Sydneykid

The hose with the yellow stripe on it )in my picture) goes to the wastegate actuator. If this is not connected then there is no boost control. Which sounds unlikely, so I suggest you check which vacuum hose is actually connected to the wastegate actuator. cheers

RB20/25 cylinder head bolt torque is 10 kg/mm cheers

No need to pull the engine. Do a leak down test, that will tell you what sort of condition the pistons, rings, bores, valves, head gasket etc is in. Then take an oil sample and send it for analysis, that will tell you what sort of condition the bottom end is in, bearings, crank, rods etc. If everything tests OK, then run it up on the dyno and check the A/F ratios, knock, power etc If everything is OK, then get on with driving it. cheers

What the? In a V8 Supercar we run excess fuel on overrun to help cool the cylinder heads down. This unburnt fuel hits the hot exhaust and ignites, hence the flame out the pipe. cheers

A picture of what? cheers

Nope the movement ratio is pretty much 1 to 1, ie 8mm higher circlip = 8mm higher height. cheers

The Whitleine front camber kit (KCA348) only replaces the outer bushes on the front upper control arm, not the inner. The yellow bushes in the following picture; Be carefull that you are not looking at the rear camber kit (KCA347), one of the bushes is the same size as the front inner upper bush, the other isn't. cheers

The standard suspension industry height is measured centre of wheel to guard. This removes all the variations in bumper bars, exhaust systems, wheel diameter etc etc. Standard, new, R33 GTST is ~380 mm centre of wheel to guard front and ~370 mm rear. cheers

Hi Lee, big mistake. From what you are describing there is now no restriction in the bypass line (the one that goes to the turbo inlet) so a whole pile of boost is being bypassed and therefore not going to the wastegate actuator. Standard, the restrictor is in the line out from the intercooler return pipe, there is a red stripe on the vacuum hose to mark where the restrictor is. Nissan use the restrictor to dampen the boost hit. This is a picture of the vacuum hose with the red stripe on it. To get around 8 psi, the restrictor needs to be in the vacuum hose that goes to the turbo inlet. That's the vacuum hose fitted to the LHS of the T piece in the following picture; The vacuum hose on the RHS of the T piece goes to the wastgate actuator, that vacuum hose (in the picture) has a yellow stripe on it. Cheers

On mine, the vacuum hose is connected to the rear of the plenum, there is an unused fittingthere that is the right size. The vacuum hose then goes out of the engine bay to the RHS guard, accross the rubber door seal and up the A pillar where the boost guage is located in a POD. cheers

If it is a standard R34GTT side mount, the outlet pipe is on the wrong side of the end tank, it needs to be moved from the back to the front. This is a picture of an R34GTT SMIC compared to a R33GTST SMIC, they are a straight swap. But as you can see from this photo, the standard R32GTST SMIC has the outlet pipe at the front; It is a pretty simple job for an aluminium welder. cheers

Hi Jim, you can tune the light load runing using the standard slow and narrow lambda sensor. Trim the fuel to get ~0.8 volts for all load points from just above idle (say 1,100 rpm) to earliest boost build ( say 2,200 rpm). It is a slow process, but the datalogit logging will help. cheers

It is certainly at least a 50% plumb back design. It could be a 100% plumb back design, but I can't see RHS cam cover to tell what is going on on that side. The filter on the catch can is of course redundant in a 50% plumb back application. cheers

The usual strut brace design links (RHS to LHS) the top suspension mounting points and effectively doubles the rigidity of them. By reducing the flex, this stops changes in the suspension geometry, mostly camber. The springs and stabiliser bars work exactly as they did before, so there is no reduction in roll. The improved in handling comes from helping to maintain the static wheel elignment settings when the suspension is moving and the chassis flexing. On R32/33/34 Skylines (2 door & 4 door) and equivalent Stageas, the front strut brace actually serves to effectively link the upper control arm inner mounting points to each other (RHS to LHS). This is because the upper corntol arms are actually mounted to the inner guard (chassis). You can see this by simply looking through the front wheel arches. So a front strut brace does serve quite a usefull purpose in helping to control the suspension geometry. On the rear (of these models) this is simply not the case, the upper control arm inner mounting mounts are mounted to the sub frame, not the chassis. Adding a rear strut brace to the chassis between the rear shock towers, doesn't help the rigidity of the sub frame. You can also confirm this for yourself by loooking through the rear wheel arch and examining the upper control arm mounting points. Then compare this to where the strut brace actually mounts. Therefore the effect of fitting a strut brace to the rear is much, much less than the front. cheers

Sorry, I am not sure what the question is exactly that you are asking. The wastegate actuator spring on the Stagea is designed for ~0.25 bar (4psi). So if you feed boost direct to that it will open at 0.25 bar (4 psi) and that is the max boost you will get. The standard boost control solenoid bleeds off 0.15 bar (2 psi) back into the inlet. That's how 0.4 bar (6 psi) is achieved. This is what I wrote in a post on the Jaycar IEBC and DFA thread ...... This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses. Disconnect the two vaccum hoses from the solenoid. Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to a the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture). The remaing connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting). Make sure to put the the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar. I hope that answers your question cheers

No grease is not a good idea, they will squeak. My suggestion would be to remove them and grease them up. Then you can easily adjust them. cheers

If you are doing the aadjustable caster bushes versus adjustable arm think, have a read of this thread, it should answer your questions; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=91064 cheers

Yep, I think there is 1 or 2 sets left at Bilstein. PM me for details. cheers

Yep, Whiteline have them in stock usually. I was pleasantly surprised at how much difference the extra caster made on our Stagea. Takes that dull feeling out at straight ahead and adds a bit of weight to the steering. Not a lot, but enough to feel like you are in control. Just PM me to start the ball rolling. cheers

A philosophical discussion is always stimulating, my 20 cents worth……………… Knowing just when to stop modifying is very difficult. It is ever so easy to go too far and then realise the car is not what you really want. It’s too lumpy, laggy, hard riding, has poor throttle response, is unreliable and it’s a gas guzzler. Plus I bet it will be unfinished, always a work in progress. Until the very day it is finished then it will be up for sale, like so many modified Skylines. It roles of the tongue so easy, 275 awkw……….that’s a FAST waggon. It is much faster than the fastest production HSV or FPV, it’s above M5 or RS4 territory, it is a real weapon. Do you really want/need something that fast and where are you going to use it. If you think about it, it will break every speed limit in Australia in under 6 seconds, that’s 1 .. 2 .. 3 .. 4 .. 5 .. 6 go to jail. I have almost all of the parts lying around that would be necessary to get my Stagea to 260 awkw, but I realise that 210 4wkw is more than enough for my purposes. A highly response, auto, 4wd with 210 4wkw is going to take some beating. It will have to be a pretty special road car to beat it to the speed limit on our crappy streets. As a comparison, you could get a 260RS to 250 4wkw with very little in the way of mods. Turbo back exhaust and a Power FC, maybe throw some steel turbines in there, that’s about it. The suspension would be the same upgrade as you have now. Slotted rotors, braided lines, some decent pads and the brakes are up to scratch. The 260RS already has the fuel pump, injectors, FMIC, gearbox, LSD, body kit, wheels, interior trim etc etc. Best of all, when you go to sell it it’s still an Autech 260RS, not just another modified Stagea. Personally I would have long think about what it is that I am actually trying to achieve. If I wanted a manual Stagea, then I would buy one. If I wanted an R33GTR waggon then I would buy one. Making one (instead) is going to cost twice as much in time, pain, effort, heartache and a lot more money. cheers

This is a very common topic, do a search on RB23 and RB24. Here is one of my posts on this subject.... Hi guys, I will try and answer the questions, but before I do I should point out that you can swap most of your good bits onto/into an RB25DET and end up with a better result than building an RB23/RB24. And it will cost a damn site less as well. On to the questions; The standard RB20 bore is 78 mm, the most common RB23 (2,280 cc's) piston upgrade is 4AGZE which are 81 mm (from memory). This means you will need to relieve the combustion chambers radius at the bore by 1.5. Then taper it into the normal combustion chamber shape. Pretty simple really, any machine shop could do it. You will need to relieve the combustion chamber volume to achieve your target compression ratio. From memory about 3 cc (slightly more than a good polish) gives 8.8 to 1 for an RB23. The combustion chamber volumes will have to be equalised of course. Porting is pretty much essential if you want to use the higher rpm effectively without huge amounts of boost. There is a lot of work on both the inlet and exhaust ports needed. If you do a really good job, you should end up around 85% of what a standard RB25 cylinder head flows. Depending on the experience of the machinist and the workshop hourly rate you are looking at around $1K to do the above. There are larger valves available for RB20's , I have seen 2mm larger inlet valves and 1.5 mm larger exhaut valves. I have a recollection that they were for a VG30 or CA18 but they fit the RB20. Since VG30's are popular in the US there are quite a few valve, valve spring alteratives. A quick check of the sizes should confirm the suitability. From memory the VG30 valves where around $US20 each, so that's $640 for the set plus freight. RB26 cranks vary considerably in price, I have seen R32GTR cranks around $400, rods around $200. Up to double that for R33GTR cranks and rods. The best suggestion I can make is to shop around the For Sale forum and check out the historic prices. As for cams, 256 to 264's would be fine for using with the hydraulic followers (260 Poncams for example) . But to really use 272's or higher you would need to do a solid follower conversion. No, RB26 bits won't fit, well not without some serious engineering and machining. But CA18/VG30 may well fit, worth checking anyway. By the time you have the necessary RB23/RB24 parts purchased, get it all machined and assembled you are looking at a bit over $5K. Then you have to add the accessories, manifolds, turbos etc. Hope that was of some help cheers

My 20 cents........ 1. The Q45 AFM is a bit big for your application, its metering at very low airflows may be an issue. Check the AFM voltages. 2. Does the surging stop when you turn closed loop off? If so, tuning the maps at low airflows will help a lot. Also the PFC default O2 aim is set at 1.047 lambda (15.2 to 1), try droppin that down to 1.0 (14.7) and see if it helps. It has been my experience that you will not fix this problem by changing ECU's, only the standard ECU is better than a Power FC at light load running. It's a tuning problem, not an ECU problem. Hope that helps, please let us know how you get on cheers

That would worry me. When the engines gets excessive blowby it will pressurise the oil return from the turbo. This could mean low (or even zero) oil flow to the rear turbo. Even a short, instaneous excess of blow by (eg; missed gear change) could be enough to seize the shaft due to the lack of oil. That's why we always have separate oil return to the sump. cheers

My 20 cents ........ That small a change in track is not worth worrying about on the road. You won't even feel it. cheers