it should, and it's caused leaks in the slave and probably the master aswell (which would possibly cause the diaphram leak).. This means i'll be up for a replace the diaphram and rekit the slave and probably the master too. I'm not 100% as i haven't opened it up yet. Anyway, I'm looking for Nissan part number for the diaphram and part numbers to re-kit the master and slave. Can anyone offer any suggestions or tricks on this one? Or should I just chase up a second-hand booster? Could it be possible that they share the same part numbers as a blue bird, pintara, or patrol? I'd like to think so, but I couldn't be that lucky could I?! Cheers, Rob.

As the title states, I'm after an R32. I'm chasing one preferably a 2 door GTST, in QLD and with a body in good condition and a RWC. As far as price goes, I've seen some great deals lately so maybe i've been spoilt but I'd be expecting decent ones in great condition to be priced around or below the $13k-$14k mark. But if the motor is tired, blown up or absent, it doesnt worry me, and same goes for the gearbox. I'm quite flexible as long as the price is right. Like I said I'd prefer one that is a going concern with all paper work and RWC but if I'm offered one (even a sedan, without a turbo, engine, box, etc.). And it's the right price i'll certainly consider it. I'd also love to get one with a sunroof, but its obviously not essential. I'm not fussed by colour either or wheels. But I'm willing to pay extra for the right items. Maybe a huge turbo, external gate, fmic, computer, coil-overs, deep dish rims, spoilers, schmick paint, etc, etc, :wassup: :aroused: . Please message me if you have one or if you can put me onto someone. Thanks. Cheers. Rob.

:sly: What damage?

Ahh ok thanks for the info.. So they just get an Aus VIN fixed to vehicle?

A bargain to be sure! What times has it run? Has it still got N/A brakes? Cheers.

If the car just arrived and I can't see an Australian complience plate in the engine bay pic, can I assume this car isn't complied? Which month of 1990 is it? And how many kms is low kms? Thanks

I had almost given up on finding a decent looking 32 and then this comes along and it's in QLD.. and then wouldn't you know it! Out of my price range! At least you've inspired me to keep looking! Free bump! P.S. Let me know if you can do a good price, maybe it could be cheaper without those fine chromies?

Hopefully I'm not hi-jacking a thread here... But I've been looking at purchasing an R32, which aparantly has an RB25 head and RB26 block. I won't mention the guys name as it is from this forum (people might be able to figure out which R32 or which guy it is, based upon this though). He sent me a picture of the engine bay, and I was concerned about the amount of RB20 gear contained within (i.e. cam covers, timing belt cover, intake piping are all RB20 items and I can't see a VCT solenoid) But it has does have an RB25 intake manifold. Anyone got any opinions on whether this would infact be an RB25 Head (probably a DE seeing as how its non-vct) See attached pic:

So RB25 intake manifolds don't bolt to RB20 heads?

Hi, just wondering what things are require to re-register a complied import. I'm looking at buying a 15year old R32 which has been complied and I want to know that I have everything required, so that when I rock up at QLD transport, with a RWC and cash for Rego and CTP insurance I'm not going to be turned away. So what items could be required? * A japanese complience plate? (the Blue sqare-ish ones) * An Australian VIN number (ones that are usually engraved onto the fire wall or on a pop-rivited plate) * The Australian complience plate (that reads "this vehicle complies with the low volume import rules of 1989" )- I've seen these on later model cars, like R33s etc. Are these required for the 1989 model cars? What about paper work?? * Import approval paper work * Complience paper work? Thanks.

Cool. Sounds like a very durable/tough engine, with the calibre of those strengthening modifications! I'd say it is definitely capable of enduring a little more punishment than 180kws. The next owner will be able to bolt on a larger turbo and (with the appropriate tune) chase much, much larger numbers, with out any major concern. I'd have thought an engine that strong could be capable of producing around 300 rwkws. But I suppose you'd be better to contact "custom engines in melb" for their much more valid opinion.

Beautiful, beautiful car, I'm always a sucker for a blue car with white wheels! Does it for me every time! Just one quick question though. You can't get semi forged pistons, there's simply no such thing. That or, either your understanding or interpretation of "semi forged" is wrong or mine is. I beleive forged pistons are milled and machined from a single forged block of billet steel. Cast pistons are created in a similiar fashion, but have the majority of their lower skirt structure created in the initial cast, and then receive milling and machining, to get create the crown, skirts, dish, fly-cuts, etc. So what sort of pistons do you have?

Can anyone help me here?

Hi everyone, I have bought a complete RB25DET motor and I am putting the head onto a standard 3L bottom end. I beleive the 3L is fairly strong. Provided that it holds up will it be possible to get 350RWKW out of it with only these bolt ons? GT40, PowerFC, Intake Plenum, FMIC, 3" exhaust, 550cc side fed injectors. Around how much boost will I need to run? Also if I need to run more boost, what is the best method to prevent detentation? ie water injection? I wasnt sure whether or not to put this on the other thread but its too long to go through, sorry if something simliar to this has been posted. :Oops: Thanks Edward

Thanks chef. But I've found one for $10. Unless some one can beat $10 i'll be going with it. Cheers all thanks for your time!

Looking for a MAP sensor. The sorta one I'm chasing, is out of either an R32 or R33 skyline and is only used to run the factory dash mounted boost gauge. Its located near the firewall on the drivers side in R33s and near the passenger side on R32s IIRC. I'd imagine R31's, 180sx's, cefiros, supercharged VT commodores and what not would also have a similiar unit. If you've got another unit off a boosted car.. let me know. Thanks.

Awesome car! Got ¼ times for it?

As the topic says I am looking for an RB25 Head, im not concerned what it is, DE DET VVT or non-VVT. Must be complete as I want it for an RB30 Conversion... Thanks Edward

Haha, this thread might remind people from townsville about a silver lancer with GTR badges. He got paid out pretty heavily, so much so that he removed them. right minded public 1 > lancer driver 0