sy300

I haven't had any trouble starting mine when the fuel light has been on, even for some time. The most I've put in is 64l.

Auckland, NZ

What do you mean 'Stageas in NZ are like Commodores here'? There are not that many Stageas here in NZ. As for most of them being 'clapped out' I would have to disagree. I searched for mine and drove a few, most were around 100,000 (verified) km but still in good condition. I have only seen a couple of modified 'show car' Stageas here in NZ. I bought my '98 RS4 with 113,000 km for NZ$13,000. Which was quite a good deal.

What size and make/style are the wheels? I am looking for some wheels to replace my stock ones.

Rust under the wing mirrors.

I was told that the gauges are totally electric, i.e. no hoses. So I guess it hooks onto the boost sensor. GTR has oil temp in place of voltage. No idea where oil temp is taken from.

I was told that the gauges are totally electric, i.e. no hoses. So I guess it hooks onto the boost sensor. GTR has oil temp in place of voltage. No idea where oil temp is taken from.

This topic has been done before, but the answer I'm looking for wasn't there. I may be able to get a GTR 3-gauge cluster (boost, oil temp and torque split) and was wondering if they can be installed in a Series 1. I think they come installed in Series 2's, but with Battery Voltage instead of oil temp. If they can be installed on a Series 1, where do you hook everything up to? I'm pretty sure they come with a plug in the back, so does anyone know what goes where?

I'm 30 going on 20. Sometimes I feel old, like when some 'youngster' runs around me on the league field and I can't catch them like I could a few years ago. Ahhh, the vigour of youth.

Some of my mates hassle me about owning a 'block of flats on wheels', but I love the car. I was looking for a wagon, but didn't want a Subaru (be like every 2nd person here in NZ) and the Legnum VR4's are pretty unreliable apparently. Both of them cost about 3-4 grand more for the same year/km's and are smaller. As for Falcon/Commadore, no where near the same technology for the price.

I was driving on some loose gravel the other day playing around with Synchro off and on. With it off the car still got sideways fairly easily, and spun the wheels when flooring it from a standstill. With it on the car spun the wheels noticeably less when taking off and was not as easy to get sideways. All of this was done with the trans in normal (i.e neither power or snow)

Mine has the Dayz kit already. I thought it was just a factory option kit, but now I know.

I thought that if the A/C is in Maunal, the Compressor doesn't come on unless you push the 'A/C' button. If that is the case, if you select a temp that is lower than the outside, outside air will blow in. If you select a temp warmer than outside, the air will be diverted through the heater. Does this sound correct?

A luggage fan? What the hell?

Mines not reflective. I thought it was for when you are pulled over on the side of the road as well, until I found it wasn't reflective. The japanese think of lots of little features like that. My previous car ('92 300ZX) had electrically heated wing mirrors, they de-misted the mirrors when the rear window de-mister was on. Never thought I'd miss that, but I do. It's very useful when you have to reverse down your drive on cold, misty mornings. Are heated wing mirrors an option on the Stagea?

The spare wheel cover on mine has a plastic cover under it with Stagea emblems on it. It covers the foam on the inside of the spare wheel cover. I can't see the same on yours.

In NZ you can get the odometer verified. It might pay to see if someone can do the same in Oz. I got mine with 113,000 and full Japanese servicing records (log book). Can't read Japanese, but km's are readable, and they match the verified odometer. This was a big problem in NZ a while ago. Lots of Jap imports had the clock wound back. Not so much now, most dealers get the odometer verified and have certificate.

Thanks for that info. Just weighing up my options. I have to be careful what I do as the car still has a mechanical warranty, and certain modifications could void it.

I found that in manual mode any temp setting below 22 just blows in outside temp air. 22 starts to get warm and anything between 25-30 is hot. The '92 300ZX I used to own operated in a similar way.

I am looking at upgrading my Stagea. What sort of power should I be looking at if I add the Jaycar EBC and Fuel control and FMIC? Keeping the standard turbo, injectors and exhaust. What sort of increases can I expect?

How easy is it to install the R33 GTR 3-gauge cluster (boost, oil temp and front torque) in a Stagea? Has anyone done it? Where would you hook up the lines for it? (Boost is obvious, but oil temp not so and front torque no idea) I have seen a couple for sale here in NZ and think it would be nice to do if it is possible.

I have the factory stereo installed and found that the surround was screwed to the stereo frame at the bottom on each side. I had to remove the unit with the surround attached, then unscrew the surround from the unit.

In NZ I'm with AMI. The car is insured for NZ$13,000 (price of car, as I'm paying it off). Premiums are about NZ$600-NZ$700 a year. Excess is NZ$250-NZ$500 depending if it is stolen, I crash or my wife crashes. No excess on glass. I'm over 25 and have a 60% NCB You guys seem to pay a lot in Aussie.

My Stagea is factory standard. It gets about 14-15l/100km around town. On the open road it improves to about 10-11l/100km (at 100-115km/h). This is pretty much the same economy as my '92 NA 300ZX got, which suprised me, as it was a manual, non-turbo, not 4WD, a couple of hundred kg's lighter and a bit more slippery through the air. The Z went further on a tank though, it had a 72l tank as oppsed to the Stagea with 65l. I actually managed to drive the Z from Palmerston North to Auckland (about 500km) on just over 3/4 of a tank. Not done this in the Stagea yet, petrol prices are through the roof here in NZ.

All imports into NZ, apart from private ones, have their odometers checked. Mine was checked by the AA, and verified as not being tampered with. Then again, a 1998 car with 110,000 should be accurate.