Kwyjibo

Thanks I'll check that out. I also just noticed that it doesn't make a noise when revs are dropping, only when hodling steady or rising. Cheers, Adrian

Hi, Just installed a set of adjustable cam gears and am now getting quite a loud ticking noise that sounds like very loud lifter noise. Car has never had lifters that loud so just asking for suggestions on what to check when I take the cam covers back off. All timing is fine(marks were lined up, ignition timing looks good) and I'm quite sure belts are tensioned correctly. The sound increases in frequency as the revs increase. I can't think of anything that would actually affect the lifters noise wise if timing is correct. Engine is an RB20DET and its idling perfectly fine and revving fine regardless of the noise. Cheers, Adrian

I have a new clutch thrust bearing for sale, it's the push type. Its for an RB20 but I understand it fits RB25's for R33's as well, don't think it suits R34's. Will also suit an RB30. I bought it as my old one was making noise, now I've found my pressure plate is screwed as well so bought a whole new clutch kit which comes with the bearing. Looking for around $20 + delivery, bought it for $35 from Repco. Please PM me or call on 0430 508 321, located in Canberra. Cheers, Adrian

Cool, thanks for the help

Yeah sorry thats exactly what I mean't. I was worried about leaving it in though as I imagine its quite a bit of force pushing it and I didn't want to destroy the thread on the crankshaft bolt or what it screws into.

Hey, In the process of removing the crankshaft pulley but I'm having an issue with my harmonic balancer puller. Even with the puller flush against the balancer the bolt is not long enough. The only thing that is the right size to put in there is the crankshaft pulley bolt itself. Is it safe to thread this halfway in as I imagine once the crankshaft pulley has moved it will be much easier to get off. I'm just worried that the threads may be damaged if I do this. Cheers, Adrian

Cool thanks, didn't even think to check that, just measured and its about 3" so I'd say its one of the X-Force ones. Only has an HKS2530 on it, I'll be lucky to hit above 230rwkw so I'm sure this will do.

Hey, I'm getting a tune for my new setup in two weeks, when I first bought the car it had 3"turbo back x-force exhaust and I assumed this included the cat converter. In doing some check overs today I realised that I never actually made sure I have a high flow cat. Does anyone know how to tell? Here is a pic of mine from side and looking into it, as well as a pic of the X-Force ones which actually seem to look the same except with no hole for the sensor. I'm assuming the fact that it has the sensor in it that it is standard? Cheers, Adrian

Hi, Just wondering what is the true injector latency for RB20 injectors. In Paul's FAQ it says 0.89ms but there are also some places saying 0.7ms. Any help would be welcome. Cheers, Adrian

I understand that the factory restrictors are only on the R32's though but correct me if I'm wrong. I thought that the RB25 had a non BB turbo so didn't need a restrictor.

The tutorial for RB25's is here here but it seems as if yours is the only one for RB26/RB20's. People in the tutorial I linked seem to be talking about hyrdolocking due to fuel leaking past the o-rings. I imagine this is because of the side feed rail though as it seems like the rail itself connects to the head rather than just sitting on top of the injectors. Cheers, Adrian

I'm just in the process of going from RB20 to RB26 injectors and looking at the 'Injector change' tutorial people are talking about hydrolocking their engines due to leaks past the o-rings but as far as I can tell these are all RB25's. Having a look at the top feed rail though I don't see how this would be possible on the RB20/26 due to leakage. As the rail itself sits on the top of the injectors fuel may leak out into the engine bay. The only way I can see any extra fuel flowing into the cylinder is if the upper seal leaks, the fuel runs along the outside of the injector(in the engine bay) and then back through the lower o-rings which would be very hard to get any more than a few mls of fuel in. Am I right in thinking this? Cheers, Adrian

Your inbox is currently full, sent you a SMS. Cheers, Adrian

Pretty sure the mesh is just there to protect a delicate sensor, its unlikely the mesh would affect airflow in any reasonable way. My understanding is the sensor itself just checks how quickly the passing air cools the wire. I'm by no means an expert but if this is the case the only problem with not having a mesh is less protection of the sensor itself.

No worries thats probably why I got no reply from him:p

Hey mate, Made you an offer on the resistor pack if you will sell it separately. Did you get my PM? Cheers, Adrian

Cool thanks for the help. Guess its something past my ability so will get the tuner to check it out.

Relax, no need to be like that. Above I posted I dropped it 2, and then 4 degrees retarded and exactly the same thing keeps happening, no change in knock. I'll just drive it there. Still am interested to know if anybody has any theories as to what could cause this spike to happen in an engine when you back off, lets say after it HAS been tuned. Sorry for the newbie questions but I am a Software developer, not a mechanic and I'm building this car up as a hobby so I have much to learn and the best way is too read and ask questions.

Sorry I guess my original question should have been 'do you think this will be safe to drive to the tuners'. I am wondering if it is usual for knock to go up when letting off the throttle. I know the numbers are going to be screwy before getting a tune but if I drive its 10km and I don't want to destroy my engine in the process.

Ok thanks. Yeah I have a second car so not driving it is not an issue but I was a bit worried about the drive to the tuners as it is about 10km away.

Nope. Just took it around the block a couple of times to make sure it was running ok after putting some stuff back together. I want to make sure everything is sorted and working properly before I spend money on a tune. Basically I just checked that its running safe AFR's for the drive to the tuner but then noticed this funny situation. My impressions from the Power FC faq is that the standard maps are pretty similar to the standard ECU. But seriously can someone tell me if I should be worrying that knock jumps up under absolutely no load but is fine off load? I would have thought premature ignition is bad at all times but I'm not very mechanically minded and the FAQ indicates otherwise.

With a HKS2530 I hit 92% injector duty at 5500rpm on about 12 psi so I defintely wouldn't recommend going 220kw on standard injectors. I probably wasn't even hitting 180kw at the time.

Haven't actually adjusted it from standard yet. Pretty much just finished all my mods and I'm about to organise my tune. It defintely feels as if the timing is much more retarded than my original ECU as it is a lot less snappy. I did try doing the temp ignition correction for one small drive(+2 and then +4) and it brought it back to how it felt previously and knock levels stayed exactly the same. Of course don't know how this would affect medium to high load situations as I didn't want to risk it. I think I'll just talk to my tuner to make sure its safe.

Yeah I guess dodgy is the wrong word. Basically I understand readings can vary greatly engine to engine due to minor differences in sensitivity and differing engine noises.

Hey, Have checked Paul's FAQ page and done a search but can't find anything on this. I know the knock sensors are fairly dodgy but I'm noticing that I get spikes of up to '40' knock when I come off throttle on my PFC. I also get knock of around 20-30 when coasting with absolutely no throttle. As soon as I open the throttle this drops to below 15 right through the rev range. Just wondering if this is normal? I have heard knocking at low revs/load isn't *as bad as at higher loads but I would have thought getting knock anywhere still means premature ignition and damage to pistons. If this is the case where would I look at reducing timing? Just wherever the map tracer is sitting when coasting? Cheers, Adrian