Sydneykid

It won't work you MUST have a vent, otherwise there is nowhere for the trapped boost (pressure) to escape. So the wastegate stays open until the solenoid opens. Put a vent in and try it. Your problems should have dissappeared. cheers

Without knowing the width and offset I don't see how anyone will buy them. cheers

Don't know much about GAB's for Skylines. I have replaced a few in Hondas though. Very harsh, big spring rates, twin tube shock design so small piston area etc. In summary, a fairly basic, low cost, Jap coil over. See how they feel for you, they will accept lower spring rates, that does improve the ride and handling a little. cheers

I want some extra DAYZ bits (side skirts) for mine this post is how I am going about it

Nope, turbos have the same mounting dimensions. cheers

Since you are only interested in look, and don't care about handling improvement or ride comfort, any of the brands you mentioned will do. cheers

I have never had them side by side to compare, but the bushes are exactly the same, so I suspect the arms are too. cheers

The best two pieces of advise on here; I would add, stay away from drilled disks, slotted are the go. Then spend the saved money on handling upgrades, some circuit specific driver training and the lap times will be faster. If you still want larger rotors, then UAS do an upgrade for around $800 complete (DBA 4000 series rotors, bolts and adaptors); The DBA5000 series (floating disk) upgrade to the above is around $500 extra. cheers

The yellow dots mark the camber adjustment points and the red dots the caster adjustment points. cheers

Doesn't the T04Z take the place in the range previously held by the 45? cheers

1. Yes, even if you unplug the SAFC and put it in your cupboard for a year. It's like an elephant, they never forget. 2. If it is tuned properly, no adverse effects. 3. Sorry for the previous abrupt reply, but workshops trying to put people off stuff that works and has worked for years and sold thousands of units worldwide really peeees me off. cheers

And the difference is? cheers

If you damage the rim (outer or inner or both) they can be replaced without replacing the centre. Good luck buying imported rims only though. cheers

For a road car, I would stick to the bush style links. Dust, dirt, mud, water etc exclusion are required on sphericals to prevent premature wear. Polyurethane bushes live long and usefull maintenance free lives. On a race car you might beneftit slightly from the increased precision, but not worth the hassle on a road car. cheers PS, put those damn stabilser bars on will ya!

GTRGeof has a good HICAS elimination kit for $150 with instructions, definitely worthwhile doing. All of the Whiteline parts are available on the Group Buy; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 The rear subframe alignment kit (pineapples) is a DIY job. It comes with instructions. The rear camber kit is not really DIY, you need a 10 tonne press to remove the old rubber/fixed bushes and install the new polyurethane/adjustable bushes. You could remove the rear arms and take them to a suspension shop and have them do the pressing and then refit the arms yourself. It is only 2 bolts per arm. After the HICASs is removed and the adjustable camber bushes are installed, it will need a wheel alignment. In the following picture the 4 subframe bush locations are marked with green dots and the camber bushes with yellow dots. Depending on how low the car is you may need one rear camber kit (which goes on the inner upper point of the arm) yellow dots. If it is very low you may need 2 kits, the 2nd set goes in the outer upper joint, red dots. Hope that helps cheers

You posted before I finished editing, so you maybe missed something, quick reread will confirm. cheees

1. Bullshit 2. No cheers

No two engines are ever the same, even engines with mostly the same spec can require totally different tuning It will take you hours to load my maps, you could leave before peak hour and get to the dyno in less time. You may make a mistake in loading them, just one load point is enough (and there are a thousand or so). They may run worse than the default, so you will have wasted your time. They may run MUCH better than the default, so the engine feels like it doesn't need a tune. So you drive it hard, because it feels sooo great and goes sooo hard. But it was a bit too lean or too advanced and you blow up the engine. All we are doing is trying to protect your investment. cheers

I don’t really want to get into EManage bashing, but I haven’t found anyone who has got one to work over a long period of time. They have always had some issues with RB ignition systems, the zener diode mod seems to at least allow then to run, whether it stands the test of time is yet to be proven. The instability in high temps has been cropping up lately, maybe it’s a phantom or a symptom of the recent hot weather, I don’t really know yet. All that aside, I still think (for what it does) it is grossly overpriced by the time you ad all the bits necessary to use its full functionality. cheers

Nope, just jack it up, undo the lock nuts/bolts and give the top a tap inwards (for more negative camber) with a plastic/rubber hammer. The naked eye is not always a good judge of camber. So on a flat surface (garage floor is ok), stick a spirit level at the bottom on the tyre, get it vertical (via the bubble) and measure (with a ruler) from the spirit level to the tyre. Go around and do the same on the other side. If the measurements are the same then the camber will be pretty close, beter than a guess anyway. You could work out how much camber that is with some high school pythagorus. cheers

I though that was only standard ECU's, aftermarket ECU's are made in Australia (Motec, Autronic etc) so I thought duty would apply to imports. cheers

Not necessary, plug the dyno fuel pressure gauge in when tuning it. cheers

The default maps will be good enough to drive it to the dyno. cheers

From a recent post......................................... Search all you like, there is no full ECU replacement for auto Skylines. The current situation, as I see it, is you have 4 choices; 1. Suffer harsh gearchanges and reduced gearbox life and use any ECU you like. They are all the same as far as the gearbox is concerned. None of them have the gearshift logic programming for cutting/retarding the ignition timing on gearchanges. Saying that Microtech or Link or Power FC or Haltech or any other ECU is better for autos is absolute crap, NONE of them have the programming. 2. Use piggy backs, SAFC, SITC, EManage (there is a claim that EManage now works with Skyline ignition, but it is early days yet) or Exede (still under development). They all retain the standard ECU and therefore its program for gearshift logic ignition retard. What's the limit as far as max power is concerned? I don't know, I haven't seen anyone reach 300 rwkw with piggy backs yet, there are a few around 250 rwkw though. 3. Change the gearbox to manual and use whatever ECU you like. 4. Change to a stronger auto, you will still have harsh changes and the life of the gearbox will be less (than it would with ECU programing for gearshift). Or upgrade the components in the standard gearbox, so they last a bit longer. Or use a manual shift controller, so you decide when the gearchanges are going to occur (you can take your foot off the throttle on the gearchange). This is not going to change as far as I can see (so don't search again tomorrow for a magic solution) because no one is going to spend the money developing the programming for an aftermarket ECU for Nissan autos. It would simply cost far too much and be unsaleable (no one would pay the price). This has been the case since 1989 so why would it change now? cheers PS; Yes, there are Power FC's for auto Toyotas but they have comletely different logic in their gearshift and ECU. This means no complex programming is required (like a Nissan).