maka

Hey man.. I had my engine ping on nuber six as well.. ended up with a melted piston.... Does the car have an oil catch can??? My turbo was on its way out.. blew oil through the cooler into the engine, causing detonation... got way too hot.. and went bang.. Thats usually a good place to start, and also the injectors could be dirty.... Just a place to start.. Sorry cant be more help..

Cool... I think I'll see if i can get a gauge somewhere.... Hmm so you would recommend the mechanical oil filled gauge?? Not the electronics ones with a sender??? I am currently using Mobil 1 5w 40... and i only changed it on sat... I will see what happens with it.

Yeah always a good idea to take it off, just in case it ends up leaking cause of oil sealant on the block. to stop the sump from leaking.. Will change the gauge, and sender and see what it comes up with.. Cheers for the help,

Turbotech in Ascott..

Oh really.. I didnt think it was that difficult... I ordered a N1 pump for my new engine too... but wasnt gonna put that in here... Ws just gonna put another standard one it, with a new seal and stiff... I didnt think that I would need to pull the crank out etc.. I mean it is just a reverse of what I did when putting this motor together... see attached image, that was all on the engine when it was getting built, folllowed by the main crank cradle... but the pump did not go till all that was done.... I thought if i took off the belts, and the front main pully.. then took off the timing belt, then gear... it should be there and accessible.... I will have a look on my spare motor... Before I do anything anyways.. But before I start messin with that, I'll make sure its not just the pressure sender, or the gauge... Thanks for the input though

Thanks guys... I drove the car around for a while last night, and monitored the pressure... It was really weird... Went from about half way between the 0 and the first line, to just under the first line... (thats where I think it is meant to me) then when driving on the freeway between the first line and the 4.. On the freeway at 100kmh.. SO I was kinda happier.. But then when leaving the car for a few hours, and starting to drive again, it was under the first line again.. even whilst on the freeway.. so i let it putt along at 80kmh, till it rose to between the 2 and the 4... SO yeah will replace the sender tonight.. as I have a spare one... And I'll also replace the dash, cause I have a spare one of those too... Will let you guys know, so if anyone has the same issue.. they can sort it out too... I'm replacing my radiator soon as well, so might just pull that pump out as well, and put a new one in there.... Thanks for the support guys.. much appreciated..

Thanks guys... will look into it further... could be only the factory gauge causing issues... Cheers..

Thanks for the reply guys.. I thought it should stick between the 2 and the 8... thats how i remember it being on my old engine.. I am using a GTR dash.. but willl try the oil press gauge out of my gtst dash, to see what happens... Just in case that is the issue.. Thanks again..

HI all Is anyone able to tell me where the oil pressure is supposed to sit on idle on an engine at operating pressure.. Or any info as to where yours sits.. would be awesome. I think mine is a bit low, and i think the oil pump may need replacing.. Any input would be great.. My car is a R33 gt25t, and has just had the bearings replaced, cause it has previously spun a bearing... So just wondering if this may be the cause.... Thanx in advance.. Mark,

Hi all.. I think my oil pump may be getting a bit sick... Is someone able to tell me where their gauge sits when the car is at operating temperature, but just idling... Mine sits between the 0 and the next marker, which should be 2... I think that is a bit low, but am unsure.. When the car is cold, oil pressure goes up almost to 8.. so thats ok.. When driving normally it still sits under the 2 marker, but i think i remember my old engine used to sit between the 2 and the 4.... Should I be worried?? The engine has just had new bearings etc put in it, and this engine has spun a bearing before.. didnt cross my mind to replace the pump when putting it together, but think i might have to do it.. And input would be great... Thanks.

PM sent.. with details That car is hot... I beleive the car had 240rwkw.. So nothing to be overlooked, and besides, was sold for a decent amount.. Wicked car.

haha, Yeah scotty, we'll get you drink again, and let you sleep in the magna... Hey, I beleive that would be Dave, that used to have the R33 4dr... Far out, when you told me you sold your car, didnt realise you got a new skyline.. If scotty can't help you, let me know, and i'll go poke him till he does something.... Cheers, Mark

haha, yeah well, going from cruising around subi in Scotty's old GTR, now we are stuck crusising around in his civic.. lol!!! Ahh well... Nice buy anyways dude, seen that car every day for the time scotty owned it, and far out.. That thing is very very neat... And mind you very angry too.. Look at the times that it pulled on those mods.. Was there that night.. It certainly surprised a few ppl.

Sweet, no probs. see how you go.. But isnt Bubba running a RB30/25 or something in those lines? Yeah, as long as it is the same one, you'll be ok.. I mean if worst comes to worst, you can just get another 3 pin AFM, find out the pin config, and put that on.. I remember using a AFM of some sort of subaru... was a lot larger than the one that is standard on the 33.. Car took forever to get up to speed, but it proved the AFM was an issue... Cheers.

Dude, its your AFM, have a look, I posted a similar problem about 6 months or so ago... Although I have an R33gtst. Have a look at what type of air flow meter you have, and borrow one off someone to try... I think the RB25 has 3 different stickers on them a pink, yellow and green.. I could be wrong with the colours.. but yeha mine had a pink one.. I borrowed an AFM, put it on my car, and she was sweet.. Then had a look on the for sale section and managed to get one for $100.. The car never missed a beat after that... I would also suggest having a look at the posts about coilpacks. and how to fix em.. i found mine had some of those hairline cracks.. also worth doing... I tried cleaning the AFM before too, and it worked for a little while.. but after realising the way a AFM works, I realised the thermistor had just got old, and needed replacing.. if you wanna pull your AFM apart, check for dry joints, there is a thing on the forum on how to do it.. But yeah I donno if it is possible to get the thermistor specs for that type of AFM.. I mean you could measure it, but I doubt you'll be able to match it.. The AFM should solve your issues for now though.. Good luck Cheers, maka.

Hmm, I decided to do my RB25det myself... Find out a bucket load of stuff that I never knew about engines too... If you have the motivation, and the time give it a shot... I found that building the bottom end all the stuff has to be perfect (obviously) but yeah as long as you can find out all the specs for the block, and pistons etc, take the bottom end to the machinist, with the clearances etc, and they will set it all up for you to those specs.. But yeah if you got the money to spare give it to someone else.. I am interested in this sorta stuff, as my full tme job is in a completely different field.. I got accesss to a workshop where I am working on the engine evry day from 3 till about 6.. except I have access to it for half day on sat as well.. Having the support of a mechanic (mind you he does bmw's and merc and all the euro cars) he is still able to give me some pointers.. There is enough info on Skylines australia to be able to do all this, there is torque settings, all the measurements etc, to be able to do everything.. Will let you all know when it is finished, but so far the pieces are falling into place.. But yeah I am glad I decided to do this, as I have only one person to blame if something goes wrong... But yeah I know it won't... Cheers..

Yeah, Just called him up to find out what he can do, and he recons that he needs a chart to be able to see all the sizes, and match them all up.. Anyone got this Chart with all the different bearing sizes etc?? Cheers..

Thanks Paul, Will do that... The machinist I used is Danny at Performance modifications, in Ossie park.. But he seems to do V8's and stuff, so donno if he really knows what he is talking about when it comes to these engines.. will call him up, and see what happens. Any recommendations of other machinists? or where to take the engine so it all gets matched up.. Cheers.

Hi guys, been posting stuff on WA forum, but just thought I'd ask everyone. Still rebuilding my engine, but now I have come to a point where I am stuck.. I got my Pistons all cleaned crack tested etc.. and same with crank and the rods.. But I am now tring to find bearings and rings.. They are all standard size, according to the machinist.. I have called up Veale's and they have ACL race bearings for standard size. and piston rings to suit.. But then I called Xspeed, and the guy told me that the RB25det has 3 standards, and the bearings etc need to be matched etc etc.. Has anyone heard of this, or is anyone aware of something like this.. Where would you get your bearings and rings from?? Its just an RB25det, with all stock pisons etc.. was complete, but I honed the bore, and decided to get some new parts.. Cheers guys. Maka.

Hi guys, Still rebuilding my engine, but now I have come to a point where I am stuck.. I got my Pistons all cleaned crack tested etc.. and same with crank and the rods.. But I am now tring to find bearings and rings.. They are all standard size, according to the machinist.. I have called up Veale's and they have ACL race bearings for standard size. and piston rings to suit.. But then I called Xspeed, and teh guy told me that the RB25det has 3 standards, and the bearings etc need to be matched etc etc.. Has anyone heard of this, or is anyone aware of something like this.. Where would you get your bearings and rings from?? Cheers guys. Maka.

My car is insured with HBF, under my dad's name as the time I insured it I was under 25, not any more though.. Its 950 a year.. Might be an option to look at.. Instured for 20k for the car and 2k for the accesssories. R33gtst

Cool, yeah I have heard of a few ppl using the Bosh 044 pump.. Think I should be able to get one of those somewhere, otherwise I recall a mate telling me that he was using a Porsche 911 turbo pump on his car, which was putting out 536 on the dyno. SO i think i might look into one of those perhaps too.. Will the fuel lines be an acceptable size? Or will they need to be upgraded too? Yeah I figured that turbo wil be a lag monster, but meh, I like the adrennalin of something like that coming on boost.. I know the feeling just from a mates car which is a R32 GTR with 2 gt35/40's comes on boost a bit late, but when it does, its sweet.. hehe.. I have nto had a good look at the plate on the turbo yet, but i know the guy told me it is a T04, as he bought it brand new, and never got around to fitting it. SO yeah I got the kit, which has all the gaskets, the turbo, gate and exhaust manifold. I am getting a dump from him too, which will just need the turbo flange replaced, but is a 3" dump. so that should be ok I think. I am going to pick up the whole kit on friday, so I will be able to inspect everything further.. So far the car has a fmic, and a 3" exhaust.. It has the stock brakes so far, but I have ordered some slotted rotors for the front and rear. I have the Bendix race pads in it, and I think i will just get some new ones fot the new rotors too... The take a bit to warm up, but once they do... It stopps. hehe The gearbox, and diff are still standard, but I have always been planning to rebuild those as well.. The clutch in it is a Extreme 12puk I think, or maybe 13puk.. not sure.. but yeah when I got it was told that it is good for 500 horses, so I think that will be up to the task.. Got my clutch pivot replaced with a Nismo one as well.. I have Bilstein shocks with HKS springs in the car now too.. only about 2 months old, before the engine let go.. Far out, I love the look of the turbo, and the housing, and far out I want an external wastegate, but maybe I should put the TD06 on to run the engine in, and get the new fuel pump, injectors, and ecu sorted before I put that system on.. The TD06 I bought as a kit too, so it has all the lines, and stuff for a straight bolt on to the RB25.. Otherwise this rebuild will end up costing a few k over budget.. Cheers. maka.

Hey man, nah i dont have an aftermarket fuel pump.. What would you recommend?? Yeah I have access to an RB26 head too.. and will try and get that for the other build, but for now, I will have to get this motor working. And yeah there is no point having this turbo, manifold etc if i am not going to use it.. So I may as well have some new shiny bits on the engine. Any other suggestins that I should get for a bit of poke out of the RB25.. I donno what I can hope for, but I know this turbo can produce a lot more power than the stock internals will ever handle.. Has anyone seen one of these turbos on a rb25det before?? or any engine for that matter?? Just in case you wanted to know what i am talking about here is a pic (mobile phone cam) next to another mobile just to get an idea of the size. Cheers, Maka.

hey man, From what I have heard.. R33ecu's cannot be remapped.. however If you want a chipped stock ecu, what they normally do is use a RB20ecu with a chip, and program it to run an RB25... Thats going from what I have been told... I am in the market for a new ECU, and I think the best optiopn is just to get a power fc, as they are the most tuneable, and will be the best option if you are going to be modyfing the car anyways.. Just my 2 cents. Cheers.. maka.

Hmm yeah the reason for the melted piston... It was pinging when it was under stress.. so third geat high rpm, and 4th gear high rpm.. The cause for the ping is due to my turbo being towards the end of its life, therefore breathing oil into the engine... The ping would have stressed the piston,til it just decided to let go.. I had known about the ping for a while, and tried a few things, but never got around to getting an oil catch can... After i installed the front mount, it stopped for a while, and i thought it was due to inlet temp being too high, but nah, once the cooler got a good flow of oil through it, it started feeding it into the engine again... I should have replaced the turbo earlier... I also found that my coil packs had those hairline cracks, and saw where they have been earting out to the rail.. But yeah the coils packs are easy fix for now... Hmm, I will just have to use my mates power FC, and 550cc injectors for now, to get the car running then. Cause I dont think the car will go any other way, and I would die, if the piston melted again.. Hmm, sometimes I wish I didnt have to learn all this stuff and could just give the car to a mechanice, and say.. fix it and make it good.. hehe.. then blame him if it f**ks up.. hehe.. I got my call, and all the pistons crank and rods are good, no cracks, and they are all polished and ready for pick up.. All up that excercise cost $321... Not sure if that is good or bad yet.. I guesss i will kow when it is all together.. Not including the turbo exaust manifold and gate, the whole lot cost me 1300 so far $200 block, 321 machining of pistons etc, 325 for full gasket kit for RB25det, and 500 to recon the head... but looks like it will be about 3 k or maybe $3.5K all up with everything including my stainless 3" exhaust.. Only problem is now i have a TD06 that cost me $850 sitting there doing nothing.. hmm.. I think i will start saving, and start doing some work on the RB30 block that I have as well.. Maybe put some forgies in there, and change the head over one day.. or maybe get a 26 head with twin turbos... All in the far future though.. hehe Cheers for the quick replies man... youre a legend...