SKiT_R31

got any other pics? interior, rear other side, motor? Thanks

is the turbo ceramic or steel?

Wouldn’t put dirty holleys on it... SU's would be a bit of fun though, once you figure out how, they aren’t very difficult to tune, possibly the easy way to almost have ITB type induction. You could remove all the fuel setup and just run with the stock ignition maps OR remove everything and just run an aftermarket ignition controller. I've done this at home, but for turbo application, there is nothing stopping you from getting an RB30e bottom end and sticking an R32 RB25DE on top of it. It cost me under $1k to do it, found a ported and polished reco rb25de head (without cams) for $500, bought GTR cams and valve springs for $100, and the rest to belts, and gaskets. For N/A, shave 60 thou off the head, add adj cam gears, and you have a winner that will run on 91ron . Or if you want it for a laugh, fit RB25DE pistons, deck the block 40thou, still shave the head, and run it on methanol. om nom nom (its cheaper than pump fuel anyways ). While i am just joking, you can happily do that, you don’t have to spend big bickies to make a car go spastic hard, you just have to be a mad man (and happy to sacrifice street drivability)... You only have to spend big money, if you still want to be able to drive mum to the shops, comfortably and legally...

Check your ignition timing, you might need to wind it back a couple degree's to counter the extra compression, but as said before, use a lower gear, its much better for your engine.

Is the turbo steel or ceramic?

I'll take it, if your keen to post to Tas, I'll pay postage obviously...

Hey All, Just did the bearing in my turbo, however the front and rear wheels are fine. I'm pretty sure the RB20 centre is the same, but otherwise I’m after an RB25 turbo centre; surely there are a couple out there with destroyed ceramic wheels? It's quick and easy for me to just swap the centres around until I source a new high flow, I’m obviously after something on the cheap (really financially strained ATM) but if someone has a good nick stocker rb25 turbo I can just slot straight in, I’ll settle for that, since at the end of the day I need the car going! Cheers, -Dan

haha, its not bad, seems to boost at around 2000rpm, first gear is now balistic (4.4 ratio AWD with lightweight flywheel), i'm loving the grip/tame wheelspin. Its beautiful to drive, low rpm light throttle just powers up hills etc where before i would have had to shift back, has made the car alot nicer to drive. I've actually never had a ball bearing turbo before, its quite mad, you idle the car for a min or so, turn it off, and you can hear the turbo spin down for at least another minute... Although without waterspray assistance (which i dont want to rely on) on some of these hotter days (~35degs) i have heard the odd knock after driving the car relatively hard, when everything warms up. So once it arrives, i'm fitting a 600x300x76 SINGLE SIDED bar and plate front mount intercooler with twin 10" thermo's mounted behind it. Then i'll be happy to wind the boost up and give it a bit more ignition timing. I'm a big fan of single sided coolers, i have a 600 x 200 bar and plate on an R31 RB30e+t wagon with twin 8" thermo's mounted to the rear, and boost is always nice and cool, even after a thrash. I think this is because with a normal cooler, the boost tends to take the easy way through the cooler, not completely filling and empying, so your only effectively using a section of the rows. Wheras with a single sided cooler of the same size, the boost is going all the way through (using probably the same amount of rows as a normal FMIC) but then has to go down and back through again. You can feel the heat in the cooler, its hot at the top on the entry, warm at the top at the end, and cool at the exit at the bottom (wheres a normal FMIC tends to be hot entry warm exit). You obviously dont get the same flow as you would a straight through Front Mount, but when your dealing with high compression, you want the boost as coool as you can get it .

If people are interested, my N/A RB25DE is now turbo (on stock boost atm) I just did what I said originally and got a larger block fitting for the head oil drain and T pieced into it. The turbo is ball bearing, so they don't take anywhere near the oil of some of the sleeve bearing turbo's (could end up with a different result?). But the car has been running fine for some time now, just thought I'd let people know this is an option. Happy to be boosting again, its makes a respectable amount of power for the street.

You guess correct, i am new to GTR's/AWD's... in a normal RB box, you pour oil in the stick if you cant get it in from the side Glad i asked about the bleed nipple I filled it with oil through the breather, forcing it with an large oil syringe, it took some time, and my arms are pretty sore, but she's in. Also drained and flushed the transfer case and put the correct amount of NISSAN MATIC D oil in it, so all is apples Thanks for everyone's input

There are 2 gearbox beathers/overflow hoses, i know at least one is for the transfer case, any chance the second one is for the gearbox...?

ugh f**k. So how can i get oil in the gearbox? the filler bolt is stripped.......

....why?

Hey All, Just replaced the gearbox in my car, whats the deal with the bleed nipple in the picture I've attached (please ignore the smurf blood, haven't cleaned yet) how do you bleed it and what is it for? Cheers

you mean RB30e........?

That bolt you've circled, is the bolt R33's use for VCT oil return line, that i am going to T-Piece into

I've turbo'd an N/A RB25DE (normal GTS) before, they usually have the drain

I PM'd WYTSKY, he said he drilled and tapped into the factory position. I cant drill the sump as its the Alloy 4WD one, and really dont want to pull it all out, as i said before its my daily... Haha, cheers N-DAWG, it was a pain in the arse at the time, but its for the best . I've got a dummy turbo i will put on it tonight, a stock R33 one which spat the rear wheel, cracked the front housing and stuffed the centre bearing, so i've gutted it, and welded it, so when i bolt that on the car will be a bit choked but will be fully drivable with the turbo manifold/dump etc fitted, and it gives me somthing to work from, finishing the cooler piping, while still having a car that goes. I'm thinking ill just T piece into the VCT and hope for the best I also have an ADJ exhaust cam gear and an AFC-4 Neo, which i can fit and get tuned to get the most out of it. I've set the timing to 15 degrees (from 30 ) also fitted NGK 7's, (replacing the 5's) to help cool the combustion chamber, but i've left the gap @ 1mm, since it will be fine on the low boost, and its sort of an overboost safety feature anyway (spark blow out) .

Hey All, The time has come to turbo the daily R33 N/A. Blew my clutch, so I put a GTR exedy HD clutch, billet lightweight flywheel and GTR gearbox under it. In the process of changing the gearbox, I stripped the engine back to a bare long motor (which was good as there were a fair few bolts that weren’t done up, seals/gaskets needing replacing etc). Anyway, I have put it back together with turbo injectors; I’ve fitted a turbo ECU & fuel pump, turbo manifold, High flow R33 turbo, 3" dump with merging waste gate pipe, high flow cat and larger exhaust. I've got all the stock GTST intercooler piping, crossover pipe, an aftermarket bov, R34 GTT intercooler, with 7" elec thermo fan and twin nozzle water spray (by using an elec bypass on windscreen washers, using an emissions vacuum solenoid, at full throttle, or when a button is pressed, the windscreen washer pump activates, and the solenoid swaps the water to go to the intercooler nozzles instead of the bonnet nozzles). So yeah, its all ready to go, my intention is to just have tame responsive power, ill get it on a 4wd dyno and adjust the boost and ign timing until I have a comfortable medium of reliable power and response. Anyway, that’s the back story - but my problem is, I have an oil feed from he block, but I don’t have an oil return, at the bottom of the block where it normally is... I'm guessing this is a GTS4 thing...? Don’t really want to unbolt everything and pull the engine out to 'do it properly', so I’m wondering how it would go, draining into the stock VCT return? I will replace the fitting with one with a larger inlet, and Y piece the turbo and VCT drains, I’m just curious if anyone knows the volume of oil that flows through this drain? Last thing i want is excessive drain backpressure, and blow the seals out of my turbo OR flood the head (I’ll fit an ATMO catch can, just in case anyway). Anyone got any info on this, or better yet, done it before? Cheers, -Dan

Not for long Nice graph though, would be really nice to drive, mines the same but a bit of a gap down low and it keeps climbing up top (more duration cams). If you gave it some mild cams i reckon you could easy net another 15-20kW from it (but atm it looks like it would have beautiful drivability)

I've got R33 GTST Stockies without tyres cheap...?

Does anyone know a good place to get boxes rebuilt? I suppose this is also an option...

Haha, yeah the old one was auto, I've had a bit of a 4wd fetish lately (great with all this wet weather), so i bought this, and its mad, I just got all the gear to turbo convert it, then the gearbox gave up on me. It was perfect, this was fairly random and unexpected (not due to miss treatment, I've babied it ). Juddie seemed to get good results from his N/A+T and this is just a daily, so i was thinking stock boost on a high flow, R34 cooler with 7" thermo fan, stock cooler piping and plumb back bov, etc (all the gear i have now collected) should have been quite snappy with the 4.3:1 final drive ratio, and the box being the same as the GTR should have been able to cope .

haha, Gunmetal Grey R33 GTS4, 4 Door, my daily, Dont have a pic atm, ill post one up when i do

My gearbox has decided to shit itself, anyone got a decent one laying about?