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Here is a link to some more info on the recall. http://www.consumer.org.nz/newsitem.asp?ca...gnum%20vehicles It may not affect your VR4, but make sure.

I wwas looking at getting a Legnum, until I found out about the re-call that Mitsubishi had to do with the VR-4's. I can't remember exactly why they recalled them (only VR4, Trip-Tronic models) I think it was something to do with the gearbox affecting the brakes, not sure. Also, DO NOT get one with the Trip-Tronic gearbox. That gearbox is very well known to be a bit weak. It can fail at any km's, and when it does fail (and it will) it costs the GDP of a small african nation to replace/repair. On the up side though, they are very fast and do look a bit better than the Stagea. I bought the Stagea because of Nissan's reliability and the size of the cargo area. Both of which are important for a new family.

Wow, Stageas are slowly taking over the world. They are a little bit more common over here in NZ than Oz or the UK by the sounds of things. the previous thread pretty much answers all your questions, as for the wheels, I recently replaced my factory 16's with a set of 18's. I didn't notice any change in ride quality, but the better tyres definately improved the cornering response. Happy motoring.

Looks nice. I'm not too keen on all the gizmos inside. I have never been a big gizmo fan.

The rust is basically on the forward top corner of the door, under the wing mirror. It looks like the foam backing on the wing mirror traps water and eventually causes rust as it slowly rubs away. The easiest way to stop it is put a layer of something waterproof between the door and the wing mirror. Some sort of sealant would proably do the job. There will probably be numerous other ways people have come up with, that's just what I'd do.

I did a quick job of it a while back, just to hold it until I had time to fix it completely. Will be doing it soon. It is fairly easy to DIY, you don't need to match the paint exactly, a it's hidden by the mirrors. I was just going to sand/buff off any major rust, then use some rust converter on the rest. After it has done it's job, some good primer (at least 2 coats) and overcoat. Just to stop it happening again I was going to add a couple of coats of Dinotrol. It's a corrosion preventative compound used on aircraft (I am an aircraft technician, so get time expired stuff from work). That should keep the rust at bay for as long as I have the car.

I was just thinking the other day how a widebody on a Stagea would look. I like it! It's got that staunch Audi RS6 look. I like it! I want, I want, Iwant!!!!

Interesting thing about higher octane vs fuel economy. Recently the AA here in NZ did a real world driving test with a Nissan Maxima. They drove as real people would, not as someone trying to conserve fuel. They drove around some of the roads in the North Island one way using BP 96, and returned the same route using BP 98. They found that using 98 gave them better economy, but it still worked out more expensive (not by much ) to run on 98. I generally run my Stagea on BP 98, it feels like the wagon runs smoother and is less hesitant. It doesn't seem to make any difference to fuel economy when I compared it to 96.

I get around 14-15l/100km around town. 10-11l/100km open road (100-110km/h) I have got over 600km on a tank (fuel light coming on). I don't think the economy is too bad for a heavy, turbo-charged auto.

Welcome to the group. It's a good looking wagon. I like the colour, mine's boring old silver. Here are some answers for you. Q1. The fluid is for the ATTESSA 4WD system. When you start the car you may hear a wirring from the drivers side towards the back, it is the pump for the ATTESSA system pressurising the system. Q2. The 'S' button is for 'synchro' mode. It basically puts the car in 4WD with a 50:50 torque split. The ATTESSA 4WD is normally 0:100 (front:rear) and the distributes torque to the front as and when it is required, up to a maximum of 50:50. Q3. The 4WD light hopefully should never come on. It means there is a fault in the system if it does. I hope this answers your questions. Some other members may explain things better, I have not owned my Stagea for too long. I hope you enjoy you Stagea as much as we all enjoy ours. Happy driving.

Yeah, we are pretty lucky over here if you want to buy an import. You just can't import anything pre '96 and put it on the road. This is because of frontal impact standards. But it doesn't apply to SUV's, so our roads are full of f*&ked smokey diesel SUV's that choke you with soot when you get stuck behind them.

Not sure if I like it too much. It makes the care look really bulky and heavy. Something a Stagea doesn't need!

What about the later model (2001-)? Mmmm, 400Nm of VQ25DET goodness. I would love one of those even if they do look more like a Volvo.

I pronounce it 'Stay-Gee-A', but I've heard it pronounced 'Staj-Ee-A'. As they say, 'A Stagea by any other name still goes as well as a Stagea' (ripped off from some guy called W Shakespere)

My last car was a manual 300ZX, so I miss the manual g/box. I find that a manual is easier to drive through tight, hilly roads. Especially when going downhill. I miss being able to keep it in a gear and use the accelerator to shift the weight of the car around through the corner. Maybe I just need to get used to driving an auto, the Stagea is my first one. I still think it would be better with a manual though.

I find that the auto seems a little too eager to chop down when you accelerate. I would prefer if it held the gear it was in a little more, only chop down when you plant the boot.

UUGGGHHHH! I think it looks hideous!! Get it away!! I wonder how it drives? I bet it's not the best ride in the world. I like dished wheels, but c'mon. The dish looks about as deep as most wheels are wide. The camber is crazy. The inside inch of the tyre would have worn down to the fabric before the outside has even touched the road! Man, those Japanese do some crazy sh1t. As Mr RS4 said, gotta admire their imagination. Not for all tastes though.

30-40kg's? How much does a Stagea bonnet weigh if you can save that much? It must weigh at about 35-50kgs. That's if the C/F bonnet weighs 5-10kgs. Surely it can't be that heavy.

Does the C/F bonnet actually weigh much less than the standard (aluminium I presume) bonnet? Or is it just an expensive, needless accessory. I know for a fact that a C/F 300ZX bonnet weighs more than the standard fit.

Just a random thought that I had. Has anyone ever heard of anyone swapping the old RB for a different engine? How about one of those Nissan V8's (QF45, I think?). Or maybe twin-turboing a VQ25? It's probably been done in Japan (they seem to do all sorts of crazy stuff to their cars). There is plenty of room under the bonnet, I'm sure a V8 could fit. It's not that the RB is a bad engine and I think it should be changed, the idea just popped into my head and I thought 'I wonder...'.

Just did a double cab. Lowered the bonnet a bit, I'm too useless to draw goog looking roolbars. Looks a little better. I also made the file a tad smaller.

I think a lower bonnet would make it look a bit better as well. Also maybe a roll bar behind the cab, with diagonals down to the wheel wells. On the whole, I don't think It'll win any beauty contests as a ute.

I have done a quick photoshop of what it might look like. It's pretty rough, and it doesn't really look right. I'm no photoshop god, so feel free to improve it. The proportions are all wrong, the roof needs to be raised, and the cab looks like it is right in the middle of the vehicle. StagUte.bmp

Feathering on tyres is caused by the wheels not being aligned properly. Get a wheel alignment done. If you buy new tyres without getting the wheels aligned, the same problem will happen and you would have wasted your money on tyres.

Here is a link to a thread from the SDU site. http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=49214 What does everyone think about the method described in there? Has anyone tried it?