Sydneykid

Lets start off with ...... There is no such thing as "boost cut" , the ecu doesn't care what boost you are running. All that matters is the airflow as measured by the AFM. When the ECU sees excessive airflow it moves to Rich (fuel) and Retard (ignition) mapping to protect the engine. R34 ecu's have very aggressive and smart R&R strategy, they not only look at how much airflow, but also how fast the airflow increases with rpm and throttle opening. If you exceed the parameters the ecu throws in heaps of fuel and retards the ignition to blazes. This is what is felt as missing and sudden losses of power. As for the EManage....... I have yet to see an R34 succesfuly running the ignition tuning via an EManage. Blown coils, failed ignitors etc have been common amongst people trying to get it to work. Most seem to have been able to get the injector control part of the EManage working OK though. My understanding of the problem is, the R34 ecu to ignitor control is very specific and the ignitiors don't like the EManage trigger signal. This causes them to overheat and eventualy fail. The Nissan system is not the same as the other car manufacturers which the EManage handles OK. You really need to get to a workshop with an oscilloscop that can map the standard coil trigger signals and compare them with the EManage. That will confirm whether or not that issue can be adjusted out. This issue has been discussed on this forum many times, that's probably why so few people have EManage experience. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but better to face up to it now rather than live in false hope. cheers PS; this situation changes every day, I am sure Trust are aware of it. I stopped looking at EManage as a solution for autos some time ago, so it may have already changed. But I have seen no evidence of it to date.

A little bit of clarification; We have played with the ATTESA in several R32GTR's and found big improvements from upgrading/servicing the clutch packs. Just like any other clutch, the plates wear out over time and R32's are now far from new. There are a number of retail outlets than can do ATTESA upgrades, I am sure places like Racepace, Croydons and Advan would be able to help. We haven't seen much of an issue with the hydraulics, although the pump itself is definitely worth checking and the hoses should be replaced. Don't forget to change the fluid and bleed the system. We have found that this makes more of a difference than electronics, nothing that we tried in that area would fix a worn out clutch pack. It doesn't matter if you have the fastest ATTESA ECU, if the mechanicals are worn out, it won't help. My suggestion, attend to the mechanicals first, then, if it still isn't up to your requirements, look to the electronics. cheers

Measure the height, centre of wheel to guard. Standard is around 385 mm front and 375 mm rear, that is around 5mm lower than brand new. The lowest you want to go and keep some suspension travel and sensible geometry is ~350 mm front and ~340 mm rear. cheers PS; That is what mine is in the pictures

When I bought my Stagea, the price included delivery to Sydney. It was complied in Queensland (no Stagea compliers in NSW) then it was delivered via truck to Sydney. It comes with the necessary paperwork from the complier, all you do is take the car and the ALL of the paperwork to whoever in SA does first time regos. It will pay off to make a few phone calls first, talk to the complier about SA rego, they will know the score. Then talk to whoever in SA does first time regos, they will tell you what they need. Be prepared to get stuffed around by beaurocrats, they will waste your time if you don't have everything they want. Pop over to the Stagea forum for more specific Stagea discussion. cheers

Nope, injector duty is what the ECU is telling the injector, not what the injector is actually doing. Unfortunately it is an injector out, clean and flow test job. cheers

This is a picture of a Whiteline rear spring installed in an R34GTT. Bit hard to tell from the angle but the top 2 coils are closer together than the other 5 coils. This ensure that the spring is trapped at full droop (as in the picture). Once the weight of the car is applied those 2 top coils collapse, sit on top of each other and the suspension movement (eg; compression over bumps) is then taken up by the remaining coils. I will be very interested in how you find the handling and ride with your design of rear coil spring. Cheers

What were the plugs gapped to?

Exactly, Nissan designed the Stagea to operate within certain heights, you can lower it a fair bit. But once you get to slamming height; 1. There is no travel left to absorb bumps, it hops from bump to bump. This means no steering, no braking and no traction to accelerate. 2. It hits the bump stops regularly, this means a harsh, uncomfortable ride. Add that to the most likely excessively high Japanese spring rates and you have a Stagea that no one will want to ride in. 3. Because of the Nissan design paramteters, the suspension geometry goes all to pieces, it will have too much negative camber and wear out the tyres fast. You will have silly stuff like 245 mm wide tyres with only 185 mm touching the ground. This means no steering, no braking and no traction to accelerate. 4. The drive shafts will be at excessive angles this means they soak up lots of extra power, this means slower acceleration. That's why we say LOW IS SLOW cheers:) PS; I came back because I couldn't stand the thought of a slammed Stagea with 250 4wkw killing people because it wouldn't go around corners, won't stop and starts flying through the air at the smallest bump. We have lost too many Skyline owners to that mentality.

PM sent cheers

The camber kits (both front and rear) are adjustable, within their range of adjustabliity you can dial up whatever you want. Because of Nissan's design of the front upper control arm, the front bushes are much larger in diameter, so there is room to get more adjustment. The rear bushes are much smaller in diameter so there is much less room for adjustment, that's why you need to use 2 kits. One to replace the standard (rubber, non adjustable) inner bush on the upper control arm and one for the outer bush on the upper control arm. The settings I recommend are achievable using the adjusters in the Group Buy, in your case KCA348 X 1 for the front and KCA347 X 2 for the rear. Hope that helps cheers

Yep, that's them cheers

I don't think I am coming back to this thread ever.

I reckon the kit would be OK for your purposes (99% road and 1% drift). I can specify suitable stabiliser bar rates, you just need to adjust them while you are changing tyres ready for the drifting. cheers

I have posted this up a number times, but another one won't hurt; 1. Lessen the amount of oil that goes up via flow restriction, block one and restrict the other. Then drill out the oil return galleries in the head and the block, some 1 mm and some 2 mm. Machine around the oil return valleys t the galleries as the casting can be improved on easily. 2. The external oil return to the sump goes at the rear of the cylinder head, between it and the firewall. You will find a convenient flat spot in the middle of the camshaft valleys with galleries to both. On the RB26 cylinder heads there is already a threaded hole there so it makes bolting the fitting up very easy. I haven't checked RB20 or RB25 cylinder heads to see if there is the same convenient bolt hole on them. 3. I have had an N1 oil pump and a standard R33GTR pump on the oil pump flow tester and there is no difference in the flow rate at 3,000 rpm. They might look different but the flow rate is the same. The pressure relief valve opened a few psi higher on the N1 pump, indicating a stronger spring. The only RB oil pump I have tested that actualy flows more than standard was Jun pump and at $1600, a dry sump system had more appeal. The 4 stage dry sump systems we fitted to RB26's would work. They have 2 sump scavenge and one cam cover scavenge plus one pressure stage. Honestly for the cost, you would be much better off building a 7,000 rpm RB30 that would make more power and need nowhere near as many costly high rpm supporting parts. Hope that helps cheers

I think I am finally getting it; 1. You had a chiped ECU that had a nice flat 10 to 1 A/F ratio, so you just took 12% fuel out of it everywhere to get to 12 to 1. 2. If you had a standard ECU in a boost increased (say to 10 psi) Skyline it wouldn't work, because the A/F ratios are all over the place. Because you can only apply one correction factor for all load points. 3. I assume the chipped ignition timing map was similarly close, so you just added 2 degrees advance everywhere. 4. If you had a standard ECU in a boost increased (say to 10 psi) Skyline it wouldn't work, because the igniton timing is all over the place. Because you can only apply one correction factor for all load points. 5. You have chipped mapping unless a PDA (or laptop) is plugged in. If (like me) you had a standard (unchipped) ECU you would have standard mapping unless a PDA (or laptop) is plugged in. The ECUXtend unit doesn't actually retain anything, it is simply an interface. So I would have to have a PDA (or lapt top) just for using in my car, plus the ECUXtend unit. I already have a lap top, so how much does the ECUXtend cost? One more question, how come you didn't just get the chipped ECU retuned? cheers

Suggestions follow; 1. I haven't seen one of the new style, but I assume it can be modified to suite. All it really needs is a long piece of shielded cable so you can clamp the mike in the engine bay and have the amp and headphones in the cabin. If someone has the complete Autospeed article, maybe they can post it up. 2. The one I saw had no mike mods that I could see, you just clamped it in a convenient place, the standard knock sensor retaining bolts work for me. 3. Sorry, not me, I don't have a portable recorder these days 4. I have used the TechEdge yet, so I can't really say. I chose the Tech Edge this time (over another LM1) mostly for the 1MB logging capacity on board and the number of logging inputs. They are extra cost items on the LM1, plus I like making electronics kits. cheers

Takes about 1 minute to change them all to 0. Then low boost, if any boost at all. cheers

I thought that might be the case, I have never seen separately adjustable bump and rebound on Skyline Ohlins. There is an inner lower front control arm polyurethane bush available for R32's from Whiteline. For the rest, Noltec (www.noltecsuspension.com) will make up pretty much any bush in polyurethane, all you do is send them the arm. Adjustable stabiliser bars and rear subframe bushes should be on your list, to go with the springs. Let me know what you want to do about the Bilsteins. Cheers

The Bislteins are shipped with the circlips in the 355 mm position. Cheers

Yep, the Group Buy is still open cheers

The Magic cat Group Buy is still open I think, check out the Group Buy section. I sent Magic a sample cat so that they could make bolt ons. Spend $260 and a few days later the cat arrives, jack up the Stagea, undo 4 bolts (and the cat overheat sensor if it is still there) and swap them over. The longest part of the job is the jacking up and placing of the stands. Except I have to swap the exhaust (cat back) at the same time, that will slow me down some. cheers :

Yes, zakkery the same as R33GTST cheers

No they didn't cheers

Some tips; N1 oil pumps don’t flow any more oil than standard R33GTR oil pumps, they simply have a higher pressure relief valve spring. All of the oil supply problems that an RB26 has are the same in an RB20/25 when you rev them to the same rpm. So simply enlarging the oil returns to the sump won’t be enough. You will need to limit the oil flow to the head, RB26’s only have one oil supply the other is blocked. A restrictor is used in the one that is open, around 1.5 mm is sufficient if around 8,000 rpm is regularly visited. For long runs on the circuit (10 minutes plus) an external oil return is a good idea, direct from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump. Never in with the turbo oil return. Most of the valve train wear we see is due to poor oil change regime, not insufficient flow. If you turn a standard RB26 off quickly after a 7,000 rpm blast, you will find the cam covers just about full with oil. cheers