GTaaargh

This is a good article on changing the O2 sensor on an R33 / R34 GTR. I've added it as a link to my GTaaargh O2 sensor page If you find any part numbers that fit skylines or other useful links, let me know using the link at the bottom of my web page and I'll update the table. It saves trawling through 19 pages. James

OK. The table is now updated. Did it have a Bosch number on it? Let me know if you ran across any problems. BTW - if you want the table updated you should use the email link on my page. I don't visit SAU all that regularly any more. I'm always happy to receive updates though - especially the more obscure models. Keep them coming! James

I'm very happy to move the table to Skylines Australia. It could be good for forum membership too - if I leave the table as it is on my site I can advise those who find it using Google etc to join SAU for an updated table. Before I went back to study I thought this site was looking at hosting some pages, and starting a wiki. I can't see any reference to them on the front page, so I guess they both fell through. Do you have any suggestions on the best way to pass the table over to SAU so that members can add to the table when they find information? If it's a stickied posting we could end up with 26 pages of comments to it because no-one can edit the table in the lead posting. Or am I misunderstanding sticky postings?

I tried to get the info together a while back. I put it in http://members.pcug.org.au/~jdeakins/facts.html It's obviously incomplete. Most of it came from an old copy of the FAST database someone had. I updated one or two entries after asking the local Nissan dealer for info from his up-to-date FAST database, but that's all the time he could spare. I talked to NTK in Melbourne and found them to be very helpful. Only thing is, I suspect they have the part numbers for the front and back sensors R32 GTR swapped. Either that, or someone in Japan swapped mine. From memory, NTK only have one of the two R32 GTR sensors available - but that was a year or so ago, the last time I checked.

I've tried to replicate it, but can't. It's not an anti-hijack option, and the door does not lock when I turn off the ignition - even if I wait for a couple of minutes. It does arm the alarm though. The beeps I heard were the normal warning you get when you leave the headlights on and turn the ignition off - but I had the ignition on. The car was still running, and the turbo timer wasn't enabled. The company that installed it, and the company who supplied it both had no idea why it would have happened. I guess I'll just have to put it down to bad luck, or strong magnetic fields, or aliens or something. Damn aliens.

Tonight I got out of my car to post a letter. The street was quiet, so I left the motor running. As I got out of the car something beeped a couple of times. I assumed it was the car reminding me I had the door open, the engine running and the lights on. Then when I got back to the car, the doors were locked. The remote and key were inside, the radio was working, the headlights were on etc, and I was locked outside. I rang my wife and she brought the spare remote. It didn't unlock the door. She went home again and brought back the spare key. I was able to get back in. All up, it was idling by the side of the road for nearly an hour. I have a 3 point Flashpoint alarm. Does anyone have any idea why the door locked, and why the spare remote wouldn't unlock the door?

Bump. Still interested.

Peter Pulford of Pulford Racing Engines in Mitchell did a really neat job welding up my aluminium intercooler after someone reversed into it with a towbar. He also builds very nice race engines. He gets my vote.

I'm told the car was blue. It would have happened between 17:50 and 17:55.

A Skyline crashed on Ginninderra Drive this evening at around 6pm. Hopefully there were no injuries and not too much damage, but given the rubber marks I suspect it wasn't good. The car was a dark colour. There were rubber marks on the road, so it looks as though it locked up before hitting the other car/s in the lane ahead of it. They were still cleaning up the mess around 7pm.

Well, I used more revs and shifted later, but I actually used a little more gas. But 15km isn't a lot of difference. It doesn't prove it one way or the other. I set up my Consult cable again and ran up the latest version of Nissan Data Scan. Then I checked up PaulR33's excellent page on Power-FC ECUs. It sort of explained the fuel map table, but I'm still a little unclear. As I understand it, the fuel map works on revs and load (as measured by the AFMs). Does the number in the table represent the amount of time the injectors are open? I'm sure the question has been answered somewhere here, but I tried searching the forums, and there were over 450 threads that mentioned "fuel map", and it took around 15 mins to scan 2 of them. If it is the time the injectors are open, is that a good indicator of the fuel economy (ie twice the number = twice the usage)?

Easy. If it's as good as new and cheap I'd prefer to have the extra money in my pocket. However, if it's new and not much more expensive than second hand, there's no question about it. Buy new. How much did you pay for the rear set from Nissan?

Bump. Hey - speaking of bumps, that's the problem with my old shocks! C'mon. Someone must have a good set that they want to sell.

I heard a while back that Jake in Mitchell imported all the Power-FC tuning gear and software from Japan. You might want to give him a call too. you can get a dyno tune while you're at it

Bump. C'mon guys. I want my new suspension fitted. Sell me your left-overs!

Thanks RowdyR32. I'd prefer to buy all four at the same time, but I'll keep you in mind if anyone is selling a set of rears. Thanks Hanyou. A shame you won't separate. Anyone else? I can get them from a dealer but would prefer to help make garage space for a fellow member (and to pay less than the dealers are asking).

I'm 'downgrading' from pillow tops to standard shocks for my R32 GTR. However, I need a set of good condition standard front and rear strut tops. Got any you want to sell? Thanks, James

I'm finally getting my pillow top suspension replaced. No more 'clunks' and bumpy ride! Woohoo. I bought the suspension kit recommended by SydneyKid but neglected to get strut tops to replace the pillow ball suspension mounts. I can get them from a dismantler in Sydney, but would prefer to buy locally. So, does anyone have a spare set of good condition front and rear strut tops lying around that they would be willing to sell? Let me know soon, otherwise I'll buy from Sydney. Thanks! James

And make sure your EVC 4 is working OK. Mine had a leaky hose that meant I was running maximum boost. I was lucky I didn't break anything before I got it to the dyno shop. Ask the dyno shop to check that it's set up right. Once you know the settings are right, lock 'em. Note any offsets and settings. I've found (twice) that punching buttons in traffic has put me into the setup menu and I've lost settings. It's a pain. If it's an import, or you are unsure of its service history, make sure that you replace ALL fluids and get the dyno people to check it over. It's cheap insurance for your pride and joy.

I don't see it as a dumb idea Nuffin, it's what R33S2 said - I'm interested in knowing if it is possible to get turbo on demand. The car has reasonable torque, so it could probably run with no boost - and if it was a real problem, maybe I could set the spring to 3 or 5 pounds. Anyway, if I wanted the extra power up a hill, I'd switch on the boost controller, which was the whole point. Thanks for the explanation Paul. Most of the time I drive around town in 5th, but back to 4th for hills. So you reckon I should drive with more revs in lower gears when accelerating, rather than putting it into a higher gear and keeping the revs down? I normally don't take it over about 3500 when accelerating in city traffic.

I drive my GTR like a grandmother to keep the fuel economy reasonably. Last tank was 430km around town, so it works, but it's a pain. I have a wastegate that opens mechanically at 9 pounds. The boost controller is set to 12 pounds and 16 pounds. Most of the time I drive around with the boost controller turned off because 9 pounds gets me to work and back comfortably. When it's fun-time, the boost controller goes on and I live with the (drastically) reduced fuel economy. After all, that's why I own the car. I rarely use the 12 pounds though. It occurred to me that if I had the wastegate open mechanically at, say, one pound pressure, I might improve the fuel economy and not affect the around-town driving performance too much. I could reset the boost controller to 9 pounds and 16 pounds, and use it when I want to drive a turbo'd car. Is there any reason this wouldn't work? If it's feasible, what is involved in reducing the pressure needed to open the wastegate?

Hi all. If anyone is after a 1995 GTR V-Spec, there's one being auctioned by Dominion in Fyshwick. Link is Here It's not mine, and I do not know the owner or have any interest in it. I like the bit about the economical street use on 25lb boost. It's also interesting to see that he's getting 355kw out of 540cc injectors. They must be getting awfully close to maximum flow.

Hey - it could be worse. I've got an R32 GTR with an oil cooler. The sandwich plate goes between the block and the oil filter. There's even less space to work with. Oh - and to make it even more fun, there's a special small oil filter - a Mobil 1 high efficiency one. I bought what I thought was the right one from the US, but they're obviously the wrong size. Now I don't have an oil filter to fit next time I change the oil I'll do you a swap. you change mine, and I'll change yours By the way, does anyone need a Mobil 1 M1-111 High Efficiency Oil Filter at cost price? It has 98% particle removal at 10 to 20 microns.

Gary, I'm interested in getting springs for my Quantum shocks, but while I'm at it, I want to fix up the racket from my worn pillow tops. I received a quote from the Shock Absorber Reconditioners who told me it would cost at least $700 to refurbish the pillow tops, and that was at just about cost price! Normally they do them for around $35 each, but the Quantums are an odd size and can only be bought through one distributor, and he charges heaps. Do you know if it is possible to replace pillow tops with standard shock absorber fittings? If so, I'll get the springs and finally get my suspension comfortable and quiet. Otherwise I'll have to go the whole hog and replace the springs. There is no way I want to spend half the price of a complete set of shocks just on the pillow tops.

Last weekend I drove my R32 GTR from Canberra to Sydney then back. I was using Optimax and was driving carefully but not slowly - I wanted to see what sort of economy I could get. I managed: 11.54 L / 100km (20.38mpg) on the way to Sydney (downhill), then 12.06 L / 100km (19.51mpg) on the way back. That's still not as good as a Commodore , but it works out to be just on 700 km per tank of 80 litres. I normally get around 400 km driving around town, but fill before the light goes on.