Sydneykid

It will stay open as long as the current stock of Bilsteins last, a small shipment of a few part numbers arrived just before Xmas and that is the last until Japan reorders (we don't have enough volume to get a production run done just for Australia). They are selling quite quickly now that everyone is back at work, so maybe a few weeks stock left. Then I will close it, I will open a new Group Buy (with new prices) once the production schedule is confirmed, that could be 3 to 6 months. cheers

I take it that it will suit R33 GTST If so, PM me, and I'll take it.

Who did the high flow?

The R32GTST fronts will fit the R33GTST. GTR's fronts are not interchangeable with GTST's, the spring rates are way too high. The R32GTST rear shocks wil not fit R33GTST, the R32 shocks are much shorter. cheers

That is correct, the BKC solenoid connects to the standard wiring harness in place of the standard boost control solenoid. cheers

Personally, my first choice would be to get an R34GTT loom and a Power FC. My second choice would be an R33GTST loom and power FC. My third choice would be an R32GTST loom and a Power FC. Myfourth choice would be to "wire in" the Power FC, its no harder to wire in a PFC in than any other computer. It a simple the cost / performance ratio, you will spend far more money on getting the base tuning of any other ECU compared to a PFC than buying a harness will cost. cheers

Yep, still available. Delivery is 4 days at the moment. cheers

Not the best place, takes the heat out of the oil and transfers it into the water (via the radiator). It also blocks the exit airflow from the intercooler. In the side vent with ducting is the best location. cheers

Sorry only just catching up with this thread, been busy doing the race team budget for this year….frightening……. I have found that what works for GTR (4wd) does not always work for a GTST (2wd) and vive versa. So I will stick to GTST (2wd) for this post. Rear subframe bushes (pineapples), the best setting I have found for circuit work is the “all round performance”. As per the Whiteline instructions; The maximum traction (squat) position tends to give too much understeer on corner exit power application as it transfers weight off the front wheels. It is great for drags, but not dry track circuit work. If you have a guaranteed wet track then it is good for that as well, as it lessens the power on oversteer. Very high powered (400 rwkw plus) cars can benefit from this setting as they have lots of power oversteer and a bit of understeer is not a problem, just apply more right foot. The minimum traction (anti squat) position is not something I would use on a GTST for circuit work, good for drift though. Lack of antisquat is not a problem as the stabiliser bar holds the rear of the car upright on corner exit as there is still diagonal weight transfer going on. The “all round performance” setting is the easiest as you don’t have to drop the subframe down to insert bushes above it, they all go below the subframe. If you can change a flat tyre, you can do this. As the picture of the RHS front subframe bush on the Stagea shows, simply undo the 2 X bolts and 1 X nut holding the bracket, drop the bracket, slip the bush in and replace bracket, then do up the nut and bolts. The LHS front bush is the same, the 2 X rear bushes are even easier as there is only 1 X nut holding each bracket. I would always do the caster bushes first, Skylines cry out for more caster, they have around 5.0 to 5.5 degrees standard, which is simply not enough. I have seen a few with ~3 degrees as the bushes have been pounded by hitting bumps, pot holes and speed humps at speed. Around 7 or more is such an improvement. There is a compromise (you loose camber when you wind on caster) but on a GTST it is only a very tiny amount, not worth worrying about. This is not really a full DIY job, the standard bushes need around 10 tonnes to press them out, sometimes more if the steel shell of the bush has started to rust itself to the radius rod. You can get a workshop to do it all, or simply remove the radius rods (each rod has 1 X bolt at the front and 2 X bolts at the rear) and take them along to have the bushes pressed out and the new ones pressed in. Only takes a few minutes once they are out of the car. Hope that helps cheers

Hi Simon, 2 mm is usually a bit too big, around 1.25 mm to 1.5 mm seems the most common. cheers

Waste of time and money, as is any device that relies on the standard lambda sensor. The standard slow and narrow lambda sensor is exactly that, slow and narrow. Narrow-----if the leaness exceeds 16 to 1 the standard narrow lambda sensor won’t see it, because it is outside its measuring capability. This means if you get a super lean condition (eg; fuel pump failure) you won’t get any warning. Slow-----if the leanness happens suddenly (eg; fuel pump failure) the standard slow lambda sensor won’t respond quickly. This means you most likely won’t get enough warning to save the engine. Buy a steak as GTST said, it’s better value and it won’t protect the engine any less. Cheers

Yep, those target alignment settings are OK. Plus or minus a bit, as every car is different. The 330 mm front and 320 mm rear is lower than I would recommend, plus the springs will settle around 5 mm after few k's. The rear camber (in particular) will be a lot negative. The bumps stops MUST be trimmed, as per the pictures earlier in the thread. Personally I would go up at least 2 circlip grooves, preferably 3. Around 350 front and 340mm rear is the best handling/ride comfort height. You need to do that before the wheel alignment is done. cheers

Hi Danz, I spent 3 months working on the engineering of the kits for Jamex early last year. I tested heaps of springs, shock rates, stabiliser bars, wheel alignment settings etc. I also do lots of driver training days and suspension set up clinics, so I get to drive many many cars. I was paid by Jamex to do the engineering months ago, so I don't make anything from this Group Buy. The knowledge gained from this belongs to Jamex, not to me. The Group Buy philosophy was to give the best value road suspension kit around, with sporty handling but without a harsh ride. As you can see from the favourable comments of the guys on this Group Buy thread (and its brothers for other Skyline models) that the engineering has been pretty successful. Whiteline indicate that their spring rates are around 25% increase from standard. The Bilstein valving was pretty good "out of the box", so it was mostly left alone. Some models required more work than others, none of them required a total revalve. The work concentrated on achieving good handling without sacrificing ride comfort, hence mostly high frequency damping. The Bilstein (NSW) shock dyno was used for this purpose, all work (including the extra circlip grooves) is done in house at Bilstein by their technicians. The current NSW Speed Event Champion used (basically) this kit, so it is quite at home on the track. Our R34GTT fitted with this kit did an 11.9 at 120 mph (with 265 rwkw) so it is also quite at home at the drags. Hope that answered your questions cheers

The Group Buy for R32GTR suspension is still open. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521 cheers

A few sets of the airfreighted R32GTR Bilsteins are in stock, so the Group Buy continues until they run out. cheeers

Based on what I have seen, rev limiter = rich, not lean. Regardles it can't be on the rev limiter from 90 kph to 110 kph. My guess is the injectors are maxing out. Based on your PM, the fuel pressure at 50 psi plus boost is quite high, maybe the Walbro fuel pump can't handle the pressure and its flow is dropping off. That needs to be checked next time on the dyno. cheers

Hi Chris, a 40mm piston won't work as well as a 50 mm piston ALL of the time. A 50 mm piston moves 56% more oil for the same stroke, so a 40 mm piston is going to be somewhat less effective at dampening the oscillations of the spring and the suspension. The larger wheels and tyres you have (more unsprung weight) the worse it becomes. For the same shock length, the 56% less shock oil will overheat much faster. How long that is depends on what track, ambient temperature, dampening required, spring and stabiliser bar rate etc etc. Standard shocks are 42 mm ID but they are twin tube, so the piston is around 33 mm. You need to ask what size the piston is in the shocks you are looking at, the "50mm shock" description usually means a 41 mm piston. The Bilsteins in the Group Buy are also "50 mm shock" but they are monotube, which means a 46 mm piston. So the piston is 26% larger than the average twin tube "50mm shock". It's one of the reason why the Bilsteins are so effective. Cheers

They will "fit" but they are not "suitable". An R33GTR weighs 200 kgs more at the front than an R34GTT. Spring rate too high and shock rate too high. Since they are Apexi T Max there are already too high for an R33GTR, so on an R34GTT they would be ........................rediculous. cheers

Are you sure you didn't cut the water pump belt? cheers

GCG S2 high flow (discontinued) and standard computer don't work together, upgrade the ECU. Some tuning tips; 1. During the boost build rpm, tune it with as much ignition advance as it will take, use extra fuel (richness) to control the detonation. This ensures that whatever airflow the turbo is producing is ingested by the engine (throttle body size is irrelevant at partial throttle openings). 2. Retard the exhaust camshaft timing, usually around 4 degrees 3. Some mild tuning of the VVT change over point sometimes helps 4. In the surge rpm zone, check the pressure drop from the turbo to the plenum. It should be almost zero, more than 1 psi is not acceptable. Look closely at the pipework and the intercooler. 5. In the surge rpm zone, compare the inlet plenum pressure and the exhaust pressure (the lambda sensor point is a good reference). There should be almost zero difference, more than 1 psi is not acceptable. Look closely at the dump, cat and exhaust. The above (with carefull tuning) will eliminate almost all of the compressor surge, maybe even all of it. Whatever remains you will have to manage via judicious use of the throttle. Hope that helps cheers PS, this is a unique problem to the GCG S2 (500 bhp) high flow, the S1 (450 bhp) has not had one sinlge problem on the 6 or so cars we have fitted them to.

Time for an injector upgrade (to fix that dangerous leaness up high) and an SAFC to fix the mid range richness. cheers

Hi Bass, on the race cars (both Production and Improved Production) we are not allowed by the regulations to replace the upper arms. We are allowed to replace the rubber bushes, with say polyurethane. So we do basically what Roy has described, run offset bushes in the inner and outer pivot points. With 7+ degrees of positive caster and the ride height set at around 345-350 mm (centre of wheel to guard) we can achieve around 4.5 degrees negative camber. Which is more than we ever use, mostly it’s around 2.5 degrees. The higher duro (hardness) of the polyurethane means the negative camber is not lost by compression of the rubber bushes. This means we can run less static negative camber. That’s OK for R32’s, as the inner and outer bushes are the same dimensions. On R33/34’s the outer bush has readily available offset bushes, but not the inners which are different sizes. To date I have been unable to convince the polyurethane moulders that there is sufficient demand. So they have been reluctant to manufacture the unique tooling for R33/34’s. The front inner upper control arm bush is the same as the rear (inner and outer) upper control arm bush. But the rear inner upper control arm bush is larger, so this is the one that unique tooling would need to be made for. You could try Noltec (Greg or David), they make off the shelf polyurethane bushes for lots of race cars. So they have the capability of moulding low volume parts. Please let me know how you get on. cheers

It is good that they suite your usage and tastes. cheers

Most of the guys don't worry about replacing the bushes. They clean up the silicone and stick a Whiteline rear subframe kit (pinapples) around/over the standard bushes. About 20 minutes DIY work and ~$100. It is a bitch of job (ie; expensive and time consuming) to replace the bushes completely as you have to remove the whole rear subframe. That means diff, tailshaft, drive shafts, control, arms brake hoses and cables etc etc. The old bushes have to be pressed (20 tonnes) out, sometimes the shells have to cut with a saw if they are rusted in. Then the new bushes pressed in, if one is shot chances are the other 3 will be on the way out. The relevant bushes are marked with green dots on the following picture; cheers

The vacuum hoses may be in different positions, but they do EXACTLY the same things. The restrictor is simply there to dampen the boost/vacuum hits on the wastegate actuator. You have a vacuum hose marked "from solenoid to BOV pipe" that is the return to air inlet, Nissan have saved a few cents and eliminated one extra fitting on the inlet pipework. The restrictor should be in the hose from the turbo outlet to the T piece. I can't see from the pictures but it should be marked with a stripe (yellow or red) around the vacuum hose to show where the restrictor is located. Maybe check the vacuum hose from the T piece to the wastegate actuator. Nissan may have put it in there, it would have pretty much the same dampening effect. cheers