SKiT_R31

Also, it quick shifts fine, with little resistance and not crunch..?

Hey All, Ive recently bought an R33 GTS4 (N/A). The gearbox was always smooth and happy, but within the last week its started getting harder and harder to change gears, until its at the point now, where i can barely change gears at all, if i try to drive normally/sedate it wont take the gear, incredibly hard to push in and usually crunches in all gears (which before had perfect synchro's). I have to rev match down shifts and double clutch up shifts to actually change gears in the thing. I've replaced the oil, which was a bit metalic, and i have flushed and bled the clutch fluid, which externally appears to work perfect (the clutchfork goes all the way etc). It sound like a clutch issue right? But when idling on the spot, i can change between gears perfectly with no resistance, there is no creep, in fact i can take the clutch out halfway and rev the car with still no creep (engages at the end of the pedal) which is what makes me think the clutch is fine.... Also I'm not sure if its related, but before it happened and got really bad, it was making a strange sound in the gearbox/clutch area, like a fan hitting a cable tie, but it only did it at idle with the clutch pushed in, OR after 3000rpm when driving...???? And it only did it once, drove it home (~ 10 min drive) like that, and hasn't done it since i parked it... Any idea's? To stuff every gear it would have to be the main shaft in the gearbox or something? Or is it clutch related? Cheaper to fix or replace (i can fit the box myself) What gearboxes are 100% compatible (like no custom stuff), stagea? GTR? (what models?) thanks heaps, -Dan

Spotted: Maroon R33, written off, on the hwy near risdonvale, big crash, single vehicle (looks to have come off the road), hopefully no one from here?

Are you happy to post?

Hey All, I'm after some new suspension for my R33 GTS4 (its a 4 Door 4wd + turbo, so quite heavy >1450kg) and I'm after something street drivable (like not harsh and stiff, like a 50/50 compromise, happy street, and good handling). What sort of spring rates am i after? I've come across a lot of 8kg F and 6kg R, are these too stiff? and has anyone got any experience with; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BC-Adjustable-Coilo...id=p3286.c0.m14 or http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BC-Adjustable-Coilo...id=p3286.c0.m14 ?? Thanks.

nup, completely different. You best bet is RB25DE, which as its only temporary, will run fine even n/a with turbo gear (ecu/loom/sensors/injectors etc) or if you get one with injectors etc, using the N/A ecu on the det loom will be fine, the car will drive perfectly.

bump

I think your talking about the user RB30e? Dark blue over silver S2 silouette? http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=112677.0 Had some pretty hektic stuff done to it. As for the OP question, you'll find you can buy aftermarket pistons for the RB30e that net it around 10:1 - you could then further on that by decking the block to the amount the headgasket compresses to, and then shave the head the last bit if that isnt enough for you. Then get a nice cam, and lots of lift (rb30's dont have enough, even with an aftermarket cam) get some adj rockers. Balance the bottom end, get decent intake and exhaust manfolds, and a good ecu and you could net similar results, you just need to sit down and think through it, get an intake manifold, exhaust manifold and cam that matches, then work the bottom end to match and flow the head to match. Get it done, have a laught, then the sooner you can get fed up with the cam lag, bad economy and hopeless drivability, to drop the high comp slugs and fit some VLT spec forgies @ 7.8:1 (the amount you shaved the deck etc should bring you to a normalish comp with these) and drop a GT35 on it and have an absolute animal . I love my N/A monster, but its not a street car, if you want heaps of streetable power, you need boost, otherwise to retain drivability you can only achieve moderate increases.

yeah mate, just running non moulded hose should be fine.... I've got qan rb30 in a silvia and had to do that (heater core in different position). alternatively you could run non-moulded hose from the block outlet to the block inlet, and bypass the heater core all together.

Hey All, I'm turboing my N/A skyline, and i want the full setup (hoping to find someone that's upgraded it all). I want the Crossover pipe & BOV including the stock plumb back pipe, the inlet (from turbo to AFM), and the piping from the turbo to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the crossover pipe. I can handle the gear from an R33 (as its an R33 i'm turboing) but would prefer the R34 intercooler. prefer it all in good nic with nothing missing, will pay what its all worth. Cheers -Dan

http://www.kaila.net/tl125/tl125ngkcode.html BCPR6E & BCPR6ES are the same, its BCPR6EY which have the V in. Normal spark plugs arent copper, they are nickel, but copper cored. If they were copper, there would be no market for iridiums (as copper is alot more conductive), copper itself couldnt handle the temp's in a combustion chamber.

Both engines run the same fuel pressure, so it should be OK as a temporary solution

There is obviously somthing wrong with your cars, I've had an N/A before and it had beautiful economy (10-11L/100 city) i had a turbo one and it was exactly the same (stock). I now have an R33 GTS4, and its not quite as good, about the same as what others are getting (12-15L/100 pending driving style) and i know its not right, i can smell fuel at idle, plugs are black. Car drives perfectly though. I think some of you need to do a diagnostics check with your ecu's, make sure all the sensors are right and happy (especially the O2 sensor). Replace the fuel filter, contact clean the AFM, check for fuel leaks (out the filler cap, along the fuel lines, you'd be suprised). I'm doing a full service on my GTS4 this weekend, and will be suprised if i cant get it down to a happy steady <11-12L/100 (it wont be as good as my other cars since it is a 4 door 4WD, i.e. more weight). I've got a new genuine O2 sensor, some electric contact cleaner (non residue) - the car has an oiled K & N pod, i'm going to fit a paper APEXi (non oiled), some thinner 100% synthetic oil (its got like 20-50 in it atm :|) new filters, etc. Ontop of this i will do a diagnostics check, retention belts and check pulley's for resistance, and replace all my fuel lines (as they are all cracked and on the edge of leaking, if not already). As for plugs, it supposidly has iridiums in it, i'm going to check these, clean and gap (i cant remember if they were 5's or 6's) if they are 6's i will fit 5's (and keep the 6's for when its boosted), as people would be suprised the difference a plug temp range makes to efficiency. On top of this, i've tested the timing and noted it is 30 degree's advanced, im concerned it might be R & R'ing (though its perfectly smooth and i've heard no detonation) i'll wind it back to ~ 20 and see how it goes. I am interested in peoples results with the splitfires, as this car has them fitted, i cant really see how coilpacks could be detrimental to economy, but if im still having economy issues, i have a new set of genuines i can fit. Perhaps the issue with them is just from O2 sensors being faulty from unburnt fuel after the previous coilpacks died? And if all that fails, it has to be an issue with injectors, remember they are quite old, and normal wear will make them flow too much. I have some new 25det injectors, which i will fit when i turbo this car, so if its just injectors, ill live with the economy until then (when ill PFC it as well and economy tune it for some tame power - as this is my daily). So yeah, might be some things their for people to try, oh and i run ALL my cars on E10 98ron, from my high comp high powered N/A, my 30DET silvia, my 30E+T R31, 7MGE+T cressy, subaru's etc, it is a beautiful fuel, clean (open up an engine that uses it, its silver metal, not carbon black), great knock resistance (better than normal 98ron imo). Cars love it, and economy doesnt change for the negative, i find i get a touch better city, and a touch worse hwy (because lambda O2 sensors) but it all evens out for the posetive (since its about 20c per litre cheaper). Off topic, but does anyone know if there is anything different with the 4WD ECU's compared to a normal 25de/t ecu? sorry for the essay...

Hey mate, i have an RB25DET, only series one, 75,000 original k's (i have the dash) from an automatic (auto engines are usually a lot healthier, since they cant be labored, and haven't had such a harsh life). What do you mean by complete? This is the Full engine, with all electrics, manifolds, etc only missing the turbo, and i don't have a wiring loom for it, its 100% original/standard.

camshaft, its not a part of the exhaust, its an internal part of the engine.

This is correct, and fine if your removing the weight of accessory pulelys etc, but the crank pulley is needed as a balencer to help harmonics issues the straight 6's have like Chrispy said. Some people actually go heavier... Yes underdrive pulley's will give some effect, but not much, they are more necesary if your engine spends most of its time in the higher rev range (instead of its designed lower rpm operating range) since for example an alternator might peak at ~ 3000rpm engine speed, after that its just waste, or a water pump might spin too fast to have enough cooling time in the radiator (and thermostats being non-intelligent will just be fully open, when they need to be restricting to slow down waterflow so the radiator can cool it effectively). underdriving power steering, will do nothing, as there is next to no load when not steering (if you cut your PS belt on a dyno, i'd be suprised if it made 0.1kw [100w] difference). Water pump, you should go electric, for best temperature control, otherwise when not revving the ballbag out of your engine (i.e. long idling, low speed traffic) your going to cook your engine, wheres an electric water pump will have alot more control, and less drain + no cavitation. Ditto for thermo fan. I'd say leave your power steering alone, and then all thats left is alternator, which depends on your current draw, if you turn on all your accessory's, lights etc, and the alternator is still producing more power than there is being drawn (when underdriven at idle) then thats fine, but if its not, it will just be more hastle then its worth, for the sake of a kW or 2... You might be able to get a high amperage alternator and underdrive that, but $ per kW, possibly not the best investment. remove your clutch fan for sure, water pump if your keen (and go electric), but everything else i would leave as is. Best bang for buck though is to save for some cams, $500-$600 will get you some regrinds, $900 will get you some billet brand names (which can be more wild) if your on stock management (bound by stock rev limit + vct), try and keep the duration low and the lift high. If you go the CAM route, you might want to let it breath a little easier also, with a larger or twin TB, and apppropriate sized intake.

I agree with the above post (GTS4WD), speaking from experience as i own an R33 GTS4 (as a daily). There is no power loss from the 4WD system as written, however there is >100kg more weight. That said, they are fantastic, like other n/a's they have the 4.36 diff gears, they are damn zippy, pissing down with rain, stomp it and you just zoom off, no spin (just a slip light..) flat to the floor around corners, they are just awesome to drive. I have had a turbo R33, i have a 150rwkw+ R31 (rb30de) and a powerful turbo (rb30e+t) r31 wagon (my towcar). Of all of them, the R33 is the most fun you can have legally (i.e. no sideways/smokestorms or speeding) which is why it suits me for a daily car (used to drive my wagon, but when you put the foot down in boost with 245's, it just lights them up and its takes too much self control... and fuel...) R33 you limiter in first = 50kmph, ie. speed limit, limiter in second is 85.... its so smooth, and it just pulls in the wet with no wheelspin. I wouldn't want to own an N/A skyline that wasnt 4wd (excluding 31 ). once i sell my wagon ill be putting on a stockish turbo setup (powerfc+vg30+r34cooler & piping, for a tame ~ 180kW atw) but it really doesn't need it, I'm just out of control, and like to have power on tap (since the grip is available), i bought the gts4 because i fell in love with the 4wd, and the car (its tidy as, and was cheap), and i wanted a 4 door. Back in my P days, if i was in the position of you mainlanders and had the money, I'd be sourcing an R34 4 door N/A, they have a lot of bottle necks which if you opened up you could gain a decent amount of power with the engine looking bog stock. For starters N/A r34's have a shit exhaust cam (emissions?), so i'd either fit a turbo ex cam, for the lift, or mild aftermarkets, shave about 20thou off the head, colder plugs, cooler thermostat and oversize TB with an SAFC/PFC, and your usual exhaust (keep it quiet and no canon, maybe factory 25det) and you could have some decent go, n/a and look standard (if your capable/can afford the mods, they are fairly cheap and effective though, on a healthy motor) otherwise subaru liberty bilstien, these are a nice car, the 2.5L, reasonable power, reasonable handling, they're quite a happy car to putt in, but still, a skyline would be better... but your on a skyline forum

hah sorry i never got back to you, the car starts and idles but doesnt run properly, it badly need a tune, so its been sitting there while i sort out the last few bits to put on it and wait till i can get it tuned .

I very much doubt they could remap an R33 ecu. Retuning your ecu will not effect your engine life, its how you drive that will effect engine life. While gains might not be as high as with a modded turbo motor, there will still be gains, bit more power through the rev range, and more economical is a possibilty. You would need aftermarket management or a piggy back ECU to tune though. Somthing like an SAFC might net you a tiny amount more power, and some better fuel economy, but you would need somthing like an Emanage Ultimate (in tems of piggy back) or a Power FC (for full management) to get the full benefit from tuning your engine, by altering ignition timing, etc. Once you start getting into ignition tuning, including the unit and dyno time, its going to end up costing a fair bit of money, for not too much gain.

it only earths to one, not all. Therefore your just shiilding the spark with the other earths. Single is best!

ugh, no sorry, hit a few speed bumps with the wiring and electronics, hoping to atleast get it started this weekend. I'm in tas so its cold wet and dark atm, sort of dampers motivation...

Hey all, I've got an R33 RB25DET engine for sale, has 75,000 original kms (i have the dash, its never been appart). The motor is from an automatic (auto's have the best engines, as you cant labour them). Has perfect compression on all cylinders, motor is in great condition, no leaks etc. Its a full motor, so includes intake manifold, injectors, exhaust manifold, turbo, CAS, coil packs, all the general stuff - just no loom/afm/ecu (though i do have an ECU). After $1800 for it, i am willing to sell without turbo/exh manifold for $1500. Was going to put it in my GF's silvia, but ended up building a 30DET in there instead (as you do... ). havnt taken any pics, but there's nothing to look at, its a completely standards rb25det, cleam and tidy. Located in Glenorchy, Thanks, -Dan

Spark plugs have a fairly tight thread, the difference between a plug facing one way or the other is a bee's dick. Also, copper is an incredibly soft metal, if you remove the factorry spark plug washer, and use a slightly thicker copper washer (you have to account for the squash in the copper, which will bring it about to where the stock washer would have been) you then tighten until the plug is firm and faces the right direction, due to the soft nature of copper you can generally get at least a full turn out of it which is the same torque, but just squashing the copper. I love even cylindars, all identical compression, identical flow injectors and identical facing plugs, makes for near identical combustion, meaning you can push the limits more in terms of a/f mixture and ignition timing. Tuning how you should be tuning, using a pyrometer, not guesswork listening for detonation and over fueling using an wideband. People underestimate the difference between cylinders, with some being lean, and burning different, added exhaust restriction (meaning hotter) could be the difference between popping your engine, or way better fuel economy, or alot more power - i.e. all cylendars are happy with 40degree's ign, except one, which pings after 25degree's, because it is both lean, and exhaust restricted, meaning richer fuel mixtures and less ignition timing and/or boost = alot less power, less drivability and worse economy. offtopic anyway

You mean the belt gear behind the balencer? they are supposed to jsut slip off, i find the harder ones need crowbar persuasion...

How much for AFM?