konect

My first though. Can't believe its still the same colour. Needs a bigger turbo though, that looks like it only makes about 200rwkw's right?

Hey, I have cluster but from memory it had a white coloured bulb in it so I suspect they have been replaced at some point. The speedo (or tacho, I can't remember) doesn't work in it so you can have it for a few bucks + postage if you want it.

Yeh its nice being able to leave it on jack stands and work on it when I feel like it Need to get yourself a place with a shed!

flares are sweet. hard to find!

Been a while since I updated this... Still haven't got the vibration fixed for a variety of reasons but expect to be able to take it in late June. I've spent the time doing a few other bits and pieces on the car. While chasing vibration issues I noticed one wheel had a lot of movement for I bought new tension rods for the rear. Stock ones were gone and it's much stiffer now. Finished carpeting over the metal sheet in the back and blocking the boot off from the interior. So much quieter now! When I was tidying up the wiring in the back I noticed there was a heap of sandy gravel in the wheel arch. Upon inspection I found that when the arch was flared they never sealed it up. The passenger side has been fibreglassed at some point but the drivers was wide open. Welded some patches on it, bogged with metal reinforced filler, covered with tar coating. The car never had an overflow from the header tank when I got it so I finally went to pick-a-part and found a radiator overflow I liked the shape of and would fit in the space I had. Think it came out of an Excel or something. Welded up a bracket for it to slide on to and got some silicon line. Working nicely now and doesn't spew out on the ground like it used to! From November to March I was dealing with GKTech and their tie rod ends. Many dramas and I eventually got them to agree that they actually needed to provide jam nuts for them. I received jam nuts but I know a few people that haven't. Don't buy these - there are a danger without jam nuts and a pretty crap design all round. Also got some new Hardrace tie rods with lock spacers built in at the same time but had to trim them a bit to get the tie rod ends to fit with them. Got a footrest and new climate control unit as the old one was busted and stuck on full fan and heat. This was a highlight of the last few months. You can imagine how much it sucks driving with the heater on full all the time. Painted the drivers rear arch and welded up the crack in the passenger side front arch. The front one cracked the weld on the flare from bottoming out when we blew a strut driving it home from QLD. Came up alright for a spray can job! Took the car for a spin, pulled into the servo and noticed the front brake line leaking. Got braided lines. The front ones are really long but looks like they need to be in order to have enough length at full lock. Bit too close to the sway bar for my liking but apparently normal... Just this week while the car is on jackstands after doing the braided lines I put new steering rack bushes in. Passenger side took about 1 min. Drivers side took about 1 hour and a lot of swearing. And now we are here.... Coming up in the next few months: Replace more bushes front and rear (I'm a bit addicted to this at the moment as they are so cheap!) Get a wheel alignment to correct everything Get vibration investigated Get a tune Drive it somewhere

Finally got around to fitting these (still haven't bled them - #jackstandlyf) and went together ok but there is a lot of thread outside the caliper. I spoke with HEL and the said it will be fine as it only needs a few threads to fit in there. Apparently they use the same fitting for multiple vehicles so just use a really long one. * Random comment - I put "my g o d" in this post and it changes it to "my rajab" how odd!

All sooooold.

Hi guys, I'm pretty sure I posted these before but I can't find the topic. Got a full set of ceffy panels sitting in my shed that I need to get rid of ASAP to make room. Really need to get rid of them so throw me an offer! Take them as a package for $500 neg Doors $100 each / $80 for dented one - All four doors are available. The passenger front has a dent in the door but the glass is still in tact. They have glass, mirrors, window regs, handles etc. Except I may need to remove the handle mechanism from the drivers door if I can't fix the one in my car. Bonnet $100 - Straight bonnet with under protection bits. It will need a paint as it's had a crap respray at some point. Boot lid $100 - Straight boot lid with no lifting of bog etc. Located in Melton, pickup only due to size.

Cleaning out my shed I've discovered a Cefiro din pocket that I don't need as I've got a double din gauge setup. Take it away for $30. Located in Melton West, 3337. Will post at buyers expense.

You can have my rear door trims. Also got all 4 doors, bonnet and boot lid available. http://www.gumtree.com.au/m-my-ad.html?adId=1042017616

Too slow. Ordered the S13 > R33 lines today. See how they go...

Awesome, thanks mate! I found out HEL do an S13 kit for R33 calipers too. Which one do you reckon I should get? Same price so I'm thinking the S13/R33 one might be easier to put in..... S13 kit for R33 front and rear calipers OR Standard S13 kit

Here's a pic, sorry its crap, I was too lazy to jack the car up and take the wheel off. I'll do it if you can't see the important bits....

You'll need to be more specific about which parts - maybe some pictures would help. What do you mean by rubber lining for the doors, do you mean the seals that go around the door or the door cards?

Hi folks, Finally took the cef for a spin after 4 months of being on jack stands and noticed the passenger front brake line leaking. I'm going to purchase some braided lines for it but wondering if there is a difference between Nissan models. I've got R33 front calipers with what I assume is the standard hard lines. Any recommendations about which kit to get? Thanks. http://www.prospeedracing.com.au/categories/Braking/Brake-Lines-%28ADR-Approved%29/HEL-Performance-%28ADR-Approved%29/

1j is pretty cool

Did you build the cage yourself or get someone to do it for you?

---- Complete CEFIRO Bootlid, bonnet and doors for sale ----- Located in Melton, VIC. PM me on here to arrange pickup. Won't post due to size. I've had these sitting in my shed for a while now and want to recover some space. Take them as a package for $600 Doors $120 each / $100 for dented one - All four doors are available. The passenger front has a dent in the door but the glass is still in tact. They have glass, mirrors, window regs, handles etc. Except I may need to remove the handle mechanism from the drivers door if I can't fix the one in my car. Bonnet $150 - Straight bonnet with under protection bits. It will need a paint as it's had a crap respray at some point. Boot lid $100 - Straight boot lid with no lifting of bog etc.

Update... Revisted the driveshaft shop and they put it on the hoist again. They suggested the box alignment was affecting the angle of the front section and suggested I play with the spacing between the box/crossmembers and the centre bearing/body. Spaced the box up but no love. Ran the car with wheels off and touched various parts and the vibration is entering the body from the centre bearing mount (which I suspected from feeling the tunnel). Plan for this weekend will be to replace the centre bearing and see how that goes. It feels solid and apparently is ok but there is almost zero movement in it and my research tells me that it should have some movement in there so I'll give it a go. The car was sitting for a while so its possible it has seized (no idea how old the bearing would be...). If that is no good I'll consider a 1 piece shaft in the coming months but this may require an exhaust mod too.

I don't use the exhaust hanger off the rear of the mount - was like this when I bought the car. Engine mounts - Possible, but they look ok and without the tailshaft connected there is no vibration. Centre bearing - Had it inspected when the shaft was out and is all good. Diff mounts/bushes - Solid bushes all round and diff mounts are solid. When I was test driving it last night it does feel isolated to where the rear of the box joins the tailshaft. I noticed that 2 of the bolts don't do up tightly on the crossmember so I'm going to tap them out to 12mm x 1.25 tonight and see how it is after they are fully tightened.

Gearbox mount replaced and it 'seems' a bit better but still vibrates almost as soon as I hit 70km/h >.< No more ideas now...

Took it to the driveshaft place again and they suggested the alignment of the gearbox looks to be off due to a sunken mount. Waiting on delivery of a Nismo gearbox mount and hopefully that fixes it!

Not much to update here...tune got cancelled as I've had a vibration develop somewhere in the driveline. Comes on about 70km/h and shakes the whole car. Done a few things to find it so far with no luck. I've ordered a Nismo gearbox mount with some new cross member bolts and if this doesn't fix it I have no idea..... Hopefully have more news soon!

WTB interior parts.

Vibration is still there... Removed the rear wheels and tightened the lug nuts on to hold the discs in place to 100% eliminate wheel issues. Swapped the diff last night for a stock r32 item Rechecked the gearbox yoke, centre bearing Other possibilities: One of the rear drive shafts are dodgy - vibration definitely feels closer to the front though Gearbox has an internal issue of some sort that is only affected when the tailshaft is attached Anyone know of a good driveline workshop on the Westside? I'm almost at the stage where I'll take it to a shop and say...