maka

Hmm, thanks man... I will have to look into aftermarket injectors and ecu then.. How about running stock injectors, what horsepower are they rated for?? Would it be ok to run these with the stock ecu, a fuel presure reg, at least till the engine is run in.. but with the T04 turbo?? Chers, Mark

Thanks heaps for the advice guys. I have stuck with the RB25 bottom end that I bought off the forums, and yeah honed the bore, loooks great now.. and the pistons, rods and crank should be all checked and polished and ready to go in with the new rings and bearings by friday. Now I am a bit worried though.. I went out and bought a TD06 on Friday, and was gonna put that on, as my turbo has not only up and down shaft play, but forward and backwards (replace your air filter more often)... But then I went out on sat to get my new exhaust, and ended up buying a T04 with top mount manifold and external wastegate. It just looked soooo good, and I couldnt say no for the price. So that is definitely going on the engine. But now I am stuck with the dilema of getting everything running properly. I have some GTR injectors available to me, but I am not sure if they fit on a RB25, has anyone done this, I was told about using some soryt of resistor pack with using GTR injectors on an RB20, buit I am not sure about RB25's does anyone know what is involved, do i need a new rail?? I have a fuel pressure reg, and I can use that to bump up the presure out of the fuel lines. and what else would you guys suggest? I am stuck now, as I know that the turbo can produce a bucket load of power, but I would not wanna go past the 400 mark, as I know GTR injectors are rated to 440.. Ad I still have the stock ECU in the car, so i am not sure if that will be ok to run the engine at least untill the engine is run in.. Anyone have any ideas? This is turning out to cost a fortune, but hopefully at least it will be a bit more fun than the power that the old engine had, and hopefully a bit more reliable... BTW, the car has cost me that much so far, and I am not willing to get rid of it.. I would rather have something that I know the history of.. I love the look of that car, and the engine looks sweet, but no offence I prefer mine.. Cheers for the offer though.. Cheers Maka.

Far out, thats nuts... Was that number 6 as well?? I donno what mine looks like from the side.. but when i take it out, will post a pic..

Yeh, just took the crank in to get machined and check it all for cracks, and ordered new rings. Going to hone the bore tonight, so that should be good. Also getting the pistons cleaned up and check for cracks, and also do the same with the rods. Gonna take your advice and get some NDC bearings. Looking forward to putting all the bits back together. Thanks for the input.. Will let you know how it goes. Just in case you guys were interested, here is a pic of the melted piston in the old block.

Hi guys. My Rb25 melted number 6 piston.. Nasty job, but it did it.. So i was thinking of a few different options for the engine.. I saw a standard rb25det block for sale on the forum, so i grabbed it.. Today i started work on the engine, started stripping the block that I bought, just in case ther was anything that may be wrong with it.. Pulled the crank out, and all the pistons. I didnt intend on doing forged internals and stuff on this engine, I was going to do it as an ongoing project on the other engine with the melted piston. So now that the pistons are out of this spare block, I just checked them, and I can see that number 6 has some marks on it like black crabon build up on the top piston ring. Almost like it has been leaking compression through there.. With the piston out of the block I can see slight markings on the bore as well. Dont get me wrong, its nothing too bad, but not as good as all the other ones. I am going to hone the bore and i think it will be sweet after that. I think i should get some new piston rings too, just in case. So I will get those as well as some new bearings. The rest of the pistons look sweet, and the bearings have hardly been worn, So it looks like a relatively low k bottom end. I am wondering what anyone in my situation would do? would you go all out and get new pistons and rods as well?? I am kinda limited on funds at the moment, just like anyone else after the holidays, and I am looking at the best way that will get the car on the road as quick as possible. Should i just get the new rings, some new bearings, and put the existing pistons in, put the recon head on it (i am getting that done now) and I bought a TD06 turbo and a new 3" exhaust for it. Or should I wait a lot longer and get some new pistons etc.. I have access to a RB30 as well if i need it, but didnt want to do that just in case i run into problems, and ned heaps of other stuff like new ecu etc etc.. Any input would be good, and any pricing on parts etc.. Thanks in advance. sorry about long post.

I had recently borrowed my mates power fc kit.. for an rb25.. Power FC and a few other bits and pieces including a very large AFM. I beleive it was off a subaru of some description.. The only difference was the wires.. so after measuring the wires around, I found that I had to change signal and common wires around... worked a charm, but was only running stock boost, and was tuned for 550cc injectors.. so naturally my car was slower than with the stock afm.. I'd say try and find a larger afm with 3 wires.. Its not that difficult to change the wires around, and you should be able to get higher values.. so therefore the result that you want. Or otherwise change the thermistor inside your Z32 AFM to a different temerature co-efficient.. that might also get you higher vlaues with more boost pressure.. But yeah might have trouble with the amount of air you are able to pass through the Z32 area.. just my 20cents worth

Hehe, this formum is full on.. Sorry I am a big F1 fan, a little behind on the sau forums lately, but getting my posts up by the day.. HI ALL!!!! Yeah I think there is a very unlikely chance of McLaren actually getting kicked out.. seriously, what would it do to the sport. I think it is a little bit far fetched to think that wil happen.

Have a look at the cct board at the back when you take your dash out. follow the tracks and you'll find out they are usually labeled.. I put a R33 GTR dash into my Gtst, works cool, but needed aftermarket boost gauge, as the GTR one does not come with it built in. Stratight swap

Hmm, yeah brightness will depend on the value of the resistor used, if you are not using a 12v led.. I tried this on my R33 with good success, but I didnt like the bright on one spot, and dim on the other way that it comes up.. To get past this I used a set of 10mm led's they have a wider angle, as normal led's are usually not very wide. the 10mmled's fit in nicely, and do the job.. However soon after that my tacho started playing up (common R33 problem have seen it happen on a few cars) So i just put in a R33GTR dash, which works great. Try different resistors, or try get some wider angle led's. Use something like 1kOhm resistor, that should make the led's run at about ~ 20mA which is ideal

Hmm, correct me if i am wrong but heaps of white smoke usually means turbo. especially if you were boosting it.. I am guessing it is on its way out.. Not sure why it would have just stopped, but i am guessing a bit of oil managed to sneak past a seal. Like i said, correct me if i am wrong

All good. No need for it any more. Thanks.

Might be a little late for my comment, but anyways. I had a similar problem in my CA18det in my bluebird. I thought it was a big end, cause it sounded familiar, as I have had a CA18 with stuffed big end before.. Sold the car for cheap as it was, to find out a week later that it was the lightened flywheel coming loose. Yes I still have my legs luckily. So yeah might be another thing to check... But good luck anyways. maka.

i've got a s1 r33 afm if u want to borrow it to check it out but if u got a s2 don't think it will work. also are you running an aftermarket bov? Hi Micheal, The S1 AFM I beleive has a different plug.. I dont mind rewiring it, but I have already found a S2 one that I can use for the moment. Thanks for the reply. Yes I have a Blits BOV. maka.

Yeah, thanks for the replies. A fellow skylines australia member has offered to lend me his AFM to see if that solves my problem. I fitted it yesterday, and the car sems to be running sweet at the moment. But it happened intermittently, so i will see what happens over the weekend. I will let you guys know. In the meantime I have completely stripped my AFM, and found that the thermistor and the heat element is covered with dirt and stuff. But yeah the thermistor is stuffed too, i think its just had enough.. So I gotta see if i can find a replacement from somewhere. Let me know if anyone knows where I can get one from. Thanks guys.

HI all, Just wondering if anyone with a R33 series 2 would be keen to swap air flow meter with me for a day. Or would anyone be keen to try mine for a day? Just to try and eliminate the fault that I am having. I dont mind leaving my car at home if someone feels uncomfortable swapping, or if it causes you the same issue, you can just put yours back on, and won't have the issue any more. Its got a pod on it.. I live in riverton, but will take the air flow meter off, and take it to work with me in subiaco. Let me know if anyone is keen. Cheers. maka.

Hi Guys, I am having a problem with my R33. Its really weird, and I tried a few things, but nothing yet.. Very intermittent fault, happens randomly. And can't control when it happens. Ok, say i'm driving along normally in 4th gear at about 2.500rpm, and whilst holding the accelerator at the same level, car starts missfiring, and then after a few seconds, just looses all power, and starts slowing down.. then a few secs later just kicks back in, and its all good.. or sometimes, after it kicks back in, I press the clutch in, and watch the tacho. It cycles between 2000 and 400 RPM, which makes me think Air flow meter. Had a look, at it and nothing that was visable was wrong with it.. I have tried changing the crank angle sensor, and it did nothing. tried unplugging and cleaning contacts, but still nothing.. Tried unplugging oxy sensor.. nothing... still does the weird stuff.. Was thinking coil packs, but why would it completely cut out.. its not like a series1 where it uses a controller. I beleive the series 2 uses the ECU for this. Any ideas? is there anyone who has a spare series 2 air flow meter? just to try for a day or so.. I'm in Riverton, see skylines around there every day.. RDIRTY 2 (i'm pretty sure thats the plates. black R32) lives just around the corner.. I work in subi with Godthrila Cheers maka.

FAIR ENOUGH, Thanks heaps for your help, I just got a call from a cluch shop that I rang a few days ago, and they said they would sell me a 2400pound pressure plate, with new clutch plate and machine the flywheel for $300 do you think thats reasonable???

CRAP... HMM, the only other thing that I can think of is just using the GTR clutch plate with the Gtst flywheel and pressure plate, do you think that is possible or is there a difference in size???

yeah, the GTR is a pull type, do you know if the bell housing for the gearbox different between a push and pull type?

I forgot to mention it is a 1995 model.

Hi everyone, I've recently bought an R33 gtst, and the clutch has started slipping pretty badly.. probably the amount of times spent at the drags (14.4 @ 96.5mph, stock...), I'm just interested in wether the R33 gtst uses a pull or push type clutch, I have bought a R33 GTR clutch, just cause it came up at a cheap price, and I'm wondering if it will fit. it would be good to know before I pull the box off. All info appreciated, Mark.