SKiT_R31

does anyone have a link to this info about length, diameter etc, and effects, as I'm curious cheers

about 37% i have to lean it out by im just curious if theres any other differences, like electrical/impedence or somthing, or whether they normally operate at a different fuel pressure? does any one know what fuel pressure RB25DET's should have?

Hey all Just wondering, I've got 370cc injectors running off an N/A ECU, I've got a SAFC, is there any other differences that could cause problems (other than the 100cc)? this is for S1 R33 RB25 cheers

if only these were 4 stud

oh for f**ks sake! media and police need to focus more on shit like this instead of f**king 'hooning' alarm/immob?? where abouts?

Yeah, In Montrose - a street off the main road, it was on the side of the road under a street light, with a steering lock on... haven't got the "found torched" call yet - heres hoping... red books only worth $2200 tops

Cheers Brad, It was a sleeper, S3 Executive AUTO - RB30e+t, she's stock looking - $15 super cheap hub caps, bulging tyres (215's on 6"rim), recently resprayed but paint a bit flakey around doors etc, has a rotary style dump exhaust, car is fairly low. If you hear it, its got a really quiet exhaust note, really can only hear whoosh and spool, has a really quick soft flutter (small side mount cooler) Photo; ta -Dan

im pretty sure i heard somewhere that thr cams on n/a and turbo are the same, but the gears are adjusted accordingly for overlap? overlap pretty much works so that as the exhaust is blowing out, it sucks a/f in. i fully agree with the statement that one could make 200rwkw, i think it could easily, and if the right money is spent, in the right places, the car could be VERY drivable, happily. and damn that would feel good mmm, i love the 30de

pretty sure they are the same, afaik the only difference on the head itself is the valve springs and cam gears?

you'll be lifting that rev limiter - definately, the funnest part of my car is between 4000rpma and 6500rpm and your cam is bigger again - the stock 6800rpm 25 limiter is pretty fair with the 25 head, the 30 is a completely different motor, revving at 5-6k+ doesnt worry it at all, pulls hard all the way there, smooth as.

cdi???

My limiter with a stock 25DE ecu, was at exactly 6800rpm, now have a Mines ECU with no limiter... - goign to get somthing like a jaycar and set it at ~ 7000-7200rpm (or whever power drops off, dont want to take it much further than that though, it is a 30 block after all) are you goign to fully balence it, maybe get a new harmonic balencer? dont forget 30e's have bad harmonic issues in mid 7k rev range being 93 i would have said S1, but 4 AFM wires!?

If they are camshafts for tubo motors, they might not perform as well in a Naturally Asprirated motor, know the overlap details etc? also, when do you want to make your power? this cam, "ECR33 Series 1 (RB25DET) - Duration: IN,EX 256 Lift: IN,EX 8.5mm" sounds great, pending the overlap question. for example, my cam, is a surecam max regrind for the stock rb25 cams, its 255deg duration, 8.3mm lift i got my power at 6000rpm and my torque at 5000rpm, with a few limitations, power drops off at ~ 6500, and by limiter is down about 10kw, after i fix a few issues im hoping it will atleast hold its power to ~ 7000rpm. how far do you want to be revving it? the cam you've mentioned sounds good, but i probably wouldnt want to go any further for a daily, while mine has plenty down low, i wouldnt want any less, and to get into the torque/power of it, you need to sit above ~ 4k. Also dont forget, once you start gonig bigger than a max regrind, your probably going to want to look at full aftermarket management.... edit: i also aggree with the above, not only for the fact of having it off the road for less time, but the fact of having it go quicker and quicker and quicker, the novelty's will last longer than getting it in one hit, that said, no point taking the same item off again and again... Obviously all headwork would be done at the same time, etc. also, make sure you shave the head/block, i would have thaught 12:1 would be too far (would have to lose some timing?) but bringing mine from 10.4:1 to 11:1 made a MASSIVE difference, and i kept 15degs ignition, with 98ron no knocks.

............?

The Drivers Manual PDF is here; http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php/topic,78418.html

OK, theres alot of talk about wasted spark vs spitfires etc im just trying to decide what would be best for me (S1 R33 RB25/30) I want the most efficient burn i can get, so i want powerful coils for over gapped plugs with a strong spark Whats my best option? from searching, spitfires seem to be pretty similar to stocky's, but brand new, maybe take a bit more heat and a longer dwell... what about some of the wasted spark options - like aftermarket EL coon ones? and by having overkill for ignition, could power be lost elsewhere (to power it) sorry for the newb'ish questions

that'l cost him an arm and a leg electric thermo?

if the ignitor cant handle the current draw, what about relays? 6x GT40's with relays direct to the battery, would be ideal wouldnt it? and on that note, what about adding capacitors etc?

Come on people need one asap, S1 25de or 25det cheers heaps

Hey people, really desperate, need an ecu plug/engine loom for my car, if anyone has one left over from a wreck or somthing? prefer one that hasnt been molestered, but i dont care anymore as long as it'l work - i need my car going cheers

the airbox has a snorkle, so should be outside air temperature, plus a couple degrees from heat soak i would assume the engine bay would be about ~ 10-15 degree's hotter than outside the engine

Cheers, Yeah meant the AFC Neo, Apexi Air Flow Convertor 'neo', it calls itself number 4 (upgraded from a SAFC2 because i thaught it had VCT altering functions) Yeah i understand what your saying about how to decide when to activate the VCT, i just now need to figure out how to make it automatically engage at that point. Ill properly talk to my tuner about it when i get the car ready, just waiting on damn extractors, and loom

cant the time VCT enables/disables be altered without an aftermarket computer (other than afc4) if so how? cheers

cant you just buy a new non welded cross member?? those other things on the list are only mild, easily fixed bargain, i would have paid 3 x that

so you cant get it to work with vct? then this makes me asad panda, was looking forward to tuning mine when my car gets going (ive got ACF4) so theres definately no way to dodge it? what about other methods to change when it kicks it? jaycar tool?