SkyDragon

Could I get this VIN fasted please Engine Number: RB25148913A VIN: ECR33102386 I there anyway to know if your engine is the original one?

Im in WA, little far to go, however tempting! Cheers for the offer. The manager was saying the car is acting like an NA car when timing is inserted. Compression is way to high and subsequently the car just wont handle anymore power without pinging. By the sounds of everyone here the I will buy the injectors and retune with someone else and see what happens. The person who tuned my car has a very high reputation here in WA with wolf ECU's. In fact I have heard he has assisted them with some of the development process over the years. Most consider him to be the top man here in WA. I will not name publicly on a forum. Thanks for everyones feedback, I hope to get to the bottom of this. Funnily enough I contacted the guy whose post i linked earlier in this thread who had the same issue, he says he has STILL not gotten to the bottom of it and he has had 550cc injectors all along!!

Not the issue at all. I completely see the sense in spending $700~ on injectors, however the tuner repeatedly tells me that this IS NOT the issue as the duty cycle on the injectors was only 80% when the pinging began to occur. My issue sounds almost identical to this one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gurus-t219935.html No resolution in the end though???

Tuner tells me "engine starts pinging when more timing is entered into the engine. Fuel is not an issue, I am getting plenty of fuel when needed." "The wolfs do a great job of getting plenty of fuel out of the stock injectors" He says the reason why I am getting 85% at 13.4 psi is because he put a richer tune in the car to be safe. Only other variable could be bad fuel?? Car had BP98 when tuned? Bad batch? Yes Choku I have been told he FPR's are not really needed.

Thats exactly right these are fundamental things and I have no idea why/how someone with an apparent high reputation could miss this??? Without painfully spending more $$ on a retune with another tuner and finding out the inevitable. I guess I may aswell purchase injectors and fuel pressure regulator then take it to a different tuner? I already have an aftermarket fuel pump. But before I do this I will post the dyno chart tomorrow.

Just went for a drive, got the below numbers.... injector duty highest reading was 85.2 at 13.4 psi. First time I have done this! I take it this could mean my injectors are the issue? Packet Number0 32 Packet Size 32 RPM Decimal 5625 Load Decimal 74 Throttle Position 65.2 PSI Boost 13.4 Injector 1 Delivered 18.056 Injector 1 Acc Enrichment TICs 0 Injector 1 Duty Cycle 85.2

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...ts-t228586.html States around 335rwhp with stock injectors and fpr.

Yes thats exactly what I am thinking!! Hence looking for opinions. I want to find out if its just negligent tuning/installing. To prove this I will have to go to another tuner.

Thanks for the responses. I will post the Dyno sheet once I get access to a scanner. The tuner tells me the stock injectors can handle 400hp before replacement is needed. The duty cycle on them was apparently fine? I purchased the pro s kit, hence I got the HKS dump/front. My existing dump pipe was modified to reach the cat from the HKS front/dump. Cat back the exhaust is 3" Kakimoto. He said he checked the exhaust for restriction and it all tested fine? The engine began to ping at 330rwhp @ 1.2 bar. Hence the reason the tuner toned it down to be safe. I immediately think exhaust restriction somewhere but he tells me its fine. The exhaust is a little chopped up now from refabrications I wouldn't think that would cause an issue unless there was a leak? I do know another tuner who is apparently good with wolf ecu's, hence I am keen to see him for a 2nd opinion.

I recently upgraded my turbo from a HKS GT2530 to HKS 2835 pro s with some disappointing results. My mods include HKS FMIC HKS Pod + custom instake Wolf v500 ECU Turbo back 3" exhaust Hi flo cat Aftermarket intank fuel pump Injectors and manifold are stock. The 2530 was making 307rwhp. After removing 2530 and installing the 2835 and retune car is making 305rwhp @ 16psi! The tuner states the problem is the engine and he suggests rebuild. He says thay had the car at a max 330rwhp at its absolute limit with the 2835. He tapered the hp back as it was an unsafe tune. The car has 101,000 (probably not realistic!) on the clock and has never missed a beat in the 12,000 kms I have driven it. I am unsure of what to do. I am considering taking it to another tuner for a second opinion, before I start pulling engines apart and spening big $$! Could anyone shed some light/advice on this? PS. car had BP98 in it during tune and exhaust was tested to be fine (no restrictions or temp issues).

Try here http://www.meggala.com/rb25detenglish.html

Have had a search around both the forums and the web. Would you believe the dpi website returns "did not match any documents" when radar detectors are searched for! Anyway, I am considering getting one and want to know what the legalities are these days? Are these things illegal in WA? Research gives either historical, no or conflicting answers? Also, what brands/makes are best? Do they need to be upgraded every so often to keep up to date with the latest radar technology? Cheers.

Probably best answered in the FI forums. Anyway, I'll answer as I am actually in the process of having one of these (2835 pro s) fitted (tomorrow!). It depends on how much power you are chasing and what your goals are in the end? If you just want a quick responsive street car, going any higher than this will produce higher hp, however the cost may be lag. But, if you are producing something for track/drag racing at high speeds then I can understand your need for a larger possibly high mounted turbo. I.e. the reasons I chose this turbo was because I intend to own a quick street car that wont require me to rebuild the engine, will be responsive and wont attract unwanted police attention. I am aiming for 250-280rwkw from this turbo. Depends what you want to do??? Cheers

Sorry to hear about your misfortunes... This is such a common story, these guys/scum obviously target these places knowing there will be something of worth to take. If I go, Im either driving a bunky or catching the train/bus. Ridiculous!

Looks like this is shaping up to be a GTRS vs 2835 Pro S thread. I am installing a 2835 Pro S in around 2 weeks. I went through the whole turbo analysis phase and came down to a choice between these two. My requirements where 250-280rwkw on stock internals (I have all other supporting mods) whilst maintaining response. It was a hard choice, but I had heard more positives from people who had a 2835, hence I went for that! Surely the .68 vs .64 A/R would make a minimal difference in response? I have heard 2835 users state boost comes on as early as 2.5k rpm?

I ordered one of these after researching for around 2 months for the best turbo upgrade for my 25. Wanting best response, higher hp than my 2530, without breaking the bank and maintaining low mount position. 2835 pro s was the answer! Currently making 229rwkw with the 2530, looking for 250-270rwkw with the 2835. Will post once I have it installed and tuned. Just gotta wait for the thing to arrive

Awesome news. Im so glad someone has had a win amongst all of the losses.

I wouldn't touch St James autotrader with a barge pole. I can vouch for Autoworx, their cars are good and they show interest in them. R33's are generally reliable cars all round. Coil packs, power steering, factory clutches can be a bit weak, but hey that's not bad for a 12 yr old car. If it’s your 1st car then I wouldn't worry about doing many mods, you may want to learn how to control the thing first. High powered RWD cars + inexperience can = disaster! If something catastrophic does happen, then yes you may be up for pricey repairs. At the end of the day (no matter how many are floating around) it is an import you are buying, parts can be expensive and they may not be available immediately. However, that said things are much better than when I had my first skyline! Have you factored in insurance? Petrol costs? If you have, my advice would be to get one with a warranty and forget about mods for a while.

No my intenion is not to assist traction, but to make drivability more predictable at traction loss. When i loose traction at certain RPM/speed the slightest movement of the wheel can send the car outta control. The rear steering feels much too sensitive, thats what i am trying to solve. Anyway how was your lockbar? What differences did you notice? I have a 33 S2 GTST with Bilstein suspension and sway bars all the way around. These work great, the car is very solid and direct in handling, just the control at traction loss is terrible.

Any minimum initercooler size required? I currently have a HKS front mount, unsure of size/model. It looks around medium in size. Also, 2835 Pro S vs. GT-RS? Difference?

Will I need to change my aftermarket dump that fits a 2530 if I go to a 2835? Manifold? Any other fittings?

Well Im running a HKS GT2530 at the moment, response is great, however I am 80-100hp short of my 380-400rwhp goal. I want to maintain response, early spool and keep the turbo mounted low - dont want much! Maybe a HKS 2835proS is the go?

Ok. Aim is 380-400rwhp - GT3071R? Are they laggy?

What is the largest (hp wise) low mount turbo for a RB25DET?

I am wanting to know the results and opinions on those who have this installed. I am considering one as my 33 has very snappy tail at traction loss, I was told this will solve/help this issue? Making it much more controlable at traction loss. Yes I have searched the forums and there are plenty of threads on the installation of these but not the results!!