Sydneykid

PM sent cheers

I regularly put 61/62 litres in mine. It gave a cough once on the freeway entarance ramp with highish G forces, it took 63 litres that time. cheers

Now they are REAL Swedish Ohlins, with bump adjustment on the cannister and rebound adjustment on the shock top. They look like an R32GTR set. Big spring rates, the fronts are 850 lbs per inch if I remember rightly. Send me the coil dimensions and I can check them for you if you want. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 cheers

Does it have a narrow oil pump flange drive crank or a wide one? cheers

What's the fuel pressure? What's the injector duty cycle? Tried it on any other dyno's? Maybe this one is a little happy. cheers

The crank is less brittle than the oil pump rotor, plus the crank is much thicker at the drive flange than the rotor. When you have the narrow crank flange driving the wide oil pump flange it applies uneven loads. This may be what contributes to the cracking. It may be the early cranks have slighty rounded drive flanges from the K' travelled, and that is the route cause. The difficulty is there are plenty of very happy RB20/25/30 engines out there with narrow drive oil pumps. It may well be that the extra oil pressure (say from an N1 pump or higher relief spring pressure) and hard launches (where the rpm and G forces climb rapidly) is what causes the oil pump rotors to crack. Or it may have nothing to do with either of those and simply be a vibration/crank whip problem. Or a loose harmonic balancer, too tight belts or oil surge. Most likley it is a combination of all/some of the above. Personally I am going with wide crank flange with wide oil pump, or narrow with narrow, never narrow with wide. Plus I am not going to get carried away with increasing oil pressure and all of our engines are very carefully balanced to avoid vibration. They also all have winged sumps with baffles and one way doors to avoid the oil surge problem. We regularly check the harmonic balancer tighhtness (it has been a problem in the past) and don't overtighten the belts. cheers

Harness belts are not designed to be used at greater than 90 degrees to the wearer. To much angle and the protection level goes down considerably. For example, they won't hold you in the seat during a roll over, you will just slide up the belt until your head hits the roof. That's why the seat belt installation regulations for CAMS and ANDRA specify angles. I strongly suggest that you read and follow them NOS in cabin, I don't think that's a good idea. I posted this a couple of years ago from the Boston Medical Journal........... "the hypoxia resulting from high enough concentrations of nitrous oxide may result in irreversible brain damage." "use of it can damage the bone marrow and nervous system" "nitrous oxide rapidly leads to complete loss of motor control, and anyone who breathes it while standing will soon reel about and fall down" "nausea, neuropathy and myeloneuropathy" "hyperesthesia, hyperalgesia and hyperhomocysteinemia" "serious mood and personality changes" "nitrous does kill brain cells" "severe bilateral sensory dystaxia" And the best one of all "This 36-year old electrical engineer came to the emergency room complaining that he was unable to walk. Symptoms had begun 4 days earlier with "pins and neeedles" in both feet that gradually worsened and ascended to involve the knees and the fingertips. With worsening of the paresthesias (-no sense of touch or pain-) he noted difficulty in maintaining proper control of the movements of his arms and hands and trouble in walking. He also reported the sensation of electric shocks through his back and legs upon flexion of the neck. He denied bladder or bowel impairment but he had been unable to have an erection for the past week." You make up your own mind on whether it's bad idea to have NOS and hose connections in the cabin with you. cheers

270 cc's in a 6 cylinder = 270 bhp 270 bhp = 150 rwkw That's at standard fuel pressure ie 36-38 psi It doesn't matter what ECU you use, the max flow of the injector is still the max flow of the injector. You can increase the fuel pressure, but you have to be carefull as the standard fuel hoses and clamps are not designed for higher than standrd fuel pressure. That's when they are new, R32 hoses and clamps are far from new now. Around 45 psi gives a 10% increase in flow, so ~165 rwkw is the most I have seen out of standard R32GTST injectors. Do a search and you will find plenty of info on using GTR (444cc) injectors in RB20's. It is probably THE most common injector upgrade. cheers

Everything I have brought in from the US since the FTA was introduced has been duty free, only 10% GST has been added, sometimes. cheers

The pad temperature is quite a bit higher than the piston temperature. He may have simply overheated a low temperature pad compound, in which case the seals will be fine. On the other hand if he overheated a set of high temperature pads then the seals will quite likely be stuffed. cheers

To check the piston condition properly they will have to remove and replace all 12 pistons. While they are doing that they might as wll replace the seals. Chances are they will get damaged when they are checking the pistons anyway. More than half the cost of seals is the labour to R&R them. Personally, I only buy brake parts when the cost of them plus a full service is less than buying new ones. That way if they don't need a full service, I end up in front. Conversely if they do need a full service I am not out of pocket. cheers

Sorry, I still don't get it.......let me try one question at a time. What happens if you don't plug the PDA back in? cheers

A genuine seal kit is $600 Genuine pads are $500 Genuine pistons, if they require replacement, are $40 each. So if all 4 callpers are totally stuffed you are looking at ~$1500 to bring them to new standard. cheers

What are the centre of wheel to guard measurements? Should be around 385 mm minimum on the front, if lower than that chances are they not standard Stagea springs. cheers

I am a bit confused, sorry I need some help; 1.Is that front or rear camber? 2. What does "-1.5 degree out" mean? The recommended rear setting is 0.25 to 0.5 degrees negative, so is yours 2.0 degrees negative? The recommended front setting is 0.5 to 1.0 degree negative, so is yours 2.5 degrees negative? 3. If front, you must have something bent, 2.5 degrees is unreachable with the camber adjusters set on max positive adjustment (regardless of how low it is). Best to find out what is bent rather than patch it up with spherical jointed arms. 3. If rear, you need 2 camber kits. One for the inner upper on the control arm and one for the outer upper. The outer bush is in the upright (hub), so has to be removed unless the workshop has a special tool for removing the bush while the upright is still in the car. This thread explains why I don't recommend using spherical joints in road cars. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...64&hl=spherical cheers

Yep, but I don't have a ring gear locking tool, and taking the starter motor out of a Stagea is not my idea of fun. Much easier to use a rattle gun. Exhaust cam shaft pulley came off easy, undo the 4 bolts and tap with plastic hammer. I used a screw driver to hold the pulley while undoing the bolts. Don't worry about the cam rotating, the pulley has a peg, so it only goes on one way. There are marks on the rear cover that you line up (take a look at the posted pictures) to get the camshaft timing right. cheers

Is that 105 kg of rotating weight? You really need to compare the cost per KG in reference to say, wheels. Would you spend $2,500 to save 2.5kgs per wheel? Doesn't seem unreasonable to me when compared to the price of a set of Volks. cheers

I agree, the only reason we tested an RB30 block was to satisfy ourselves that all this crap floating around about RB26 extra thickness, stronger material, more of this, less of that ....was exactly that, a load of CRAP. cheers PS; our race team machinist was finishing off an RB30 bottom end using one of your 4WD sump adaptors when I was in the machine shop this morning. I have no doubt it will do the job for this application, a 600 bhp circuit race engine bound for the UK.

I did DFA, SITC and IEBC before the exhaust on the Stagea, does that count? 33% power increase with zero mechanical mods. cheers

I wonder how I would go about fitting one to an R32GTST? Something I have never done, tried fitting a GTR tailshaft to a 2wd gearbox. Damn, I feel a measuring session coming on. cheers

I imported a 1997 S1 18 months ago, it cost $16K all up with rego, 3rd party insurance etc. It had slightly less K's and was absolutely stock standard with service books and owners manuals. Around $19K to $20K would be my guess for a S2, depending on options. It will need the usual Nissan 100K service very soon and that's a ~$1K job, so make sure you get that done before you buy it. cheers

The front is 60% of the total weight, so the improvement is very noticeable. More control, better turn in, less dive under brakes, all the usual things you get from using decent shocks. You can always upgrade the rear later on. cheers

No problems, the Bilsteins come in pairs, plenty of guys have used them with standard springs. The extra circlip grooves mean you can set the height a little lower even with standard springs. Not too low though as the standard spring rates are not designed for short travel, It is actually the other way around, the shocks wearing out means there is no compression damping and they get excessive bump stop contact. This constant pounding on the bump stops wears them out and causes the dust covers to get trapped and torn by the up and down motion of the shock shaft. cheers PSl; the Bilsteins aren't rate adjustable, they have a large enough damping window to handle it.

You should check out the Group Buy on Whiteline/Bilstein, plenty of guys have bought kits (and individual parts) and been extremely happy with the results and sharp prices. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

Personally I reckon Bilsteins are the go, standard shocks are not that good even when new. cheers