Sydneykid

I don't know of anyone here who uses the factory settings. This is what I recommend for a road R33GTST; Front Toe - zero Caster - 6 degrees on the right and 6.25 on the left, more is better but keep the split around 0.25 degrees. R32/33/34's do not have standard caster adjusters, so if you have not added them they won't be able to adjust it. Camber - between 0.5 and 1.0 degrees negative, that's both sides, don't have more on the left to stop the drift to the gutter, the caster split is better for that. R32/33/34's do not have standard camber adjusters on the front, so if you have not added them they won't be able to adjust it. Rear Toe - 2 mm toe in each side, and make sure the HICAS is zeroed before they start. Camber - between 0 and 0.5 degrees negative. There are standard rear camber adjusters on the inner upper control arm that allow a small amount of adjustment (around 0.25 degrees). Hope that helps cheers

Shock absorbers control the vertical movement of the wheels after the spring has been compressed (by a bump). What condition are the shocks in? You could try the old bounce test, push down on one side of the rear 4 or 5 times rapidly, and then release. It should retun to normal height without bouncing again. If it bounces its new shock absorber time. I would check the front as well, if the rear is stuffed, chances are the front is too. If the bounce test looks OK, then my next guess would be rear subframe bushes. Have a quick look around the 4 bushes, marked in the following picture with the green dots; What you are looking for is signs of leaking silicone, sticky goo and split or torn rubber. Hope that was of some help cheers

How was it applied? 1. Did you get a note a few weeks later in the mail? 2. Did the note have dates on it eg; licences suspended from XX/XX/XX to YY/YY/YY. They are not legally entitled to say "for 3 months" and not give a start and finish date. 3. Or did the Magistrate take it off you at the time of the guilty decision? 4. What dates did the Magistrates written ruling have on it? If #1, you write back and say that you are now a full licence holder and that they have made a mistake. They will take about a month to get back to you, in the interim the clock is ticking because they specified dates. At the same time you lodge an appeal at the local court house so that you can continue driving. By the time they sort out the paperwork, and get a court date allocated the 3 months will be long gone. If #3, you lodge an appeal with the District Court at the desk before you leave the courthouse. You can continue driving pending the appeal. You will be advised of a District Court date by mail about 2 weeks later, if the date is inside the licence suspension period then ask for another date. Then cancel the appeal after the suspension period is over but before the court date. You may get asked why you cancelled the appeal, the usual reason is "could not afford the legal fees". Either way the suspension period has passed and you have kept on driving. Sometimes they pick this up and try a date change on you. But if it was #3 they can't without going back to court to get the Magistrate to change his ruling. That's a lot of paperwork that public servants don't want to do, so it slips by. If #1 then you go through the process again and appeal on the grounds that it has been 3 years since you committed the offence and you have a clean driving record. Mostly it would be unduly harsh to punish you now for something that happened so long ago. Most Magistrates sympathise and wave the suspension. The 3 months or so of not driving is inconsequential. The REAL reason you are doing this is to avoid the permanent record that says that you have had your licence suspended. Otherwise it will cost you thousands of dollars in extra insurance for the rest of your life. So it is well worth a few minutes of appeal writing. cheers PS; the rule is to always plead not guilty at every possible opportunity. The whole system of fines arriving in the mail issued by computers relies on people mindlessly handing oevr the money. If just 5% of all people sent infringement notices pleaded not guilty, the system of revenue raising would fail.

Try the Gearbox Shop at Greenacre. cheers

Unfortunately you can't "get there slowly" for a large number of the items. Otherwise you will have the engine in and out countless times, which is expensive. These are the things that I would do the first time around; 1. Forged pistons, bore and hone 2. Forged rods with ARP rod bolts 3. O'ring the block to go with a double annealed copper head gasket 4. Balance ALL of the up & down and round & round parts carefully. 5. ARP head studs 6. ARP main bearing studs 7. Non genuine main bearings and big end bearings (I use ACL Race Series) 8. Port the cylinder head, match the manifolds, test on the flow bench 9. Polish and equalise the combustion chamber volumes 10. Determine the lift and timing of the camshafts so that you can do piston to valve clearances and any required cylinder head lobe relief at this time. For that sort of power your are looking at around 272 degree cams with at least 10.3 mm lift. This is also the time where you choose the valve springs and retainers if necessary. 11. Wide oil pump drive crank collar to go with an aftermarket high flow oil pump (Jun, HKS etc), preferably dry sump if you are doing any high G'force activities. 12. Oil flow control mods, limit what goes up and speed up the return to the sump. All RB's are crappy at this unless carefully modified, this is another advantage of dry sump. 13. Pick a clutch, at least twin plate for 2wd and triple plate for 4wd. Balance it along with #4 above 14. Sump mods, either for dry sump or wet sump with wings, one way doors and baffles. 15. All the bits necessary to turn a SOHC RB30 into a DOHC RB30, refer to the RB30DET thread for more details. 16. All of the myriad of little things that you normally do when building a high performance engine that would take me pages to list. That's enough from me, I am sure the others will add to the list cheers

If you don't already have it, start with a heat shield and a cold air feed for the POD. Unshielded PODs are a big power killer, especialy on hot days. cheers

The Magistrate/Judge can change fines if they are not prescribed, but almost all traffic offences are prescribed and agreed by parliament. The Magistrate can increase or decrease the fine within a range if that offence has a prescribed range. For example the fine might be min $500 and max $1500. If you get fined $500, appeal and lose he can increase it up to the $1500 max but he can't go over that. But he has to justify the increase based on the severity of the offence, appealing and loosing is not grounds for increasing a fine. If he gives that reason then you have grounds for an appeal and that means another chance at delaying. Most traffic offences have a single prescribed amount, it is only the really bad ones (drink driving, dangerous driving etc) that have ranges. The Government removed the discretion from Magistrates/Judges a long time ago because they wanted the extra revenue. There are two issues here, the first is the law and you are relying on that up to a point. But the BIG thing you are depending on is the slackness of the public service and the huge amount of fines processed daily. Due to the volume (caused mostly by speed cameras) infringement notice issuing and points counting is done by computer, it automatically issues the letters, untouched or seen by human hands. The law says that the points are not allowed to be counted until you are found guilty, the constitution guarantees that. The date of the offence is what is input into the computer, so it won't issue a licence cancellation if that date has expired. It won't cancel a Full licence unless the points are enough at that point in time. Anything else would require human intervention and that simply doesn't happen, unless it is one of those high profile offences. A couple of minor infringments won't even hit the radar. Once again if you do get your licence suspended retrospectively for something that happened when you where a P plater, then you appeal. Legally you can argue that they can't take your licence off you today for an offence that wouldn't have your licence revoked if that offence was actually committed today. Retrospectivity in law is heavily frowned upon. Don't get a solicitor involved unless you have the money to spend. Lodging apeals is easy and cheap, it's only when you need to win the case do you need a solicitor. If you are playing the time game, then it is pretty cheap to stall around for a year or so. cheers

The points don't accrue from the date of the conviction, they accrue from the date of the offense. So all you have to do is to stall the court result until the points have expired, 1 year, 2 years, how ever long it is in your state. Any points on contested offences/infringement notices don't appear on your records. That would be "guilty until proven innocent", which is unconstitutional in Australia where we have "innocent until proven guilty" rights. The length of time for points accumulation is from the actual dates of the offences. The RTA wanted to change it so they could decide whether they wanted to use the date of the offense for one infringement and the date of the court result for the other. They tried this on in the District Court and lost. They then tested it all the way to the Supreme Court in NSW, they lost there twice. Then they introduced Double Demerit Points holiday periods, and that had to be the date of the offence. That's why NSW went to 3 year points accumulation. That was the only way they could avoid the court delay problems. You need to find a legitimate reason for appealing (or pleading not guilty in the first place), at least one that COULD BE legitimate. It is pretty unusual to not find a hole somewhere in the process. Local Court Magistrates are pretty pushy and have a lot of discretion. But basically they have to follow the law, plus you can always appeal to the District Court, that costs $few more. The delay on that for non criminal items is always several months. An example.........I was an expert witness in a case against a laser detected speeding offence. The Police Officer made a very small mistake in writing down the serial number of the laser on one of the 6 pieces of paper that the prosecution has to provide. That case was stalled long enough (8 months) for the driver to get off his 3 year P plates. Hence he avoided a licence suspension, one that would have stayed on his record forever. As I said before, time is your best friend in this instance. cheers

Now I am confused; A 9" rim (229 mm) with 30 mm offset is 144 mm in and 85 mm out A 7" rim (178 mm) with 30 mm offset is 119 mm in and 59 mm out A 7" rim (178 mm) with 20 mm offset is 109 mm in and 69 mm out So a 7" rim with 30 mm offset is 25 mm further away from the shock than a 9" rim with a 30 mm offset. A 7" rim with a 20 mm offset is even further away, 35 mm in fact. It can't be the shock that they are hitting, unless the bottom spring seat is lower on the 260RS's than the S1 or S2 RSFours. The picture of Brad's R33GTR rear ended Stagea shows what happens when the spring seat is too low, it fouls the tyre. The other alternative problem is too tall a profile tyre, but that would also have serious speedo error issues as well. cheers

You lose your licence = you don't drive, it's that simple. My suggestion is to pick one of the infringement notices (I assume that there is more than one) and appeal. There must be something that you can appeal against. It will cost you about $26 to lodge an appeal at the courthouse. The usual time for this to make it to court is 3 months. Maybe one of the other infringement notices will have expired on your points count by then. If not, ask for an adjournment because you need to gather evidence, find a witness, whatever. Keep doing that until the points count has expired. When the time is right plead guilty, say you couldn't find the evidence you needed or the witness wouldn't come forward, whatever. All it will cost you is ~$60 in court costs, it doesn't matter how many times you stall. First job is to take the notice you were sent and send it back but don't fill in either option. Attach a letter that states you are appealing one of the infringements. That usually takes them a couple of months to sort out. A good number for stalling used to be 2 years and 1 month, that's why they changed the points tally to 3 years in NSW. Many cases were taking 2 years to get to court the first time and the points had expired by then. Time is your friend and public servants have no sense of urgency, so use it against them. cheers

Email sent regarding this problem, please let me know if you have not received it. cheers

The R33GTR wheels fit perfectly on the RSFour, standard studs and no spacers. I wonder what the difference is compared to the 260RS. cheers

It looks like it is on back the front to me. cheers

If you keep the restrictions down it will make 800 'ish bhp at 25 psi. Is that your power target? cheers

If you are contemplating a multiplate clutch, the common brands use their own flywheel, not the standard one. cheers

Be careful with the impedance, GTR injectors are low impedance (3-4 ohms) and RB25 injectors are high impedance (12-14 ohms). cheers

Well there you go, you learn something new every day, the 3 that I have seen all had R3GTR wheels on them. cheers

Email sent cheers

The only Stagea S1 with 17" rims standard I have seen is the 260RS. They utilise the standard R33GTR rims (what I have on mine). They are 17 X 9 X 30 offset with 245/45/17 tyres. I had mine complied with the 16" rims and then put the 17" on later. cheers

I read this a lot, and personaly I think it's a big mistake to use a wide drive flange oil pump on a narrow drive flange crank. This is made even worse by the higher oil pressure relief spring the N1 pump has, because it means more torque loading on the narrow drive flanges. With the crank driving on less than half of flange on the oil pump, the tendancy to crack the rotor is exacerbated. I see no reason to run an N1 oil pump anyway, they flow no more than a standard RB26 oil pump. All they do is relieve at a higher pressure. cheers

Front Caster - at least 5 degrees poitive, but more is better Camber - 1.0 to 1.5 negative Toe - zero Rear Camber - 0.5 to 1.0 negative Toe - 2mm in each side If you still have it, don't forget to have the HICAS ECU reset to zero. cheers

RB25 Neo top feed injector on the left RB25 side feed injector in the middle RB20/26 top feed injector on the right cheers

Skylines come standard with "coil overs", the coil spring goes around the shock. The term "coil over" is a bit too generic, like saying I need "black tyres". Do you want on car height adjustable "coil overs"? Or off car height adjustable "coil overs"? What about shock damping? Adjustable bump? Adjustable rebound? Both? Together or separate adjustment? In cabin adjustable? Do want to buy used $400 "coil overs" or new $10K "coil overs"? Or something in between? They are all "coil overs". So I need a bit more info before I can really be of much help. cheers

I would like an R32GTST one please, am I too late? cheers

Skylines come standard with "coil overs", the coil spring goes around the shock. So are you saying he should stay with the standard "coil overs"? Or buy aftermarket "coil overs"? He can't buy aftermarket non coil over suspension, because it wouldn't fit anyway. So he has to buy "coil overs" of some kind, he doesn't have a choice. Shoud be buy height adjustable "coil overs"? On car or off car height adjustable "coil overs"? What about shock damping? Adjustable bump? Adjustable rebound? Both? Together or separate adjustment? In cabin adjustable? Should he buy used $400 "coil overs" or new $10K "coil overs"? They are all "coil overs". Telling someone to buy "coil overs" is like saying buy "black tyres". It doesn't realy help. cheers