zebra

SOLD!!! Ill make a list of anything left over next week.

Soooooo...1500kgs of Girlfriend plus 1400kgs of R32 plus fuel and you...no wonder the old rb20 struggles.

Ok due to lack of time and a few people pulling out of buying things. for 1500 bucks you get everything thats left inculding the shell, thats RB25 long motor, fresh RB30 Short motor, OS GIKEN Twin plate, Gearbox, brakes, diff, etc etc. So bring a trailer and some wheels and get it out of my sight.

So you think that the Sydney guys that come down are just going to change their attitude entirely when they reach the ACT border? and when was "JDM Style" in a movie?

All I can say is go live in Sydney like I used to...you will soon feel the same way as me. And as for $$ for Canberra...well 4-5cars so maybe 10-15 people really isn't going to do much for the economy. Thats what Summernats is for. And I know what the f**k JDM stands for, but in context it means Styled the way the Japanese do, i.e JDM Style

To fit the coil packs you would need an igniter and a heap of wiring changes. I have a 40(ish)mm thick Alloy radiator $120 pick up only its too big and fragile to post imo

$175 for the diff

Also, any more pics of the front suspension? looking at using the front uprights/hubs off the 33 on the front end. Thanks

For NA RB stuff im not sure tbh, might need to grab a stuffed head cheap and get a head workshop to have a play with the ports.

Dammit Brad - you have made me do bad things!!! Im now starting to get stuff together for a lotus 7 thing....Damn space frame threads!1221 lol Oh and did you get my message about the 33 shell?

$3k+ if you find someone who knows what they are doing

Oh dear

I'd say there was no limiter set to avoid breaking the oil pump

Cant make it, sorry mate

This is a race car though, and the way to do a race car exhaust is just dump the exhaust primary's into the biggest bastard exhaust system you can fit under the car, who cares if the car feels a bit weak driving around the pit garages, the actual exhaust pipe has very little to do with how the car makes power, thats all in the primaries ala extractors.

Then add $2k to get it all aligned properly

Ill be in syd Sat night...If i can find somewhere to stay ill be happy to help out.

If you went with whitline sway bars you could save yourself $500 which is 1 tyre Get Autometer Gauges instead of Defi - another $500 so theres 2 tyres straight up, with no performance disadvantage

290deg total duration would be a good starting point for an angry NA engine, would need a solid lifter conversion if you were to use a 25 head, or a bucket over shim setup for a 26 and something around 11mm lift, it would need a bit of clearancing of the head. Best bet would be to speak to a top notch head builder about port work etc as they will really determine what cams will work and a cam grinder will want to know the flow numbers of the head at different lifts. We can only help you so much over the internets, as im not a cam manufacturer and without seeing flow numbers of the ports its just guess work. 1 more thing - spend more money on the head than the bottom end, as that is where the power is produced.

Yep, as it munches on oil pumps, bearings and ring lands lol

Would be cheaper to buy one in Canada than ship it from here tbh, but if you are keen I can get some pics for you.

That sounds like a good combo, but the 13.5:1 comp may be a might much for a circuit car that needs to run hard for lap after lap on petroleum, 13:1 would be fine for alchohol or E85 though, not sure if IPRA QLD allows E85 or not. and could prob go bigger on the cams for an atmo engine, get something made to suit a non turbo. Oh and forget the N1 pump, spend the $$$ on an external pump at a minimum unless you wanna rebuild it after every event Dry sump would be even better.

If its for p-plates...which I guess it is..then NO

Was that aimed at me Ash? If so by driven hard im mean run up on the dyno and tuned, not putting around for 5000ks and then tune it Edit - Nice edit

They need to be driven hard to bed the rings in...being soft on them leads to a crap ring seal. Plus with bearing and ring quality these days they a basically "run in" 10secs after they are started.