ISL33P

Covers still for sale?

Covers still available?

Microtech LT16 Was used for Dyno time only and then removed since customer received sponsorship from another ECU supplier. I then sent it to Microtech to wipe it clean, add data logging, 3 bar map sensor, X6 box and turbo timer and made to suit RB26. Comes with brand new wiring harness. Retail around $2,000. Taking offers around $1400. Have receipt for work carried out by Microtech. Will deliver anywhere in OZ. Ariel 0403279000

Here is a good start for all your amperage and gas flow requirements. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/calculators/tig_amperage_calculator.php 120ish amps on 3mm aluminium 15cfh and you should be fine the steel tig weld just looks too hot and you dipped/touched the tungsten halfway thru. Do you have a pedal or switch to control amps?

Ohhh c'mon its not that far . It's Wollongong, not Melbourne lol

....so a bit like the r34 only event a few weeks ago

but at least this one is still in business and hasn't f**ked anyone over

So is now a good time to show some of my work Sucks to hear of so many people being ripped. Being in the fab business, it definitely isn't easy to make a good quality product and there aren't many people out there that take there that are prepared to spend the money for a quality job and even less which take the time, pride and care to do so and that is why so many people come and go. Unfortunately people have to learn from others mistakes, but it will happen again because people forget in a few years and then someone else comes along and does the same thing....it happens since there is a constant supply of willing customers coming into the scene, innocent first timers, thinking they can build a car from behind a keyboard.

Phhhhewww, good to hear

I just hope it has nothing to do with the car not performing or engine being in pieces, fingers crossed....best of luck Bobby

Nice work!!

Was initially in a tt lsx powered car for 2 dyno sessions. Tuner then became a Haltech distributor hence the computer change, no other reason. Was reconfigured to suit rb26 with invoice receipts to back it up. No longer for sale - please delete

FS: Microtech LT16 to suit RB26 with brand new harness, 3 bar map sensor & ECU logging. Also comes with X6 ignitor box and new harness. Purchased computer alone 2nd hand and I have receipts for everything for Microtech which confirm the specs and configurations. Was used in car for 2 dyno sessions, which can be confirmed by reputable previous workshop owner/tuner. This setup brand new is approx $1700, I am chasing $1300 ono including delivery anywhere in Oz. Thanks, Ariel Call/sms 0403279000

I would love to see a pic of these cracks away from a weld. This would indicate a problem with the material which would be VERY VERY strange. Of the manifolds I have repaired/modified, the cracks have ALWAYS been on the edge of the weld or in the middle of it due to some of the gaps these chinese guys try to fill in PS im paying $160 per G bottle from Supagas

Pleasure speaking to you today Steve. Make sure you send through that email

use the 5356, the shiny but dull beads would come down to the 4043. i'd say the crack is more due to a combination of being the start of the weld on the end of the materials & too much heat. Once a crack starts it tends to go on for a while if it isn't corrected

The gaps are your first problem, edge to edge. No gaps at all when welding aluminium. Scotty is spot on, it reflects in the weld bead and looks like sh1t and hence why you are getting the crack at the start of the weld. What filler rod are you using?

I would say yes but only if you add internal baffles which would act as further support. All this will depend on the dimensions of the tank and how it will be supported in place? Will it be in the standard location or in the boot of what I am assuming is a Skyline?

just to give this thread a bit of a move on....here is of my first ones. RB26 exhaust manifold flange with loft from port outline to ID of steam pipe to save a massive amout of die grinding and assist with port alignment and without lofting to keep costs down on cutting, 2axis vs 5 axid for lofted version

want to sell the 26 shims seperately?

edit - should read timing cover backing plate

I need the following: 7x valve shims to suit standard cams 2x cam bolts - ones with baffles 8x cam gear bolts & washers timing belt cover plate top radiator hose neck - one fitted to sandwich/injector plate Also after: camshaft seals 2x half moon seals intake and exhaust manifold gaskets There might be more so get an eye out Will pay post from anywhere in Oz. I'm in Wollongong NSW 2500 Thanks, Ariel 0403 279 000

Nice work Abe, you surely have some patience for those bends!!!! Just a couple of things to note for those out there getting started.....and some tips for you Abe The weld on the drift handbrake is pulsed, either by pedal or machine, and there is nothing wrong with that. You can see the eye of the weld which is not a good thing. Reason being, this is can cause cracks....not saying that it will, just trying to help out. This can come down to a number of things: - too much variance between high current and low current, ie, increase background current % or increase amps between pulse - spacing between beads to wide, ie, reduced the distance you travel between pulses (assuming pulse is set really low <10pulse per second) - not enough filler rod for each bead, ie, add more filler rod When you add all these together, you will get a lot stronger weld and 100 times better looking best of both welds. Also, what filler wire did you use on the sr20 high mount manifold? the colour looks strange for what appears to be mild steel? Happy welding everybody, Ariel

Nothing wrong with putting a bend in the runners, 45-60deg will clear the clutch master and make their way towards the bonnet. Wouldn't be that hard at all to make....would be good to see some back to back testing if your keen. Pay for materials only