Sydneykid

Based on some tests we did a few years ago for a car manufacture, 60% of the heat transfer into the cabin of a vehicle comes via the windscreen. Add side and rear windows into that and the colour of the cabin roof becomes not so important. What colour the side, rear and bonnet are has very little, if any, bearing on the heat transfer into the cabin. cheers

My suggestion would be to adjust the cam timing on the dyno, every engine is different. The higher performance spec, the greater the potential for difference. cheers

More caster on the front will help a lot. There are adjustable caster bushes on the Group Buy. cheers

Yep, any decent 4 wheel aligner should be capable. The recommended alignment settings are in the first post of this thread. cheers

Have you clear lacquered the polished aluminium? If not, it won't stay shiny for long. cheers

Titanium 's great affinity for the atmospheric gases oxygen, nitrogen and hydrogen rules out all welding processes in which the molten metal can come into contact with any of these elements and result in embrittlement. For argon arc welding (TIG/MIG processes) air must be excluded from the weld, the heat-affected zone and the adjacent areas of the base metal when titanium is welded. In addition, the root side must also be protected from air contact. This protection must be maintained until the weld has cooled down to below approximately 300°C. Depending on the geometry and size of the parts this is achieved by use of inert gas shielding, trailing shields, porous backup bars or by welding in evacuated inert gas-filled chambers. As filler metal, tested bare wire of the same titanium group should be used. In practice it is not always possible to prevent slight hardening of the weld due to pickup of small amounts of atmospheric gas components, and so it may be advisable to use bare wire from a lower titanium group than that of the base metal. cheers

Simple answer = 2 X 2530 cheers

Nope, R34GTT has forks at the bottom of the rear shocks, R33GTST has eyes. cheers

How many KMs?

Upgrading the internals are we? If not 480 cc's is plenty. If you ARE upgrading the internals, spend the time and change over to top feed injectors using a suitable (there are plenty of choices) fuel rail. cheers

Get a leak down test done and drop the oil and get it tested. Do a search on them if you want more details cheers

Valve stem seals? Do a leak down test, in 20 minutes that will confirm which it is. cheers

Knock with throttle closed is irrelevant, no engine damage possible. Move on. cheers

Geezus man, do a search, this subject is done to death...........hundreds of times. If you are keeping to standard internals then the standard inlet is the best, for everything, max power, average power and throttle response. Want to know why........then try the search button. Want to know how it has been tested? On the car? On the flow bench? Then do a search. This is one of THE best supported forums in the world, whatever subject you can think of there is a 99.9999% chance that someone thought of it long before you did. There are enough race car engineers, machine shop owners, mechanics, fluid dynamics engineers, etc etc that post on here to have the questions answered years ago. cheers

The tyres are transmitting the acceleration and twisting torque, shocks and bushes are both relied on to hold the torque. cheers

Lots of pictures of side skirts (steps) are from the side, but very few pictures show the 3/4 (front or rear) view that is important. Masa have a quite a few more pictures; http://216.239.37.104/translate_c?hl=en&ie.../language_tools Cheers

My first guess would be an intercooler hose has blown off, check them all. cheers

The restrcitor goes in the vacuum hose off the T piece to the turbo inlet, it limits the amount of bleed off from the wastegate actuator. cheers

Jack it up (all 4 wheels of course) and try it. cheers

We make our own sumps for the race team cars, but you can buy one of these retail from High Energy; HE8124 Pro-Circuit 3.0 VL/Nissan, 4 Gates, 7L, P/Up $962.50 cheers

It's got a muffler in the middle AND one at the rear and it's still too loud. Damn they must not be much of a muffler. What we do is fit a bolt in restrictor in the rear muffler, then it is a simple matter of undoing 4 screws and removing the restrictor. The restrictor is a reverse cone shape and makes the exhaust bounce outwards into the silencing material, rather than go straight through. With your access you should be able to make one up out of stainless steel pretty easily. You trim the size of the hole in the restrictor until you get the desired noise level. Start of quite and gradually trim until it is at the limit. It does knock the top off the performance, but it is quick and easy to remove. cheers

Ball bearing core = lower resistance = faster boost build and quicker throttle response. Also lower oil temp as the ball bearing cores are water cooled. Ball bearing cores require less maintenance than plain bearing cores. Plain bearing core = higher resistance = slower boost build and poorer throttle response. Also higher oil temp as the plain bearing cores are generally oil cooled. Standard the R32GTST has a ball bearing, water cooled core, so all of the necessary plumbing capabilities (water and oil) are already there. cheers

The old 2 bads = running bad compred to 1 bad + 1 good = running really bad Happens all the time, the answer is to fix the remaining bad. In your case the leaks are making the engine run rich. Less air is actualy going into the engine, so the ECU is supplying too much fuel. This is partially offset by the dirty AFM which sends lower voltage signals to the ECU. Hence the ECU injects less fuel than it would if the airflow was accurate. When you put a good (clean) AFM on, the ECU sees the correct (higher) airlfow and injects more fuel. The result is even richer running than when you had a bad (dirty) AFM. The answer.....simple ...... fix the leaks. Hope that helps cheers

My 20 cents.....which would be worth more if I had a dyno graph (boost, torque, rwkw and A/F ratios) to look at........... With A/F ratios ~10 to 1 you are using 20% more fuel than necessary. There is better fuel economy to be had from tuning the A/F ratios. The usual gain from tuning the A/F ratios from the 10 to 1 to a more power friendly 12 to 1, is 10 to 15 rwkw. That sort of power increase will occur wherever the A/F ratios improve, so not just max power but average power will increase as well. The Blitz ECU tune is obviously very consevative as far as fuel mapping is concerned, it would be very interesting to see exactly what they have done. Keepng in mind the tuners ignition timing comment, maybe that is all they touched and left the fuel mapping pretty much standard. Which explains the 10 to 1 A/F ratios which are what we see from a standard ECU on RB20's with similar mods. My suggestion would be to get the ECU retuned and take the fuel economy and power advantages. cheers PS; I wouldn't be going over 12 psi with the standard R33 Turbo, even 12 psi is close to the edge.