SKiT_R31

50 thou over? so a 70cc gain? I've been looking for some 60 thou over, add 100cc to my 30DE, wanted somthing a bit lighter than stock though, for a 25DE. Although in standard material you could get away with a tighter bore. Any more info on these customs?

Not necessarily a bad thing, as long as the oils still thick and theres good pressure, different oils have different detergents which can blacken the oil. I'm allways pedantic about my oil though and change on colour or 5000kms what ever comes first, including an oil flush. pfffttt, More Nitrous.......?

afm...?

I'm assuming you want a front facing plenum for an rb20det? i've got one for a 25det

post a picture of your engine and ill circle it in red

Answering the question, yes you can and yes it will work, it will spool early and run out of puff quickly. If you put the stock r33 actuator on it (so its only running 5-7psi) it should cope ok, They don't like pushing more than ~ 150rwkw worth of air, so run the lowest boost you can, and it will get you by (i wouldn't go bouncing off the limiter though) That said, your better option would be to get another rb25 turbo, a vg30 turbo or similar T3 (an old vl turbo even), you can get them in aus for around $300

pfft, don't stress, it will love it Really depends on why its down on compression, whether its the rings, or whether you've melted/warped the edge off your piston. For starters i'd disconnect your breathers and block them at the plenum/intake. (so your rockers just vent, better would be to hose and vented can them). as long as whatever caused this in the first place (lean fuel mixes, too much timing advance/shit fuel etc) is resolved, it should survive the power cruise. Might be a bit low on power, but meh. I melted the edge off 2 of my pistons (down to 50psi) and shattered a ring land (0psi) with 165psi on the other 3 pistons, i wound in more fuel pressure, disconnected the injector on 0psi cylinder, disconnected breathers, wound a touch of timing out of it, put the dipstick back in, topped up the oil (was sprayed all over engine bay haha) and boosted the car all the way home on 5cyl. It loved it, didn't do any more damage apart from scoring one of the cylinders, but it was probably like that anyway. the only risk you would be taking is damaging the bits of your engine you need like scratching bores, shooting bits of shit into your turbo/sump etc. Rev it slowely up to limiter listening for rattles, if all is well, i wouldn't worry, else if you want to keep the engine to rebuild it, sit this one out.

the link doesnt work

haha i had that on my high comp 3L with a kkr430, anything over 1/5 throttle over 2000rpm and it would spool, 1500rpm under heavy load, was a bit of fun cruising up a hill in 5th on 1/4 throttle hearing nothing but spool at ~ 1600rpm (at fullboost - 5PSI) like driving a truck! (30e had low end cam in it and shaved head)

Dead link... $300 isn't much... Do you intend to turbo it in the future? Just a straight through 2.5" pipe with mandrel bends will nearly set you back that much, add 2 mufflers and a high flow cat and you've at least doubled that... Then theres what quality you want... On my twin cam, i have a huge resonator, and a magnaflow mandrel center offset stainless rear muffler, that sounds tops imo the same system in 2.5" with a cat would give a great sound. My system cost me $550 through a local exhaust shop (mates rates though) and is 3" Mandrel, with no cat, plus i had it flanged and welded to modified (from R33 to R31) tuned length fujitsumoto extractors. I'd say ~ $700minimum if you want to include a high flow cat... But I'm speaking for it you want a decent system, otherwise for cheap mufflers and a press bent 2.5" it'd probably set you back $250... Also if you bought a stock turbo exhaust you could save a bit... Cheers

probably because they're working harder, feeding more power, due to higher compression. Maybe find slightly larger ball bearing turbo? VG30? Very unlikely, unless your in a serious crash and some one dies/is critically injured and your car needs to be looked over by forensics, no one will ever know whats inside it. Whenever you crash usually its just your job to collect your car and deal with it, unless your comprehensively insured, in which case if they find out about the turbo (which once again is unlikely, since its a non turbo chassis, and i doubt they'll check over the engine mechanics, just obvious things like tyres). So imo, your pretty safe, about as safe as most of these people with FMIC, Bigger turbo's, after market management, and other modifications that aren't legal or engineered. On top of that, Insurance company's like just cars, will still insure you, even if the car isn't mod plated, as long as they are aware of the modifications, your only concern would be MAIB, which would never find out. I knew someone who crashed a VL into a wall at like 100 clicks, both people in the car have taken MAIB insurance for all its worth (and needed it) and the car was far from legal. (suspension, brakes, tint, rims, na+turbo, fmic, list goes on). obviously though, you could be the one person out of thousands that doesn't get away with it

stock ballbearing turbo's dont make much spool noise, with a stock exhaust manifold, quiet exhaust, stock intercooler, piping and airbox, with stock boost, you'll barely hear the spool at all, and with no bov, there shouldnt even be an audible compressor surge... Keep everything neat, quiet, nothing shiny, everything covered, and dont thrash the pants off it or attract attention, and i'd doubt you will ever have a problem with the popo.

not a massive guy? lol at that weight your not half a massive guy, lol... Some thing thats not mentioned so much here that ill add, is that rotating weight means more than static weight (static weight being dead weight held by suspension, and rotating being, engine/drive train) So lighter wheels, drive shaft, clutch, flywheel, balencer, even crank/rods/pistons all make a big difference. As for lightened flywheels being undrivable? I think the opposite, i love my light flywheel, makes down shift throttle blips so quick, effortless and smooth, car revs quicker etc. No problems with stalling etc, might be more noticed on laggier turbo cars etc, also depends on your gearing etc (i have fairly short gearing for a 3L @ 3.9:1). Lightweight wheels make a big difference also, even brakes.... what was mentioned with the weight distribution is correct, but you can change your suspension accordingly to suit. I don't have a spare or jack etc, i run an rb20det gearbox (lighter than 25det) but have my battery in my boot to help out distribution (if its a 32) you could also get a lighter battery. Less fuel in the tank, pretty much anything else you can look at and replace with some thing lighter or remove all together, sound deadening/carpet, aircon condenser + radiator, shit behind dash, stereo gear, replace window glass, exhaust, windscreen washer and full radiator overflow, whatever floats your boat. but remember, theres not tooo much of a gain with removing static weight you'll be able to shed, so its about compromises for performance vs comfort, for example, its a bit of work but you can probably take over 20kg of sound deadening/carpet/underlay just out of the cabin, but do you want the noise and vibration? unless its dedicated track or your going for broke, I'd leave it stock appart from easily removable items, like rear seat (that you can put back in), and lightened drive train, if thats what your into.

haha, i would have given you 50 for it ! lol

the cams are interchangeable, i like the look of these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-...1QQcmdZViewItem or these in the 256/8.5 for a milder cam http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Tomei-poncam-camsha...1QQcmdZViewItem

where abouts are you? what else is on the engine? flywheel, oil pump, balencer?

ugh bad luck mate. i dont trust mechanics i dont know personally, therefore i do all my work myself (and learnt it all myself) about $150 over priced

Sorry to hear mate, really sucks, 183kw though, what boost? what turbo/ecu? all stock? But the price is sort of your own fault, you can do things cheaper, i.e. not buy any kit (just collect the parts) and fit it all yourself. The total cost for my turbo conversion was $1860 Turbo (KKR430, never used but second had) $500 Braided oil feed line plus fittings $100 Oil drain metal thnig and hose $free, made myself and had random 90 degree angle hose Turbo manifold, ebay stainless low mount $200inc post, drilled out the bolt holes as they didnt line up, schmick now sounds good beats stock manifold. Dump pipe custom price for metal and 2x bends (in mild steel) $100 (welded myself) Injectors $150 (std VLT Spec) remapped ecu $90 Front mount cooler (single sided) $200 pipwork, bends, silicone joiners $200 fuel pump $120 (second hand 044 inline) Exedy HD clutch (RB25DET) $200 second hand (heaps of meat) add the cost of my f**kup, $50 engine block, $64 ACL monotorque head gasket, $7 water pump gasket, $16 exhaust manifold gasket 2 types of $10 gasket goo (sump and intake/exhaust manifolds) total = $157 So my total is $2017 + service and yeah, i love it, i collected all the bits of the course of a few months, so $100 here and there, didnt really notice a hole in my pocket. Bit of work, would be a good learning curve for somone who hasnt dont it all before, but certainly not hard at all, for $2k yeah its definately worth it, heaps more fun. that said i could have done it for less than half that (and have before on GF's car, all stock bits come in under a grand with stock cooler/piping, std manifold turbo and lines) there is no brake upgrade, no suspension etc, but just because its got twice the power doesnt mean ill drive twice the speed so i dont need to stop twice as fast... stock breaks pull it up as quick as any breaks could anyway (wheels/tyres are the problem) and its not a car for doing laps in, it gets a squirt on take offs/straights and thats about it. If i come accross some decent brakes i might get them, but there is absolutely no need at the moment, as i like my licence. Suspension, yeah i might pickup some second had kings or somthing but i like it high and soft as it goes off road occaisionally and its my comfy daily.

for the R32... (non vvt) ? because the guy in the link just ordered one for an rb20det and it bolted straight upto his r32 rb25de head, same size gasket and ports On the R33 the throttlebody exits pretty muh straight to the side of the radiator/headlight you need a pretty tight bend, i cant remember what the 32 battery area looks like but if you were to use a stock tb and 2.5" piping i cant see why you couldnt squeese past with some clever piping (through headlight), otherwise you can get a smaller batters, run it sideways or re-locate.

well that depends, are you after high boost... or high power? imo for a street driven stock internals car, an rb25de+t can get insane power, with a good tuner theres no reason why you couldnt hit the same power limit as a factory turbo. Dont forget its not the boost figures that matter the less boost for the most power the better (i.e. you make your engine flow instane and tune it well, you wont need sfa boost for good power) and generally higher compression will mean better off boost drivabiliy, less lag etc (when tuned for it). When you want to make serious power, just like with a factory turbo, its time to rebuild the engine anyway, and then you can give it 7:1 CR if thats what floats your boat. I really dont understand the hesitation to turbo the n/a motor, so whats the worst that will happen? you'll f**k it up and she'll pop, who cares? you were going to change it anyway, just buy a bare long motor cheap and drop it in (as you'll already have all the gear, probably after market better stuff anyway) but if you dont f**k it up, you have a better engine (that you know the history of) for cheaper and less hastle.

Hey mate, good luck with it, just when you do it make sure you check everything, i just did another 30e+t (i know its a different kettle of fish) but my fuel pump let go on me and melted 3 pistons. It was obviosly fine enough for small n/a power, but running only 4psi into it (at the plenum) was all over. $50 for a new bottom end + <$100 for gaskets (head, water pump, sump gasket goo) and a fair few weekends work and its all back together and running beautiful (with more compresion than before @ spot on 155psi per cyl -head shaved) but this time i got a fuel pressure gauge onto it, when i high revved it pressure would sag about 15psi, threw in my bosch inline 044 wound it up the reg to about 40psi and it loves 8psi no problems (goes hard and 1800rpm full boost, kkr430, picks the front of the car up haha) so yeah lesson learned, check your fuel pressure, wind your timing back (to 10 deg or so) and baby it to a dyno to check the a/f ratio's and safely wind the timing back up. The only problem with high compression (just like high boost) is by the time you hear it ping - its too late. That said rb25's are alot more advanced and even with there higher compression, are more tollerant than a 30e (esp one with higher than stock comp) plus you have knock sensors etc. A mate of mine did an R33 RB25de to turb conversion, ran 9psi didnt touch the timing or fuel pressure, got 210rwkw, his only problem was rich and retard from any more boost than that, but larger injectors and an safc (cheap way out of full aftermarket management) could have helped that a bit. cheers

most rb30's keep great condition even with high kilometers, for examply my 200+ thou km block still had the original honing marks, if yours is similar and you can see them just a hone should be fine, i know of alot of people who have just honed the bores and returned perfect compression with no blow by.

does it have an safc? rb25det ecu's are tuned for 370cc injectors, so unless its got different injectors or an SAFC it will be running lean as if it has an safc, adjusting the mixture ~ 37% to get it to run, it would probably make it rich and retard off sfa power the engines are very similar, as far as cams etc are concerned, and with a plain rb20 long motor on an rb25det ecu with all the rb25det sensors and electrics, you'd find it would run pretty well (should be fine on boost). But with the rb20 sensors and all the other crap along with it, it makes sense it would be pretty average. VCT shouldn't be a big deal, as unplugged on an rb25det it still runs fine... So more info, what turbo do you have? what injectors? any piggyback devices? fuel pressure regulator?

ebay usa (i think) have jun style for rb20, mate just got one with tb for <$900 delivered but dont be a tool, get an 80mm TB http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fr...00-t223568.html (its the r32 rb25de head, i.e. same as rb20det)

wtf!? the rb25de box is exactly the same as the rb20de, or even the rb30e. Getting an rb25det box would just be retarded and completely un necesary = waste of money (plus adds weight to car) as i said before, you do not need to change the loom for the rb25de R32, just the ecu