Kwyjibo

At the wheels. For reference on a very safe tune with an HKS2530, fuel pump, injectors, AFM etc on a relatively good condition RB20 at 14psi bleeding down to 12 I got 175kw-180kw on a 33c degree day. Pulled 195kw at 16psi with massive misfires due to coils. Could be a freak engine but its hard to imagine getting that much power out of a standard turbo.

+1 to not upping fuel more than you need too. In the 7 or so kilometers to the tuner I managed to foul my plugs because I was worried about it running too lean. Ended up costing me more as I need to get a touch up tune done at the boost levels I was looking for without any misfire.

Hey I sent you a PM. I have a standard for sale if you would like it.

Sorry skyyyz someone just beat you to it. Will let you know if sale doesn't go ahead. Z32 AFM is now sold, just waiting for payment to process.

I probably wouldn't recommend getting under a car with just jacks supporting it no matter how good they are. You can pick up a decent pair of car stands for about $40 and could save you from being crushed by your own car.

Dropping to $130 now. Also have some RB20 injectors for sale - $30 for these.

Bump, need a quick sale so dropping to $150.

Just had a look at other Z32 AFM's on here so dropping price to $170. Cheers, Adrian

Hey guys, Looking for some Splitfire coilpacks for my R32 gts-t. Apparently ones for a series 1 RB25 or RB26 also fits. Please give me a call on 0430 508 321 or PM me if you have some available. Cheers, Adrian

Hi, For sale is a used Z32 AFM, in original box. Reason for sale is originally I thought it was fake due to its idle voltage being almost identical to my standard R32 but then found this is normal. Due to this I ended up buying another Z32 AFM with my ECU. Car seems to run the same regardless of which Z32 AFM I use. It does not come with the plug. $200 + delivery O.N.O Please contact me on 0430 508 321 or by PM. Cheers, Adrian

Hey guys, I'm looking to swap my coilpacks for some Splitfires just for a day. I got a tune today and fell 4psi short of what I was going to run due to misfire. I wanna get the next tune out of the way quick and then not drive the car much after so if someone has some Splitfires that we could do a quick swap with that should be great. Its an R32gts-t so RB25 series 1's and RB26 coils will be fine. Cheers, Adrian

Standard RB20DET HKS2530 GTR Injectors Bosch 040 Fuel Pump Z32 AFM CoolingPro Intercooler 175-180rwkw at 14psi with slight misfire. Getting retuned at 18psi once I have unfouled plugs and some Splitfire coils.

I got a shop to do a similar thing for an HKS split dump on an HKS turbo(thought it would have fit). They just welded in two threads from some bolts.

I agree with the HKS2530. I have just put one in including fuel pump/afm/injectors etc and its getting tuned tomorrow. Just driving around normally it seems to come onto low boost only 300rpm or so later than the standard.

Hi, Just wondering if the radiator drain plug for an R32 gts-t should have some sort of o-ring? I seem to remember it having one when I pulled it out after doing a timing belt change but I put it back in without one and now I'm getting a slight coolant leak from there. I can turn the plug right around until it starts to leak again so I'm hoping it hasn't been threaded, plug seems ok though:/ Cheers, Adrian

I'll take the right hand side clear indicator for R32 if Hunting Lions takes the left. $40 + delivery due to the crack?

Bump. Will sell the standard RB20 actuator separate, runs about 11 PSI without controller, make an offer. Also have the front spoiler motors and wiring - $70 ono. Sorry should note that exhaust is sold.

Poor line-up this year and only one night! A-league is in Canberra that night so will be going to that instead, I'll stick to Foreshore and Winter Warehouse for my Canberra festival fix.

See if you can get a consult cable hooked up to a laptop to log AFM voltages. The wiring could be dodgy and dropping voltage at times.

Even if you can't sell it any information posted would be great. Just built an RB20 with an RB20 PowerFC but looking at going RB25 as soon as I kill this. I want to keep the computer as the FC's are rare and its much easier to keep the RB20 ECU than rewire in a RB25 one.

$50 electric impact wrench from Dick Smith, surprisingly good and has had no trouble removing these, fly wheel bolts or anything I have had trouble removing even with a huge breaker.

I have a 'Zeloo'? or something clutch plate which is in pretty decent nick. The pressure plate is broken though. I'll sell it for about $30 if you want or make me an offer.

Thanks for the help everyone. Cheers, Adrian

Alright I pulled out CAS and put it back in then reset timing to 15 degrees and noise has quitened to the point where I can only hear it slightly if bonnet is open and I lean in towards the cam/intake valve cover area. I opened the oil cap and its defintely coming from intake side but its so quiet now I'm not particularly worried about it as its probably a different noise all together and had I not been listening out for it I never would have noticed it. I ran the car with cam cover off and some spacers to see if anything is fouling and it all looks good. Can anyone tell me exactly how to tell if timing belt is correct tightness though? Its making a whirring sound which some people say is common with Gates belts that are slightly too tight.

Well I guess one of the issues is I'm not 100% sure how tight it should be. I can move it about 5mm using one finger which is what seemed to be recommended on here. Idler/tensioner were changed 15,000 km ago.