SKiT_R31

You must have had your dash replaced, maybe with a lower k one? Mine has a Slip light and a 4WD light. They both come on with ignition but I've never had the 4WD light up, only the slip.

Still got this? Well dont throw it away, if you still have it in a while, ill buy it of you

You could get an aftermarket controller, OR some nice new cams & adj gears

lol adis, either there is something wrong with your car, with your driving, or you didnt have anywhere near that power on the day. I've seen multiple R33's with stock ECU's + mods break into the high 13's. The R33 coupe in my driveway has 245 falk's on 18's and it really struggles with traction when hitting boost in first and/or quick shifting second, and yes it chirps third, and power wouldn't be near yours, maybe 170ish.......... This is my drag run in my dirty R31 wagon, with stock VL turbo management, and 10psi on a KKR430, FMIC, 2.5" sidepipe (no mufflers). Ran consistant flat 14's, the worst being 14.18 and the best being 14.02 (spewing that i didn't crack 13's) the car would be lucky to have 160kW at the wheels, and is of similar weight to your R33. (32C track temp)

While this may be true with older vehicles, it is not the case with almost any new vehicle, including N/A skylines. Regardless, the less resistance against the piston on its exhaust stroke, the better. Putting an exhaust on a car that is too large, is bad for both N/A AND turbo cars, and its not due to "not enough back pressure" its due to MORE back pressure, from having to push a larger volume of exhaust gas out, at a slow rate (giving it time to cool and become denser, therefore creating even more back pressure). Regardless of the car, you need the correct size piping, and the less restriction the better (i.e. higher flowing mufflers, cats). Long gone are the days when you needed back pressure to stop pissing air/fuel out of your exhaust due to cam overlap etc. lol, i never said it was, all i said is that i wanted one, its still branded a GTR, therefore, its a GTR 4 door, which is all i wanted. I didnt say "An original nissan branded magic 4 door GTR". But i don't think I'd get one anymore, my current 33 more than satisfies me, with power/delivery, handling etc, its just a daily so anywhere between 160-200kW ATW is fine IMO. With an SAFC2 & more boost tuned on the dyno, that's my goal range, although, i suspect I'm already at least in the lower half of that, its pretty spot on as it is, I'd would rather it be reliable and street able and sink the $$ and time into my track car.

I was referring to the Autech GTR http://www.infinitig35.net/R33/4door/

Back on topic, I have an R33 GTS4, used to be N/A and it would happily do a 0-100 in <8seconds without a hard launch. They weigh around 1440kg, about 100kg lighter than a VT, but the difference is VT's have a lot more power in the lower rev range, due to their higher capacity, whereas an RB25DE only really has good power between 4500-6500rpm. HOWEVER, this is countered by the ridiculously short gearing of the GTS4, 50kmph in first and 85kmph in second, made it quite snappy when N/A. My car had a 2.5" exhaust, enclosed pod filter, "highflow" cat, and about 25 degree's ignition timing at idle, it had 110kW at all fours, which is nothing special, but its not bad, its about what an Ecotec gets with the same mods (exhaust and intake) - that's the engine in the VT BTW. So to fix the OP's problem, i would firt say, exhaust, is it stock? If so, change it, its old and knackered, and some more flow will benefit the choking N/A. Secondly, the Cat, its most likely blocked, i would either decat it, gut it or replace it with a high flow. and finally, ignition timing - wind it up, if its an older import, it may have been wound back to run on 91 octane, it could have been put at the wrong spot after a timing belt change, anything. I would say 20degree's minimum, and keep winding it up until it either stops making power or pings, i wouldn't recommend more than 30. I'm assuming your on your P's, since otherwise you wouldn't want an N/A, so just conceal your mods, make them tidy and quiet! I bought my GTS4 because i wanted a 4 Door AWD car, and couldn't find a 4 door R33 GTR (they do exist, but pricey and rare) It now has a FMIC, 8psi on an R34 turbo, 15degree's ignition timing, GTR gearbox (for the taller gearing), billet lightweight GTR flywheel and HD clutch, and is incredibly responsive, plenty of power for a daily, the motors cope with boost well, its comparable to another car i have in my driveway (same 1/4 mile, but slower to 100), R33 GTST coupe, FMIC, 3", SAFC & 12psi. but the GTS4+T is a lot more responsive and zippy (and therefore fun), due to having traction for hard launches (and hard power hit), and the much shorter gearing.

Line the solid line up with the mark on the crank and the dotted line up with the dot on the cam gear............

Hey All, i have a Microtech LTX12S for my RB25, it is tuned for a stockish GTR (280kW) and 550CC injectors. I have 550CC injectors in my car, and a loom convertor to plug it directly into my car. Is there anything else that is likely to stop it from working and being drivable to a tuner? The only other difference i can think of are the AFM's but obviously now im map sensored. All the ignitors etc are different but wire the same into the ecu plug? Thanks, -Dan

If there arent, youll have to count teeth, between the top timing mark on the cam gear and the timing groove on the crank. There should be 53 teeth between them. This might give some info too, http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?t...ming_belt#RB30E

what about dots, or any marks at all?

More info...? has your timing belt got the white lines on it? (there should be 2)

Hey, has anyone got one of these around hobart area? Dont need bov or anything else just the pipe Thanks

Hey all, as per title - just want a cheap box in good shape that i can throw up under my r31 without hastle, since i blew my gbox. Cheers, -Dan

Its the same story for your car, for the info i previously gave. All it will give you is the induction noise, there will be no power gain, infact there will be a slight loss at higher speeds and lower ambient temps.

Is that a picture of your cars engine bay? If so, that car is turbo, and if you put a pod filter there, 2 things will happen. 1. you car will become a hell of alot slower, i.e. bcome n/a. 2. you car wouldnt actually go, because the AFM wouldnt meter the air going into the engine to tell it how much fuel to inject. If that is your engine bay, i really wouldnt recommend putting a pod filter on it, yes you will get some cool noises out of it, but it wont positively effect performance, infact, at higherspeeds, you will notice a drop in responce and general pickup (spool, getup and go) due to losing the snorkel. If that doesnt change your mind, then what you need to do, is remove the airbox. To do this ,you need to pop the clips on it, pull the top off, pull out the panel filter, unbolt the afm from the airbox (bolts inside the airbox, with a metal bellmouth) then unscrew the airbox bolts ive circled, to pull the whole contraption out. Then you need to take the metal bellmouth or airbox bottom into somwhere like autobarn or supercheap, and ask for an AFM pod filter adapter to bolt to your afm. Then your in buisiness....

a good upgrade might be a factory GTR clutch and flywheel (from early R32) i have a billet lightweight GTR flywheel and Excedy HD GTR clutch in mine, clutch grip is phenomenal (second gear clutch drop lights all 4s with fat tyres) on RB25DE+T but you pay for it with your left leg, it is brutal heavy and bitey, Ive got a mate with a 4000lB Jim berry full monty clutch, and that's light as a feather compared.

what do you mean by air intake? Yes the pipe you have circled connects to the throttle body and is part of the intake piping. That is not stock, it is a very neat aftermarket jobby, looks like a factory VLT crossover pipe has been chopped and had aftermarket piping welded to it, with the whole lot painted black. With the fact that they have done this and kept the factory airbox, and factory VLT heat shielding makes it a very neat impressive R31 turbo conversion.

Question, I want to 5 Stud convert my GTS4, since its turbo now, but i'm low on cash, but rich in time, and have the hubs but not brakes. SO, whats the deal with the discs, what size are they? I have some R32 GTST front discs, and R33 GTST rear disks (and caliper) can i replace the hubs, and use the stock front calipers on the 5 stud discs? Temporarily until i can afford a full new brake setup? I've got 4x114.3/5x114.3 rims, so that wont affect me, and i'm about to change my suspension, so i mayaswell get the hubs over and done with, and i can upgrade the front brakes at a later stage (and go the whole braided route, i have some R34 disks too, so might get those calipers) Which is another question, i have R34 rear hubs, discs and calipers - will they fit?

yeah i understand the boost adjustible, but what size is the water nozzle, i.e. how much water does it spray? i.e. heaps, for a 300kW setup, or medium for ~ 200kW setup, etc...

Hey mate, does this include EVERYTHING required to run waterspray? Is the amount of spray adjustible? What power/airflow is it for / was it used on? Cheers

Are the S2's the one with the ceramic or steel rear?

Is it a steel wheel turbo?

I'm keen ont hat turbo, are you happy to post?

Would you be interested in another skyline? Non-Turbo R33 RB25DE GTS4 (4WD) 4 Door, with GTR 5 Speed Gearbox.