Waldo

hey mate, yeah its a high flowed stock turbo, with steel wheels but NOT ball bearing. and yes the tuner said it might be the actuator, so i bought a hks adjustable one, but it still does it...although i can get it to hit 1.5bar of boost with the hks item but it drops straight back down to around 12-14psi after it spikes.

would one of these hks 2835 pro's be to big for an rb20, would i see full boost by 4000-4500 rpm??

yeah i still dont know wat it is, i have been checking all the vacuum lines for leaks, the only thing i havent checked is pluggin up the stock bov and putting big bolt clamps on the cooler piping

man my engine must be buggered or sumthin...i have a high flowed turbo (not a GCG) but loooks exactly like it, and im only making 245rwhp and thats with tomei cams and 14psi and power fc....anybody know wat could be my prob?can i have a buggered head gasket? or could it be the rings?

hey guys im trying to figure out a problem, im trying to run around 19 - 20psi through my high flowed turbo, but when the tuners tried to tune it for that they said that it would spike to 20psi but then drop back to around 12psi - 14psi, they said there is no leak in the intercooler piping because they would have seen a change on the dyno readout, they thought it was my actuator so i went out and bought a hks adjustable one and im using the apexi power fc boost kit. Does anybody have any idea why boost drops off that much? could the stock bov be opening up?

wats an s/c kit

$1800

19x9 inch Advanti Moda chrome rims for sale, with tyres, perfect condition, not a scratch on them anywhere no gutter rash, tyres 60% tread left, they are 5 stud 114.5 to suit nissan or anything with same stud pattern Location Brisbane...will post if required. Price: $1600 open to reasonable offers PICS: http://img467.imageshack.us/my.php?image=320cd.jpg

Hey guys on the hicas matter i have a 32, and i completly removed eveything to do with hicas and installed a lock bar, this includes chnagin the power steering pump, but one thing i did find is that as soon as you unplug the hicas computer the steering goes really heavy, and leaving the computer in makes the steering go heavy at higher speeds...now to the point....if you just want really light steering all the time i figured out using trial and error, that there is a little variable solenoid on the front rack, this is controlled by the hicas computer. if you unbolt the small solenoid (3 allen key bolts) you will find 2 holes which allows fluid to pass through when the solenoid isnt energized, and when you pick up speed this valve closes slightely causing the steering to get soft....so to have soft steering with the hicas computer out you have to take the solenoid off the rack and cut out a plate to cover the holes (steering is nice and soft when these holes are cover) this stops fluid travelling out one hole then through the solenoid and into the other hole....you simply have to bog up the holes with sumthing....i used a alluminium plate and just drilled 3 holes in it to line up.....and thats all there is to it to have soft steering with hicas computer removed!

see i am using the hks actuator and an apexi power fc bost kit, and am unsure on how the adjustable actuator setup works, if you shorten the rod heaps the wastegate doesnt open up very far when its on full boost...wouldnt this cause boost creep?

cheers mate

hey guys im just about to put my hks actuator on, now how do i go about setting this up (rod length) i need it to hold 18psi with boost controller as stock one didnt hold any more than 12 -13psi, to make it stronger do i wind the rod in closer so it holds the wastegate closed harder?

for sale is a genuine brand new blitz dd bov still in box never used, willing to swap for secondhand hks ssqv with rb20 adaptor or greddy type s bov. Location: Brisbane Price $280

hey r31 power i just had a hks actuator lying around and the rod fully extended measures 19.5cm and its minimum was 16.5cm hope this helps

hey mate i have a brand new genuine blitz bov never used, ill trade you if you want?

hey guys im bloody sick to death of trying to find out why my power steering "jolts" when i start to turn a direction. the problem i have is that when i go to turn the wheel it jolts then moves freely as if the power steering is working fine. but i want to eliminate the jolting, i have put a hicas lock bar in and removed all the hydraulic lines and changed the power steering pump to a non hicas r31 pump, this method seemed to work fine until i reached around 70k's then it would seem to be that the power steering would go harder or turn off, which i really dont want and is not good for drifting. I was fidling around with the module that is on the steering rack (looks like a motor and has 2 wires coming off it) does anybody know what this does or how it works?

up for sale is a genuine R32 GTR front bar, its in great condition, colour painted is wine red, and it also has custom stainless bars going across the mouth of the front bar. Location = Brisbane Price = $300 or will trade for a set of genuine GTR front gaurds or GTR bonnet http://img411.imageshack.us/my.php?image=frontbar9xu.jpg

i got my 32 tuned the other week, it pulled 175rwkw on 12psi and boost come on at around 4000rpm. my mods are: tomei cams high flowed non ball bearing turbo gtr injectors power fc hks intercooler 3.5inch exhuast splitfire coilpacks bosch 040 fuel pump. soon ill be swapping turboes and going a gt3071r

hey mate with the gt30 you bought did you get an external gated version or did you buy the custom made internall gate. 63 housing from horsepowerinabox.com

hmm i never relaly considered the gt30r on an rb20det, i probably have the same mods as you (besides gt30r) i have tomei cams aswell. 288rwkw is damn impressive, atm im pullin 175rwkw with my high flowed turbo and its only running 12psi, dont think there is much left in it even if i run 18psi. so im looking to upgrade to a turbo that hits full boost by 4500rpm and can pump out 250rwkw.

it took mine 6 hours, and had to leave it over night for a cold start tune the next morning

hmm i was reading that someone got 254rwkw outta his rb20 with a gt3071 that might seem the go.

hey guys just wondeing wat you think about sticking a Garrett GT3040R on a Rb20 with all supporting mods including tomei poncams, how do you think it would go? and a rough power estimate and rpm when it hits full boost.

wat size exhuast housing did you get with it, if you got the .86 housing i bet that is causing it to be slightly laggy

does roy have an internal gate one or external