Edge

I will be making direct online deposit tonight.

OK so then I need H4 bulbs. I'm going to want 4300K. Nismo15 - Which ones for this price? Would I get High/Low HID? Last question. Who do we go to for that 1 year warranty?

Thanks, I'm even happier I'm getting one now.

I've been reading up on this and after reading the following page - swap hxxp to http first hxxp://www.xenonlightshid.com/index.asp This suggests that ballasts are unecessary for Xenon. So I am now wondering what the ballasts do? Could they be only required for H4 or 9004 or 9007 ie. low/high dual bulbs? Other reading seems to indicate that they are used for dimming. hxxp://www.universalballast.com/productLines/ballast/hid.html (mentions different metal halide sodium etc) I am assuming plays a part in ignition of the bulb. So do Xenon really require ballasts? For 4door skyline r33 series 2 seem to have dual fillament bulbs, though I havn't pulled them out yet on the 4dr the headlights are not smooth but refractors instead. High beam comes from the same bulb spot when looking from the front.

BNXSH just because you bought a non turbo doesn't mean you should agree with the laws because they are wrong. These are useless laws that should be abolished in favour of laws that actually help save lives like driver safety training courses. Even in your non turbo you will probably try to learn the limits of your car on the street, every driver should know the limits of their car and thus know how to drive safely within those limits. Speed limits do not do this for you.

Do the air temp sensor probes use the same type of compression gland as the EGT thermocouple? What sort of thermocouple to use in that sandwich plate for oil temp, can you supply?

Are the low and high beams two seperate bulbs?

Read some more of the posts on here so I would like to seperately add that legislating the car doesn't help, it all comes down to driving well within the cars limits, but also knowing the limits of the car (whichever you are in and each car is different). Training helps you understand the true limits of a car and how to handle it when they are exceeded as well as comprehend the value of staying well within the limits to give increased safety margin. After all accidents happen when the capability to handle a situation is exceeded (expected or not). Experience helps with the comprehansion of unexpected situations which lead to you adjusting your driving including driving slower in risky environments. However this experience typically comes after having and seeing numerous accidents and several years of risky driving. This can be alleviated by providing compulsory training of socially minded responsible driving, where the differences between expected capabilites being exceeded and coping strategies and unexpected dangers and coping strategies are explained. The consequences of attitude with regard to adopting skilled interpretation of risks should also be explained. One of the most effective negative result is the cost. The reason to start training early at 14yo is to address the issue before emotional problems develop later at 16yo where ego is a confusing and sometimes even suicidal risk factor.

This is serious, safety driver training requiring a serious attitude to public responsibility to get your licence is the only way to go and must start at 14yo not later. High powered cars reduce speeding! Has anyone actually compared statistics to show that high powered cars speed more? I always found that if you have an underpowered car you tend to speed more because instead of slowing down for intersections, pedestrians and other risky situations etc., you take risks in order to maintain your speed because its such a pain waiting to regain speed again. The law is currently a political victimisation of minorities who own imported performance cars, and has obviously had a negative effect on safety in reality, it helps with justification of the highway robbery of speed cameras and the false argument that speed kills. What should be happening is government spending in driver safety training courses, instead of revenue raising justification. YOUNG DRIVERS TRAINING TRAINING TRAINING CALL ON POLITICIANS TO START BEING SOCIALLY MINDED

I'm interested to get one with all the thermocouple and gland and sensors included, washer thermocouple for oil temp, and both air temp sensors. Q'n if using a intake air temp sensor should I install a second sensor next to it or can I connect this and an Engine Mangement Computer to the same sensor?

Put me in for a RB25 exhaust one in blue please. I thought duralumin was two times harder and four times as heat resistant or something? But the price is right and sounds like it is suited to the job.

where do I look at the legislation?

As far as i know 35% light throughput is legal for your front windscreen darker is ok for rear windows. reflective vs non reflective which is better?

How do these compare to Tomei duralumin ones? Are these harder or softer as durable? Are hard anodized ones harder than nickel plated? Does it make any difference in the long term or for very big power? I'm interested in an R33gtst exhaust one.

Can you do sills for 4 door R33 gtst?

Can these just plug directly in to replace where the orginal bulb is? Extra stuff hanging out the back doesn't bother me but is it otherwise a simple plug in thing. How bright are these compared to the original bulbs? What frequency is the best or what frequency are these at this price? Does 8000-10000kHz give more reflection off fluorescent signs?

I just replaced my ABS motor unit but noticed that the replacement seems to be from a series one and is smaller than the original I had, would the performance of ABS be different? The original ABS motor unit I had never really worked properly so I can't compare myself.

Thanks and the bolts are to bolt the gearbox on

You don't need a manual ECU! The ECU you have already will run your engine perfectly. The auto ECU is in the boot behind the seat but you don't even have to remove it since it just won't be doing any gear changes anyway. edit - The main ECU is just in fron tof the passenger door under the kick panel, in other words there are two ECU's - one for manual and an extra one for auto. Parts list tail shaft or tail shaft yoke gearstick surrounds and inner and outer boot clutch and brake pedals stick and gearbox slave cylinder master cyliner ( I think) lines clutch gear stick knob You could go for the full conversion kit second hand above for less than $3000 AUD before shipping. There are plenty of suppliers in Australia that will supply you parts to the US. If you need help with this feel free to pm me. While its not too hard to find most of the conversion parts it is becoming harder to find second hand gearboxes here - so for your reference its $3000 AUD for a brand new manual gearbox (just the gearbox) not including shipping. Some extreme high quality clutches are made in Australia and you can get an ultralight 4.5kg chromolly flywheel and clutch together for a tad over $1000 AUD 12kg total weight for parcel including both. Choice of clutch should be organic if your cars power is only lightly modified as you will have smooth clutch take up without shudder.

Get them to increase your freeplay on your clutch. Revving quicker is a good thing, gives you ability to change gears quicker as the revs drop faster. So I should do a manual licensing thing? What benefits come from this? Is this done by the RTA?

Yep received mine was real quick, left you a positive trader feedback, would you mind leaving a trader feedback for me too, thanks.

Why is it not ok to connect a head unit using a loom converter and just use the factory earth through the loom? Is it really necessary to earth the head unit directly to the chassis? Does this remove alternator noise not associated with the RCA's positioning? Does an apexi super grounding system help to eliminate alternator noise? A small 10cm long capacitor used inline with the power to my amp reduced the spark plug noise by 1/2 but did not completely eliminate it. Would getting one of those giant 30cm long lightning stick capacitors work for me? My battery is in the engine bay, does adding an extra battery in the boot in the way of the power to the amp help?

I'm asking the same question What sort to get? Have an R33 4 door alarm features wanted - window break sensors capable of picking up the door handle being let to spring back abruply when someone lets go due to the door being locked. - shock sensors capable of picking up wheel lug nuts being hit when someone tries to steal the wheels. - auto arm windows wind up and lock if forget to arm the car - comes with a turbo timer built in - tilt sensors for anti towing protection - has a radio remote or gsm phone ability to let me know of an incident and identify the sensors activated to me. - bonnet and door open sensors - ultrasonic interior movement detectors - anti hijack feature which kicks in 30 seconds later to utilise 3 point immobiliser Sydney install required

At least it doesn't sound like there are very big queues to deal with.

Yeah I want DS 2500 Feroddo pads - lets do a group buy! I heard these are distributed in the ACT, anyone know their number or should we try importing them as a group buy?