ISL33P

Simpsons Welding in Berkeley, NSW. This is where I got mine from, both torch and cooler.

long live the two strokes!!!! yep an ex-Yamaha RD rider right here. Well sort of ex, I sitll have it among my dad's massive collection of rd and rz's, but its just in pieces begging for a revival. This kind of work is unfortuantley fading but seeing stuff like that makes me wonder why people like the computerised stuff when something hand made comes out as good as that, well done. Ariel

I actually just sent one off on Monday...they are $1400 + delivery. I would also need the standard runners to do the job. As for a rating, I'm not really into quoting a max hp, even though they are all flow tested and in the case of the XR6 plenums it will be well in excess of 1000hp, it is more about the benefits they provide and what they do for an engine to perform as efficiently as possible. Cheers, Ariel

if you like, I can give you the details of the shop I got my cooler and torch from. around $1000 compared to $2-3k for the original kemppi ones.

how much were they and how easy are they to get a hold of?

post a pic of a housing and I will draw what angle it needs to be cut

I ended up using gti-R throttle bodies.....perfect port spacing no hassles what so ever....just had to drill a couple of holes on the itb's and make the bellmouths to suit. It was for an NA circuit car with limited engine space and runner design due to class regulations.

Good thinking. My current welder only has amp control, penetration adjustment (frequency), pulse setting and post flow....thats it so there is no real need all that adjustment. i have seen the best welders produce the same results regardless of the machine and its settings. The more basic and the less adjustments/options and there is no choice but to learn how to produce the best possible result with as little as possible....that really shows the difference between an average welder and good welder.

Its the first tig I ever bought. Not bad, but just sucks too much current for a single phase machine. better connect via 3 phase. Worked ok, but a very basic machine....they will never die...they live for ever. Definately could not have done the stuff in my welding pic thread

as long as its 1.5" it should be fine

It has been a while since I updated this thread, so here goes. Another busy weekend...finsihing those ones from the last weekend and then completing two "Street" version CA18's. One for making it's way to Sweden and the other into a previously Zoom featured 1200 ute....oooh how I miss my old 1200 ute. I think this weekend has definatley been my best welding weekend ever!! I have gone through a complete large size gas bottle in 5 or 6 days of work.....at nearly $300 a pop, the guage definately moves too fast. Cheers, Ariel

reason I like the watercooled torches is because of the tight spaces you can get into with them...not only that, they are easier to keep a hold off and I find leave a better looking bead....nothing to do with how much welding I do. If I do 2 or 3 hours on the weekend, that is the heaps, like you, the preparation is the time killer.

Happens with both rb20 and rb25's. Just cut the neck off on an angle, machine some 1.5" tube, put some grooves in it to stop the hose blowing off and weld it back on. Make sure you clean the housing real well with some wire brush on the inside and outside, overtime the coolant gets inside the aluminium and can make it an absolute pain int the ass to weld...trust me haha

the idle air control is the only one you need. the air regualtor simply balances air between the front and back of the plenum.....throw that in the bin. Just make another plate to welded on to the plenum, depending what thickness material was used for the plenum and drill and tap it to suit. I have kept all the standard gaskets for when people want me to put them on.

I looked at the same welder str8...no water-cooler? I bought a chinese water-cooler and it works a treat and a sh1tload cheaper than the stuff that comes from kemppi, lincoln or any tig manufacturer 230amp, single phase seems good and they have a great reputation....I was just over inverters since I had nothing but bad luck with them.

keep an eye out on ebay...there is always plenty of good ones out there. I went through 3 different welders last year and i can say one of them was chinese and blew up when i turned the power one. The other was italian and didnt have the balls i need to do what seemed to be the smallest of jobs and buy luck I got a 3 phase lincoln 230amp welder on a run out sale for $1500, usaully $4500. So with the left over i added 3 phase to my place and bought a water cooler. The most basic welder in terms of adjustments I have ever had and i am welding better now than ever before.....KISS is the way to go.

pm take two is on its way

pm sent pintaline thanks r33_racer

definately something that can be fabricated. I have a couple of ideas in my head, that I would be happy to talk about if you like. Ph: 0403 279 000

only thing is that the stock plenum suffers from the same, or well at least to a simlar extent, as does the one there now. cylinders 1-3 flow quite evenly but 4 is just over 10% less than the others

Gareth - congrats on building something like that - the plenum i mean - at the age of 16...there are plenty out there (and on here that have never done anything apart from bolt on an air filter or intercooler and think they know it all. The plenum would cause the rich mixtures in cylinder 4 as you are experiencing. The turbelence created at the rear of the plenum is the reason for this - turbulence or air pockets reduce flow and result in the rich mixtures. This is typical of that style of plenum. Strangely all the top 2jz race teams, here and in the US run this style but also have the luxury of adjusting fuel mixtures per cylinder to overcome this....personally not the ideal way, but whatever works for some people is enough. Simply run mixtures that air safe for cylinders 1-3 and that will bandaid fix that issue.

That's a good find which keeps it nice and simple. Considering 150F or 65C is not often reached for the extended periods of time these guys would consider "extended", using this filler is not to be seen as a concern for anyone looking at fabricating anything for their projects using 5xxx material. Just to add some comfort, I have never had a plenum crack due to fatigue, I do have plenty of plenums out there on cars which have been doing the rounds for some 5 or 6 years still going strong. Correct design and welding process will ensure fatigue will not happen when using these materials/filler rods in combination. Happy welding

Not sure on the silicon content of 5356. I use 5356 due to its larger resitance to cracking with its high magnesium content and suitablilty to 5xxx series sheet I use..silicon is usually only referred to when discussing 4043 rod.

thanks. I cant wait to have everything else finished on them. I have a few other ideas for when you come down next aswell

Thanks for the compliments. Pulse setting varies depending on what part of the plenum I am welding, as does the wave balance as some parts need more or less pentration than others. I'd say just turn it on and try at a level which you are comfortable at travelling. Certainly helps with consistency. NYTSKY - I was only speaking to Shaun the other day, he does some seriously good work. Certainly one of the best around and miles ahead of me in weld quality. His manifolds for the Gen 3's have been compared to some of the top names in the states, certainly a very good compliment.