Sydneykid

Where are you? cheers

By looping the oil flow at the rear, you will require high pressure fittings as the solenoids ensure sufficient pressure to move ther rack is availabe at the rear. A better (easier and cheaper) solution is to do the looping at the front. Straight out of the power steering pump (rear stage) into the power steering cooler and back into the reservoir. I will mark up the schematic tonight, but I can't see the power stering cooler mentioned, maybe becaase it's just a loop of aluminium pipe they don't put it on the schematic. cheers

You won't generate enough G-forces on the road to need anything better than what you have. If you are running water cooled turbo/turbos, an oil cooler is probably not necessary either. If you are intending to use road tyres for the drags you won't need anything better than a standard sump. For radial drag tyres or slicks the most common sump upgrade we see is the Trust sump extension. This solution would mean redoing the external feed to the pickup. cheers

You have to be very carefull with increasing fuel pressure to achieve an increae in flow. My fluid dynamics is a bit rusty, but what I do remember is that the flow increase is way less than the pressure increase. For example, I have increased the fuel pressure from 36-38 psi (standard Skyline fuel pressure) to 50 psi, that's a 35% increase in pressure. But the flow only increased by around 10%. I had to stop at 50 psi because the fuel pump (Bosch) was only rated for flow at 73.5 psi. That left 73.5 - 50 = 23.5 psi for boost. In addition to the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I had to replace all of the fuel lines (from the tank to the engine) with braided lines and screw fittings, as the standard clamp on hoses were unable to handle the extra pressure. All up (including labour) it would have been almost cheaper to buy bigger injectors and then sell the GTR ones. cheers

What are your intended uses for this car? Road, Circuit, Drag, Show, Drift etc cheers

ANYTHING that uses the standard (slow and narrow) lambda sensors is a waste of time. cheers

Hi Adrian, seen any results on the Hoosiers yet? cheers

If you are not going to change the rear callipers, then you will have an imbalance. If you are going to run the ABS it will avoid locking issues, but you will still have an imbalance. Hence you won't get the best braking performance, some of the money spent will be wasted. There is a lot of science (and a bit of art) in working out master cylinder sizes, including the physical leveage and movement ratios (the pivot point on the pedal etc) and hydraulic movement ratios. I know the formulas (the science bit) but I still don't get it right first time on the race cars, there is a lot of driver feel info required (that's the art bit). cheers

What are going to use to lock the rack? cheers

My guess......you put them in upside down. cheers

None of the Group A race GTR's had HICAS. cheers

My guess is standard ECU rich and retard strategy. Grab a Consult reader (Group Buy has lots of alternatives) and have a look at what happens to the ignition timing around those loads. cheers

It's not just size but the fluid flow though the cooler that's important. I started a thread a year or so ago on transmission coolers, if you need to know any more details this is the link; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=59399 cheers

I have been getting a few questions on this lately, must be the hot weather. cheers

In developing the Group Buy kits I spent some time trying different spec shocks in different chassis and also shock dyno'ing them. The rear R33GTR and rear R34GTT shocks (Bilstein and standard) where pretty much the same, but the fronts were dramaticaly different. I don't know how technical you want to get, but I'll give it a try........ An R33GTR weighs around 200 kgs (25%) more on the front wheels than an R34GTT. In general the common aftermarket spring rates are quite different, the R33GTR being somewhat higher to hold up that extra weight. Hence the rebound valving rates in the front shocks will be to high for R34GTT spring rates. You MAY have enough rebound adjustment on the shocks, it depends on the window of spring rates that their valving was designed for. The bigger problem is bump (compression) valving rates, they are markedly different. The R33GTR front shock bump rate is vey high, it needs to be, to slow down the compression of the front suspension (that extra 200 kgs at work). Take away the 200 kgs and you wil end up with an excessively harsh ride, and handling prone to wash out understeer. This is because the front tyres contact patch will be compromised by the harsher than necessary bump rates. Some shocks (most in fact) only have adjustable rebound rates, so adjusting them will do nothing for the bump rates. If they do have common adjustment (both bump and rebound together) the ratio of change in rebound rates will not match the change in bump rates required to handle the lower springs rates and the lighter weight. You could run lower front spring rates to offset the higher bump valving, but then the rebound valving would be even further out. The bottom line, it depends on the valving windows and only the shock manufacturer knows them. My guess, you could do better spending your money on correctly valved shocks. Hope that helps cheers

The R32GTST is in the workshop in pieces, I will have to assemble the HICAS bypass to the suggested method. It is currently being modded to take a larger power steering cooler. I am not in the workshop, I don't go there every day There is no digital camera in the workshop, last time I took the digital camera to the workshop it got borrowed and dissappeard for 3 weeks. The time before that I went to take some photos and SOMEONE had let the batteries go flat. You know who you are. There is no PC in the workshop and no internet connection. When I am next in the workshop with a digital camera with good batteries, I will take some photos, then I will take the camera home, photoshop them, write some words on them and post them up. In the interim .................. IT AIN'T THAT HARD. Find the power steering cooler connections (there are only 2) and follow them. The outlet goes back to the reservoir, that is not hard to find. If you follow the other connection (that's the inlet) you will find that it goes to the HICAS solenoids. Remember which hose it is, I will call it hose #1. Now follow the outlet pipework from the HICAS pump, that's the rear stage on the power steering pump. You will find it goes under the engine, and comes out near the HICAS solenoids. I will call that one hose #2. Using a short (about 150 mm) long piece of rubber (low pressure ) power steeing hose join #1 to #2. Don't forget to use hose clamps. All up it should take less than 10 minutes. cheers

Yes cheers

Yes, but it will wear out the tyres faster and have less traction. cheers

I was thinking of taking up this Group Buy, then I saw the HORNSBY Could it possibly be any further away? And still be in Sydney And I need 2 cars done, that's 2 trips to HORNSBY Will he travel? cheers

Our S1 seems to have 3 levels of window colour; 1. The front windscren is clear, although is does have some heat rejection. 2. The front doors and rear screen are slightly tinted. 3. The rear doors and rear sides are heavily tinted. I am going to cut that down to 2 levels by getting the front doors and rear screen tinted to match the rear doors and rear sides. Based on experience with other cars, even when that is done, the front doors will still appear lighter tint than the rears due to the extra light coming in throught the untinted front screen. This "apparent" difference seems to have been enough to avoid "issues" in the past. cheers

I am far from an auto box expert, I leave that to the profesionals. The following assumes some level of knowledge of how an automativc geabox works. If you don't know, then this is the best thread I have seen for a while, please read it first; http://www.ukcar.com/features/tech/gearbox/AUTO/ The auto in a Stagea is made by Jatco, and is basically the same as Z32 and R33GTST (+ a 4wd transfer case bolted on the side) and several other larger 6 cylinder Nissans, 4wd's, utes, trucks etc. So parts and knowledge are not hard to find. If you need higher rpm for launch (so you have boost) then a high stall speed torque converter is the answer. You pick the stall rpm to suite the boost build characteristics of the turbo. The standard torque converter has around a 2,000 rpm stall speed, but as you increase the torque output from the engine the stall speed climbs a bit. At around 150 rwkw mine was at 2,250 rpm. Since you have the engine producing kinetic energy and the car going nowhere this energy has to be converted (Newtons Law, see, high school physics is sometimes usefull), in this case into heat. Think 60 or 70 of those 1 kw bar heaters, that's a lot of heat. That heat goes into the transmission fluid, hence the need for a big tranmission cooler. An example, if you have turbo that produce boost at 3,500 rpm then you get a 3,500 rpm stall conveter. Bingo, boost at launch. The problem is (you get nothing for nothing) it is always a 3,500 rpm stall torque converter, so the car won't move until the engine is doing pretty much 3,500 rpm. That's bad for economy, emmisions etc The Stagea auto uses a band for 2nd gear engagement, this can be upgraded with a stronger band (sometimes kevlar) which gives higher grip (to handle the extra torque) and tolerates more slip and heat. The 3rd and 4th gears are engaged by clutches (wet clutches, like the ATTESSA), these can also be upgraded to handle the extra torque. The bands and clutches are controlled by valves switching hydraulic pressure, so a "valve body" upgrade can be used to speed up the band/clutch engagement (sometimes called a "quick shift kit"). This lessens the wear on the bands/clutches and makes the gear change quicker/sharper. As usual you get nothing for nothing, this means slightly harsher gearchanges, not as seamless, less smoooooth. Good oil temperature control is necessary for tight gearchanges, hence the need for a big transmission cooler. How much does it cost? Well the full upgrade (torque converter, bands, clutches and valve body) seems to be around $3,500 (excluding gearbox R&R). The first step is a big tranmission cooler (~$200), then a valve body upgrade (~$300), then its inside the gearbox time. How much power will it handle? Damn tuff to answer as the weight of the car and its traction (Stagea = 4wd and 1700 kgs) has some bearing. It will most certainly handle as much as the standard engine internals are capable of supporting (ie; ~300 rwkw). That's about the limit of my research so far, hope it was of some help. MV Automatics in Adelaide seem to be the Skyline auto experts. There was a valve body exchange arranged on the Group Buy section a while ago with them. cheers