dave_rb20

It would be nice if they painted some lines onto the reworked section of Tonkin Hwy southbound from the airport... Nothing like doing 110km/h at night with no street lamps, no lane markings & some taxi driver is tailgating you + blinding you with high beams despite the fact you're doing 10k's faster then you should be. In fact f**k the lane markings, just ban taxi drivers Tony de Wonderful- Those barriers are called armco and are not exactly safe, watch the Fifth gear episode where they demonstrate how cars can flip over them instead of the barriers absorbing energy like they should..

I have the same issue (S1.5 to S2 conversion) Interested in hearing if there's an answer to this. I am half temped to drill a hole in the back of the ashtray and manually wire up a toggle switch there. Seems like a rough solution though

steering coloumn is easy to get off, 6-8 screws im no electrical genius either but before you fork out $$$ it would make sense to see if its anything obvious/easy have you checked headlight plugs maybe something has come loose and is rubbing/shorting on the engine bay

dont forget you will have to send your flywheel off to be machined, costs about $40 I've had both button and organic clutches and prefer the organic feels less harsh on drivetrain and still has good weight to it they both are a huge improvement over the factory clutch ps shop around you might be able to get it done at a mechanics for a good rate. from what i've heard there's bit of a knack to clutches. might need a clutch alignment tool and try to make sure you get a clutch kit that includes the thrust bearing (noisey one was reason i did my clutch in the first place) I was in same situation as you (tight on $$) but it was worth every penny to f**k that noisey bearing off. also slipping clutches are no fun either took me like 3 months to save up

thanks guys, was exactly as described ps did it with the washer bottle still in place took about 15mins tho now i realise why the last owner didn't fix it lol, pain in the arse even had odd globes left to right all good headlights are now symmetrical again

yeah same as headlights then might have to remove windscreen washer bottle for access the holders for high/low beams are pretty obvious maybe the park lights are a different style/smaller? will have another look will take a pic if i figure it out cheers -dave

G'day, I had a blown drivers side headlight, replaced that which was fairly straightforward. The park light on that side is blown as well but I can't figure out how to remove the bulb. Can unplug the wires from the back but does it pop out from inside the engine bay or from the front of the headlight assembly somehow? Don't want to snap or break anything lol Much appreciated, -dave

I don't get it Does double demerits during Christmas period mean that outside the holiday season I can be half as careful? Sends the wrong message, and is a relic from when they tried to double the monetary fines but failed due to public backlash

I'm on a budget but have similar setup running 10psi with no dramas on r33 with catback and r34 smic next step is dump, fuel pump and safcii 12psi should be fine as long as your not doing circuit work, eg constantly on boost. Occasional blat like on public roads won't get ur egt's that high interested in results rb25 owners have from vg30 steel wheel turbos. Seem to go cheap and bit tougher

Do you have a reliable 2nd car? I would probably cash in rego, use the $$$ to fund an engine crane (assuming you already have tools) and have a go at it yourself. Then just have mobile auto electrician come out to wire it up. Take it over pits and enjoy again. Also... I used KYP to change my timing belt and water pump and they did an OK job. However they quoted me 1200 to fit a heavy duty clutch. Where as hyperdrive did it for 950 and did excellent work including replacing gearbox oil for an extra $30. KYP are not always cheapest, just shop around.

www.psiparts.com.au have heaps of r33 stuff at good prices. eg carbon fibre lip spoilers for $300 never used them though so don't know what shipping is like.

I will try come to first meet point at least, have a chat If people drive sensibly I will stick around Gotta drive from Willeton to Wanneroo to help my boss build his new gazebo, 7am start though... so probably have to leave around midnight Hopefully this is a good start to summer cruising season!

Is there any warning signs I can look for? with 10w40 the oil pressure gauge is sitting literally right on the top on cold start then warm on hot day it sits exactly at the line that's between 4 and 0 might have to look into oil cooler... I do drive pretty sedately anyway (live 6km from work, just drive there and back, prob hit boost 3-4 times each way?) but if I can save my engine with a $400 oil cooler ....... why wouldn't you?

fair call I don't know if they're up for expensive rebuilds every few months. still seem to perform ok though? and yes heat soak is f**ked... i have r34smic, was hoping to save up for fmic before summer hit but it didn't happen. am I best off just nursing it during the day? I noticed there's a thread in the DIY/FAQ section about bypassing the coolant that usually runs through the intake manifold to bring down temps. Is worthwhile?

gday, This is the first time I've owned a turbo car (R33 gts25t) during a summer, especially in Perth can get very hot (40deg+ during January). Are there any special precautions I need to take? I am running fresh 10w40w mobil oil (152kkm on motor). Coolant level is good, thermostat is fine. I do have an exposed pod filter though. We had our first taste of the hot weather last week, 36degs. Car seemed to run fine with no missing or knocking audible. I even hit boost (10psi) a couple of times and the car seemed to run well but obviously not as quick as a cool/cold day. I'm a bit hesitant to 'thrash it' in this weather, but then you look at events like Motorvation with big $$$ turbo cars sitting on rev limiter in this kind of weather, and they don't have any problems. Just makes me wonder is it really that bad to give it stick in this climate? Is it worth changing to a different weight oil or something? Any other precautions I can take? Other then monitoring oil pressure and water temperature. Am I just being paranoid? cheers -dave

apparantly boost spikes I'm still getting one though, my R33 is only mildly worked and apparantly split pulse means it won't have that R33 midrange lag as bad. Then again I still have factory front pipe so anything will be an improvement

alot of hate in this thread! hahah

yeah r33 totally suck i mean, who would want 500cc more engine capacity larger standard turbo tougher gearbox bigger brakes battery in boot versus total peices of crap. burn them alive I say. I just can't seem to figure out why there are more on the roads then the god-like 32.

I have a kakimoto cat-back, sounds really good. Nice RB burble with no drone at all. Be interesting to see if engine note changes when I fit stainless dump and high-flow cat.

that advice is spot on. thanks mate, helped me to put my digital tacho in by myself. don't seem to have the same 5v versus 12v problems as everyone else though. it's the $99 dollar one from justjap, inbuilt shift light too

squeaky clutch bonnet alignment on the piss idles high (950-1000rpm) still love it tho!

ECU pinout 7..

On mine that front plenum connection seems to go to a charcoal cannister. Is it worth disconnecting this and bending the hose around to a U joint and reconnecting it to bypass this? Or am I wasting my time?

I was looking at that route before when I was tidying up engine bay. might just do it The gauge is not autometer it's their cheaper product autogauge...was sort of an impulse purchase because the price was right. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=267&page=1 I think it's like a defi knock-off. smoked face. heard a few complaints that they're hard to read during the day but I will make my own decision. gotta be better then my current situation of manual boost controller + no gauge.. thanks fellas, will try and keep it off my mind til the parcel arrives. then see what's in it and make my decision from there.

If I don't care about the factory boost gauge in dash... Can I just run a straight line from it? If not... where do I get the t-peice from?