SKiT_R31

This redline shockproof oil people talk about, does it do anything for gearbox noise? i.e. whine's... My gearbox is a bit notchy when icy cold, but that doesnt bother me, the problem is, it whines like a mother in law, in every gear but 4th, which is really irritating what would that oil do for me? also, Penrite SIN gearbox oil, any good? or Penrite engine/diff oil?

woah thats incredibly depressing... i get around 500k's to a tank average driving with my beast your economy is not normal people, maybe professionally clean injectors, new 02, clean afm, make sure the engines in good service and tune (plugs, timing) check compression... no exhaust leaks? smash it on the dyno, check out a/f? invest in a safc and lean out your mixes

as above, you can get about 100 at the wheels out of them, and with a lean tune it should be pretty good on fuel, then go suspension etc that said, they dont have to know you have a 25de in it, you can even go as far as changing what the block says (to your current 20 engine's details) if you want to be dodgy... never be the wiser other than that, its a 20 give it some cams a good tune, timing compression, flow in and out, and then just let it rev, should be fun enough for now

Three Quarters of the skylines i come accross, 33's and 34's (32's dont even rate unless they've had plenty of work done) i easily chop, i have people in there 33's with the usual mods 3" exhaust, FMIC etc pull up beside me and laugh, only to be left in the rear view mirror, that is until i reach speed limit and just cruise with my lumpy exhaust, and then they boost past like hero's. I aggree, N/A cars make you a better driver, they sound insane, and with my pizzly 151kw (compared to hi po turbos 100kw more) is oohhh so much more enjoyable, the torque pulling you back, engine roaring, turbo cars just dont feel as good, ive been in and driven PLENTY, they just dont rate for drivability and enjoyment, after driving a turbo car for about ~ 10 mins, i get bored of it, thats why people who drive turbo's i assume are always looking for more power. Dont get me wrong, im looking for more power, but im more than satisfied with what i have, every day the sound and feel give me a grin, effortless movement (whats lag!?) low end torque - 1500rpm in top gear at 70 clicks up hill, engine throbbing away, minimal acceleration. But also, not everyone drives skylines to be fast, there are millions of other reasons, at the end of the day they are a good looking, reasonably safe and solid, reliable, comfortable, economical car. would you prefer to drive an N/A skyline, or a commodore? btw i dont count, im in a 31 manual Ti, short geared, light, crazy handling [low and stiff, up-down and accross] full luxury (velour, full electrics etc) and i cant think of a better car as a daily

How would this run? Mainly curious about timing, as i have a SAFC2 to get dyno tuned im just wondering what my best option will be, i am running 370cc injectors. Do anyone know the timing maps for the 25DET and the 25DE ecu's? I can obviously change the base timing, and the A/F ratio's, just wondering what would run happiest (as obviously running an RB25DET ecu would make life easier with the injectors etc). Since the RB25DET is lower compression, i was thinking timing might not be too different, and if it is, maybe theres more down low, meaning i could up the base timing so i can get more low end before it maxes in the top end. few specs on engine, its Don's old engine, which is an R33 S1 RB25/30 with 1:1 RR FPR, 255 & 8.3mm cams, VVT, 10.5:1 CR, 6800rpm limiter, peak power @ 6000rpm, peak torque @ 5000rpm, dyno'd with 150.9RWKW with the safc untuned. Im putting thermo's on it, replacing the dodgy molestered press bent 2.5" with full twin a 2" mandrel straight through system (equiv to about 2.85" pipe), New larger extractors (the secondary's are whats joining to the twin pipes, they will never meet up [completely seporate] should sound lumpy), also making up a decent intake, Y piecing the twin TB's into one large pipe, feeding to the front with a proper enclosed CAI. Asked in N/A section a week or so ago, no relpy's Ta

How would this run? Mainly curious about timing, as i have a SAFC2 to get dyno tuned im just wondering what my best option will be, i am running 370cc injectors. Do anyone know the timing maps for the 25DET and the 25DE ecu's? I can obviously change the base timing, and the A/F ratio's, just wondering what would run happiest (as obviously running an RB25DET ecu would make life easier with the injectors etc). Since the RB25DET is lower compression, i was thinking timing might not be too different, and if it is, maybe theres more down low, meaning i could up the base timing so i can get more low end before it maxes in the top end. few specs on engine, its Don's old engine, which is an R33 S1 RB25/30 with 1:1 RR FPR, 255 & 8.3mm cams, VVT, 10.5:1 CR, 6800rpm limiter, peak power @ 6000rpm, peak torque @ 5000rpm, dyno'd with 150.9RWKW with the safc untuned. Im putting thermo's on it, replacing the dodgy molestered press bent 2.5" with full twin a 2" mandrel straight through system (equiv to about 2.85" pipe), New larger extractors (the secondary's are whats joining to the twin pipes, they will never meet up [completely seporate] should sound lumpy), also making up a decent intake, Y piecing the twin TB's into one large pipe, feeding to the front with a proper enclosed CAI. Cheers

^^ aggree'd but, if its a club drag day etc, and its possible, it doesnt hurt to do both, run in full trim - then start taking shit off the car and see how fast the car can go

pfft, forgot 3L bottom end Cams could help (if you want to sacrifice top end) Maybe a tune? bigger (or twin) TB, more compression........

cold air compresses better, plus better off boost

How much of the water/methanol mix will the car use in relation to petrol? say a worst case scenario (constant full throttle) would it use about ~ 10% the amount of fuel being used? (so on a car doing 20L per hundred, about 2L use would be about right?) Also, ive heard of mixes like 20% mentholated spirits and 80% water, ive heard normal metho safe to use???, and what differs between the mixtures [i.e. more or less metho/methonol]? as for the rust comment, ive actually heard it does more in terms of actually cleaning your engine and piping, from the pressurized mist (steam clean )

I was going to mention that. But with newzealand, they import all there cars (dont make any of there own) so they all allready have cats... its just not illegal to take them out.

I'm pretty sure i read somewhere that its almost worse for the planet (i.e. ozone layer) having a cat (with unleaded) as it produces random fumes (no2/sulphur?) but they have them to reduce smog etc caused by carbon monoxide, so in city's etc it reduces smog, but in the long run it kills the ozone. don't know how true this is, google it... but yeah, definitely go a highflow, just for the sound, you drive an RB - you dont want a 4 banger tinny rasp

is that a stock CAT or highflow? how much postage to 7009?

has anybody ever actually heard of anyone getting booked for it....? also the $10,000 fine im pretty sure is only to a buissness if they do it for you, im pretty sure the fine they can thwack you with is less than $1000, and i doubt it would be onj the spot, it would be a proper emmisions check at EPA, at a later date.... you need a smaller pipe, or you need to grind the inside of the cat out by how thick the 3" pipe is (as the cat is 3" internal diameter, as is the pipe) you should be able to easily grind the couple mm out of the cat, but it will take some time. Thats what i did for mine, but i wouldn't recommend it, as while yeah it does make some power difference, it also makes RB's sound raspy and a bit bomby, im getting a highflow just to make it sound better, and getting a test pipe made for track/strip

as much as i hate to say it... check out "calais turbo" forums, theres a guy on there that makes kits for the RB30, including brackets, piping, cooler etc, for cheaper than the Castlemaine ones. but i would assume you'd need a custom bracket for the RB25 made up. A supercharged 25 would be nice, very torquey, something like a Toyota SC14 would be good, i think the reason shy people say they're shit as they say they would run out of boost in higher rpm, which i dont whether that would be true or not, maybe wit a 10psi pulley, i doubt it with the stock 5psi one though. anyway, talk to him about it, im pretty sure he make vacuum lines etc for it aswell, so it only comes on when you get a certain low pressure... like under heavy load or WOT etc, kind of like the stock setups on the supercharged AW11 (4agze) someone down here in tassie put one on his rb30 (made his own kit) and got 165kw the otherday, and a truck load of torque, dunno what boost, would assume 10psi

worked out my dyno graph the other night (translated kph to rpm) peak power was exactly 6000rpm, peak torque exactly 5000rpm, it held its power for about ~ 300rpm, then from there it lost about ~8rwkw to limiter (set at 6800rpm). so i was off by about 300rpm in my guesstimation i reckon with a few things and a good tune hopefully it should hold its power to limiter

Ive got pretty much the same setup to you, with twin standard throttlebody's and a surecam reground cam with 255 degrees duration and 8.2 mm lift, and adjustable cam gears, with UNTUNED SAFC2, had it on the dyno yesturday, got 150.9RWKW on dr drifts dyno. my power peaked at about ~ 5500-5800rpm and dropped nearly 10kw by ~ 6500rpm (all guesstimates as rpm was not shown) Though i think this may be due to an exhaust restriction (only got a 2.25" cat in it with press bent 2.5" exhaust, to be fixed very soon) and it was a bit rich up top (about 12.5:1 the reading was - there was plenty of black smoke after 5000rpm) gonna be tuned as soon as i get the exhaust redone/heat wrapped and hopefully new extractors.

Is this for an RB20de or RB25de 2.25" mandrel would prob be best, with heatwrapped extractors - if your after performance Even with an RB20de i would think with a few mods (cam/intake) you would lose top end with a 2", by heatwrapping your extractors and maybe some of your exhaust (with no/highflow cat and mufflers) should keep your exhaust nice and hot (hot air takes up more space but is lighter = flows faster) with a healthy back pressure.

is this group buy now over?

Model: 1987 R31 Skyline Ti Engine: RB30DE with VVT Modifications: Extractors, exhaust, twin tb, safc untuned, billet f/wheel, reground surecams, 10.5 compression, 18 degrees timing, 98ron ultimate Power: 150.9RWKW @ 172kmph an 507nm (374FtLb) torque at 144kmph with more left in it, she's an economical daily but rich and restricted above 5000rpm so once thats tuned/fixed i'll be a happy camper

I'm in Hob, might give Pro Automotive a go then, ta

Hey people, Im looking to tune my R33 RB25 setup, running a SAFC2, where have people had good experience (or has it been done before for prior knowledge) and a rough guesstimate on price? cheers

pic of rims? (4 stud?)

Hey all, I need a new thermostat for my RB30DE and im wondering what one i should get? will the RB30e block take a normal RB25DE/T thermostat and what temperatures do the RB25DE and RB25DET's thermostats open? I know the RB30e one opens at 76.5 Degrees C - but since its running RB25 maps etc i'd like to know there operating temp. cheers

Hey mate, is this the ball bearing type T3? Internal waste gate? Will the lines fit an RB30 block? what power are these good for? cheers got a pic?