GTaaargh

A quick note from the land of fireworks, porn (and pathetic pollies) - You can now buy 'wide angle' LEDs. The light isn't as directional as normal LEDs. Not sure if Jaycar have them, but LEDSales do. Try http://www.ledsales.com.au/cart.php?target...y&category_id=2 You can also buy bulbs already set up with the LEDs set in the correct plug. Not sure where from, but I've seen them on eBay.

I summarised all the part numbers for O2 sensors from a non-current version of FAST in http://www.pcug.org.au/~jdeakins/facts.html There are: two part numbers for the 08/93 to 11/93 R33 RB25DET, two part numbers for the 11/93 to 01/96 and 01/96 to 11/97, and two part numbers for the 11/97 onwards.

So what sort of lap times were you getting?

How does this sound? An FAQ entry called "Oxygen (O2) Sensors" My guess is that people are mainly interested in looking up an O2 Sensor FAQ to see which sensor fits their vehicle, so they will need quick access by model, motor etc. The FAQ could have a table (or point to a web page with a table) that showed the series, model, motor and the official Nissan part number/s, known alternative part numbers (ie, ACA, NTK, Bosch etc), type (Zirconia or Titania), plug type (ie 3 or 4 pin or bare wires), sensor size, cable length and comments. Why all the technical details? Because manufacturers can supply alternatives based on the sensor and plug type, cable length etc. People could post new information, but only about which sensors fit what. It can then be moved up into the main table. The general discussion about fuel economy etc should stay in the General Maintenance forum. I can't guarantee to update the FAQ every time there is a new posting because I have exams and assignments that have to take priority.

Nope. you're not missing anything. I just prefer not to splice. I read somewhere that water getting into the sheath and down to the sensor would cause them to fail, but do you think I can find the reference? Anyway, if we can get the correct parts, why not figure out which ones they are and organise to get them sent to OZ? That way people wanting sensors next year can just go to the local shop and not have to read 20 pages of thread figuring out which alternative they can use BTW. I went and bought one of those $158 Dick Smith oscilloscopes. I want to get a look at this signal and figure out once and for all if I have lazy sensors. I'll have a go when I finish my exams.

That's only one of the two you need for an R32 GTR. I promised to get back to their tech person with some details from this forum so they could confirm the second one (I'll have to ask them to fix the dates too). The outstanding problem is the length, and which is front and which is back. Nissan FAST shows part number 22690-A as a square plug and at the **rear** of the motor. Part 22690 with a flat plug is shown at the **front** of the engine. I reckon the diagram is wrong, so can a couple of people check their R32 GTRs and tell me if the square plug goes on the front or the back of the motor? Also, check out the length of the cable with the square plug. If you think a cable which is 435mm would fit (my original one is 490mm), then NTK can get in part number OTD2F-P1L1. So, would a 435mm cable fit? If we can get the engines and NTK part numbers confirmed I'm pretty sure NTK will update their site with the info for all models we can identify. Another part number for the list: The people in lambdasensors.com in Britain sell Bosch part number 0 258 003 256 for Skylines. It's originally for a Nissan Micra. No good for R32 GTRs though. It's Zirconia based, not Titana.

Do you have one of those things in your dash that goes 'ping' when you hit 100? Mine does at 105, so if I heard it, I would pay.

A heads up on alarms. I've heard of a couple of people who get flat batteries after leaving the car unused for a fortnight. One found out he had his turbo timer relay wired up incorrectly. The others still have problems. It's really unhealthy for the battery if it gets flattened too many times. And really annoying. Oh. And if someone steals your car, the alarm won't go off If you're going to leave the car sitting for long, make sure you get an alarm that doesn't draw too much power, and that it is fitted by someone competent.

I was going to go, but had one too many beers watching the AFL. I may as well have though... St Kilda lost. Badly. Yesterday I met a guy from Queenbeyan. He has an R33 GTR which only has around 30,000 km on it. Nice car. He imported it himself. I told him about the forum, so maybe he'll become a regular.

400rwhp = 298.28RWKW so yes, it is just under 300 RWKW. Damn close though

Woohoo. I sent off another request this morning, now I'm back on!

What's the bet every RBT unit in Canberra is lined up outside to congratulate the people who actually managed to dring their $100 worth

I didn't see this bug under the obvious titles, so I hope this is the first time it's been reported. Otherwise, apologies. Under the PM SENT TO folder, it shows all the "This Message Was Sent To" entries as my username, not the user it was sent to. Even if I look at the message I cannot see who the message was sent to. Keep up the good work guys. And I agree with the user who suggested it was time to make a donation to help cover Christian's costs. It's obviously taking lots of time as well as lots of money. Next payday. Thanks.

I met a bunch of Skyline owners last night. A nice bunch. One thing had me worried though. Most of the GTR owners had their engines fail within 12 months of getting their cars. The failures (broken ringlands, melted pistons etc.) were caused by lower octane fuel, detonation and poor fuel mapping. I can understand how the fuel and fuel mapping could cause an engine to fail, but I thought the knock sensors would protect it from detonation damage. But the main issue is the proportion of owners who needed a rebuild. Why aren't the knock sensors stopping the damage? Do motors die that quickly in Australia? Is this just a poor sample group?

Scratching the cylinder wall. The scratches have to be machined out. This increases the bore size. Then you need oversize rings for the pistons, unless the scratches are too deep, in which case you have bigger problems

Check out this link, (the result of a Google search on Oxygen sensor multimeter) . Also check out the Bench Test link there. Alternately, is there a cheap dyno shop nearby?

Hi. I had a Diesel truck and had the option of turboing it. I chose to ditch the old engine and put in one that came with a turbo. There wasn't a huge difference in price (new turbo vs old engine plus old turbo). The result was like having an extra 2 gears. Amazing. Also, there was no difference in fuel economy (but still worse than my R32 GTR) The downside? Engineer's certicates, rego/insurance issues, grief and the cubic dollars spent. My advice? Don't turbo the escort engine or do a transplant Sell the escort and buy the car with the engine you really want.

Jap imports are available in Canada.

It seems to work OK for my car, I just want to know the difference between the blue and red squares and what the values in them mean.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I have a question about the display in Nissan DataScan. On the Datascan Home page, it shows a map tracing with numbers in blue and red squares. From memory, there is one for timing, and one for fuel, although they're not both shown on the page. What do they mean?

It's strange. I can't identify when it went away, but I took the car to Ed at Advantra in Queanbeyan, and the problem was still there, then shortly afterwards it went away. Ed was only checking bits, so maybe he tightened something and stopped a leak. Maybe it was the coils. Who knows. I certainly don't - unless it's the vacuum assist for the clutch. It's stuffed, so maybe there was an intermittent vacuum leak, which would fit the symptoms. However, I took the car to the dyno tune shop on Monday and he pointed out that my closed loop was going until 4,200 rpm, and it didn't matter if if was full or partial throttle. Normally it would cut out at around 3,000. His theory was that I have 80mm AFMs. Maybe the voltage for 80mm AFMs at 4,200 was the same as standard AFMs at 3,000 rpm.

I take back what I said about the JBL speakers fitting. The holes line up, but they're a little too deep to be direct replacements.

I had my car run up on the dyno to check whether the O2 sensors were working on my GTR. I was interested in knowing when it was in closed loop, as that's where the best fuel economy should be. Apparently the standard R32 GTR is in closed loop until around 3000 rpm if it is under light load (< 30% ?). Mine stays in closed loop until 4200 even under full load. His guess was that at 4200 rpm, my 80mm AFMs were putting out the same voltage as the standard AFMs did at around 3000 rpm. The result is that I'm still in closed loop when I'm on 4 lb boost. Does his suggestion sound reasonable?

Thanks, Shall do.

I've found a pair and measured them up. The one with the flat 3 pin plug looks like a perfect match. The one with the square plug is about 6cm shorter that the original, which is pretty close, but I may as well ask and see if they have something that matches exactly. Duncan, would you measure up the one with the square plug, just in case the one I have isn't original? I've put all the stuff I've found so far in Sensor page but there are lots of holes and a couple of guesses. If you can give me any info to make the table more complete, I'd appreciate it. If anyone has Nissan Fast with the specs for the R31 3 litre Skyline (AKA VL dunnydoor), could they PM me the part number of the Oxygen Sensor? Thanks.